Ok I’m always confused with the option of the 3 sets you guys offer and what they come with in the box…let say I want the most expensive one you have….why is that better and if I can change discs how many discs does it have?
I just got the Pro yesterday, here's the difference - Cruise: cheapest one, only has a 20° angle block, and the grinding and honing wheels are not replaceable. HORL 2: Mid tier, 15 and 20° sharpening, grinding and honing wheels are replaceable. Pro - Top tier, 15 and 20° sharpening, replaceable grinding and honing wheels, and the center mechanism has a gear system in it that triples the spin speed. The same push that would cause a 360° on a HORL 2 will cause 1080° rotation on a pro.
So I purchased a horl2 and it did not come with the 3k and 6k discs. The horl 2 is wood and has 2 colors. I think the cruise is aluminum and has fixed non replacable discs. I have not used the pro however i think i should have gone that route. It basically rotates the discs 3 times for ever one time you roll it. It also comes with the 3k and 6k discs you already needs to pay an extra 130 plus tax for.
@@MrBigangry the pro does not come with the 3k and 6k disks, that's the limited edition "pro black" that they just came out with. The 2 Pro comes with the diamond grinding disk and the ceramic honing disk, neither of which have a disclosed grit. To get the 3k, 6k, and strop you would have to buy the Premium Sharpness Set. The only real difference between the 2 and the 2 Pro are wood vs metal bodies, and that the Pro has an interior gear system that makes it rotate 3x as much in a single movement.
Hi, we are sorry to hear that. The first sharpening always requires a bit of patience, as the knife must first "learn" the sharpening angle. Depending on how you sharpened and maintained your knife previously, this can take more or less time. You can check out the process in the following video: Sharpening European chef's knives with the HORL 2 sharpener Depending on the condition, the steel of your knife, and the blade geometry, this process can take up to 1-5 minutes per side, and per disc. If the knife is a very sturdy, stainless steel knife like most classic European knives, we recommend the 20° grinding angle. For delicate and very hard blades such as Damascus knives, we recommend the 15° grinding angle. If the sharpening takes too long, we also recommend changing to the 20° sharpening angle. To check whether the knife is fully ground in, the Marker Pen mMethod helps. If the line is no longer visible, the knife is ground in :) If you need further help, please let us know the result after the marker pen method, as well as the angle you have used, the time and please send us a photo of the knife edge. If you have any issues, please contact our support team: info@horl.com Kind regards from the Black Forest
The angle wedge needs to be slightly longer as in more surface connection to the blade and taller as well. Just slightly would do. There needs to be a way to get the tips better. The price isnt that bad however the 3000 and 6000 should be included. I was disgusted when I found out they werent. It is a great tool with pros and cons. Needs a bit of tweeking. Time will tell if I feel ripped off.
Hi MrBigangry, Thank you for your feedback. We assume your statement refers to the grinding of very long or even high knives. For long knives, we recommend grinding in two steps (first one half of the knife and then the second half). With very high knives, you can place a cutting board under the HORL and thus reach the corresponding height of the knife. We wish you sharp knives all the time and lots of fun sharpening your knives. Many greetings from the Black Forest🌲 Your HORL team
@@stevel4997 They work great. How about quit making up crap if you haven't used them? My knives are sharp as any other sharpener I've used and this is way easier.
El producto viene en una caja con una presentación excelente, con detalles muy cuidados. Los materiales son de muy buena calidad y terminación, también. El resultado que se obtiene, no es el que venden quienes promocionan el producto (cosa que, también, he de reconocer que hacen muy bien). Bronca y decepción, en igual magnitud, es lo que siento por haber pagado un precio que hace pensar que es un producto realmente "diferente". Arrepentido de haberlo adquirido.
Hi and thanks for the message. We are very sorry that you are not satisfied with our product. The first sharpening of the knife can take some time, as the knife first has to "learn" the new angle. After that it goes much faster. We recommend the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x4L2hbZexRM.html. If you're still not satisfied or have any problems, please write us an email and we'll help you. Greetings from Freiburg.
Hi, we are sorry to hear that. Can you send us an email or a DM in order for us to better understand how to support and help you achieve impressive results 🔪? Kind regards from Freiburg 🌲
No resultó ser lo que esperaba. La calidad de la presentación es excelente, pero el resultado que obtengo en cuchillos de diferentes materiales, no es el esperado. Bronca y decepción, al mismo tiempo, por el alto precio que tiene y la expectativa que genera. Una lástima.
Hi and thanks for your message and interest in our products! We also ship to Australia. Please write an email to: info@horl.com with your desired products. Greetings from Freiburg :)
In the link below you'll find a more in depth explanation of when to use 15° or 20°: www.horl.com/us/en/blog/15-or-20 Kind regards from the Black Forest🌲
Hi! Bigger knives like cleavers for example, can be sharpened with the HORL sharpener as well, you simply heighten the sharpener with the help of a cutting board, place your knife on the magnetic angle support and sharpen your knife as usual. Best regards from Freiburg
Is the angle tru? All blades has different thickness and width. If i use it on my 7mm thick blade will the angle stay tru at 20°? If i use it on my boning knife, i will have to make sure the blade is higher up so the edge is expos, to be sharpening,... but wont that Change the angle by a couple degrees? Having fixed angle IMO doesnt do for me... Thickness and width of blade will change the angle by more than you think... I rather have the option to adjust my angle. Maybe make a angle adjustable block?
Ciao e grazie per il tuo messaggio. Un angolo di affilatura costante è sempre importante. Per lame molto sottili, si consiglia di affilare il coltello a 15 gradi. Tanti saluti da Friburgo :)
Worked great on my stainless steel knives, but when i tried it on my carbon steel bunka it completly fucked up the edge wich is now full of small 'jacks' all over.....
You realize that you roll a flat plate straight against a curved blade. You know geometry right? You know what will happen to a curved blade on the long run don't you? You're inevitably gonna grind its geometry off. It's just mathematics - there is no other outcome. This would work fine for a Nakiri or some other cleavers. But curved blades will be ruined after some time of using this setup.
Hi Clockwork Ape, There are different grinds that are used for knives. The flat grind is the most commonly used one for kitchen knives, but a convex grind, which is created by grinding on the machine, is also often seen. Our HORL Sharpener provides the popular flat grind. If the knife is sharpened once with the HORL and you continuously use the same grinding angle, it is the most gentle method for the knife. Should you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us at any time. 🙂
@@horl1993 he is right. He doesn't mean the curve of the grind but the curve of the blade . Eventually the knife will become completely flat like a sheeps foot style blade.
@@user-pt3tf9hp2r In this case I invite you to watch this video : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9WD3NhWjYlg.html You can see more clearly that the sharpener does not roll straight against the blade but follows its shape, so that not too much material is removed from the blade
