Hi mate great video but as a limelight user myself I have a little tip for you regarding the bubbles, firstly try not to scratch as deep the bubbles come from the plaster not having a key because there is air between the scratch lines and the plaster, Also I tend to do 2 coats on the finish, I use a really tight coat to start to make sure the plaster is pressed into all the scratches and then I use a thicker second coat on top of that and it works wonders for the bubbles.
I tried to resist but I can't. I have to have my two-penneth worth. Hope you don't mind. I don't use Limelite myself because - although it certainly is an alternative to lime plaster - it is far from an alternative to genuine traditional lime plaster. Limelite is quick and easy but it's not a conservation product. Tarmac have been careful to call it renovating plaster because that doesn't mean anything. Nevertheless, their marketing strategy makes it sound like it possibility might be suitable for older buildings. But the fact is, Conservation Departments won't accept it on listed buildings because it contains cement and isn't breathable. I can see why you used it on a small job like that. And you have actually done a lovely job. I understand that a traditional 3 coat system would make a job like that untenable. I must complement you on that join though, it's not just the product or the right tools which make that happen.
Great vids you explain plastering and materials so well.The limelight vid is great even how to mix it correctly. Looking forward to your next vid. Well done.
Hi, Trying this product for the first time. Was wondering if you dampened down the wall before applying or do you tend not to bother. If it had been a larger area would you have done? Would appreciate your guidance. Thanks
I'm a retired plasterer/drywall finisher in the US. Have enjoyed watching. I am curious about the limelite material as to how it would compare with the USG Structolite here in the US which is a lightweight base coat plaster with crushed volcanic glass aggregate that can be used for thicker applications..
Nice work mate… we use modern lime products too, might give this a go. We have used lime solo, also use cork insulated plasters too. Plastic trowel is a winner with lime 👍🏻
Thanks, I’ve not tried them I’ll have to look them up. It’s so much easier that the traditional lime. I did a old farm house up in traditional lime, it almost killed me. Yeah the plastic trowels become a game changer for me lately 👍
Hi,I'll be using limelight for the first time in a couple of week,did you skim it in one coat ? Can I skim it the usual way you use multifinish.thanks.
Hi iam pricing for a small similar project on old very damp brickwork, (leaking gutter) I noted you didn't use the Limelite Easy Bond breathable primer I was wondering why you wouldn't find it necessary to use this... any advise appreciated.
Great video Anthony! Can you advise as to whether using this renovating Limelite would be ok to use and apply to Cob walls instead of a lime putty render? Or would you not use Limelite on Cob Wall?
Hello! I've been watching your video to help me do a similar type of job in my Victorian kitchen. Any tips on how to get the second layer to stick.? Am now going over a layer I did yesterday and bits of it seem to be falling off. Is the mix not wet enough? I'm using cornerstone insulating render. Thanks so much for any advice!! Kate
Cheers Bud, i Really Appreciate it 😀 I’ve been watching your videos fir a while now. You’re doing great I’ve been enjoying them. It’s great seeing a few of us sharing the knowledge 👌
@@AnthonyParryPlastering thanks for the feedback. Only learning off your videos. I liked this one as it was a bit longer, and had more detailed dialogue on the process. I don’t do much lime, so I liked how you went about this job. Keeping a watch on your 1000 sub target. Getting close. 💪💪💪
Thanks, I think we’re all learning from each other. I love getting tips and tricks from everyone. I’ve been copying you today I’ve been doing sand and cement with my Refina Superflex 3 it’s been in need of breaking it in too. Yeah it’s not getting far off a 1000 now. You’re not that far off yourself 👍 just gotta keep putting yourself out there 😀
I've only got a small area to cover. Expensive (and would have lots left over) if I bought base layer AND finishing Limelite. How good a final finish could I get just with the basecoat and a steel trowel? It's going to be behind shelving, so super polished finish not needed. Tanx
What sort of paddle are you using and why that sort compared to the more traditional paddle.? I thought it was a bird cage paddle but it does seem to be so when viewing it on it side. Is there an advantage to using this paddle? Thank you!
We had a couple of big refurb jobs a while back using this stuff.Pricey but an absolutely brilliant product.We used to have to put a slurry coat on before the backing coat,have they changed it?
It is great stuff. I never really had to put on a slurry coat on. The walls I tend to do have a good key, so I’ve never felt that they need to put a slurry coat on.
I have lime on my walls that i need to skim over. I also have normal plasterboard on one wall. Can i use this to skim over the plasterboard or am i better of with regular gypsum?
I’m doing a job at my mums and the house is mainly cob basically mud really. Would I be ok too use this product on that? If so would I need too prime the walls or go straight over with the scratch coat? I’m getting really stressed lol
Does the high impact finish benefit from a final trowel up with any plastic trowel? Seen you using the plasiflex then the carta 101 in another vid. Is the carta substantially stiffer than the plasiflex? Thanks
Hi, I do think the plastic trowel leaves a better finish and takes a lot of effort away. The carta 101 is a lot stiffer and means that you can get a better finish earlier, that’s what I’ve found. But you can use a steel trowel to get a good finish but I’ve found it takes a lot of effort.
Hi Anthony I'm just in the process of putting on the renovating plaster upto a meter on the walls that are damp but not on the bay window/door which looks like lime/renovating plaster but has multi on. Can I use the high impact finishing plaster over the top to smooth it all or will it want to fall off. ? Tia Karl
Plus, I've started knocking the old stuff off and it looks like Browning. It was right down to the floor so obviously in conjunction with that the wall would never breathe , Surely?? Thanks
Looking at Limelite's website they say this "Any paint used must be breathable. Typically, these are water based, trade emulsion or clay/mineral based paints. Avoid vinyl paints." Any idea about more specifics of the water based paints? Obviously, if we can use breathable (non vinyl) emulsions, that'll be a lot cheaper than mineral or clay paint.
all that weight will fall off as there is no mechanical grip, would galvanised mesh not have been a better idea ? also if you make the mix slightly wetter you could even throw the plaster onto the wall.
Hi James, I personally wouldn’t use SBR or Pva. I would control it with water. But it would depends what purpose you want to use the renovating plaster. If you are only using it to stop salts coming through the wall (as in damp proofing) it should be fine to use sbr. But if you want the walls to be breathable you don’t want to seal them with pva or sbr. They do have a primer you can use if you are struggling.
Hi Nick I wouldn’t use this with renovating plaster. Limelite have a product that you can use called easy bond. Blue grit would seal the background so it I would effect the breathability.
If you had to skim the top half can you skim over the high impact plaster or have you got to use the impact on bottom and skim on top and blend both in or can you skim over the limelight from top all way down?
You can skim over it but it would defeat the point in using the renovating plaster and high impact plaster. If think there is a primer you can get so you could use the high impact all over.
I gotta do same as what you've done hack off the bottom and I've reckonmended the limelight but the whole wall has got to be skimmed so not sure if you cud skim over it
Awesome, thanks. We're deep in a renovation and using limelite. The renovating plaster was great but struggled with the high impact stuff today, felt like it went stiff in the bucket really quickly, and was a bit like philadelphia cheese to work with - not ideal. Any tips on consistency much appreciated!
The weather can play a big part. I’d just say mix it a bit wetter and maybe remix it a bit sooner if it’s pulling in too much. Also spray the wall before putting it on to control some of the suction.
Hi Tom. Limelite is as the manufacturer states itself - made from Portland cement, expanded perlite aggregate, limestone flour and hydrated lime. The reason it goes stiff quickly is because it is Cement. (Exactly what you do not want). So when you mix it with water the cement immediately starts its chemical curing process. If it had no cement then you would have ample time to work the material - Hotlime mixes are workable for days in right conditions. The Lime has zero ability to act like it would in a natural 100% Lime mortar/plaster - as the cement is totally impermeable - meaning Cement traps moisture. Cement is a far harder and stronger binder than Lime and as such it totally stops the Lime from acting how it normally does when used on its own. The Lime in Limelite simply acts as a plasticiser - it in no way allows for any breathability. If you are looking for a product that will set quicker than a Hotlime mix - then go for NHL 2 or 3.5 (NHL 5 is nearly never recommended unless you have strong maritime coastal conditions). The lower the NHL number - the higher the freelime content and greater the breathability factor.
@@paullynch277 Straight from the Limelite website: Limelite Renovating Plaster is breathable, allowing moisture to be released. Improved breathability and less retained moisture helps to avoid mould growth and efflorescence. So what the h*ll are you going on about?
Adam I will take it that you have a basic understanding of the scientific properties that both Portland Cement (Impermeable) and Lime (Permeable) individually have as materials. If not then please research it to understand. What I have stated is fact - it is not a contrived opinion based on assumption - it is a statement based on fact. Now when you combine a strong impermeable material (cement) with an inherently weak but permeable material (Lime) you don't magically end up with a permeable (breathable) material as the manufacturer claims. The Cement completely overrides the ability of the Lime to act as it normally does. The Lime in Limelite cannot facilitate the capillary movement of moisture to be expelled from the render as the cement is impermeable. The Cement encapsulates the Lime - therefore the only thing the Lime does in this product is to act as a Plasticiser. If you have a wall that needs to be renovated then I highly suggest you stay away from Limelite - instead ideally you should use a Traditional Hotlime (or Lime Putty) Mortar/Render, or if you want a more easy to find and use option - use Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL 2.0 or 3.5).
@@paullynch277 I'd guess this plaster is more permeable than cement plaster while less permeable than lime plaster. I have a hard time believing this product is a complete scam as you suggest, sometimes the 'proof is in the pudding'.
I use one from the builder I was working for. I’m gonna pick one up from Amazon in the next few weeks so I’ll let you know what I think in it when i get it. 👍
Hi mate, brilliant video! Can you use limelite finishing plaster on top of traditional lime finishing? Got a job some areas back to lath, fella was wanting to keep it lime based to keep house breathing...
another nice vid mate, dont suppose you know if this limelite renovating plaster would be allowed in listed buildings that currently have lime plaster that needs repairs? 🤔
Thanks, It all depends on the area you live in. It should be allowed because it’s a modern equivalent, but I know people who’ve upset the people in charge and they made them go traditional lime. It well accredited so should you should be fine, but it’s best to check.
Thanks for a very useful video as I am just about to use this. On the 'Limelite' pages they have Easy Bond but I did not see you use this. It is expensive so is it needed or can I do anything else to prepare the wall before applying the renovating plaster ?
Hi Robert, thanks 😊 it all depends on the backing. If you don’t have much key then yes you’ll need to use Easybond. It tends to be use if you’ve got smooth areas that needs a key, But if you’ve got stone, brick or block there should be enough key. Just make sure it’s clean and dust free.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering That's great, thanks for your reply. Need to hack off original plaster and render back to brickwork so should be OK as you say. Thanks again for your help.
Hi, can you let me know how you secure your beads as I could not see that in the video ? Thanks for your help as I am not a plasterer and only do this occasionally so need all the help you can give. Cheers Bob
Hi, can you let me know how you secure your beads as I could not see that in the video ? Thanks for your help as I am not a plasterer and only do this occasionally so need all the help you can give. Cheers Bob
Hi Bob, in this job I tacked the beads on with nails. Sometimes I bed them on and sometimes I’ll screw them on as well. It all tends to be on the circumstance of the job. If I’m drying lying walls I will put them on with some dry wall. Sometime I’ll bed them on with skim. I’ve used beadfix tape and that works quite well.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering OK many thanks for your reply and info. I just could get them to stick using the renovation plater so was a bit baffled. Many thanks for being so helpful. Cheers Bob
Hi Philip, i don’t use pva or Sbr I always make sure the wall has enough key and is clean and sometimes a spray of water and I go from there. I’m not sure using pva would be the best thing to use. Yeah I put on 1 good coat of the high impact plaster on. And after I flatten it I put a bit extra in the areas it needs.
Hi bud what does the date that’s printed on the bags of lime lite mean is it the date of production or best before Searched up its :;; date of production 👍
I have done a wall in my own home with lime putty render on the inside, but the outside wall is rendered in sand and cement and painted over with masonary paint. The only place for water to go is into my home, and there is a darker colour around the base of the wall for that reason. Traditional lime might be the right choice in an old builing, but not when the inner and outer leaf are have a mix of modern and old materials. The lime replaced gypsum plaster, which was a disaster. But I might have been better of with renovating plaster on account of the waterproofing agents in it. Not so breathable, but no water marks.
I don’t think the renovating plaster would make much difference, it’s still a breathable material. It’s still going to highlight where the moisture is coming in from. If your render outside is good You might be better off tanking the inside wall to stop any water coming through. Its a difficult one to judge without seeing all factors.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering I think that renovating plaster is close to 1:1:6, with perlite aggregate instead of sand, waterproofers and salt inhibitors. With trad lime mortar, the water can wick through the wall. With renovating plaster, I wonder if it will just let vapour through.
I’m using the Ragni angle trowel as my main. And I’ve got some smaller Marshalltown angle trowels for when I only have small margins. I’m really impressed with my Ragni.
Great vids although I've been at the game 40 yrs now still like to watch the young ones lol but u do great 👍 I didn't catch the bit wer u said the drill u use I've got the big makita had for yrs but just for a change fancy going cordless keep up with the young trend 😉 but begrudge paying wat dewalt want for ther cordless hiw much is the one u use
Thanks, I’m not as young as you think 😀 The mixer I’m using is the Mikita DUT130. It’s about £250 body only. It’s been a game changer for me. having a cordless just makes everything easier. Ive not tried the dewalt but everyone raves about it. 👍
Great job but any spread needs a labourer, doing all that graft to save a customer a few bob is crazy!! I'd always have a lab with me for that kind of work, you'll know about it in a few years when the body is beat up
Hey bud, for me I only go left to right when you are skimming. If you are using render you go right to left. This is so that you are working into the stuff so you can keep a consistent thickness. Some plasterers will go Left to right when floating but that’s not the way most plasterers are taught.
