Thank you for sharing this is great info I've been using Jax blackner for copper & brass for quite awhile but really want to try the Silver Plating solution It's a good idea to wear gloves when working with these solutions 😊
Hi Hanks, Per the label, the main concern with this product is skin contact. It is recommended to not breathe any vapors directly off the liquid, but so long as you keep it away from your face and off your skin, you shouldn't have much to worry about. You can wear an N95 if you're feeling extra cautious, but the label doesn't warn against using it indoors and it doesn't seem to produce any significant fumes.
Hi Carol, No, we haven't. Unfortunately, since we specialize in jewelry/metalwork, it would be difficult for us to pull together a stained glass project. We just don't carry the other products necessary to make it happen easily and don't have much experience in that craft. We may demonstrate the copper plating solution at some point, but it would likely be a demonstration of it covering silver solder joints in copper jewelry.
Hi, Unfortunately, we haven't done a lot of experiments with sealing. JAX Chemical seems to generally not recommend any sealant on their products, claiming that it generally just is more trouble than its worth. Whether to use a sealant and what sealant is best to use is going to depend heavily on the project (is it jewelry, is it sculpture, is it indoor, is it outdoor, etc) and the patina used (as they can react differently to different situations).
I removed the oil rubbed finish from my bathroom faucet. I’m wondering if the black/brown application will restore? The faucet is solid brass. Anyone have experience with this issue?
Hi, This would be a good situation for JAX Brown patina. When you apply it, it will leave a very flat brown color, so depending on how you would like the final finish to look, you may want to buff it off the highlights a bit with either steel wool or a polishing cloth. It could take a few tries of patina and cleaning before you figure out the process that will produce the finish you want. JAX Chemical's website also has a lot of great tips for application. We specialize in jewelry so the scope of our knowledge is a bit limited, but JAX formulates these patinas for more industrial uses, so they're very equipped to provide advice for a situation like this.
Hi! So, if the powders are raw metals, and not coated in anything, they should react fine with the patinas that are formulated for that specific metal. However, you may encounter a problem when it is time to rinse the patina off and dry the metal powder. Especially with iron, as it might rust while you are waiting for it to dry. A possible approach could be using the least amount of patina possible, stirring it in to a bit of metal powder, and allowing it to evaporate instead of rinsing. Another approach I've seen is applying patinas after the resin is cured. This isn't as effective or as uniform as some would like, but it seems to work well for distress type finishes like rust. It may be important to note that in this case I've seen the caster coat the inside of the mold with a layer of powder before filling with resin, leaving a higher concentration of metal on the surface. I haven't seen JAX in particular used in this way, though, this is mostly generic and anecdotal info. If you decide to give it a try, let us know how it goes!
Hi Freya, Sorry for the delayed response. The gold finish does not work well on silver. If you shop for this product online, you may see some label photos saying it works on silver - JAX is removing this from the label due to mixed results, so don't trust the label on that. I've seen a few times that it can make a warmtoned gold-like effect sometimes, but it really isn't consistent.
Hi, It depends on the product. Most of these work within a few seconds to a few minutes. Some others such as JAX's green patina take a little longer - depending on desired results, it can be up to a few hours.
