How to vinyl wrap a curved surface like a mouse, helmet or side mirror 

Yea the same goes for me I've been watching the biggest wrapping channels for weeks trying to get the basics of wrapping complex objects and she literally explains it better then every single one of them because she puts a complex task in simple terms meaning she made it so much easier to understand what the vinyl is doing when we stretch or heat it up vs others not really going into that but instead they explain why their doing. W.e. they're doing on a specific item but not explaining how that would apply to other items like she's doing here very well!!!

No lie!

A good point to add to your techniques of breaking the memory you could also instead pre shrink the vinyl then stretch it this was your technically stretching the vinyl back to it's original state when stretching and this works because almost all vinyls will shrink from their memory state a little bit not a ton but it works and it's a nice little trick.

You are right, pre-shrinking is another way to do it. It works best with polymeric (calendared) vinyls though as cast doesn't shrink much from its "delivery" state. I will try to make another video on that technique, too. I just can't find the time.... but I will :D

​@@vinyl-witch Subscribed. Because, like so many others have said, you actually explain how vinyl works. Thank you so much. I didn't think I need to subscribe but your content should have waaay more subscribers. You really put the "pro" channels to shame. Thanks again

I am glad it helped you. My motorcycle needs a new wrap, too. And those parts are usually quite a challenge indeed. I noticed in a lot of videos people talk about how vinyl shrinks but don't show it really in "action". I am planning to do more with other pieces and different scenarios just need the time to do it.

Very useful tutorial not only just shows how to wrap an object but also shows how the physics of how vinyl works this is exactly what beginners like me need. I will be subscribing keep it up!

Post heating is required if you stretch it ,, other wise it will shrink back to it's original size post heat needed is 90 Degrees Celsius minimal ,, if you are wrapping a plastic item it will shrink over time ,, not sure but post heating Plastic might melt it

It is all about practice. The more you work with it the more you get insights how to deal with it the best way.

I am happy you could manage it :) We are in the middle of moving but I will make more videos. As fort the mirrors the same concept applies, you just have to go really pretty hard on the vinyl since you need to go further around. But sometimes it is better to work with 2 pieces as it will guarantee a better durability. So if you have a body line to go with, do it. Another way would be to pre-stretch and then shrink back.

:D Happy if it helped

​​@@vinyl-witchJust 5 minutes ago, was wrapping my boot shifter cover in my car, a similar shape or concept as your mouse. Back for a refresher, lol! Smaller pieces are harder for sure, and yes, your video, has helped me out so much! You have no idea! Thanks again.

I guess...witchcraft :D

Wow you looked me up? That is so motivating, thank youuuuu :)

If it is a gold metallic it should work the same way. If you use chrome gold, it will be very difficult because chromes can't be stretched. With chrome you need to make a little bit of a puzzle work.

It depends. To make it more pliable, yes. Usually you can use steam at the end to get the finish as perfect as possible. Or a heat gun, or torch (for the self healing effect). Some vinyls need a post heating which needs temperatures up to 200° C or more (post heating is recommended always). But just to help with stretch you can even use a hairdryer. Not as efficient as a heat gun but it will definitely help.

Yes, it should work if your hair dryer gets hot enough. It might take a bit longer though to get it soft enough (depending also on the vinyl). A heat gun generates simply more heat faster. For bigger applications, like cars, a hair dryer will not be enough ;)

I am glad to hear it helped. :)

If you have a pic or few of your issue, you might wanna send it to me via FB (Vinyl-Witch). Maybe I can help indeed when I see what makes you struggle.

Not yet. I have some side mirrors lying around and other car pieces. When I get the time I will do some corners. I think those are in particular tricky sometimes indeed.

It depends. A lot of plastics are difficult to wrap because they tend to be to 'rough' in a sense of low surface energy. Like car body parts for example (those black plastic pieces like door moldings or interior trim pieces with this little texture to it etc). Some plastics 'gas out' over time (that's why they get brittle, they fade, black turns grayish, red turns pinkish). In those cases the vinyl would get air pockets and probably undo at one point. You need to try. I have wrapped fairing pieces on motorcycles and so far there have been no issues. If it sticks well from the beginning I would give it a try.

Specify the question. Brand? Any...they have all different properties. But basically any wrap vinyl will work well.

Oops I missed your comment. Sorry for that. Yes, I am planning to make more videos.

@@vinyl-witch okay perfect what’s your email to contact you? I got a technical wrapping question

@@Chris-fu5mb You can contact me currently via my FB page.

@@vinyl-witch Hey your facebook page is not opening up unfortunately :( Says "content isn't available right now"

@@Chris-fu5mb Whut? Seems to work fine...strange, but yeah I need to get a proper website up.... FB makes me #*@grrrr in so many ways

You can cut actually all vinyls with a cutter. I am using here specifically wrap vinyl but you have a point. ( another video idea :)) As for the differences of the vinyls itself: Wrap vinyl is designed for vehicles or anything that will also be exposed to the elements. It is thicker than regular vinyl (talking still microns though) and has air channels in the glue (makes it easier to avoid trapping air underneath). The thickness also allows for more stretch. It is more durable generally speaking and has a longer lifetime and less 'self shrink' over time. Now, lettering vinyl and craft vinyl can also be used to 'wrap' something. It is the same material BUT those are thinner. Hence stretch is limited before it discolors. And those have no air channels. This makes it difficult to wrap dry since it is very easy to trap air. (There are exceptions though. Oracal has lettering vinyl with air release.) Lettering vinyl is available for outdoors and indoors. Difference is lifetime. And how it was produced: Cast or calendared. Craft vinyl is usually calendared. It is meant for indoor usage and has a shorter lifetime (but we are still talking years). And biggest difference is the shrinkage. Calendared vinyl shrinks over time on its own much more than cast. But there are wrap vinyls that are calendared because they have a nicer finish... So baseline: You can wrap with any vinyl just need to know the limits. Without air release a wet application is better but this makes it difficult when heating to soften and stretch it. But the behavior is the same. When heated it gets soft and really stretchable and when re-heated it will always tend to go back to its original state.

@@vinyl-witch Thank you for the information and going Into great detail, I really appreciate it. I looked forever for an answer. I honestly just wanted to know if I could wrap the cool looking vinyl sheets with all the holographic colors you see online. But I guess it's not made for that. I just want heat and wrap random small items of mine, just to give them more style like you did here with this mouse. So my best bet would be to go specifically shopping for "wrap" vinyl. Got it 👍. Thanks again

@@namelessvermillion8188 Oh, those holographic ones are very special. These are polyester based, they do not stretch at all and if they do (with heat out of hell) usually it breaks the holo-effect, they get wrinkled and don't shrink back or separate layers. They are good for flat surfaces or if you like to swear a lot ;) A nightmare literally. Unless you make a pattern with a cutter, by reducing the total surface to small pieces (if this makes sense).

:) You would need to that in pieces if you want to cover the front frame and the back. But yeah, I could (just need to find the time) & I have a monitor standing around that gave up 3 weeks ago. It's a good sampler for corners... I will see what I can do.

@@vinyl-witch Sweet. That would be so helpful. I'm going to just try to vinyl wrap the monitor bezel.

It depends what works best for you + your surroundings. I have mine usually mid hot. If you have to heat a larger area you need it hotter, other wise it will cool down before you can heat up everything. For post heating you need to check the recommendations of the brand you use. They all have different temp. Avery i.e. is somewhere between 175-196°F.

😁 Try without beer... It's all about practice.

@@vinyl-witch the part that im trying to wrap is really complicated its the shape of a doughtnut. imagine like round on all sides and a round concave hole in the center, is this even going to be possible for me, a complete amateur?

Be restassured no mice were harmed during this demonstration ;)

That's an ancient relic from the time when mice had still "balls" 😂. (probably 20 years old) I found a few in a box in the garage and keep those for wrapping or airbrushing.

@@vinyl-witch right they did have balls, i remember ,craving them out ô.ô

It will probably not be hot enough. You can try but a heat gun is much better. You need a constant even heat.