32 years in this business has shown me a thing or two.Using sharkbite fittings is quite easy to do for the average home owner....Please subscribe and have a great day.
Your video was a life saver. While trying to replace a soil pipe in a 90 year old home I accidentally put a small hole in my copper hot water pipe to the second floor - therefore, this was just what I needed. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. Have a great day!
Hello Check, Thank you! I really appreciate that! I was hesitant on using them at first, but did numerous tests with them and they have proven to be a very well made product! In one of my videos I did a test where I added 275 pounds of weight to the end of three couplings using copper and pex pipe. The more weight I added the deeper the teeth dug in. If anyone tells you they will pop off; they definitely didn't have them on the proper distance. They also make them up to two inches in size. I have used a valves where water was an issue and they worked remarkably well! They state they can be used underground, but I prefer solid connections in those applications myself. Would never hesitate to use them for a quick repair! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Very nice demo, thankyou. One of the comments gave a heads up on plastic insert as stated by Sharkbite that is not necessary to remove for copper. He had a problem. Yes some times, the odd time it can be hard to insert with plastic inside onto copper it might cut down pressure on heating pipes and then try to pop it off, you will work up a sweat trying to get it off, not fun. So remove them. Thanks
Hello Michael, You're welcome! I really appreciate your input. Since I found the problem I remove them whenever I use them on copper. Sharkbite's site use to say that it was not necessary to remove them on copper, but it was up to the individual doing the work. They MUST stay in place when using them on Pex as you know. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I used the shark bite fitting on eight different occasions on copper pipe and did not remove plastic fittings! well it's been more than a year and have not had any leaks or trouble with them! So as my grandma always told me if it ain't broke do not fix it! Besides that great video and God Bless You!
Al, you saved the day for me. I had a pin hole leak and couldn't fix it. So, I got on RU-vid and found your video. I literally followed all of your instructions, went to Home Depot and picked up the supplies you recommend and within an hour I had fixed. Sliding that shark bit back up into position took some time, but it eventually gave and snapped right into place. Thanks a million, now I can watch the Super Bowl today. Regards, Gary
I learned of these one day when I went to home depot to get some supplies to replace valves underneath a kitchen sink, I was dreading having to take out the torch and make a mess... now I use them all the time, in my rental properies as well. Worth every cent.
Hello bandit123kat; They are very common now and work very well. Biggest thing is to make sure they go on all the way. This is the most important thing to remember. I have used them as big as 2" in size and they were most impressive. Ideal for a quick fix! Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
@knight1605 Hey Nigel; I haven't tried the Yorkshire fittings yet, but I had heard they were popular in Europe. I will have to see if they have that brand of push-fit here yet. Can you remove the fitting like a sharkbite as well by pushing in on the outside ring or are they like a victaulic push-fit that can never be removed? Sharkbite is becoming very popular over here. The plastic fittings are not called Acorn by chance are they? Tks for commenting and hope to here from you soon!!! Al
Thank you for these excellent videos! Because of you, I was encouraged to fix some serious plumbing issues using SharkBite fixtures and PEX with confidence in your instruction and the products.
If you don't have the removal clip I have found that a crescent wrench adjusted just tight enough to touch the pipe works just as well to remove the fittings.
Hello FlyBoySlim, You are definitely right on that. Used it a number of times myself. A pex clamp also works just as well as the removal clamp when having to take the joint apart. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I am re-plumbing my house in Detroit. I was warned to not use copper as they will break in and steal the copper. This is the best option. I was afraid of taste and smell from the pex. This is straight forward and looks easy.
I have been using shark bite fittings for 8 years and never herd of removing the sleeve for copper, and I never have removed it when I have used them with copper. I don't know that it is wrong to remove it or right, but the way I have been using them has worked.
Hello Paul, According to the manufacturer; it is totally up to the installer if you remove the inner sleeve when using them on copper. No harm done if they stay in place. I ran into a situation once where a sleeve actually was pushed into the branch of a tee and reduced the flow so I have removed them whenever I install them on COPPER ONLY. I stress that because they MUST remain in place when using them on pex and CPVC. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I have an unusual situation where I need to know if a 3/4"-to-1/2" reducer (Sharkbite) allows water to move in both directions or whether water only flows from the 3/4" side to the 1/2" side. I want to drop down a ceiling water line from a 3/4" copper pipe to a 1/2" drop down (using 1/2" pex pipe) to direct water to a hose bibb. I shopped for Sharkbite fittings because I like that it's re-usable. My current water situation will change as we get this house together. The hose bibb for 1/2" sure looked small and when I got it home, the garden hose adapter didn't fit the garden hose I wanted to use - it was too small. I'm not sure what to do next but if the "reducer" allows flow in both directions, I'd be happy to put a 3/4" hose bibb on that so I can attach a regular garden hose. If I'm planning something that will blow up, please tell me, I'm just a DIYer, not a plumber! :D
Thank you, I found these things a few years ago, my house uses pex. These things make it so much easier to fix problems. The one thing I'm curious about, when using a shark bite on old pipes, does the pipe end have to be clean. Should I use chemicals, because most of it came off with a sponge
Hello Jon A, You're welcome! When installing Sharkbite fittings on copper you must make sure the copper has no burs on the end. Deburring the copper is recommended. AS far as cleaning the copper pipe goes; there is no need of cleaning it. Make sure the pipe has no paint on it or such and if so; use a little sand cloth to remove it. As long as the pipe feels smooth you should have no issues. I have seen where people have used sand cloth on the end of the copper pipe and then install the fitting, but as long as it feels smooth you really don't have to sand it. Burs are the biggest concern. Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Video on the SharkBite website actually says that it isn't necessary to remove the sleeve when using the fittings on copper. Where do you live that charges $35 for the measuring tool. I bought mine at Home Depot for $10.59
FYI, you do not need to remove the sleeve when using on copper per Sharkbite's own instructional videos. I don't think it would make a difference either way on copper but I mention it to ease the minds of people who left the sleeve on.
Hello Kevin, That is correct! Thanks for that!! You do not have to remove the sleeve when using it on copper pipe. As stated in the manufacturer's guidelines; it is up to the individual. I had an experience where the sleeve went into the branch of a tee and that is why I remove the sleeve when installing it on copper. The sleeve MUST be left in place when using it on pex or cpvc. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Thank you for clarifying that. I'm about to use it to replace my water heater and after watching this video was in doubt as to remove it or not. Thank You.
@BenjyBronky Hey Ben; Poly pipe has a different outside diameter then copper or pex. When I am using poly I only use nylon or brass fitting with stainless steel clamps that are entirely made of stainless. You can tell this by the markings on them. They will say All SS(only ones to buy). The cheaper clamp is stainless, but the screw is steel and is only a few cents cheaper. To many problems with the this style. Thanks for commenting and have a happy New Year!!! Al
I was so focused on the bad pipe installation, I completely missed what the piping was attached to - the duct. I haven’t done the task yet. Thanks for catching that and thanks for the response.
@Jdcap26 Hello JD; These fitting have been around for a while and are becoming more popular for sure. I use them myself for a quick repair and have not had any trouble yet. They have been in Australia for many years and made their way over to North America a few years ago and make things very easy for the average homeowner to repair. I have not tried the solder fitting like that yet, but I believe they are are popular in Europe. Best of luck and tks for commenting!! Al
I just finished watching an introduction video at the SHARKBITE website and they say there is no need to remove the white sleeve inside the fitting like you mentioned in this video. The sleeves are designed for copper pipes
Fantastic advice with products with pro's vs. con's depending on application. I am a small general contractor/plumber going back into business and need to get tooled up and educated in the pex world.
Hello Robert, I am glad you enjoyed it. There are a number of systems that are out there now. I am a Viega fan myself as the price is excellent as compared to Rehau. I used rehau until the price went through the roof. Big bonus of viega that I really like is the crimp rings are attached on most fittings which saves on chasing them around the floor. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the business. Al
Fantastic! I'm going to try these sharkbite fittings to attach a water line I run thru the attic. I'm running a cold water line thru the attic to a refrigerator that was moved do to remodeling the kitchen and our house is on a slab. I currently have copper and the plan was to go from copper to pex to make the run thru the attic down thru the wall to connect to a shut off valve. Any advice or helpful tips would be greatly appreciated. Your videos are very informative, Kepp them coming!
@harveybirdmannequin.It is possible to cut a section of copper out and use 2 sharkbite couplings using the slip style coupling and once it's placed on all the way you can take the plastic clip that comes with the fitting and push back the plastic on the end of the fitting that will release the stainless ring inside it and slide it back onto the pipe.If the water main is old and split I would look at replacing the entire line in the near future.Little hesitant to use sharkbite underground.GL
@TheOldkid888 Hi Old Kid, I'm a plumber in England. The fittings with the solder already in are called "Yorkshire" fittings and they are pretty good. We also have (just to confuse things) Yorkshire push fit which are made of copper but have a grab ring inside. They are good for at least 8-10 bar. On the cheaper side of plumbing fittings we have plastic pushfit and they are overtaking copper purely for the reason of cost. Cheers, Nigel.
I am a licensed plumber in Oregon. I sent you a video on misuse of sharkbites “Plumbers! Would you do this in your Mom's home?” The plumber who installed this, I assume was licensed, the water heater passed inspection. I hope I can get your thoughts on this.
Hello RDB; Since making this video I have come across Sharkbites installed in many places and have used some myself. I have to say they are an excellent product! I would NOT use them underground although the company says they can be used there.I have seen them in places now for about 6 years with no problems at all. I am from the old school and was a little skeptical at first,but have done some serious tests with them and they have proven out quite well.A video to follow soon about the testing!
Hello lastfan; I would recommend using a 3/4" blue pex waterline as your main supply that will give you added volume to your domestic water system. 3/4" pipe has twice the volume of 1/2" and you tend not to get big drops in pressure when using more then one faucet. I would also use 3/4" to feed the hot water tank and come off the tank with multiple lines to every fixture immediately at the tank. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thank for this ! My husband has been looking for the measurement that is not included on the package and You mentioned it in your video! He said it was so easy . Thanks.
Thanks for the demo and tips. Now I just have to figure out how to desolder the joints and work in extremely tight spaces in the hard to access area behind the water heater without starting the damp wood on fire! Fun, fun, fun!
Hello Joel, You're welcome! A set of mini pipe cutters may help you out in that tight space. They could save you some time and effort if a set of regular cutters won't fit. Well worth the cost. If you have to use the torch and the area is difficult to unsolder; be sure to have a spray bottle handy. I always have one handy for projects such as these. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
I installed a shark bite about 1 year ago on a copper pipe without removing the plastic inserts. It started leaking so I popped off and took out the plastic inserts as you recommended in your video and it stopped the leak. Thanks for this tip as sharkbite does not say anything about this on the package.
Hello Andrew, It may not have been the insert that was the problem. I always suggest marking the pipe the distance that it goes into the fitting. 7/8ths for 1/2" pipe fittings and 1 1/8th inches for 3/4 fittings. You don't neceesarily have to remove the insert. The manufacturer states that it is up the the individual when installing it on copper only. It must be left in place when using them on pex and cpvc. The only reason I remove them on copper is I came a across a situation on a 3/4 tee where the sleeve had been pushed back into the branch causing a restriction in the volume. I believe most people leave it in, but this is my decision to remove it. They do say it can be either taken out or left in. Either way; I am glad you managed to stop the leak. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
@Hucklebillyjones Hey Billy; Did you watch the entire video.I said I would not recommend them for underground work or as a permanent solution to repairing a leak.I stated that it was a quick fix.That's all.I have had places where I had to use them and they were installed for a period of time,but went back later and replaced the entire domestic water system. And I have been in this trade long enough to know what is a solid installation. Have a good day....Al
@Jdcap26 Hey Jd; That is great to know. Gators are just like sharkbites and work just as well. 90 psi is up there for sure in pressure. Great to hear everything is going your way. Nice to hear about the leadfree as well. Thanks for commenting and all the best!!! Al
I can understand your concern. Sharkbite mentioned in their videos that the fittings can be used inside wall cavities. Also, the plumber at Home Depot recommended the fittings as well. The problem is, how long do they last since they have been only around for a short period of time. If I try to go in from the back, I would have to open a wall to gain access. Not really sure I want the extra work. Even cutting an opening large enough in the shower I can't see as being enough to change it out.
I love the sharkbite. Saved me big time twice already in the last few months. Although I wonder how the quality compares to Gatorbite which has been my only option at times when a Lowe's instead of a Home Depot has been the only store around.
@cbhunter52 Thanks Hunter.I didn't really want to get into it to much with him, but sharkbite won't work on poly pipe anyway because it is a different size then regular water pipe. I am just trying to pass on some knowledge that I have accumulated over time. Any time I can help out I try my best to do so. Thanks for your comments CB and have a great week! Al
Hello mgrande11; Congrats on the repair! Nice to see it worked well for you. They are becoming more popular then ever. If it was a leak in the waterline itself; you may have to consider changing the waterlines sometime in the near future. Thanks for the comments and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Brandyredwine; Like the RU-vid name as I can relate! I have read the full booklet on sharkbite and they say that is up to the installer if they want to remove the plastic sleeve or not when it is being used on copper pipe. It has to remain to remain in place when using it on pex! I had one bad experience with a copper installation and I have removed the sleeve every since. Just my own preference. Thanks for the great comments and enjoy your weekend! Al
@jqaces hello; No idea where he came up with 98% leaks. I have had great success with them. I know a few people that even did their entire waterlines in their house over with pex and ALL sharkbite fittings. They have been around for a while and will be for many, many years. The tool you are referring to costs 35 dollars at all hardware stores around here. You will be all set with the sharkbite as long as the fittings go on all the way. Thanks for commenting and have a good one!!! Al
Jello Jeff; My thoughts exactly! Pex will expand 5 times more then copper! The sleeve is not necessary for this reason alone when installing them on copper,but are a must on pex! Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Hello eastcobb; That is the only reason why it would blow off and a little test may follow soon just to see what they will withstand.They are an excellent product and are now very popular.Over the last year they have increased tenfold according to the people I deal with in sales.I know alot of plumbers are not struck on them nor on plastic pipe at first, but I have had great luck and they are ideal for a quick fix. Thanks for commenting and enjoy the week! Al
Hello Binh Minh Pham, You're more than welcome! Sharkbite have become very popular over the past number of years. So you wouldn't need a compression fitting if you are sliding it over the copper pipe. They simply push on and the joint is made. I have seen a number of sharkbite valves under sinks now and they seem to be doing the job quite well. Like I said about them before many times; the biggest thing is to mark the pipe before installing them to make sure they are on the full distance. 1/2" sharkbites slide onto the pipe 7/8ths of an inch. Be sure to mark the pipe. I have done a number of tests with them and they are very impressive as far as making a good joint. This is one video if you are interested.....Sharkbite Fittings! Size and Weight! Weight Test! PLumbing Tips! I think they are a very good product. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
OId guy thanks for the post from another old guy, bought them today at the box store ,but forgot the 1 inch wort nipples ( female and male ) for my water house pressure pump set up . They also have the fittings that are already have the solder in them as well could not get any of them there, cheers
I really liked the video but you said, " you would NOT use them as a permanent solution for plumbing in your house." Do you mean you would not plumb a whole house above ground from scratch with these or below ground. I am a little skittish about these but they seem great. That statement just kind of threw me. Please advise. Thanks RDB
Nice video of a useful system for householders. A few comments were about soldering instead- hardly possible with plastic pipe repairs. I have a few points that were not clear to me- Sharkbite can obviously be used on plastic and metal as the video showed but you did not say that unless i missed it. You said the sleeve is not needed on some pipes but did not show how to remove them? There was blue and red plastic pipe in the video. What is the significance? I have some white pipe that looks identical to your red/blue. Can I use that? Overall a nice informative video useful to many of us. Thanks.
+Dennis yoj Sharkbite can be used on copper, pex and cpvc. It cannot be used on poly pipe.You can remove the sleeve from the fitting when installing it on copper only. You MUST leave the sleeve in the fitting when installing it on Pex or cpvc. The different colored pipes were laid out to show what colors pex which comes in. White being one of them. I would say that you can use the pipe that you have. Pex should not be exposed to UV rays or florescent lights for any length of time as they will break down. If I am running them near a window or florescent light I will cover them with insulation to prevent this from happening. Fire away if you have any more questions. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
You mentioned to remove the internal sleeve when using with copper pipe. IN my exploration of SharkBites, this is optional. The manufacturer states it is optional. If optional, why should they be removed? Under what circumstances? The other piece of research regarding the sleeve is that it could reduce the flow rate. Just wondering.
@ruudyc Hello; I agree that they are designed for copper pipes.I had one incident where I used a 3/4" tee on copper pipe and the sleeve actually went into the branch of it and blocked the supply of water off to the it to the point where there was very little water coming out of the faucet.It was very difficult to find,so now I just remove the sleeve which is my own choice. It is up to the homeowner for sure,but that was my experience.I ALWAYS leave the sleeve in for pex pipe. All the best! Al
oldkid, I ended up using a saddle valve and 1/4" copper with compression fittings. It worked great, finally have water to the new fridge!! As far ad cold weather, yes we live in northern Indiana. The plan was to insulate the copper line, and with it being in the attic I was hoping it would be kept above freezing. Any advice?
+Aviator168 They have been around since 1999. As far as how long they last I can't really give that answer. They are very popular and quite easy to install. They come in sizes up to 2". I made a video with a test near the end that is pretty impressive if you are interested... Sharkbite Fittings. Size and Weight! Weight Test! Plumbing Tips!Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
@plumberx Hey Plumberx; Sorry for the late reply as your message didn't show on my comment list. The sharkbite fitings certainly give the average homeowner a good chance of making a quick repair and allow them to get the water back on. They are pretty amazing and appear to be working exceptionally well! Thanks for commenting and have a great day!!! Al
I just had my friend remove a dishwasher from my kitchen. It had two water leads that fed into it. Because it had no shut off valve, and my friend said we couldn't remove that section of water pipe, he put sharkbite caps on both pipes. They're holding pretty good now, but the water that's flowing through my place is putting full pressure on those caps. Will they remain in tact, or will I need to replace the shut off valve?
Hello Deborah; As long as the caps are installed correctly, meaning they are pushed on all the way; you will have no issues. I have used them on systems where the pressure is 80 pounds and everything is fine. I did a test in one of my videos where I placed 275 pounds on four sharkbite couplings using pex and copper and they held with no problem at all. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Hello Deborah; A 1/2" sharkbite should go on the pipe 7/8ths of an inch. I would turn the water off as soon as possible and open a few faucets to relieve the pressure and then push it on the entire way. If not it could possibly pop off at any time. It is the most important thing about sharkbites. When installed correctly; you will have no worries of it coming off. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Hello lastfan; 1' would be better for sure, but if it is in your home where you are doing this work there is more then likely a 3/4" main coming into it. By increasing your pipe size after the 3/4 line to 1 inch it will not make any difference in your volume as the water has to come threw the 3/4 anyway. If you are on a well; you can increase it to 1". To be honest with you 3/4 should be more then sufficient if it is your home depending on the number of fixtures. Tks for commenting! G.L. Al
I had a professional Plummer give me a quote for a whole house repipe for $5500.....yea right! I repiped my whole house with pex and shark Bite for $800. It's been 3 years and works fine for me. I guess plummers would be afraid of losing business!
+Billy Ayoubi Certainly saved yourself a good chunk of change. They do work well. How long they last...time will tell. They have been around since 1999. I have done a number of tests on them myself. They do work well and are becoming very popular. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
im not a plummer and people need to realize they do charge more than doing it yourself project but, a plummer, just like an electrician, roofer, landscaper, mechanic, etc. also charge for their time it takes to do the job, for the experience, for the material, for insurance, licenses, training, fees, taxes and sometimes warranty. i love seeing people complaining about what they get charged versus DYI. it is always cheaper to do it yourself so if you don't wanna pay go ahead and do it but sometimes all of the other things i mentioned about come into play, specially the most important and expensive one. TIME.
Hey thanks for the video! Do you know what the sharkbite product you use at 2:32 is to fix the pinhole? I think i need one of those to repair a pinhole in my tube caused by a saddle valve.
Do you recommend these to swap out an old Moen to a Delta shower cartridge assembly in a already installed acrylic shower? I can't get to the cartridge straight from the back and I don't want to have to sweat the copper pipes.
Hello PapaNingas; They will work on both pex and copper quite well. The verdict is still out on the length of time they last. They are made of brass and as you saw; can be installed easily. I know some places where they have been in for about 5 years with no problems. I use them for a temperary repair myself. I prefer a solid connection, but many people are using them for new installs.I take it you don't get any cold temperatures as you are running the line in the attic. Tks 4 commenting! Al
Hello GalaXy808; I have read about the sleeve removal by the manufacturer. It is optional to the installer. The only thing to remember is that the sleeve has to be installed when using it on Pex pipe. On copper; it is optional. I ran into a situation where the sleeve actually went into the branch of a copper tee and restricted the flow. That is the only reason that I personally remove it when installing it on copper. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
hi.thanks for the video..i wanna take a connection to for inground sprinkler system from basement but i had flood in basement once so i am nervous to use sharkbite or any non solder pipe connection.what to you suggest ?
Hello yakoob yakoob, You are more than welcome! You should have no issues as long as the pipe is pushed into the fitting the proper distance. They will not blow off if installed correctly. If you are really nervous about it go soldered, but there is also crimped that works well. What type of pipe are you connecting to? Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance....Al
I believe you when you say soldering is best but I don't have the tools or much money so I followed the package (and your) instructions: I cut the pipe section with the hole out and used a metal file the best I could to clean and even the cut as best as possible. Hopefully it will hold for a while. My next project will be to follow your video and replace the toilet mechanisms (the toilet, like everything here, is ancient so I'm not looking forward to it). Again, many thanks.
The sharkbite fittings are great for repairing plumbing leaks. If you are planning on re-plumbing your house don't use the sharkbite fittings to join you pipe together but use pvc fittings instead. I just bought the short 3/4" sharkbite coupling to repair a leak under my house and the sharkbite coupling cost $7.95. I had to join pex pipe with cpvc pipe and the sharkbite is the best way to go for repairs.
Hello tegan71969; I am a little nervous about installing them in a wall cavity. I guess it doesn't matter where they are installed, but inside a wall I would pass on.I am a big fan of them for a short fix,but am still a solid connection plumber.I have changed moen through the hole on the front of an acrylic tub. They do work well, I can say that. It is your choice as far as the install goes,but I personally would not use them there. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with your repair! Al
If I have a project that requires a lot of fittings I solder what I can on a bench then put it in place and use sharkbite fittings to finish the job, especially if the in place section would require soldering near wood. Work great for me.
Hello Frank, Nice! Great to be able to solder on the bench. If a person is nervous soldering around wood; they are ideal for that situation. I still solder wherever possible myself, but Sharkbite do have their place. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
I have never heard of hot water being run to a fridge myself. It may have been done some where, but I have never seen it. If the hot water or cold water was running steady the line would not freeze, but where the dispenser will shut off and have no water flow, you will have a freezing issue and it wouldn't be pretty. Keep me posted! Al
Hello Joseph; You are more then welcome and thanks very much for the kind words! Thanks for commenting and I am glad you got along well with your repair! Al
Hi, I heard some contractors saying that since it's a rubber o-ring, it will get brittle in the presence of chlorine and leak in 3-4 years. What do you think?
@TheOldkid888 just used 3 gator bites ( 1 elbow ,2 straights ) on my Simer water pressure pump install , did 2 off site in vise solders ( used lead free small diameter solder) for it as well. back to report the gator bites holding 90 psi an working nicely ! happy old guy . cheers
I’ve installed caps on tub copper lines. No leaks, will I be safe from a flood for a week or too before I install new shower valve. I’m a little nervous. 2 days no problems ,
Hello Conductor John, MTH trains, As long as the caps are on all the way you should be good for years to be honest with you! No worries there! Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project in the future! Al
my house is over 100 years old i got a 5/8 brass pike that needs to be connected to a feed line for a kitchen sink ( nasty Old Pike a professional Plumber could not weld and the compression fitting he used leaks, can a Sharkbite do this? I was told that sharbites did not make the right size for this. But if so witch "part?" do I get? Thank you.
Hello Tony, You are more than welcome! As far as valves for under sinks and toilets, they do make them that go from 1/2" copper to 3/8th supplies where you add your speedway supply and attach it to your faucet/toilet. Hope this helps. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
What would be the right terminology or the name of the sharkbite with the shut off valve 1/2" to 3/8th supply line. Or better yet what store sells it, b/c have looked in Home D. and Lowes to no avail. Thanks for video.
Tony Garza So I stopped out at Home Depot yesterday to get the proper terminology for you. Stop 1/4 turn...1/2 by 38th OD. They are chrome in color not brass like the other fittings. Hope this helps... Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I am rebuilding a shower and moving the head over five inches so it will be centered, this will be behind tile. The person at home depot told me to use these instead of having to solder copper, would you not recommend this since this is a permanent fix?
Jared Hinde If you are moving pipe in behind a wall; I am still old school on that. I would have to solder the joints myself because of the location. I am not a fan of placing them in areas where they cannot be seen or gotten to. They are an exceptional product as far as I can tell. I have made several tests on them and they have passed with flying colours. I have used them as big as 2" in size and they have responded very well so far! They can be used for going from copper to pex, pex to cpvc and copper to cpvc. The bonus side of them is no soldering required and if there is some water in the line; it does not affect in the application. They are very easy to use. Turn the water off, drain the line and slide the fitting over the pipe. The Biggest thing to be may aware about is to make sure the pipe goes in the fitting completely. 1/2" goes in the fitting 7/8ths 3/4'' goes in the fitting 1 1/8th If you measure the pipe beforehand and mark it; you will be all set. One test that I did was put a number of fittings together and applied 275 pounds on it and it just grabbed that much harder with the weight. So if you do use them mark the pipe. I posted a video on it. Very impressive! Sorry for rambling. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
@aletubecordoba hello; If you are talking about a water cooled system; I would use it. if you are talking about the gas piping for a system then the answer would be no. I only use soldered fittings around an air conditioner on the waterlines and silver solder on the gas.. Just my preference. Thanks for commenting!!! Al
I'm thinking about doing the remodeling of bath shower set. Inside the wall, I'm going to replace the valve with the new one. Will the push and fit be okay without any leak at all? And is it better than crimp fitting?
If the outside diameter of the pipe is 5/8ths of an inch;a shark bite fitting will work.Outside diameter of copper is 5/8ths of an inch and sharkbite is made to join onto this size copper.It is up to you as to what you want there.Under a sink i would install 2 valves on the waterlines that feed the sink and reduce to 3/8th compression. You may have to go back to the closest threaded fitting and remove the piece of pipe and install a nipple and valve and then go with new pipe.G.L. let me know.
@jedediahbc Hey Jed; You are correct on the soldering of the pipe being cheaper, but most homeowners would be able to handle this repair themselves rather then the soldering approach especially if your water doesn't completely turn off. No worries with the sharkbite as a little water doesn't play any kind of a part in your repair. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I have an unusual situation where I need to know if a 3/4"-to-1/2" reducer (Sharkbite) allows water to move in both directions or whether water only flows from the 3/4" side to the 1/2" side. I would prefer a 3/4" hose bibb but have a 1/2" pex line if I install what I bought. I want to drop down a ceiling water line from a 3/4" copper pipe to a pex fitting, using a T with 3/4" ends and 1/2" drop down. I want to direct that 1/2" line to a hose bibb. I shopped for Sharkbite fittings because it's re-usable. My current water situation will change as we get this house together. For now, we have a 3/4" copper cold water line to supply the toilet through the ceiling. I want to cut into that to make a "faucet"/washing and watering station. (The house has a broken slab which will be fixed eventually but for now, I want to clean up the site and prep for the major work.) I figured to attach a garden hose adapter to the hose bibb, then a short garden hose with nozzle for washing and water supply. The hose bibb setup for 1/2" sure looked small. When I got it home, the garden hose adapter didn't fit the garden hose I wanted to use - it was too small. I'm not sure what to do next but if the "reducer" allows flow in both directions, I'd be happy to put a 3/4" hose bibb on that so I can attach a regular garden hose. How else might I do this? The local store does not have a 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" sharkbite fitting in stock. Should I just order it from Amazon? If I'm planning something that will blow up, please tell me, I'm just a DIYer, not a plumber! :D
Hello Mike; You are looking for a 3/4 by 3/4 by 1/2 tee. Once you get the tee in place; you will need a sharkbite female adaptor to attach your pex. I would place a valve on the line feeding the outside faucet as well just to be on the safe side. if you are looking for a 3/4 by 1/2 inch reducer; it will allow water to flow both ways. Sharkbite also makes a check valve that will allow water to flow just one way as well. I have not come across an outside faucet that will not take a female garden hose. Thanks for commenting and get back to me if you have any more questions. Al
Could these be used on rubber hose? The hose for the windshield washers on my car has a rubber into rubber joint that keeps pulling apart. The two pieces of hose are different diameters. I'd like to put in a permanent coupling to solve the problem.
Hello John; I don't think this is what you would be looking for to make the repair you are after. They do make plastic fittings that are reducing couplings. Big box stores would carry them. I know Watts makes some for sure. You can also use a compression fitting with plastic ferrules. The pipe has to be rigid for them to work proper. Sharkbite fittings are all brass and the smallest pipe size they except is 5/8th O.D. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with your repair! Al
@1978madrigal Hello; Sorry to say they don't make this to join galvanized pipe which is more then likely what you have there. You will have to go to the closest threaded fitting and cut the pipe a good distance from it and unthread the piece of pipe and thread a male adaptor and run the new piping.They make sharkbite in male to insert as well;so you would place teflon on the threaded fitting,thread it in and then insert your pipe in the end of the adaptor. Any questions-drop me a line. Al
Hello Andrew, I am going to make a video on a few smaller topics on Sharkbite in the near future. I will cover this topic at that time. The inside or the outside part of the copper pipe does not have to be cleaned before you install the sharkbite fitting. They recommend deburring the pipe before sliding the fitting over it. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
@atlantiscats Hello Cat; Glad you like it. They are very simple to use and work very well. I have used some in the past and have great luck with them. They do save a lot of time on any small repair around the house. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day!!! Al
Your videos have been very informative, but I have a question. My water heater literally just went out. I have 3/4 copper for the supply and outgoing lines. (Most of the joints were horribly soldered together in the prior installation.) As a homeowner, all of my plumbing experience has been with CPVC, so I'd like to cut out the bad joints and transition from the copper to CPVC with the new water heater. I have experience with Sharkbite style fittings, and compression fittings, in pneumatic applications at work. I only need one transition per pipe. If I do have a failure, I'd prefer a leak to a blow-out. So, which would you trust for a permanent water heater installation, Compression or Sharkbite?
Hello Ad Bec; Since Sharkbite have come out in this region; they have become very popular and I have put a great amount of faith in them. I have used them in sizes up to 2". Compression fittings have been around for many, many years, but I would use a Sharkbite adapter off the tank if you are looking for one fitting that will go from the tank to the copper. Sharkbite make flex connections that are 12'' and 18"s long and threads onto the tank and the other end slides over the copper. The female end that threads onto the tank has a gasket on it that makes the seal. The biggest thing to do when using the sharkbite is to make sure you have marked the copper pipe to make sure the fitting is on all the way. 1/2" pipe goes on 7/8ths of an inch. 3/4 pipe goes on 1 1/8th of an inch. If you make a mark just to be on the safe side before you slide it on the pipe; once you put it on; you will know that it is securely joined. I have seen several of these flex connections on tanks now. They make the flex connection with a valve on it as well for the shut-off to the tank. Do not put a shut off on the hot line leaving the tank as this is actually against code. These fittings are not cheap fittings to purchase, but very simple to use. Just purchase one with the shut-off and one without. Thanks for commenting and let me know how you get along! All the best!!! Al
TheOldkid888 Thanks so much for the timely reply, There are four straight couplers in the three feet of the exposed copper that is my supply line. (It looks like a drunk monkey soldered it together... and made a lot of mistakes. In fact, spatter from one of the solders actually corroded on the supply line and helped create a pinhole leak which I sealed with a pipe clamp about 3 years ago.) I'd really like to eliminate as many of those joints as I can, and either learn PEX or go with CPVC. (The house is almost 40 years old, so I'm not sure if the piping was put in during the recycled copper boom or not.) Either way, The water heater installation was secondary to the home, and was substandard by even my low grasp of plumbing. So, my intention is to go fairly far back in the 4 feet of exposed piping, and go with CPVC (cleaned and primed) for the elbows. I guess I'm asking for your opinion (no warranty implied :) ). We use pneumatic fitting at work, very much like the Sharkbite fittings for pressure up to 6 Bar (87 psi). For our high pressure 200 Bar (2900 psi), we use compression. I've watched several of your videos, and I understand the ease of installation with a Sharkbite, but I can properly put together a compression fitting (machinist/mechanic). If I handed you two pieces of pipe, one copper and one PEX or CPVC (not underground, and not exposed to freezing temps.), and I said to you leaks are Ok... It's catastrophic failure were shooting against (and noting that the installer has hooked up 200 Bar air lines with compression fitting, and 10 Bar lines with Sharkbite fittings) which one would you pick... for your home?
Hello Ad Bec; If you are planning on replacing the entire system; I would run the pex. I do this in all places that I am repiping. You can purchase the crimp rings at Home Depot along with fittings and the tool. The tool is under $100. If you do go this route; then make sure you get the copper rings and NOT the stainless steel system (Cinch). My sons live on the other side of the country and the copper ring crimp system is exceptionally popular out there and they have had great results. Like I had mentioned before; I have used sharkbite fittings up to 2" in size and have had no issues and they are working at 70 PSI. I prefer solid joints for most of my work, but there is a point where I have no choice, but to use a sharkbite fitting. I really haven't used a lot of CPVC on waterlines, but it is cheap and will last as well. You could use a sharkbite to go from copper to pex if you are not struck on soldering, but with your mechanical background; I would say you could make that soldered joint with no issues. A good friend of mine did an entire home over and used all sharkbite fittings which surprised me, since he has been in the trade for 40 years. The homeowner asked for it; so that was how he installed them using pex pipe. Never had an issue. I believe sharkbites work very well, but pex systems are more sound. Copper piping has been around for years, but pex is taking over. Remember to cover nay pex waterlines exposed to sunlight or fluorescent light as rays from them will break them down. Not common, but it does happen. Thanks for commenting and I hope this answers your question! Let me know what you think! Al
TheOldkid888 I just wanted to thank you for the videos, and your advice. I went with a variant of the Shark bite fittings, and everything went great. Thank you sir.
How about T'ing off a 3/4" in my attic and running to the master shower? Do you think I should sold or will shark bite hold for the next 20 years? Have a good weekend
+bphirm I am not sure how long the Sharkbite fittings will last. They come with a 25 year warranty. Big thing is to mark the pipe to make sure it goes into the fittings the proper distance. You should deburr the end of the pipe if it is copper to make sure the o-ring is not damaged. They are becoming very popular. We know that soldering will last that length of time. I take it you live in an area where freezing isn't an issue. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project. Al
+TheOldkid888 yeah, bay area of CA. My main issue is that I'm Teeing off of the 3/4" in my attic and it's not the easiest of spots to work at....tucked low and balancing on two floor joists. and the pipes don't have a lot of movement back and forth so that slip joint with a T looks amazing....but I might just suck it up and solder it...maybe I'll bring an air compressor hose up there to clear the water out so it won't drip on me...thanks for your help
***** Not the greatest location for sure, but not impossible. Just have to plan it out well before you tackle it. If you use a long 3/4 slip joint coupling and a Sharkbite tee it should work for you. You are going to need at least 3/4" of movement regardless to install a 3/4 copper tee. Remember to mark the pipe with a marker if you do use the Sharkbite. The pipe goes into the fitting 1 1/8th inches on a 3/4 fitting and 7/8ths of an inch on 1/2. The compressor could definitely make the project a little easier by removing the water laying in the pipe so you can solder. With any luck shutting the main water off and opening the faucets below will drain most it. Clean your pipe where you are going to solder the tee into before you cut it. This will save you some time. Clean off a good section just to be safe. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Let me know how you get along. Al
P.S. If soldering in the attic be sure to bring a spray bottle of water just to spray the area after soldering. Attics get exceptionally dry. Best of luck! Al
I have used a Shark Byte about 7 years back in the ground & so far no problem. I have also used in my slab leak about 4 years back where ever I had dry solder. These are now approved behind walls also per manufacturer. I have seen 10" fresh water plastic pipes being put underground & the thing that seals it is a big O ring in the bell shaped area. This was in year 2000 at Boeing company in Long Beach Calif.
Hello Manohar Menghani, Since I made this video I did a few tests and they worked out well. I have read where they can be used underground and behind walls. They are ideal for places where water is an issue. I try and stick to soldered joints wherever possible, but I have used these with no issues. I have used them as big as 2" in size. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Floyd, It is not necessary to remove the plastic sleeve when installing the fitting on copper pipe. I recommend it because I ran into an issue a number of years ago where I found the sleeve had been pushed into the branch of a tee and cut the volume way back. But it is not necessary to remove it. The manufacturer leaves it up to the installer to make the choice. I am pretty certain that most people leave it in place from what I gather. To remove it you simply reach in with a pair of needle nose and pull the sleeve out. REMEMBER the sleeve should never be removed when installing it on Pex or CPVC. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
What if you don't remove the sleeve when using copper? My dad used some in copper with them still in and now they're berried in the wall/ceiling. We were going to solder all the connections which we've done many times before over the years but a Home Depot associate showed him these and showed him how to use them. He never showed/told him to remove the inserts if using copper. They do work well and are fast. We only had to redo 1 connection because it ended up binding going in and leaking.
@whiskeyandashes Hey Whiskey; Glad everything worked out for you. They are very handy and I am hearing more and more positive things about them all the time. They have not been out for many years, but are ideal for a quick fix as far as I am concerned. Thanks for commenting and have a great day!!! Al
If you use a Shark Bite fitting on copper and the pipe is a bit tarnished, do you need to buff it up or sand it so that it is shiney before installing the fitting?
Hello mrtodd3620; If the pipe is only tarnished; you can use a sharkbite on it without buffing or shining it. If it has any mineral build on it; it should be removed with some sand cloth or steel wool before you apply the sharkbite fitting. Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Ok now I’m confused with all the comments I’m replacing my bath tube faucet that is done in copper. 1/2 inch pipe so do I take out the sleeve or leave it . A clear answer without all the yes and no options would be helpful
Hello James, You can leave the sleeve in place. I found an issue with the sleeve on a branch of a tee. Since then I remove all sleeves when installing them on copper. IT MUST be left in place for pex and CPVC. Removing the sleeve is up to the individual according to the manufacturer when installing them on copper only. Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Hello Francis, I am pretty certain they are good for 200 psi at 200 degrees Fahrenheit. I have used them at seventy psi and had no issues at all. I keep saying this often. Be sure to mark the pipe before you install the fitting. Each size has a different depth. If the fitting is on the pipe properly you will have no issues. I did a test where I applied 275 pounds onto a few couplings and pipe and they held on very well! Here is a video that I made if you are interested...The latter part of the video is where I did the weight test. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zsegT_2WAj8.html Hope it helps! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
@RStrapple Hello there; I couldn't agree more.What I say in the video is a quick fix as I wouldn't use them as a prermanent thing,but as soon as someone hears something they don't like that is where they stop viewing. One other person mentioned about they should only be used on poly pipe,but if they had done a little homework;the outside diameter of poly is not the same as copper or pex. Not a lot of people like change, but that is how it is. Tks for commenting and enjoy your holidays. Al
So, should I use a manifold for different places such as kitchen and bath. Hot water? Can it couple directly to the water heater or should I use a typical connect and conect that to the pex?
Hello Daniel; You will not get any smell or taste from the pex pie. Flush it after you install it for a few minutes are will be all set. Sharkbite fittings do work quite well and if you are installing pex; they are even easier to work with then copper. Just a matter of cutting the pipe and adding your fitting. make sure there is a plastic sleeve in the fitting before you install it on the pipe as this is to go into the pipe to prevent expansion and contraction. As far as running a manifold that is entirely up to you. They have become very popular and it allows constant volume throughout the house if more then one fixture is being run. If you have great water pressure and a pressure balancing faucet in your shower; a manifold may not be required, but again it is up to you. As far as your hot water tank goes; if it a gas or oil fired water heater you CANNOT run the pex directly into the tank. I keep it a minimum of 36 inches and usually run copper up to the floor joists and then join my pex from there. Some manufacturers allow pex to be directly installed into and out of ELECTRIC hot water tanks. Viega being one of those. I have seen other types of pex installed directly into electric HWH as well, but it CANNOT be installed directly into an oil or gas HWH. Sharkbite make flex connections that attach directly onto the top of the tank. They are 18 inches long and that is the required distance I believe before pex can be added to the piping off of an oil or gas water heater. They come with a shut off installed on them as well. Sharkbite is about as easy as it gets when it comes to installing water lines and they have become very popular with great success. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Thanks for the great reply. I am an electrical guy myself and plumbing is not my strong point. I am thinking of the shark bite, but the older crimping type is good too. I will hit the house with it this weekend. I am blessed with a gravity furnace in the basement. I am concerned with the pex being too close to it. It is a hot room in the winter. Lol, the old guy before us has clothesline in the basement for that reason. Thanks for the great reply.
Hello Daniel; If you clamp the pex pipe in the furnace room on every joist or when going beside them; every 18 inches you should have no problems. Been in a few of those rooms for sure. Ideal for drying outdoor gear. I prefer the crimp ring over the clinch system. Quite popular now and the tool is not overly expensive. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Thanks for the reply. I am getting ready to do the job. I am going to use the crimp. My big problem is the old cast iron soil pipe. It is cracked on a horizontal length. I have to patch it. We have no idea why it backed up and froze. It is clear to the street. Had it videoed. All clear????? Any patching you would recomend. It is for the toilet. I can put the bath and sinks down a second drain as I have three openings I can use. The toilet is the big problem. I hav tried to find a plumber but here in Detroit they 1) will not come out. 2) charge hundred to just look at it, I get a guy has to make money, then say they do not do soil pipe. I have been clipped twice. Any pex tool you would recommend?
Hello Daniel; The crimped system is the way I would suggest for you to go. It is very popular and the tool is reasonable. The pex tools I use are considerably more expensive then that one. They come in a set and the cost is exceptionally higher. Very odd for stack to crack if the line is clear. It may be an age thing where the cast has become thin and began to leak on the seam rather then froze and split. This is common in old cast iron pipe. It will have to be replaced eventually, but you if you can get it dry; you can use a two part epoxy that will work for a while. How long is the split in the pipe? Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance! Al
Hey thanks for the video. I have heard about shark bite but never actually saw one until now. There are other products out there which function the same and do do the same thing. BUt nice to see the video all the same.
Hello jchambers2586; Hate to break the news to you, but they do not fit galvanized pipe. It would be nice if they did, but they have not come out with that style of fitting yet. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
