I would’ve put a piece of tape over the hole and poke the wires through it. This minimizes air leakage from the inside of the wall. Which can give inaccurate temperatures to the thermostat.
Seems simple enough ! At the furnace side, I've seen other instructions that says in addition to moving green wire to "C" terminal, you need to install a short jumper wire between "G" terminal and "Y" terminal inside the furnace's control board ?
@@dertythegrower Not really, because when I paint a room I never paint around things like that to begin with. If that had indeed been my project/home it would already have been painted behind the old unit.
derty QWERTY Even if you get a different thermostat you still have to fix the wall first. Only if you put the old thermostat back then you don’t need to fix the wall, but since the homeowner already went into spending hundreds on that thermostat i guess chance is big that there is going to be a different thermostat.
I don't know about this cheap E model you used, but a couple of the normal 2nd gen ones that i am using for years now, are wired normally (all the cables at the correct place - including the fan) and work flawlessly. The battery was only used a couple of times we had a power failure.
Google just needs to make the Nest compensate and adjust the real room air temperature measurement against the cold-soak wall temperature. The cold wall still throws off the temperature measurement and causes unnecessary call-for-heat cycles. All they need is a thermal couple dongle that hangs in the wall cavity connected from their base-plate.
My question is this. If I set the temperature to something like 75 degrees, is the thermostat able to operate the heating furnace or the AC unit, whichever needs to be running to maintain my temperature setting without me tending the thermostat?
I’ve thought about doing mine this way but there’s already something attached to the C Wire terminal down at the furnace but no C wire behind my thermostat. Can I connect it anyway?
A trick I learned as a telecom tech was to cinch a LARGE cable tie onto the wire BEFORE it falls back into the wall because all it takes is that one/first time. Another tip is that many of these thermostats do not charge the batteries so beware that AAA size batteries don't last very long with consistent use. I change out the batteries every summer season in my condo and remove the batteries in my RV thermostat when not in use.
could have ran a newer line of cables with to support the added functions. depending on how the original wiring was setup that is. sadly it's not always a straight shot from the thermostat to the heating/cooling unit. but when fishing new wiring you can tape the newer one to the older one. so you can fish the new line in place of the old line when you pull out the older line. however it can be tricky for someone with little/no experience.
Unless you have an other home What they used to do to hold the line in place was wrap around a screw head. So in some cases you have to find a whole new way of fishing the line to the unit. But honey well sells a add a fifth wire kit. Where it is a splitter adapter that two of the wires split sending power to the thermostat and when the fan or heating or actually is called for.
Question. What happens to the G wire spot since isnt connected to the correct spot since it’s replaced the yellow wire in this sense. Since there is nothing on the G terminals, what’s the consequence?
I thought the very same thing. On my Cor 7 I think I jumped the compressor wire to the G terminal so every time my ac came on the fan would work? I may be wrong about that but am curious to how this Nest worked with nothing connected to G terminal of thermostat which I think is the Fan. Thanks.
I am amazed you still found something that was made to last more than 10 years, let alone over 20. The thing almost looks like you just installed it to do this video
Hmmm I can think of couple ways around C wire . Check inside the whole for metal conduit and ground 1 extra wire and use as C .Let's see how about add a wire ? Not actual wire but a device called add a wire or wireless wire. And lastly just pull a new wire , it's not hard.
Before the video even played, I was gonna comment that the best way to install thermostat with 4 wires is to pull a 5 wire cable and get with the times. Four wire/battery/hack is nothing but trouble.
Maybe the cable is stapled onto the studs in the wall. Don’t know if it is the case (i never lived in a wooden home) but it could be. I can imagine that a cable that is not in a pipe doesn’t snake as easy.
If I’m not switching the yellow to the Common slot would there be any reason I’d have to even touch the furnace? In other words can I change the thermostat without having to do anything to it? Thx.
@@seankoons2023 I had a technician come out and just hook it up for me because this small little problem it'll cost me a lot of money because one of the wires got got crossed down there at my circuit board for my furnace I blew out the breaker box on the side of my house so I'd have a technician come out and do it I learned my lesson on that one but all is good and everything is good now I wish I just want to bottle adapter to go to a five wire I want to save me a lot of time
Go to your furnace with a flashlight, pop the furnace door open, and look for a brown wire with 4 little wires in it with the same color as the wire at the thermostat. Trace them to the furnace board, loosen a screw that holds the green wire, then tight that green to the terminal with C label on it which is very next to that green G label. That's all you need to do.
got the unholy grail when researching my system RH red wire RC red wire W White wire Y White wire G Bare copper outer coating was stripped a ton looks green from the shreds i found in the wall with only a R W outside of the master bedroom. bought chepos for those since the older thermostats had minor mercury leaks the house is only nearing 18. though i gotta love that the phone lines are just cat5 cables.
So if the thermostat cannot control the fan, how does the furnace distribute the heated air throughout the house? Turning the fan on and off is just as much controlling the fan as varying the speed of the fan.
The only way to get even air is a zone system!!! No thermostat can control distribution of air. Secondly remember most smart thermostats are being controlled by your local electric company! Meaning during heatwave they can and will turn off your A/C !
I see you said if you have a four wire (which I think I might) and you swap the G wire for the C wire, what exactly are you giving up? Is it fan control? What does that mean? Do you mean Low, Med, High, for example? I have to imagine the blower still comes on, correct?
@@thejpkotor although if you keep the fan on when the AC is taking a break, it will blow the moisture around and you won't effectively dehumidify your home
My system only has 2 wires (red & white) connected to the existing thermostat. There is an antenna box controller connected to the system which, is believed to have been installed because the other wires aren't working, due them being damaged etc? My heat and AC currently work. If I install a Nest thermostat, could I continue to just connect only the red & white wires?
I recently did this switch from “G” to “C”. Have my best constant power. Unfortunately, doing that I have lost blower during AC function. The outside ac unit comes on. But the blower does not! Any ideas!?? Thanks!
kylek04 Do you have blower (fan) when a call for heat? Some control boards do this automatically without the G fan wire being energized from the thermostat. The correction for YOUR ac problem is to jumper the cooling and fan screw on the control board?
I love all the boomers commenting about how they don't like smart thermostats and think they're a waste. Y'all are just mad because you can't figure out how to work basic technology.
It's not uncommon for people who grew up with older technology to have a continued affinity for it. If you grew up with current technology, it stands to reason that it's going to feel "basic" to you because you learned how to use it early on. I just think it's a douche move to mock people who are resistant to change. All of the technology that is current now will one day be replaced with something more advanced, and I'm sure the people who grew up on what we have now will be just as resistant to what comes next.
I am A/C tech with over 20 years under my belt and you couldn't pay me to install that garbage at my house!! Remember thermostat has no idea how big is your system or size of your property. There is no magic here, if you want to save electricity then turn it off!
Look into the Honeywell Prestige 9000 thermostat-- you only need two wires in your wall and it's a million times better than a Nest. Mist HVAC guys dislike the Nest -- they can be very buggy and they can have problems.
IF Master the reason the Honeywell Prestige 9000 thermostat only needs 2 wires is that the only thing the 2 wires do is supply power to the wall unit and then it communicates wirelessly with the equipment interface module mounted to the actual piece of equipment - all the wiring is done right at the furnace or boiler.
Umm, and why in the hell would you need to do that for? When cooling is on, the board automatically turns the fan relay on. G is for when you need to turn on fan on its own without cooling or heating. if people aren't using the fan much and you can't run new wire, you can use the G wire as ground. Or just use one of those apparatuses that add a ground, just like ecobees come with. Please refrain from using idiotic recommendations if you don't know anything about HVAC.
tubatuba not all control boards bring fan on with y cooling relay That’s why the t stat sends power to control board on y and g. When calling for cooling. And tell me what happens if they have electric heat. What brings fan on.
I would like to install this in my home. Heating woks differently than on video. Basically i have only radiator heating, no air ducts. And am wondering is it possible with Nest to control my gas boiler and my air conditioner, witch is a separate unit. I have 3 wires from heating boiler to current thermostat. And if it possible to control my AC unit how many wires do i need?
depends what are the wires labeled\ what type of heating do you have IE forced hot air, base board heating etc R W is a 2 wire simple one if you have R W C your golden if its more complex labels a simple google of "thermostat signal" will give you complete understanding what each label is.
@@snintendog Hello Snintendog, the wires aren't labeled these are red, white and yellow. The white and yellow connect into the Mercury bulb. It is [I think] forced air as it is a heating unit mounted in a false ceiling with ducts running to each room (up high). I am not sure what R W and R W C mean. Let me try google. Thanks!
I believe he should have mentioned connecting a jumper from the Y to the G at the furnace. The Y being the compressor, so that every time the compressor is on, so is the fan.
Actually its smart. Cause most smart thermostats need 5 wires.. as he stated you need a common for the thermostat. You really dont need to control the fan at the thermostat as it is controlled st the board as well. But the only other fixes is running 5 or 6 wire as it's only smart to run an additional wire as a backup or for future. But it some homes that really hard to do.. or the have a add a fifth wire where it's a module. That uses the green wire as a common until you call for fan on or off.
Since these are wireless anyway I can't understand why they don't just have receiver units that connect up to the AC unit instead of using the wall wiring. You only need two wires for power which all thermostats would have at least three then you got always on power but the actual control functions could just work off a remote unit.
These are cool but I'll argue all day that these are no more energy efficient than the one he replaced. They are simply smart, meaning that they connect to a network and can be remotely controlled; that is all.
Uh, depends really.. some save money by knowing if you are inside the home by using sensors in the home to detect if ac usage would even be used by a family or pet.
@Xftbllplyr You guys forgot the most important part of a smart thermostat. It allows a foreign Chinese communist operative, the government or some other nefarious group to track your energy usage so that they can shut down your power if you, in their opinion, are using too much. Anything connected to the net is hackable, and is trackable. That's the primary purpose of IOT (internet of things).
@@dertythegrower it is always more energy efficient to maintain a temperature in a room/house. Heat energy is relative and everything that has mass, holds heat. Most people think it's easy to change temp in a room or that you're saving energy by shutting off the unit until you're home from work. So, when you change temp, everything in the room needs to change temp, not just the air; everything, furniture, walls, floor, etc. I'll say it again, it's more energy efficient to maintain temp than to change it throughout the day.
I'd like to change my 20 year old on the first floor, however it is only used for heating and I only have 2 wires, a white and a red. Any tips?? This furnace is just about 20 years old also and has no common wire/terminal and I cannot run another wire to the basement, would be very inconvenient not to say impossible due to the house layout. Can I still use a smart t-stat?
Everyone older, you in fact save money with a good smartmeter.. it doesnt run the power to units if you are not home, so that saves money. Your normal unit runs off temp, aka stupidly running meter when you are not home,wasting billions of dollars in power every year globally. Fact🤷♂️
G doesn't provide 24v so adding a jumper to C would not work. C provides the 24v power, which is why you not only switch the G wire to C at the thermostat but also at the furnace control board.
This is the comment I left on this video: Oh yeah, while in the midst of a huge power grab by the globalists, what better way to introduce them to your home?! Nest is owned by google and I was their 3rd Chicago installation technician that was taking care of the service problems Nest clients had. Mostly the Nest thermostats needed to be grounded to the furnace or boiler. Nest would reimburse the client even up to $360 for me to run a ground wire so their nest was operational. The nest would cost $250 everywhere. Now why would google would go negative you would ask. I would guess to the data they were extracting out of the nest. Stay away from these spyware. There's nothing smart about these thermostats they're anything but smart. The fool is you that is falling for the surveillance, willfully. But what do I know... you probable have that nice Alexa to go with it. It's sad as these apparatuses would be a match made in heaven for the secret police in the communist country I lived in before we immigrated here. Wake up
As a novice, this was a total waste of time. You showed 90% of the job, did another important 10% off camera and just said "I switch these things" but didn't show the work. The whole point of RU-vid is for visual learners. You failed miserably.
Most utility companies offer rebates which reduce the cost, sometimes to zero depending on rebates and device. Couple that with the energy savings they can offer, and you will probably save money in the long run.
Ck87JF Seriously, never fall for the “get x and get y for free” marketing tricks. Of course the price of that free thing is coming out of your pocket via x.
Why would anybody pay that much for a thermostat that will allow google to track you and all the green deal a holes. The world is going crazy with all these new ideas if it's not broke don't fix it. Duh Huh. I will stick with my Honeywell
@@bfsgman I not worried by any means just stating the facts. Google and the govt. Is tracking us through all these new gadgets. But if that's what you or anyone else wants then by all means knock yourself out.
We all agree to certain colors meaning certain things for a reason. It's like when there's a single romex to a switch, the white wire gets wrapped in tape as a warning to the next one in there it's a hot wire. I have 3 Nest thermostats and they all included 2 sheets of wire labels in the box. You should have used them on the now "C" wire on both ends or at very least put some blue tape on the wire so the next person that does work doesn't cremate something when following correct coloring. I know it's low voltage and not going to cause a fire but it's still a d*ck move leaving it like that.
Well most likely a technician would be the next guy.. and being an hvac installer. We have seen them use different color wiring without labeling it. But cause we have seen it and based of material on the truck we use different wires.. like besides red and white are constants.. blue and yellow are used for cooling green for fan or common. Brown and orange as well.
