Love your videos. Forget the haters. The majority of us gearheadds appreciate the information and tips. It is because of guy's like you that take the time to put out these videos that gives us weekend warriors the opportunity to learn. 👍🇺🇸
clecos are an interesting tool. the aircraft industry has been using millions of them over the years, it is amazing that they never really caught on in the body repair business
This fellow is trying to do a good job. Here's a few things to think about : #1 Don't put a patch in the middle of a large panel because the welds will eventually show through the body filler(welds create a hard line that won't vibrate like the thinner steel on either side of it . This will cause an effect similar to the fluidity of a wave hitting the immovable shoreline). Also, any tiny fissure or thin spot because of grinding will precipitate a failure. #2 If you have no choice about the repair, make sure you butt weld the patch in ...and no square corners. #3 Try to localize the join within a stiff area or close to a character line to minimize the wave action described earlier. In this case it would be best to put the join right in the flare part of the patch...but in this case the rust was more extensive. #3 Clecos hold the panel...but they cause another problem...a hole to be welded up. More welding causes more warping...more warping causes more filler...more filler increases the chance that it will crack...or lift on either side of the weld. It's better to do a really accurate cut out...which is where the dykem came in on this job, so that the patch panel fits with no more than 1/2 millimetre gap....just position it with one hand...spot weld it at one end with the other. #4 When it comes to cutting spot welds...those cutters will do the job...but then they leave a hole right through the understructure where moisture can easily penetrate. The best thing to do is get a die grinder with a carbide tip...and grind those spot welds down so they are 9/10ths gone...then use a flat blade screw driver like a chisel to bust what's left and cause them to crack and separate . This causes the least distortion to the understructure and it eliminates a hole through to the back of the understructure. I hope this helps.
I watched the video, it was very excellent, and I thank you for the clarification and advice. I will buy this machine and its accessories. I am an amateur and I think it requires me as an amateur and a beginner in small businesses. Greetings to you and I wish you success. Abdullah from Kuwait
Awesome video, man! I need to perform this exact metal replacement on the rear arches of my '64 dart (same one in my profile pic). this was clear and RIGHT TO THE POINT without bad music or long-winded intro. Cheers! Don
Nice work. Excellent demo on work and tools. Having the vehicle at proper work height will save your joints, especially your knees. I hope others will follow your lead. Again, nice job and thank you for Sharing.
I bought some clecos about 20+ years ago when I was into car body work alot. Never got to use them once. Much like alot of tools in my garage. Now that you showed me the clamps I have not seen makes me wanna buy a dozen of those.
Your a quarter inch drive 3/16 long socket in your drill bit and let the drill stick out about a quarter inch then when it goes thru the steel and into the back piece of steel the bit won't get hung up and break if it hits the inside peice,,you probably already know this tho,,,,nice work k again my man.
I liked your video, saw another where the guy cut the panel out and left the cleco areas alone as tabs, would work great in your situation whereas you could tack the top in place, and move out to cut tabs off. Nice video enjoyed watching it
Yes I,worked as a tool room assistant issuing out tools to,Aircraft Mechanics and we had a huge inventory of Clecos and pliers. Then the Cherry Max rivets as well. They also make screw down type Clecos.
good shit. I've found the best way to store clecos is by taking a 1.5" wide strip of metal, and making two rows of holes, just wide enough that you can jam the cleco pliers in between. Drill holes half way between these and you can stick another two rows of clecos in from the other side. Since clecos are long and skinny, this takes up way less room than a flat tray and saves some space. VS. a bag, it lets you grab them faster, and you can see if you left one on the floor or in a panel easily
@@OutlawEdge I would consider you one of the rare dying breed (an artist) of metal fabricators who's trade skill isn't easily replaced in today's ever evolving manufacturing world.
Good video to show those pins tho if your drilling a hole anyway I find 2.5mm self tappers works just as well but far cheaper than buying that tooling, and I don’t mind losing a self tapper. And small mole grips pin all panels together solid.
like to see more videos . that looks like a dodge quarter panel which I'm going to be starting to fix soon. I was thinking about adhesive, but I bought a welder which I'd rather use.
The spot weld cutter was a great tool until I broke 2 of them and the boss got pissed. They are a little pricey. I switched to pop rivet drills, short double-sided bits for a pilot hole. Much happier boss!
@@JuanHernandez-ub3ez Our cutters were 35 bucks each. If the weld was a little rough or user had the cutter crooked, it would grab and break the cutter. It was like a big drill bit breaking through thin metal. Body work 101. Don't do that! Thanks CM
I like your work, i do the same job. i can't believe you guys still use those shit spot weld cutters, get a wurth spot weld drill.. those cutters were shit 40yrs ago when they were first introduced..
@@OutlawEdge They look like a normal drill, but the cutting end looks like a milling cutter with a little spike, to centralise it in the middle of the spot weld..
Ever thought about getting yourself a air punch/panel flange tool? Punch the holes in the repair panel, flange ,epoxy (panel bond) ,cleco in place and done!
Good job, thanks..... Once your metal is finished cut, how do u hold the new pcs in place, are they butt welded? Or a small lap weld, or a verrrrry small gap? Thanks.
This is great, thanks for taking the time to post it. Been looking for a good way to trace panel patches and the best way to do it so I get a good butt weld. Dumb question tho....the hole in the original metal goes away, but how do you fill the one in the new patch? Esp, there where your access is limited. I got a couple of spoons but not sure the best way to fill the holes from clecos and sheet metal screws. Thanks agin for posting this.
sjhippie just a small spot weld but hold a piece of copper behind the hole as u weld it up so it gets really good penetration bro. 👍 thanks for. Watching
Yes they are reusable over and over. Ive never even worn one out 👍😃 they are amazing tools. These are used by the military on aircraft over and over to build planes. So they are actually military grade. Thanks for watching
Angelo Nicassio u can weld up the hole in the panel before bodywork. But they also have clamp style clecos so u dont have to drill holes in the panels. Thanks for watching
Good job on video. I’m no body man but kind of jack of all I bought a 03 Toyota Tacoma new frame under it. Small amount of rust on bed over rear tires. Would you weld in new or fiberglass it
Tommy Anderson honestly the fiberglass will fall out after time. I would weld in a new panel and after welding clean the welds really good and cover all your welds with fiber putty before doing any final bodywork or primer. It will last forever that way. 👍
Tony Krogman thats not a dumb question at all bro. You take a small scrap of sheet metal and drill holes in it to put the clecos in. So u would have one cleco on the panel and one cleco on the second panel to hold it in place. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching
"butt clamps" work best (in my opinion) for tacking the panels in place after everything is cut, cleaned, and prepped. i bought 16 butt clamps for $25 on ebay (new & free shipping)
What kind of truck is that? Looks maybe about an 03 Silverado? Do they sell just a patch panel or did you have to get the whole bedside? I just ask, because if you had to buy the whole bedside, why not replace the whole thing if you already had the bed off? Just as much work, without all the bondo and extra holes required... but if they sell just a patch panel like that piece, then that's pretty cool. Still a great helpful video on clecos, thumbs up.
Don't need anything drill bit you just said it would have sent her points in the middle of it and then that little thing rides in The dimple like a grill does no need for a center hole just a heavy punch mark
only need 1 toolfor different size clecos? or is it like every other useful thing i want a tool for each size of clecos costing me too much money so that i wont buy it !
Same thing here in Germany Brother, my daughter had an accident on her way to Spain with her Nissan Maxima QX which is a Infiniti i30 in the US. The drill bit we did the same method because this spring loaded pin is a PITA. Keep up the good work actually I stoped by to check those Clecos out. Here's how we did it ru-vid.comr1MeVe5Uf10?si=SaGtMmGkkoMU1E73
Jimmy Johnson maybe cause i had a cold. RU-vid is nothing but whining ass bitches. Why do they always troll? Lol. Theres many other videos to waste your time watching 👍
@@OutlawEdge To glue on a F-150, 8 ft box side, you need about 10 good buddies, every clamp/vice grip you can get, and a glue-free test run. No beer until success!! It is like a shuttle launch, ONE chance to victory.
Darrel Holmgren belt sander for what? These clecos only hold the panel in place to be welded properly. Isnt a belt sander for woodworking? Thanks for watching
