I was watching another youtuber mixing resin, he recommended you put your scale in a ziplock bag to keep any resin from getting on it. Thought it was a handy tip.
I wish there had been a more detailed view of how you used those items to add airholes and prevent bubbles. For a visual learner just describing it doesn't really help at all.
It's goosebumps, when you see your favorite creator on other random creator channels. Now I am going to subscribed this channel, because of my favorite creator.now I have trust on this creator also....
One quick note to to pay attention to here! Oil based clays that contain sulfur often times can cause curing inhibition in your silicone molds, especially platinum cure silicone! For the best results check to see if the clay is "non-sulfurated" or NSP such as a chavant. Latex gloves can cause issues too since sulfur is a component that can leave residue, so nitrile ones are preferred. Always check and research your materials, and if you can do little tests to see how your materials will react with each other! It might just save you some money and tears!
@@unkownsenpai621 A good clay to use would be NSP clay by Chavant. Its a non-sulpherated plastaline (that's the NSP part) modelling clay that should work well with your silicone.
I would humbly suggest setting trying to set up a 'sprue' in the same way they do metal casting.. use a cylinder next to the interior volume of the mould with a runners and gates that lead into the lowest sections of the interior volume. Obviously you need vents on any parts of the interior volume with interior 'ceilings' but what it means is that when you pour resin into the sprue, it begins to fill the interior volume from the bottom up, displacing the air as it goes! Careful considering about which orientation of the object inside the mould that will fill the easiest /require the least number of vents etc. Do a google image search for 'sprue metal casting' and you'll see what I mean. Thanks again for the awesome videos, I'm inspired now to have a go at this myself! :D
One way to get a idea on how much silicone you would need for the first half, is fill the container with water and get a gram measurement for your silicone (and test for leaks). For the back half, you could also do a water displacement for the clay you pull out, adding an additional 5-10% grams for safety.
Instead of going with the density you should go with the volume. Using metric is really easy, just misure how many cubic centimeters do you need and each cm³ is equal to a milliliter and you can simply pour the right amount of silicone
Wouldn't it make sense to place the pouring spout on the bottom of the feet? Is is a smooth surface, so the spout would be very easy to remove and vents could still be placed in the mold. That way you shouldn't have to deal with such a big resin surface rising inside the mold. I imagine that could be benefitial.
That's possible, but Phil has treads, so each tread would need a vent or pouring spout to make it work, otherwise yes, he could have been molded with his feet as the pouring spout.
Oh, I see; yeah fair point, I thought he had flat soles ^^ Still, the method used seems not ideal to me, there has to be some room for improvement. >.>
I would have liked to see the spurs you mounted, how you built the vent hole and located it, the final results, and the solution to the venting problem. You discussed all of this, but never came to any conclusions. Too much detail was skipped.
Couldn't you have saved the clay step by simply attaching Phil by his feet to the mold box? Then when you remove the mold box, the bottom of his feet become the pour opening?
1. Because there is a gap between his legs 2. Because Phil's boot soles have treads 3. Because Phil's body has more girth than his feet. However, if it wasn't for 1 and 2 _and_ if the parting line did not matter so much then you could use a one-part mould and _cut_ two sides of the mould half-way down to get the model (and casts) out. But then you would not have any "keys" for getting the halves aligned.
Note: some resins will heat up to the point of melting your 3D printed mold if you cast too much at once. You may need to poor in X amount every Y hours based on the resin's instructions.
I’ve bought silicon molds to build sugar sculptures. I want to learn how to build my own molds so i can put my own twist to my work. Do you think pouring hot sugar into a 2 part mold will turn out ok?
For the oil based clay , did you use soft or hard? And also, the white material you used to make the box, what was it? It seems like it's smooth like vinyl or something.
Won't you just cut out 95% of the manual work if you 3D print the two parts negative mold to start with? You only have to spray release agent, fill it with resin and you are done. Did I missed something?
It would depend on what you are making a mold of. The silicon is flexible and can stretch which makes it easier to remove models when they have thin delicate features like an arm holding out an object. I suppose you could try printing something like polyflex but it might not have the detail resolution you want.
You are right Fern. You can also 3D print a 3 -or more- parts mold (instead of a regular two part mold). This will make the 3D design a little more complicated, but I guess when you get use to this technique, you will save a lot of time.
I can print a 20cm cube in Ninjaflex at 0.1mm resolution with my cheap "Anet A6". However, it can't do sharp carving details and subtile surface texture like silicone. All techniques as advantages and limitations.
Yes, but just spraying mold release isn't your only problem. Undercuts, sealing the mold at the split line to prevent leaks, and much more need to be considered. You can learn more about 3D Printed molds here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KweiHPE4Ftg.html
Thank you very much, this was the video that I looking for! I'll agree, there is more work than only "quick spray" of release agent. I'm still curious to see people doing it with stuff we can find everywhere (silicone caulking, car epoxy resin, wax, etc). When I'll have time, I'll do it "red neck" way and let you know!
You could, but there's no guarantee that both halves of the model line back up when you put them together. This way you have one mold for one object and it won't need any sanding (if you did all the sanding before you molded the object).
The parting line does not necessarily have to be in a plane. You would want it where it is easy to clean up afterwards, avoiding highly detailed areas.
You will likely not get a good seal around the parting plane without a gasket of some sort. You will then leak material and/or pull bubbles from the edges. People use 3D printed molds in certain situations, but silicone molds have been used for several decades in medium run production for their many benefits. You can learn more here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KweiHPE4Ftg.html
i always thought to draw a block cut the 3d model out of it then cut the block in half and print 2 halves off the mold including spouts the just fit mold halves together then fill will whatever
i messed up on something. if i make a video, could you tell me if something can be fixed or how to start over, and what to do with a useless mold half?
I keep lacquer thinner on hand for cleaning my airbrush, so it'd be nice to have one solvent for many uses. I guess I could use mineral spirits for cleaning my airbrush, though. Hmm...
Couldn't you just like... Vaseline him up, Set him feet first and fill the box then cut it off and remove it? Or if you want to make it in two parts stick something to hold it from one side and lower it halfway in then do the other half?
Yeah it's funny he didn't mention that in the first half. Just a slight detail.. nothing to worry about. You don't actually need a vacuum chamber to do this btw. But it's important to keep the bubbles to a minimum so that they don't add surface flaws to your mold. It's a recommended practice to degas the silicon in a vacuum chamber before pouring. But if you mix slowly, avoid incorporating air into the mixture in the first place and pour a thin solid stream from high up (which elongates and pops air bubbles in the process) then you should be fine.
i always thought to draw a block cut the 3d model out of it then cut the block in half and print 2 halves off the mold including spouts the just fit mold halves together then fill will whatever
I probably have no idea what I'm talking about but it seems like it might just be easier to mix the silicon and partly submerge the model and let cure, instead of using the clay. The clay looked like a pain in the bum.
You wouldn't have to split it open. Just partially fill the box and submerge half of the object. I guess if it's too heavy it might sink, but I don't think you'd have that issue with PLA or other plastics because the silicon should be dense enough to support its weight. Then after its cured pour the 2nd half like he showed and you should be able to pull it apart. For the keys you could just pop a couple small objects in and remove them before pouring the 2nd half. IDK works in my head but I've never tried it so could be a mistake.
It's possible and is done sometimes, but you end up with a slightly raised edge where the silicone meets the part due to surface tension (it forms a meniscus). For only making a few parts, this works OK and you get decent seam lines, but over time this delicate edge wears and tears and the seam line on the part gets worse. Using clay allows you to get a sharp 90 degree mating edge. Also, floating the part in the silicone increases the chance of trapping large air pockets under the part if the geometry is tricky.
I really appreciate the video, but when trying to follow you, the way you explain things, actually makes the steps your showing WAY More difficult to follow.
I’m looking for someone to do this for me! I need 2 two piece molds made out of a food grade silicone or some type of plastic. This is for a product I’m trying to bring to market
"How To Use 3D Printing to Make a Two-Part Silicone Mold" while its not exactly the wording you used the point still stands lool it would be good with an A in between use and 3D
