I use the Sigma 150-600 Sport, so I leave it ever so slightly back heavy at 150 so that when I zoom in on my subject it doesn't suddenly become front heavy. This is the most sensible, grounded, video I've seen on using a ,long lens.
Here's my 5 Tips on using a long lens, specifically for wildlife photography. To learn more techniques on how to use a big lens effectively, check out this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-koDnT_3hOyE.html
Really good points in here. I recent bought a Fuji 150-600 lens for use on an XT4 and have been getting some very good shots but are having trouble with stability even on a tripod. At 600mm the aperture is f8 but even at some distance I have been surprised at how shallow the depth of field is and until I was able to stabilise the lens focusing was a problem. I will certainly be trying all your hints in this video.
That really is a helpful video for shooting with long lenses.I find even on a tripod I need to be 1\200-300 or more to get sharp shots on the 500 but on the 400mm I could go much much lower and still get them sharp.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Thanks Paul ,i sometimes find when the shutter speed is low on tripod that turning on IS seems to help which is odd.My Gimbel Gh700 movo seems to have quite a bit of movment in the base.
I have fille my beanbag with polysyrene spheres. The stuff used in Sacco chairs. It is stable and light. I also use the car window with a folded towel on top. Cloth and beanbag can reduce shake. For the ground pne can use a plastic dinner plate or something from agarden centre with a cheap pillow or bean bag on top. Use Duct tape where nessesary. The tripod can be used as a monopod. That can speed up the action.
I've never seen another wildlife photographer doing that but instead of a tripod I use a monopod with my 600 mm f/4, it takes much of the weight of the lens and I can move far more easily than with a tripod especially if I am in the forest or bushes. As for low level shot I use a ground pod, again it gives me enough flexibility to move my camera easily
Ni Nelson. If the monopod works you that's great. It's actually a really good option, especially with so many cameras being so good on noise so you can up the shutter speed more if you need it. And, yes they are certainly much less restrictive. I have used a plate myself but only on hide shelves - is the ground pod a flat design?
Hi Paul. I own the same lens, the 500mm f4. I managed to get a second hand Wimberly mk2 gimbal. Last step is tripod upgrade. I use a Manfrotto 190x pro, at this time. I noted you use a tripod with no centre column. Any advise with this would be great please. What is your tripod please? Twist or flick leg clamps? Is carbon really best? What are the feet on your tripod please? Difference between a £400 tripod, as opposed to a £600 tripod? Thank you in advance. Keith.
Hi Keith. My tripod is an Induro CT404. Personally I would recommend it. I don't want a centre column because on occasion I will put it flat on the ground. It's a really good twist action on the legs. I think carbon fibre is best as it's lighter but also I believe it carries less vibration through than a metal one. I doubt a huge difference in quality with the pricier tripods. Also think if it helps to be more compact - I liked the Induro because it's legs are in 4 sections rather than 3 which makes it more compatible for travelling.
Agreed. Paul is the most sensible, grounded wildlife, long lens photographer. I like the bean bag on the tripod without a head, Idea. Paul, when you were on your stomach, how did the pictures of blades of grass come out? :-)
Hey Paul, great video! I noticed you are using a Movo Gimbal. May I ask the specific model you have, and what your experience with it thus far? Thanks.
It's a Movo GH700. Yes, it is good - I think it does the job but it is not as smooth or stable as the expensive brands. I've also got a manfrotto fluid head now too.
Hi Paul , Enjoying your videos, noticed the arca swiss foot on your 500mm Lens I have the same Lens and Camera wondered if you could let me know where you got your foot from and what make it is . Many Thanks
Hi Chris. Thanks very much. To be honest I'm not sure what make - it doesn't have a brand name on it. But I know I bought it from Wex -and it was about £100. Hop that helps. Have to say, I'm really glad I went for this option - much simpler than attaching another plate to the lens foot - and it saves a bit on weight too!
Hi Jai. Thanks for watching the video. The Movo head - what I would say is that it good enough for my needs. It provides good stability and I think the overall movement is very good indeed. However, compared to one of the more expensive brands it is not quite as stable. Also I doubt it will last as long. All in all for the cost it is a very good buy in my opinion. No complaints from me so far. I've had it about a year.
Hi Bruce. Thanks for the comment. I have found some beanbags through ebay. Here in the UK I have used this company which specialises in these types of products. www.wildlifewatchingsupplies.co.uk/ Cheers.
Hi Paul Thanks for the information on Lens foot . Hope you don’t mind I have a question on your technique for 500mm Lens when mounted on gimbal head or using bean bag , do you have IS switched on . Many Thanks
No worries. Personally I always switch off when on gimbal head or beanbag. I believe it's better to do this - that said, if I was using the gimbal and the shutter speed was slow, I'd consider switching on. Since getting my 500mm lens the IS has been switched off about 90% of the time! With newer models though, apparently the lens recognises if it's on a tripod so you can keep IS on - but I haven't experience of those lenses.
Oh the times I have toiled over one of those heads! Great for birds and mammals, but how do you go one when you're out and you decide to shoot macro, or a landscape, which I do a lot of...This is the bit that puts me off them! I find the big ball and socket a great all rounder but it is a bit wobbly when coupled with the 500mm.
Exactly my though Simon! That's one of my problems - I shoot such a range of stuff. So I usually go out specifically for wildlife, or for landscapes and macro.
Hi David! It'a an Induro. I'll have to check the model. It has 4 leg sections and is carbon fibre. Really sturdy and lightweight. Bit cheaper than some well known makes too
Thanks Graeme. I use a cheaper option to the very expensive gimbal heads. This is a MOVO. I have tested a Wimberley and there is a difference in better stability for sure. But my head does the job for now.!
Thankyou i had been advised not to do so because it could damage the lens mount but i like to have the camera ready and dont like the idea of keep putting it on and off.Thanks for your help
ps i have just started using a 500 f4 is mark 1 since using a 400 f5.6 god it seems massive hope i get use to it ,i was happy with the 400 but i am told this is a better lens but it seems so heavy
Adrian. It is massive... it is heavy! I would only use this when you are set up for a while, it's not a walk about lens for sure. It is faster, it is sharper, it gives beautiful backgrounds but down side is the weight. New one is lighter but obviously a big expense.
Hi Louise. I've been asked a few times about this so I might do a video review. Basically, it's very good value for the money in my opinion. Having tried one of the expensive brands I can tell you it isn't as sturdy, but for my use I find it good enough. I find it very smooth which is important to me. It isn't carbon fibre but weight is reasonable. Mine was about £100.
After this mornings photography I have come to the conclusion that I need a faster 400 e.g 2.8 or a 500/600 f4.shooting at 5.6 is so limiting and when I use the 1.4 tc f8 is ridiculous.
It is limiting. With the extended is really tough. I’ve actually got razor sharp images in good light, but in poor light it’s very different. I held a canon 500mm Mark II yesterday, was quite reasonable for weight I thought... although I didn’t hold it for long.
The more expensive gimbal heads are no more stable than say the bieke gimbal head. But the movement is more fluid with the expensive gimbal because they are ball bearing designed. I find the least expensive gimbals stiffer action easier to work with my (1999)?canon 600mm f4 i.s.lens And still pan and tilt while following birds in flight.
Hi Forster. That's very good information there - I know other people who prefer the 'stiffer' action, personally I prefer the more fluid movement. I'm not sure I'd agree about the stability - I tried an expensive gimbal and it did feel more stable than my Movo to me.
Hi Paul, your camera is actually not properly balanced on that gimbal. A properly balanced camera should stay in place in any orientation whenever you move it, and not bounce back to being level.
@Mistymirror Curtis I think you're wrong here, Wintereater does explain what a camera and long lens does when properly balanced. The combination stays in place whether pointed up or down it stays there and doesn't go back in the leveled position. That's a perfectly balanced set-up, so I totally agree with Wintereater here.
@@pimnauta3840 Thanks Pim. I should elaborate and say that Paul needs to adjust the vertical slider so that the center of mass is aligned with the pitch axis of the gimbal, along with adjusting the forward/back slider as Paul did. But, given that he's used other gimbals in the past, I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and say that maybe this is just his preference?
Bloody hell....your lying down with a sand bag. Very stable I will grant you. But Jesus how much does that camera cost? And it's got no flip up or out screen for you to see!!! ? Typical canon guess you needed to upgrade to the next model for that. Sell the house and car and get divorced! Lol They really take the piss canon for the money they charge, cameras at 500€ got that now....ridiculous.
