How to Wear Hanfu | Jiaoling Aoqun (交領襖裙) from the Ming Dynasty 

Thank you :)

You can buy in taobao

披風 Pi Feng both in first tone

Hi Kristina, pifeng is meant to be an outer layer and therefore should never be put inside a skirt. If the top style is crossed collar with big flowy sleeves and inside the skirt, it’s probably one of the Wei-Jin dynasty styles. I’ve also seen Tang Dynasty qiyao ruqun with similar look. Hope this helps :)

@@FiveThousandYears why do you think they tucked in the crossover shirt into the skirt and later they wear the crossover top over the skirt?

I currently purchase my hanfu from China. I don't have the skill to create a complete outfit yet :P

Taobao.com sells hanfu. You need to use mandarin characters to search for specific styles/garments you need. Look at hanfu on wikipedia and use the mandarin characters provided in taobao searches. There is a sister site to taobao that makes it easier for English speakers to purchase hanfu (think of it as a middle man site). I cant remember the name. Its easier in the sense that a decent but not complete product details are translated for you and the means of purchase is in English.

If you are new to hanfu, I would start with bigger shops such as 重回汉唐、花朝记、汉尚华莲 I personally really like designs from 踏云馆

awesome thank you!

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Five Thousand Years can you put the shop names in English maybe or post the link?

Stipare Stipo 中国政府已经开始推民族文化复兴了。三月初三已经订为中国华服日了。

no one said anything dude. Overly conscious.

Due to the rise of nationalism in both China and Korea, the truth needs to be heard more.

master universe Korean Hanbok has Koreans origins, and although it imported many textiles and design elements from China. However it has been revolutionized through centuries to the point that it no longer has the Chinese essence anymore. Just like how the Chinese Yuanlingpao was originally Xianbei but the Han Chinese stylized it as their own to the point where it can’t be called Xianbei anymore. The problem about the TV show was it showed Joseon style hanbok instead of Aoqun (袄裙), typical Ming clothing. The issue was not about the question of the place of origin or who steal whose culture but about putting the correct perception of history and politics along with cultural theft and appropriation. I think it is valid for Koreans to be angry for the tv show appropriating Joseon style Hanbok as Aoqun and I think you should be angry too because it is also a form of erasure in Chinese culture. However, when you expect Chinese people to not copy Korean culture and attack Chinese people based on modern politics and oppress Chinese culture and claim Hanfu copied Korea, that is just hypocritical. From my objective analysis and research, Hanbok predates Chinese influence on Korean culture and has Skitsi-Siberian origins, but it was from China that many essential design and embroidery elements were introduced to Hanbok. Hanfu never copied Hanbok, yes, some Chinese women wore Goryeo Hanbok during then Mongol Yuan Dynasty as indicated in a Yuan Dynasty poem, but this custom was eliminated by Zhu Yuanzhang, founding emperor of Ming Dynasty, and other Korean fashion trends that survived Zhu Yuanzhang’s policy were eliminated by Emperor Hongzhi. There are many styles in Ming, mainly 袄裙， 马面裙，these two are mainly derived from Song Ruqun but with a large amount Mongol influences even after Zhu Yuanzhang’s attempt to eliminate “barbarian culture from China”. There is a fashion trend from Korea called 馬尾襯裙 that was eliminated by Emperor Hongzhi, and this the remnant of the Goryeo style Hanbok worn China during the Mongol Yuan Dynasty. This historical record, by 查繼佐 “成化中，馬尾裙盛行。此制始於朝鮮國，流入京師。” It means: In Mid Chenghua Period（around 1476A.D.）, the horsetail skirt (馬尾襯裙) was popular in Beijing, was from Korea . And another record comes from the memorial of the early years of Hongzhi in Mid Ming Dynasty. “京中士人好著馬尾襯裙，因此官馬被人偷拔鬃尾，有誤軍國大計。乞要禁革。” It means: Beijing official like to wear horsetail petticoat, so someone stole the official horse's tail. It is a delay in State affairs. Please allow them to be dismissed. According to the《寓圃筆記》(Ming Dynasty)： “髮裙之制，以馬尾編成，系于襯衣之內。” It means: The "hair skirt" is made of fabric made of horsetail weave, this is a petticoat. This Korean fashion trend in court was banned later because Emperor Hongzhi wanted to continue 复衣冠 policy by Emperor Hongwu. This is clothing policy made by first Ming Emperor to ban unorthodox clothing. 摘自 《明太祖实录·卷30》 “诏：复衣冠如唐制，初，元世祖起自朔漠以有天下，悉以胡俗变易中国之制，士庶咸辫发垂髻，深襜（檐）胡俗（注：《太祖实录校勘记》校正为“深檐胡帽”）。衣服则为裤褶窄袖及辫线腰褶，妇女衣窄袖短衣，下服裙裳，无复中国衣冠之旧。甚者易其姓氏为胡名，习胡语俗化既久恬不知怪。上久厌之至，是悉命复衣冠如唐制。士民皆束发于顶，官则乌纱帽、圆领、束、黑靴；士庶则服四带巾、杂色盘领衣，不得用黄玄。乐工冠青卍字顶巾，系红绿帛带。士庶妻首饰许用银镀金耳环，用金珠钏镯，用银服浅色团衫，用纻丝绫罗绢。其乐妓则戴明角冠皂褙子，不许与庶民妻同，不得服两截胡衣。其辫发、椎髻、胡服胡语胡姓一切禁止。斟酌损益皆断自圣心，于是百有余年胡俗悉复中国之旧矣” More clothing policy. 《大明会典》整成啥了： 永乐三年定，冠、乌纱折角向上巾 【亦名翼善冠、亲郡王及世子俱同】袍、赤色。盘领窄袖。前后及两肩、各金织蟠龙一、带、用玉靴、皮为之 据《明太祖实录·卷三十九》载 （洪武二年二月丁丑）诏定侍仪舍人及校尉刻期冠服，礼官议曰：“古者朝觐，必有傧相之职，公西华、端章甫为相，则章甫者，傧相之服也。汉唐以下置谒者，凡朝会掌引导行礼，汉用玄冠绛衣，唐用武弁绛公服，宋谓之礼直官用公服，元谓之侍仪舍人用展脚幞头、窄袖紫衫、涂金带、皂靴...... 今拟侍仪舍人道礼，依元制用展脚幞头、窄袖紫衫、涂金束带、皂纹靴；常服用乌纱帽、盘领衫。校尉执仗亦依元制，首服用金额交脚幞头，诸色辟邪宝相花裙袄、铜葵化束带、皂纹靴、刻期冠、方顶巾、衣胸背鹰鹞花腰线袄、诸色阔扁丝绦、象牙雕花环行縢八带鞋。”制曰：“可”。 Don’t forget that Joseon adopted Chinese dress code for male nobles and officials. 辛未朝鮮國王李芳遠遣陪臣石璘李原等奉表謝賜藥并貢馬及方物且請冕服書籍　上嘉其能慕中國禮文悉從之命禮部具九章冕服五經四書并鈔及綵幣表禮"--摘自明实录(Veritable Records of the Ming) 张昱《张光弼诗集》卷三《宫中词》： 宫衣新尚高丽样，方领过腰半臂载，连夜内家争借看，为曾着过御前来。" "궁중에서 새롭게 유행하는 것은 고려양이라네 방령에 짧은 허리, 반소매 궁중 여인들이 밤까지 이어져 구경하려 하네 이는 고려 여인이 황제 앞에 이 옷을 입고왔기 때문이라네" Translation: The new trend in the palace is Goryeo Style. Short-waist, short-sleeved court women in Bangryeong continue to watch until night. The Short-waist, short-sleeved clothes has nothing to do with Ming dynasty Hanfu, another evidence that Hanbok was influenced by Hanfu, because in Yuan dynasty Korean still wear Short-waist, short-sleeved clothes. [숙원잡기]《菽园杂记》：：“马尾裙始于朝鲜国，流入京师……于是无贵无贱，服者日盛。至成化末年，朝臣多服之者矣。阁老万公安冬夏不脱……。大臣不服者惟黎吏侍淳一人而已。此服妖也，弘治初始有禁例。” "마미군은 조선국(고려)에서 시작되어, 수도로 유입됬으며......귀천을 가리지 않고 복식이 날로 성했다. 성화말년에 이르러, 조정 신하들도 많이 입게 되었다. 각로 모두 공, 사, 겨울에도 여름에도 벗지 않았다.....이 복식은 요사하므로, 홍치 초시에 금지되었다." Translation: Woven horsetails skirt started in Chosun (Korea) and flowed into the capital... By the end of the torch, many court officials were also wearing them. All of the corners were not taken off in the winter or in the summer. In Ming dynasty, we wear马面裙 has no inner skirt, which is not puffy. 马尾裙, which is inner skirt that make outsider skirt puffy, we do not wear that in Ming dynasty. Even we wear inner skirt, it is not made of Woven horsetails and has nothing to do with korea. [만포필기], 《寓圃笔记》:"发裙之制，以马尾编成，系于衬衣之内。体肥者一裙，瘦削者或二三，使外衣之张，俨若一伞。", "치마를 넓히는 제도는, 말꼬리를 옷안에 엮어서 만든다. 몸을 비대하게 만든 하나의 치마로, 마른사람은 혹 두개 세개를 입는다, 옷을 바깥으로 넓게 퍼지게 만드는데 쓰는데, 우산과 같다."고 기록하고 있습니다. Translation: The system for widening the skirt is made by woven horsetails into clothes. It is a skirt that makes the body enlarged, and the skinny person wears two or three lumps, and it is used to spread the clothes widely outside, and it is like an umbrella." Are you kinding me, Hanfu in Ming dynasty do not use horsetails panty to enlarge the body, what we wear is 马面裙，not 马尾裙，马尾裙 made of woven horsetails is a kind of inner skirt. That is all 高丽 clothes mentioned in these material, after translation, we can see that it has little influence on with Ming dynasty clothes, but there surely was Korean style petticoat in Ming China.

@@jasonhuang6078 可以存下你的评论吗 以后怼hgr用

@@junainoakuma Somebody did

1.Samguk sagi 삼국사기 (三國史記. 新羅本紀) : AD 648 “春秋又請改其章服，以從中華製” “춘추가 또한 장복(章服)을 고쳐서 중국의 제도에 따를 것을 청하자” “Gim Chunchu 무열왕 asked the Emperor of Tang for permission to change the traditional cloth of Silla, the country shall follow the Chinese style” 2. History of Goryeo 고려사권 137권 (高麗史 137卷): AD 1392 “復行洪武年號，襲大明衣冠,禁胡服” “부행홍무년호 습대명의복 금호복” “Joseon Dynasty shall adopt the era name of Hongwu of Ming, wear Ming costumes and headgears, ban Hu Dress” 3.Samguk Sagi Volumn 5『삼국사기』권5 『三國史記』卷5 : AD 649 “(真德王) 三年,春正月，始服中朝衣冠” “(진덕왕) 3년(649) 봄 정월에 비로소 중국의 의관(衣冠)을 착용하였다” " In the third year of Jindeok, the first month of spring, people in Silla (South Korea) started to wear Chinese-style cloth and hats" 4.Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty Volume 36 고종실록 고종 36권 朝鮮王朝實錄 高宗 36卷 “我邦疆土, 係是漢、唐古地, 衣冠文物, 悉遵宋、明遺制, 接其統, 而襲其號, 無所不可" “우리나라의 강토는 한(漢) 나라와 당(唐) 나라의 옛 땅에 붙어있고 의관(衣冠)과 문물(文物)은 다 송(宋) 나라나 명(明) 나라의 옛 제도를 따르고 있으니, 그 계통을 잇고 그 칭호를 그대로 쓴들 안 될 것이 없습니다” “The territories of Korea used to be ancient land of Han and Tang. Our costumes and relics conformed to Song. The kingdom system and structure adopted from Ming. It is rightful and legal to inherit the true name of Greater China and her culture - Joseon Gojong조선고종 高宗” 5. Taejo of Goryeos' Ten Rules 왕이 훈요10조를 내리다 高麗太祖 訓要十條 "惟我東方, 舊慕唐風, 文物禮樂, 悉遵其制, 殊方異土, 人性各異, 不必苟同. 契丹是禽獸之國, 風俗不同, 言語亦異, 衣冠制度, 愼勿效焉" “우리 동방(東方)은 옛날부터 중국의 풍속[唐風]을 흠모하여 문물(文物)과 예악(禮樂)이 다 그 제도를 따랐으나, 지역이 다르고 인성(人性)도 각기 다르므로 꼭 같게 할 필요는 없다. 거란(契丹)은 짐승과 같은 나라로 풍속이 같지 않고 말도 다르니 의관제도(衣冠制度)를 삼가 본받지 말라” "We, the East admire the customs of the Tang Dynasty, learn her rite and music, adopt her system and style. People from far land are different from us in terms of humanity, do not try to make them look similar in a subservient manner. The nature of Khitan (契丹) is brutal and bestial, we do not share the same value or language with them, so do not follow their system of attire" 6.Zhao Jun(Chinese: 趙浚, Korean: 조준 - 위키백과, 우리 모두의 백과사전) (1346-1405) , minister, general, and poet of late Koryeo dynasty and early Korea dynasty, wrote in his "memorial to the throne about current affairs(陳時務疏)": "祖宗衣冠禮樂，悉遵唐制。迨至元朝，壓於時王之制，變華從戎，上下不辨，民誌不定。我玄陵憤上下之無等，赫然有誌於用夏變夷，追復祖宗之盛。上表天朝，請革胡服，未幾上賓。上王繼誌得請，中為執政所改。殿下即位，親服華制，與壹國臣民渙然更始，而尚猶不順其品制，以梗維新之政。 Translation: “Our ancestors' costume, hat, ritual, instrument system were all following the Tang dynasty. But during Yuan dynasty, we are forced to follow Mongols instead of Han Chinese when we were under the ruling of Mongols. The dressing was a mess. Our former king was very upset about that and set his mind to recover Chinese dressing to rebuild the glory of our ancestors. Our king were asking Ming emperor to let us end the Mongolian style, but he died later. Ming emperor agreed soon and our dressing changed back finally. our new Koryeo king started to wear Chinese style in person with all people around the Koryeo country. But still there were many works to do for recovering totally.” 7.Jeong In-ji - Wikipedia (Chinese: 鄭麟趾, Korean: 정인지, December 28, 1396 - November 26, 1478) was a Korean Neo-Confucian scholar, historian who served as Vice Minister of Education or Deputy Chief Scholar (Head of Office for Special Advisors) during the reign of King Sejong the Great, Minister of Rites during the reign of King Munjong and Danjong. He was the writer of History of Goryeo(《高麗史》). Quote from this book: "東國自三韓儀章服飾循習土風，至新羅太宗王請襲唐儀，是後冠服之制稍擬中華。 Translation: “We eastern country (meaning Koryeo) dressed in our own aboriginal way from the SamHan period, and till King Silla Tae jong decided to follow the costume system of Tang dynasty, our costume system resembles Chinese. ” 8.Xu Juzheng(Chinese: 徐居正, Korean: 서거정, 1420-1492) 徐居正 - 维基百科，自由的百科全书 is a official and poet of Korean Joseon - Wikipedia dynasty. One of his poem wrote "明皇若問三韓事，衣冠文物上國同。 Translation: “If Ming emperor asked about Korea, I would answer that Korean dressing and cultural artifact are the same as suzerain(Ming is suzerain of Joseon” 9.Choe Bu - Wikipedia (Chinese: 崔溥, Korean: 최부, 1454-1504) was a Korean official during the early Joseon Dynasty. He had said “蓋我朝鮮地雖海外，衣冠文物悉同中國。 Translation: “Even though our Korean live overseas China, our dressing and cultural artifact are the same as China.”

@@parkjoonkwang9259 Hi there. Can you tell where you get the source of this information. I want to know more

韩国人发明历史，可历史书却用汉字书写！

Well, since you and the others ask the counterparts this question, I will also throw it back at you. Can you provide the evidence by putting a link or can you tell us what to look up?

"Goryeo Yang" is not original korean clothing style, it is also Chinese clothing style from tang and song dynasty ,.====Zhao Jun(Chinese: 趙浚, Korean: 조준 - 위키백과, 우리 모두의 백과사전) (1346-1405) , minister, general, and poet of late Koryeo dynasty and early Korea dynasty, wrote in his "memorial to the throne about current affairs(陳時務疏)": "祖宗衣冠禮樂，悉遵唐制。迨至元朝，壓於時王之制，變華從戎，上下不辨，民誌不定。我玄陵憤上下之無等，赫然有誌於用夏變夷，追復祖宗之盛。上表天朝，請革胡服，未幾上賓。上王繼誌得請，中為執政所改。殿下即位，親服華制，與壹國臣民渙然更始， Translation: “Our ancestors' costume, hat, ritual, instrument system were all following the Tang dynasty. But during Yuan dynasty, we follow Mongols instead of Han Chinese when we were under the ruling of Mongols. The dressing was mongolian clothings . Our former king was very upset about that and set his mind to recover Chinese dressing to rebuild the glory of our ancestors. Our king were asking Ming emperor to let us end the Mongolian style, but he died later. Ming emperor agreed soon and our dressing changed back finally. our new Koryeo king started to wear Chinese style in person with all people around the Koryeo country. also,宮衣新尚高麗樣，方領過腰半臂裁。連夜內家爭借看，為曾著過禦前來－宮中詞（by 張昱） Goryeo yang is 方領過腰半臂裁 square collar and half sleeves, it is not even similar to korean hanbok today, but it is same as tang dynasty clothing , 坦領半臂 of Tang dynasty. while the korean history classic: Samguk sagi: 삼국사기 (三國史記): “”真德王三年春正月，始服中朝衣冠“”。 translation : korean Silla female king 真德 : people in silla ( korea) started to wear chinese clothing ( tang dynasty ), 至眞徳在位二年金春秋入唐請襲唐儀.玄宗皇帝詔可之兼賜衣帶.遂還來施行以夷易華文武王在位四年又革婦人之服自此已後衣冠同於中國. From《三國史記》(삼국사기)(Samguk Sagi) by Kim Busik(김부식/金富軾)(1075-1151) Translation: In the second year of the reign of Queen Jindeok(眞徳女王/진덕여왕)(648AD), Kim Chunchu(金春秋/김춘추) entered the Tang Empire and entreated to follow the Tang's custom. Emperor Tangxuanzong(唐玄宗) approved and granted him with clothes. Kim Chunchu returned and implemented this system, changing the customs of the savage to Chinese style. In the fourth year of the reign of King Munmu(文武王/문무왕)(664AD), the clothes system of women in silla became the same as in China too ... The document recorded that the clothes of Korean women was following the Tang dynasty, thus, the "Goryeo Yang" is copy of clothes of tang dynasty with square collar and half sleeves, while hanbok is copy of Ming dynasty " ao skirt "

Korea is a thief country, they can only steal other country culture.

说汉服抄汉服，拿证据出来证明一下啊，别光打字啊，拿史书的原本来啊，编故事谁都会，就是不要拿中国的古代文物证明汉服是你们南朝鲜的就行了。 不过，像大英博物馆，日本的一些博物馆里都有中国的古代文物，请问有你们韩国的吗？四大古文明有你们韩国的吗？别说高句丽是韩国的了，有脑子的人都知道高句丽文明的中心在中国的东北地区，没有文化都可怜人们啊，真是少什么就想要什么呗，可惜，文明和文化是偷不走的，去联合国非物质文化遗产申请的官网上看看，你们的文化遗产来源不都是中国吗？别断章取义了可怜人

you stop making up stories and distorting history, all korean clothings are copies from china, you are the one that can not provide any evidence that hanbok is a korean clothing, all korean history records are written in chinese, no korean can understand their own history record, but all chinese can,

This one is called aoqun. Not Hanbok. Can you tell me why korean use chinese characters in ancient times?

Koreans please tell me why the word "Hanbok"(韓服/한복) didn't appear in the history documents like 삼국사기(Samguk Sagi) or 고려사(History of Goryeo) or 조선왕조실록(Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty)? It's funny "Hanfu"(漢服) of China are recorded for times in Korea's history documents. ❶凡虜之來投者, 使其養子毛有見主之, 卽換着漢服, 人不得識別矣。 "대체로 귀순한 노인(虜人)은 자기 양자인 모유견(毛有見)을 시켜 주관하도록 하고 곧바로 한복(漢服)을 갈아 입히기 때문에 사람들이 식별을 할 수가 없습니다." ❷城外有長興寺, 張、朱着漢服, 居於寺中云。 성 밖에 장흥사(長興寺)가 있는데, 장·주가 중국 복장으로 절 안에 거처한다고 합니다." From 조선왕조실록(Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty) the hanbok is a mordern term , while chinese hanfu is ancient term, korean hanbok is a copy of chinese ming dynasty hanfu