Always enjoy your 48 vids. I recently watched the one you did on adding aftermarket pegs and having to use an angle grinder on the clevis. Ended up doing the exact same thing. Worked great!
A good technique while working with man-made vitreous fiber is to wet it down with water. This will help to minimize the amount of fibers that are released. Good on you for wearing a respirator as well.
Shocked at how well those pipes actually turned out with the rattle can. Your videos are great and bike looks awesome. Hope to see many more vids from you.
+floramakes Hey, so far I've ridden around 1000 miles in some quite wet roads and unfortunately I have had paint coming off the top of the headers before I wrapped over them. The exposed ends are ok but there is some pitting. If I did it again I'd look to use the Rustoleum high temp paint which I hear is better (unfortunately couldn't get it in the UK). Will show the pipes in a future video! RD
I found it necessary to bake the pipes in my BBQ grille using the three step process of 250, then 400, then 600 degrees Fahrenheit for the recommended time with the on the can instructions in order to properly seal the paint from head to exhaust exit. I tried using the temp. sensor on the grille and the baking process failed and started flaking off. After sanding and re-painting I baked the pipes using a laser temperature gun making sure the actual part was the correct tempurature for the correct amount of time (per instructions) and it turned out AWESOME. Just starting the bike and running it did not seal the paint properly to make if fully sealed and therefore chemical and wear/scratch resistant as it can be. Hope this info. helps any of you who tried this without getting the results you were looking for.
great info, thanks. it's one of those situations where it's a lot of hassle to follow the steps properly but if you don't then the results don't follow. Appreciate the share 👍🏻
Thanks bud. unfortunately it didnt hold up too well on the headers (although wrapped now) I gather the rustoleum high temp sprays are the db's so will give them a go next time.
Great video, Great bike! I'm about to sand back and re-paint the headers on my Bonneville T120 Black, got the same Matt paint as you used here, but hadn't really considered Primer? My feeling was I'm only really saning off to key the surface, as such I can spray direct to the keyed surface?
Thanks! My learning was to really remove any rust before spraying. Unsure if the primer makes a huge difference, I imagine it may help a bit. Good luck 👍
Riding Digital I'm thinking vivid black, just like the rest of the bike. Actually looking at your bike gave me the idea of getting a 3.3 gal tank. So thank you!
How well did your VHT hold up? I'm currently painting mine for the second time using Rustoleum High Heat because VHT failed me within months. Same process, same heat treat.
The paint job looks great, thanks for sharing! Can you please tell us exactly what primer and paint you used? Did you put clear lacquer over (before curing)?
Cheers 👊 Pipes held up pretty well over the years after, except around the header where it peeled pretty soon after, although I think more sanding prep was needed there.
Great vid, but I'm reading a ton of people saying not to use vht primer, go straight to the black header paint. Apparently primer causes flaking... Very counter intuitive I know
You did this job in 2017. Many people, including myself, are asking you how this paint "held up" because many of us have tried this same VHT Ceramic based Paint, only to find that after a few months it CHIPS LIKE CRAZY. Can you PLEASE reply to confirm your Post-Usage experience with the longevity of this ceramic paint. (I must tell you, I was just as happy with it after I initially used it. Then a squirrel dropped and acorn from the tree above (about a 20 foot drop), and that thing took a wicked chip out of the paint). Then the "windy riding chipping" started. Then the "bare touch with a tool takes out a chip," etc, etc, etc.... I've concluded CERAMIC paint is the problem. It is "CERAMIC" which is naturally BRITTLE. However, inside the hood of a car s a pretty safe place for ANY "heat Paint" which is to say that I am stating is the reason why VHT High Heat Ceramic paint will _always_ fail. After VHT Ceramic is (truly) fully cured, it becomes FRAGILE CERAMIC. Anyway, PLEASE reply with your "post-painting" experience. MANY people are asking you about it and the lack of an answer is kind-of speaking for itself. (Thanks --Gregg)
Hi Gregg, thanks for flagging, I've replied to a very large number of comments querying this over the years, but not every one particuarly recently as I've got a lot on. The short answer is not too well, rust came through at the header but I wrapped them anyway and the tips where heat was less extreme it was fine. No chipping issues. I'll post a general comment with an update, bit if you look through many of the comments querying it have an answer. Cheers
Hey man, nice video and nice bike! How has the paint held up? I'm restoring a Ducati and the pipes are in rough shape. Thanks for being thorough and informative!
it didn't hold up too well on the headers but to be fair I could have sanded more corrosion off. I've heard the Rustoleum VHT is better but couldn't get it here. Good luck!
Always wear gloves and a respirator when messing with exhaust wrap tape! It isn't asbestos but a form of fiberglass. How does the paint wear? Did it crack or change color?
Yes id like to know the answer to this. I painted mine without using the primer and within 10k miles it looked cloudy and heat worn again. Wonder if this ended up the same.
thanks bud, turned out well, held up ok, flaking around the headers pretty early but most likely my lack of sanding prep there. I'd try Rustoleum next time I think
Hi I'm planning to repaint my buell blast exhaust with the vht gloss black two questions. . First the bike is being winterized and the exhaust won't be put back on till sprig.... Will it need the clear coat being a gloss. . Second I know it needs to be heat cycled to cure and I was planning to wrap the header section will I have to do that after it's heat cycled or can it be done now then heat cycled all at once
Looking good Mate. Did it hold up over time ? I’m waiting on some Helix Racing Ceramic Paint for my Vance & Hines 2 into 1 pipes. Chalky looking up by the Heads. Hopefully it holds up .
Really good job! I have any questions that are not in the comments: I have 2 chrome mufflers, no rusty, in very good conditions, is necessary the coat of prime? Is necessary to pass sandpaper in my situation if I use the coat of prime? Have you wait any minutes between one paint can and another? And between one coat of paint and another? Very thanks!!!
Your exhaust pipes have turned out very good, they look a lot better without that ugly exhaust wrap, I never did understand why so many Harley-Davidson owners wrap their exhausts with that stuff.
Hey mate, 3 questions 1 - What grade sand paper did you use? 2 - What liquid did you rub the shields / exhausts with prior to applying primer 3 - Which specific VHT products did you use and in what order? My bikes arrived and I'm looking to do this exact project over a weekend asap
hey; 1) 120grit then 180grit 2) Alcohol decreaser (ie no water content) 3) grey primer, paint, satin coat all VHT High temperature spray paint (can't remember exact name but you can see the can when I hold it in front in the camera). Good luck, get as much rust off as you can, it's all in the prep. RD
haha hell yeah man ! I JUST bought a 48 and the pipe has some wear and tear, got the guy downn on price because of it - feels great now knowing I'll be able to clean it up for under 100 bucks! hahaha AWESOME VIDS DUDE! *hits subscribe!*
I’m going to attempt this on my trask turbo system on my 07 Harley vrod I had a small crack on the mounting tab but think I can try coating. I’m wrinkle blacking the motor over since it’s been 7 years since I did it and still looks great but new pipe paint might as accent the motor as well
Why did you have the new wrap there if you weren't going to use it. Your pipes do look good (for now) Why did you go without wrap... Didn't you like it for some reason?? Thx for the video
Thanks 👍🏻 I left it overnight before starting it up, it's lasted fine except a little bit of peeling by the header, but I could put that down to not sanding enough rust back. Good luck!
honestly I'm not sure how essential it is, the finish I used was satin and there are Matt finishes too - the logic was hopefully it would make it more resistant to scratches and stone chips!
Good video just lacked a little info on the materials used. Other than that, well done. On a side note, assuming that is an air cooled sporty you might want to do some research on idling an air cooled Harley. John Maxwell (certified Harley mechanic) talks about it on his channel. Not good for them at all my man. Ride it or leave it plugged up to a tender until you can ride. Engine damage is a real thing for air cooled engines. Hope this helps. Keep the knees in the breeze! 🤙
I’m looking to buy a 48. Or roadster. I’m in AUS and strangely, most I see that are of this vintage or certainly 2016- to 18 have got lots of solid looking surface rust. Pegs area and side strands almost with no paint on them (the arm no the area in contact with the ground obviously). I’m just concerned at how quickly the metals deteriorate on fairly new bikes. Is this your experience and is this a Harley thing. I’ve owned nice BMW sport bikes and have always garaged but have ridden in rain etc and never the amounts of rust, kind of is the only thing turning me off them.
I heard the new name for the HD is CD Charlie Davidson, but we all know HD hasn't been built by or with American parts since the 2000s ,all the clothes are made in Taiwan.
cheers! Paint started peeling at the header quite soon after, I'd sand more here next time. I wrapped the pipes soon after but the paint on the exposed tips held up for years
Hey I’ve had the paint for a while but been skeptic on doing it. Seen some pipes flake after they tried curing it. How’s it been holding up since then?
Panicked on day 2 as a bit of flaking on the headers, but then I wrapped them which covered all bar the final third and that's held up fine. I think it's all in the prep tbh and I probably should have done a better job of getting all the rust of for a better result
+Balisong 5891 Hi! mine is an Arlen Ness Magnaflow Lowdown exhaust, yes I did need to use a tuner (used a V&H FP3). It was unridable without tuning, backfired all the time. I think with any stage 1 (air intake and exhaust change) you'll need some form of tuning 👍 Good luck! RD
a few days in paint started peeling from the headers, so either couldn't take the heat or didnt prep enough. wrapped the pipes since so only have the final 6 inches exposed now but they've held up fine
no I waiting a day then ran 2 heat treatment cycles, I would follow the instructions on your can tho for best results...its not worth short cutting them only to have to do it all again!
@@ridingdigital thanks for replying , i was soo frustrated i cant find any bigger tyre for my " 2008 nightster 1200 xln " , it turn out my front wheel is 19" i believe , so i guess to be able to put bigger tyre is by putting 16 or 17" wheel i guess ???
Hey how did the pain fair over the months after this was done. Did the paint stay on? Any paint coming off at the exit point of the engine, on the first bend etc? My experience with VHT has been varied, it totally flaked off one time I did it on a car header, but then stayed on another time I did it on another car - both with what I would class as very good prep before hand. Interested to know how it lasted on your bike as I am about to do a Kawasaki headers, and about to select a paint, and heading towards VHT again, but not 100% sure. Thanks
+James B Hey, so I wrapped the pipes about 2 weeks after painting them, so I can only see the final few inches of pipe at the tips which is holding up fine. The paint right by the header had already started to flake before I wrapped them (showed it in my wrapping video) - If I could go again I'd try the high temp Rustoleum which seems to have better reviews. couldn't get it in the UK though! Good luck with yours. RD