Nice video. In my 70 F100 I went all out, i.e. complete cover, and used Dynamat on the floors, roof, and inside the door panels. Then used 1/4" thick Dynaliner on the roof and floors on top of the Dynamat for better insulation. The cab is solid, quiet, and better temperature controled. Add a few strip the the gas tank behind the seat to quiet the slosh. One of the best upgrades I ever did, well worth the extra effort. No more tin can and enjoy the music.
I have been wanting to get the acoustishield for my '67 Riviera for a few years now. I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a whole car kit and it arrived about a week before this video aired. All I have to do is finish up welding the floor pan and coat it with POR-15 then I can get to insulating.
Great tips! I've been wanting to do this for a while. You ain't kiddin' about the 55 gallon drum effect. When it rains, I can't hear myself think in there! And it gets really hot in the summer with my AC not working. Looks like you have some tint to the windows...that's on my list too!
I'm also curious about putting Dynomat in the door panels to help with noise reduction. Do you plan on doing that/making a video on that? With the panels off and the windows rolled up, it should be pretty easy to do.
A few years ago you did a video on lizard skin heat and sound control products. Do you have an update on how well it hold up and preforms over the years.
It holds up great and functions wonderfully over time. It does not like direct "traffic" getting in and out of the car and putting you foot directly on the Lizard Skin, but you should have a mat or carpet so that won't be an issue.
Somebody may have mention this already but there is a fundamental problem with the way you measured the temperature of the foil with heat applied to the roof. The infrared gun you are using is displaying the background temperature not the actual temperature of the foil. Foil has a very high emissivity, meaning it is a great reflector. TheTemperature of the components within the cab are reflecting off the foil. You will need to put some tape or other non reflective material on the foil to get a more accurate temp. Black 3m electrical tape will get you close. The spot ratio of the gun will also influence the displayed temp. The gun takes an average temp of spot and displays that average. The distance between the tip of the gun and the built in ratio will determine how big of an area you are getting an average temperature from. The gun spot ratio should be on the unit itself or in the instructions. The instructions should tell you where the laser dot is in relationship to the measured spot. Use the spot ratio to determine what size piece of tape you need to place on the foil for the distance you are measuring from. The insulation installed will reduce the amount of heat and not trying to argue that. Just thought i would pass along a little info to help obtain an accurate temp.
I also did a super high tech "finger test". I'll use this method later. Sadly the gun is my dads...where he put them is info that isn't available, BUT we REALLY appreciate your input for future use.
No head liner in my daily driver. It gets cooking in summer. The tub sound isnt bad but also when it rains it condenses on roof inside too. I am gonna do my roof soon and put some louvers in extra hood I got. Bypassed heater core for less heat during summer. Lining doors if possible helps you can get spray on for inside doors.
If looks don't matter, you can use Frost King Duct Insulation to cut down on the heat. My wife likes the bear roof in her Cherokee , so I plan to spray Lizard Skin (will knock temps down by 30 degrees) then repaint in the factory color.
Jeff you said that you are going to have to redo the dash pad. did the weatherstrip glue not hold up.? i was going to use the 3M weatherstrip glue aka yellow death. but maybe i should use some silicone instead.? glad to see Col. Mustard back in the shop. i am restoring at the same time a 1967 Ford f-100 and a 1967 Ford Mustang Coupe.
Yeah, it popped up about a month ago. I'm going to go back in with the stuff the company recommends. Biggest problem is getting the release agent on the part to go away. the 3M stuff is sticking to the old pad, but not the cover.
If i want the most possible sound dampening (wind noise tok not only rattles) should I dynamat the entire roof? And perhaps add the heat insulation on top of that? Thanks!
The way we did it is the best way. I always laugh when I see folks lay swaths of sound deadener down. I've done it too. And we all waisted soooo much money. The factory guys use very little of these sheets to achieve the same results. We might do a video on a way to find where to place the product and use less to get the same result.
NPD doesn't show much of a description but does it come with both dynamat, adhiesive and acoustishield or just the acoustishield? Heres the link to what I need for my 73 I think. www.npdlink.com/store/products/acousti_shield_kit_sound_and_temperature_insulation-126404-50088.html
