These little units do have one major problem in where you place the master and remote unit can have you confused on a finding a network cable. Always place the master unit on the outside cable in a house ( NVR installation) and use the remote section on the inside of the house to find a wire. This is because the master unit will light up if a cable that is connected to an active source like a TV is plugged into the master unit, making you believe you have the right cable.
@@apster07 The Master unit is hooked up and started then the one you take with you is the smaller remote unit locally. If you hook up the remote unit then walk around with the master unit to find the other end of the cable you will get a false positive as any live wire will bounce back to the master unit thus giving you the wrong cable!!! . Example you have cables with heads inside the house and there is cable with no head on the outside for a camera and the cables are not labelled, so you put a head on the outside cable and hook up the master unit to it and start the tester, then you take the remote unit ( small unit ) and take it inside the house now you try out all the cable ethernet heads on that small unit. Most people don't know but the master actually is the remote UNIT that is the one you hook up at the end of the run and you take the smaller unit with you to find the other end of the wires. Try this hook up an ethernet cable to your laptop and then to the master unit, now start the tester....You will see that the led lights will go through the test and all is okay, now imagine there are 2 cables now and you did not know that one cable was hooked up to a live source ( the laptop) and you hooked up the remote unit to the other cable end ( not hooked to the laptop, but your Master unit is hooked up to the ethernet cable which is hooked up the laptop if that laptop is hidden in a closet now you think the Master and Remote unit gave you the right wire thus leading you to then pull your hair out trying to figure out why the tester tells you the wire is okay yet no connection. The Master unit is only doing an OHM signal test it is not actually slaved to the Remote unit with it's own signal so you must be careful to always keep the Master unit at the end of the line where you started not where you are heading, good luck. The way I found this out was the Camera I was installing had no connection yet the cable tester said all was okay. So then I made sure all the cables inside the house were unplugged and cut the head of the cable and did a multimeter OHM loopback test on 2 wires ( use some alligator clips to hook them together) from the inside ethernet cable and then went outside cut the head of the cable and did the same thing then pulled out the multimeter and now I realized I had the wrong cable all this time!!!. So then I used the Multimeter to actually find the right cable, 10 minutes later after putting the heads on I decided this can't be right and hooked up the inside cable to a small switch, went outside and hooked up the master tester unit and it verified the cable was correct without having the remote unit attached WTF now I knew I was fooled.
5 years ago exactly how many years ago i bought this tester and today I use it for the first time, you can treat the ethernet ports in your house with 2 extra cables as 1 long cable assuming the 2 extra ones work correctly too
Is there a way to fix a potentially dead cable? In my main source, it cycles through all the number lights fine, but on the remote, it skips light number 2. Thanks and great video!
Just tested cat 7 with Jack at 2 ends & pasted test with same device. But , when I used it to connect my PC with router, then one direction is ok. but when I switched jacks of cable to plug in PC & router , then it doesn’t work. Do you know why? If anybody know, please share your solution & reasons with me . Thanks
This is a great video. I was wondering can this device be used to test out Ethernet wall connections to see if they are live? My house was wired for Ethernet but the previous homeowner cut the cables to their router and now I have no way to fix the cables. Any suggestions?
Hello, checking manufacturer as well but I am curious If I have a cable where they all pins light up, but specifically pin 5 lights up but not as bright as the others
Hello, I have a tester similar to this. My problem is that when I connect the cable to both units the numbers light up in the correct way, the cable is fine but the number 4 stays on all of the time on both units. Any ideas what may be causing this ??
Thanks I have this but they’re not realtime in sync is it ok? I was on other side of wall and master green light skipping a number same as remote skipping numbers but its hard to say they’re in sync seems not.. is that normal? Other room skipping like 3 numbers, while other skips 1
What about if the pattern skip follows the tester? I have a long run in my house that has been reterminated twice and based on the pattern it looks like pins 3 and 5 are swapped, but if I switch the the testers it follows the tester not the connector. I get data across it but only negotiates at 10Mbit.
Hello i have a question. I bought a 100 meter cable and tested it with my lan cable tester The reading shows 1st run 1 3 5 7 2nd run 2 4 6 8 Repeatedly... Is it a problem??
It stands for ground. Some cables have a ground thread, and if that thread is left long enough to touch a metal RJ45 connector, on both ends, then it is grounded.
Can we used virtual software to resarrange any order after connect then assigned or reassigned on spot may be better on noncontact diagnosed foundation
Respected Sir in optical fiber cable otdr is used to check the distance,fault location and pressure point, but in utp cat6 which device used for testing distance, fault location etc please inform me
Hi there I hope all is well. I am NOT making my own ethernet cables. Can I use this device to simply test if a purchased ethernet cable has gone bad? I'm so tired of purchasing ethernet cables because I have to assume they've gone bad. Thanks
Yes. All you need is both of the ends on the ethernet cable. It's the same procedure as building one. Plug the cable in and as long as both the cables sync in color in 1-8 then you should have a perfectly working cable.
I have the same tester. Already wasted quite some connectors, can't get the patching right it seems. I have one cable and used this tester. As long as I keep the cables straight in the rester, all lights turn on sequentially from 1 to 8 (but the G doesn't turn on, although it is a cat6a cable with shielded cat6a connectors). But if the cables bend a little, some lights don't turn. I suppose the cable hasn't been patched correctly then?
I have same tester.... All 8 light green in order together.....BUT the red light lights up on the one holding battery when it cycles again .... The cable is not working , what does the red light mean ?
tested my cable same signal from both side every seems fine but i dont recieve interenet true the cable still nothing work tried the router direct in a computer but nothing anyone have an idea
It means pins 4 and 5 are not working. Unfortunately it doesn’t tell you which end of the cable is bad. It’s kind of a guess. The cable won’t work unless all lights turn on on both ends of the device.
Ethernet cables have 8 conductors inside and 4 are necessary for 100 Mbit communication. 8 are used for gigabit. Your cable might be broken on pin 8 but since that pin is not required for 100 Mbit communication, everything will work fine (but only at 100 Mbit speeds). The G doesn't light up on my tester either, even though I am testing a FTP cable here. Not sure if it's my unit or if they are all the same (non-working). The guy in the video didn't test that, unfortunately (he only tested a regular UTP cable).
Nice, simple video. On a cable, my tester lit up 1-8, the remote was: 1,2,5,4,3,6,7,8. I switched the tester & remote, got the same signal on the remote. Any ideas?
I used exactly this tester in order to verify a cable that is connected from one side to the patch panel and the other to a rj45 fruit. The tester shows that it is ok but when i connect to the switch with a comouter seems it is a dead link...computer ethernet is working and also the port on the switch is working :) either is faulty this tester or what else could it be?
Maybe you have a crossover cable instead of a straight through cable. Both would show as being ok when using the tester. www.cables-solutions.com/difference-between-straight-through-and-crossover-cable.html
hi, any idea how it is possible that with one cable I only get ~90 mbit max speed (on LAN) even though the cable tester returns positive test results (1-8 light up simultaneously)? With another cable I do get 1000 mbit (which also tests positively on both sides 1-8)).
@@baleriontheblackdread4491 thx it eventually turned out that the connector was not pushed in deep enough, so there was a bit too much resistance. The computer interface is more sensitive to higher resistance so it assumed only 2 twisted pairs instead of 4, thus 100 mbit
What if one end of the cable is in the living room, but the other is in the basement? Should I connect a long enough cable so both tester units could be seen? Or maybe someone can shout if light is jumping erraticaly?
In order for this to work you need a complete loop. If you’re testing a wall port, then you’d need to use the remote side and plug in a cable where the one in the wall terminates.
This is just a continuity tester. How do you test the cable for speed? You can have great continuity on a 1000 feet cable but you’re not going to get 1000 Mbps.
Mine goes 1,2,3.... then when the main side hits 4... the other side hits 6... then they both hit 5... then the main hits 6... and the small one hits 4.. then they both finish 7, and 8 All are green-list on the tester, however, incredibly, I tried to redo this and ended up repeating the same mistake because I stupidly followed the pattern for the connector I cut off... (which had the same error) the cables are naturally set up to go in this way except the whites have to over lap... and for some reason two of the whites cause this... 4 and 6. Yet... if you look at both ends of each connector (the original one that came made) vs the one I made... Blue and green are swapped on mine. I'm like... wait .. what? Blue and green are #'s 3 and 5 respectively ... both showed green on the tester.
I've had one skip on both the master and the remote side. 6 kept being skipped. Terminated both sides of the cable run again, testing after each side, with the same skipped result. *When a number is skipped it means it is not terminated properly (open). In my case, I used a different tester and it tested good on both ends without issue.
That tester is a pile of junk I tested a line several time and it says it’s good but I replaced the line anyway because I checked everything else and the line was bad I also tested a know good line and it said it was bad Garbage
Hi, I know this video was updated a while ago, but I have an issue with a cable that's been installed in my walls. When I test it with both the master and the remote, the numbers light up in the correct order, no sign of any issue. But when I only plug the master without plugging anything on the other side (not even the remote), both lights 1 and 2 light up in sequence. When I do the same thing with a spare cable I have, no light at all except for the power light. Could it be electrical interference in the wall that causes this? I have issues with this cable too...