The how's and especially the why's of Sanding Sealers are often misunderstood. Find out what you should be using and when you should be using them with Chestnut Products' guide to Sanding Sealers
That as they say is how a good video instructs, I love the British way well explained and no blooming hype. Excellent video, ever since Manners went bust I have been using Chestnut S&S great product.
I use nothing else but your acrylic sanding sealer to seal the wood of my guitars after staining. It's really well compatible with products line tru oil. Great stuff.
Just a thought and a tip, I thin the S&S and apply a coat(brush) to all and any plywood I am about to work on, it keeps the wood clean and hardens the surface while I'm working on it and I have found using a Stanley knife as a marking Knife works very well with the S&S,
This is ok when used in this way, to harden the wood prior to working on it, but the sealer works best when used neat when used as part of the finishing (not preparation) process :-)
@@chestnutproducts3097 After watching the vid there are a few extra products I have to try out thanks for the response and your dead right used neat its best, but for an 8X4 sheet a bit of thinners saves a few bob,?
@@Billlupton If you only want to harden the plywood then thinning it is fine; if you want it to make the final finish better then not really, it's a false economy.
Terry! Love getting your newsletter every Friday! I am a newbie ~RU-vidr and woodturner gal and am just getting to grips with your stuff. What's the yellow sponge thing??? Claire x
Hi Claire. Glad you're enjoying the Newsletter. Do you mean our NyWeb pads? Have a look at this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y411mGmW8I4.html
Hi Colin, you're very welcome and I'm glad you found it useful. The Cellulose Sanding Sealer can be left as the final finish, it might not be very shiny (possibly not a problem) and it won't be as robust as, say, a Melamine Lacquer but if your item doesn't need a lot of protection it'll be fine. Terry
Hi John. I use Hard Wax Oil in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0MUMMOCrswY.html . Best practice is to only apply one coat of sealer.
Hi there, I just wanted to ask about sealing balsa wood. I'm thinking about making some fishing floats (bobbers) from Balsa wood and am thinking of using a dipping technique to avoid any brush marks. There are many sealers available but like to know if a sealer thinned down to use this technique would work. If so, which would be the right one to use?
That's such a specialist and specific use Pete that we don't have any experience of it. If any sealer is going to work it'd be the Cellulose Sanding Sealer, my main concern would be how long it would last in use. You'd need to do some product testing (i.e dip some floats) to see how it works.
Hi is it only the shellac sealer that leaves the wood slightly darker? I hoping to find a replacement for my Danish oil but fancyed the water based acrylic thanks
We wouldn't recommend flooding the surface. It's not necessary, and could lead to problems. Just brush, wipe or spray on a single coat, that's all that's needed. Cut back using the same grit that you last used on the bare wood.
Hi Michael. Sorry, I didn't see that question. We have plans for a lot more films in 2019, we should be including Food Safe Finish. Watch this space! Terry
That's a way too complicated question to answer here! Have a look at this: chestnutproducts.co.uk/cold-workshops-wax-transference-and-melting-lacquers-and-some-reminders/ That should help
Hi James. I wouldn't normally clean after each grit, I reckon that any very slight benefit that could be achieved by doing so would be outweighed by the time and effort involved. Really pleased to hear you like the films, thank you! Terry
@@ChestnutProducts The theory is that minute particles of the abrasive do come off the substrate; if these are not wiped away, they can supposedly leave scratches when the next grit is applied, reducing the quality of the finish. A simple wipe over with your hand should be enough to remove these. I can't say I have noticed a significant difference, but a simple wipe of the hand takes so little effort or time that I have been doing this between grits for the last few years, just in case!
Hi @@craftsmanwoodturner. I like that you're slightly sceptical of this theory and I'd tend to agree with that. If anything this highlights the importance of using good quality and fresh abrasive - there shouldn't be anything shed by the abrasive at all. Plus, wiping over with a hand increases the risk of transferring oil, grease or moisture to the surface and these can have a much more detrimental effect on finishing than minute particles. As a rule I resist the temptation to stroke the timber until I've at least put a sealer on it.
@@ChestnutProducts It's from last week I started with a project. So patches found on Wenge & Walnut, lots of other wood species on this project not affected. All the same process, wet sanding until 400, then 600 & 800 dry, sanding sealer, then water base varnish.
@@dozukime The white patches would suggest otherwise, I'm afraid. I suspect that some of the timbers are still retaining the oil; this is causing an adhesion failure which is showing up at the white patches. Maybe try without the oil/wax?
Not really. Many claims are made about various finishes, but too often are either untested or use test standards that are largely irrelevant. We are working on something, but can't say more unless we can get it 100% right.
Hi Paul Sanding Sealers are designed to, and work best when allowed to, do the job in one coat. Whilst there are occasions when it makes the application easier to thin the sealer slightly (10-20%) this should only really be done when you have to, not as a routine thing. In fact it can be detrimental to the final finish to apply more than one coat of sealer (thinned or not) and this should be avoided if at all possible (absorbent pieces such as spalted wood are the main exception). Terry
Looks like I've been doing it wrong Terry, two coats diluted with 40% thinners brushed on! I'll try one coat undiluted and applied with a cloth. Thanks for the video and the answer!
Hi. Nice video, thanks. One question please, my snooker cue which is made of ash wood has grains in it. After playing and cleaning the cue with damp cloth for a couple of months , grains on cue pop out and can be felt during playing. I have to sent to cue maker for refinish. What do you think which of these sand sealers will more suitable for snooker cue to fill those grains and make cue smoother? After sealing grains I will apply oil finish (linseed oil). Thanks.
If you're going to oil the cue I wouldn't use a sealer at all. Now that the grain has been raised with the damp cloth (possibly not the best thing to be using on a wooden item), if they are sanded back they shouldn't raise again, so the problem should solve itself.
Chestnut Products thanks for your prompt reply. Cue makers filled the grains and then sand it and then apply oil finish. How to close or fill those pores? What do you suggest? I tried shellac on one cue and then sand it with 0000 steel Wool with linseed oil. Results were better. I just didn’t want to use sand paper on my cue. After applying sealer Do I have to sand it till it reaches the wood? Because I only want to fill pores and don’t want an extra coating on cue wood. Thanks for your input.
@@786hunzavalley A sanding sealer will leave an extra coating on the wood, but it will be so thin as to be unnoticeable. Just a light sanding is all that is needed, 0000 Steel Wool will be fine, but you shouldn't need to remove all of it.
Chestnut Products thanks for reply. Which sanding sealer I should use on Ash wood cue among these 3 sealers you mentioned in your video? Look to your reply. Cheers.
