Have you tried sanding the surface once the ground has cured to get more of a hot press surface? I've done this in a Moleskine non-watercolor journal (the Art Plus kind) and got pretty good results. I've even tried making my own black ground by adding black gouache but the White of the ground just makes it grey no matter how much black gouache I add. I encourage you to try sanding it before painting and do a follow up video to tell us your thoughts!
That's a great idea! You airway know you like the art work and you have a great template! Thank you so much for sharing. I think this will really help me practice.
I use this on little canvases and canvas panels. It's so fun! And you ever see those wood cut shapes at michaels? I use this ground on there and paint on it. The first time I used it I only let it dry for an hour and that was a mistake! The ground became paste like again. Now I just prep a whole bunch at once.
Just an observation, I'm guessing your drying time on the white product was extended because you didn't give the ground a chance to fully cure. Even though the surface was dry, there's likely residual moisturize. This would become even greater on a completely nonabsorbant surface like glass. I wasn't aware of the black ground, but it would be perfect for metallic and iridescent paints since most look best on s dark, esp. black background. I like watercolor ground for mixed media journals.
Thanks for making this demo. Very informative. I toured the Golden factory recently and bought some of the QoR stuff afterwards. I just put a layer down on scrap wood to test it myself for a potential collaboration with a woodworker. Never occurred to me to use it as whiteout on a painting!
Wow! Who knew? Thanks for taking the time to review this product. I have an Iona journal at home--expensive--that when I had it made, I thought I was going to do nothing more than write in it. I almost had it bound using watercolor paper, but decided to use hemp. Well, now...I want to combine my watercolor art with stories. This product is going to let me do this!! I'm so excited!
I've used Golden Absorbent Ground to prep canvas and wood to except watercolor. Still wanting to try the DS and the QoR (specifically the cold press). The GAG is really smooth, like gesso, and I've used a brush to apply it, just takes some extra cleaning.
Very interesting. I have experimented with her so on canvas, then watercolored on that. A much different experience than on watercolor paper. But fun.😄
Hello Meridith, The timing was perfect with my curiosity with those as i just bought a titanium white DS ground. I didn't expect that it was that simple to really do watercolor over the black ground! Did you put white gouache first? How was the mixing process? We see the result, but would be very curious to see the process! Thanks for the video, it was nice that you give a try on bunch of differents surfaces.
Hi there! Thank you for your comment and sorry for the delay in my response! When I was painting the samples on the black watercolor ground, I did not paint a layer of white gouache first. Instead, I mixed normally with my regular artist watercolors and then added the white gouache to the color I was planning to use and then painted on the ground. You are pretty much limited to pastels if you do it like this, since if you add the white gouache to say, a magenta, it'll turn out to be this pastel purply-pink. If you add it to green it'll become minty. The white gouache mixed great with my watercolors, it didn't resist or separate out from my mixes. Hope this helps a bit and thank you so much for watching! Have a lovely day! :) Best, Meredith
Sherlyn Talactac Harrison from what I understand, it behaves similar to gesso, but is designed specifically to prep the painting surface for watercolor paints. For example, watercolor don't behave nicely on canvas (usually) but if you prep the canvas with this first, it would be like painting on watercolor paper. Hope that helps!
Dear Witty Gritty, I have a question on grounds and surfaces. on a recent Podcast with Steve Mind of Watercolor, Ownings Art and Stuart (unsure of the name as only caught a piece of it a watercolorist and framer)Stuart mentioned that he uses matte board to draw on . I recently got a lot of board offcuts from my local framer and I unsure if it is matte board or mount board. My questions are 1.Is there any way to test if a board is acid free or not? I have seen some pens advertised but there are post that state that these pens are unreliable 2.If an unarchival board is primed and coated with a surface such as watercolor ground, pastel gesso, normal gesso can this make the surface archival? 3.Can I use a non acid free surface to mount canvas on?For example sticking the entire canvas down with acid free glue to the matte board? Will the non acid free matte board damage the canvas? 4.Can I use the non acid free surface as a mounting board to an acid free surface such as pastel paper or watercolor paper . Or will the watercolor paper, pastel paper be compromised from mounting to a non acid free surface . Please note I will mount with acid free glue.? 5. Can I use the non acid free surface as just a paper stretcher for canvas?
1. I cant help you there, it's usually stated by the company if it is acid free, only time will tell for sure. 2. It depends on what you want to do, but the over all object is still not archival and will degrade over time with acid build up underneath all the primer (gesso, ground, etc.). 3. Because you're mounting on non archival board it will still degrade over time as stated by the first point. And adding adhesive directly to a canvas can still damage the original piece if you ever want to take it off the mount, regardless of it being acid free. If you're using archival board with acid free adhesive it should theoretically be fine, although I'm not sure how the interaction between the top layer of paint and the adhesive underneath will play out. 4. Nonarchival paper/matte board will still compromise the paper you glue on top of it regardless of the adhesive used. 5. I dont understand what you're asking. Over all if you want an archival piece and really preserve what you're working with you have to work with acid free/archival throughout the process. Any source of acid will compromise the entirety of work. Sorry if I'm late, just kind of stumbled upon this
I wonder if this ground is silicone glue based, with maybe some filler (talc? cornstarch) thrown in. Mmm something to research. Thanks for the tute, very interesting and so very thorough!
Hello :) I have a question for you- Last Christmas and over the past few months I've bought about 15 different tubes of Windsor and Newton artist grade watercolours, and I have experimented mixing them together, particularly my primary colours. I have found that as the mixed paint dries the colours separate, which I obviously don't want. Is this just a characteristic of watercolours, or am I doing something wrong? I was really surprised when I found this happening because I am using artist grade paint. Thank you so much, your videos are so well done and I really enjoy them.
Hi there! Thank you so much for your comment, that's a great question. It basically boils down like this; some watercolors (the colors themselves, not the brands) are classified as sedimentary, because their pigment is largely composed of crushed and powdered minerals. Sedimentary watercolors often dry with a lot of granulation; which is just the technical term for the floating pigment pieces actually being visible. Ultramarine Blue is probably the most common highly-granulating color, and because of this can sometimes settle and separate a bit in both palette and on paper, which is important to keep in mind when using it as a primary. When it comes to watercolors in general, no you're not doing anything wrong. Artist grade paints actually tend to granulate more because they are made of the highest quality natural pigments. Many student grade paints are made with synthetic pigment or dyes. This is something that is just a characteristic of watercolors, but not of all watercolors. Don't just assume your paint is going to granulate. My recommendation would be to swatch out all of your colors and observe which ones seem to granulate. Since their individual pigment pieces are larger, (still very small, just larger in comparison) they can appear to separate from another color you mix them with. The more water there is in a color you mix with a granulating color, the easier it is for it to separate. It's got room to go somewhere when there's a lot of water. Another good strategy would be to swish your mixed color every time you dip back into it to keep the mixed pigment suspended. Don't give it the time to separate out. :) Phew, sorry for the super long reply! Hope this helps a bit and thank you so much for watching! Have a lovely day! :) Best, Meredith
I use a transparent gesso By primal Art Basics o. My coloring book pages - that gesso so feels like Hey cold press paper - just got to Daniel Smith transparent and good to know that it does not feel like the cold press paper but I just applied it with a partner to two coloring book pages and I will let it cure for a night and I will watercolor and if you like I will let you know how it came up for me thank you so much for your information I really appreciated this video
Hi there! Sorry for the delay in my response! Yes, you should be good to go if you wanted to apply watercolor ground to drawing paper. The watercolor ground stuck to everything I tried it on & the watercolor paint acted very similar on the ground to how it acts on regular watercolor paper. I would probably avoid using a textured watercolor ground though, like the cold-press Qor one featured in the video, as it might add too much bulk to a standard piece of drawing paper. Here is a link to a smoother ground that I think would work better for what you mentioned: www.dickblick.com/items/02126-1237/ Hope that helps and thank you so much for watching! Have a lovely day! :) Best, Meredith
Hi there! Thank you so much for your comment, that's a great question! I would probably seal these pieces with a spray UV archival sealer. The brand Krylon makes a good one. But even that wouldn't make them washable. Being watercolors, you would always be in danger of the paint running when exposed to water. So, If you really need to be able to wash what you make, I personally would probably get a piece of glass or plexiglass to fit right on top of my painting. That way, the surface could be wiped clean and the painting would never have to be disturbed. This would also protect it from dust and grime if it was something that would be getting frequent use. :) Hope this helps a bit and thank you so much for watching! Have a lovely day! Best, Meredith
So hypothetical scenario: Let's say you want to paint on a mug. You tape off a square and apply the ground in the square. Do you think the ground that ended up over the tape would break away from the rest okay once you remove the tape? Does that makes sense? lol In other words, could you get a straight edge of ground with masking tape?
Hi there! Sorry for the delay in my response! Great question. What I would probably do is mask off a square, apply the ground within the square and then remove the tape while the ground was still fairly wet. Once that ground dried it was ON there. Lol. I think this would be the best strategy for getting a straight line. It also might help if you were using a non-textured ground. Here is a link to the Qor version of watercolor ground that is more like hot-press paper: www.dickblick.com/items/02126-1237/ Another idea would be to just apply the watercolor ground to your mug without a tape border and just feather the edges of your watercolor ground patch with a brush to blend better with the mug's surface. A different look, but it might be easier. :) Hope this helps and thank you so much for watching! Have a lovely day! Best, Meredith
Very interesting. Though, I am wondering why one should make all these efforts to use watercolors where it would be ideal to use other types of paints...
You can't paint on all those surfaces with most paints and get good results. Most will run, smear, or simply not stick. The purpose of the ground is to provide a 'surface' that usually does not accept paint, and make the item usable in ways it is normally able to be used. With the ground, I imagine that the surface created would also accept acrylic, oil, and maybe colored pencil for the smoother textured products.
