@@chriscraft77022 hey mister, i'd like to copy your idea but i have a couple of questions before getting started: 1: do i need to add any sort of fuse to the circuit? 2: i've seen switches rated for different Volts and Amps, how do i know which one is suitable for my car? (bear in mind that i do not have the original engine nor manuals at disposal
@@mcspkaput5954 Im not the OP but I can help answer some questions. What vehicle are you trying to put this in? I might have some documents that list useful information. 1: Every wire in a vehicle (post 60s?) from factory will be fused. Lights, fuel pump, windows, seat etc. The wire you are interrupting is already fused (look for "starter relay fuse" in owners manual fuse blocks). If you do the horn idea as well, you should still be protected since the horn power would now be going through the fuse meant for the starter solenoid relay. Edit: I guess I should clarify this was on an 09 G6 which will have BCM and ECU communication so there is no direct line between ignition and starter solenoid. If your vehicle is older you may not have a "starter relay" fuse and may instead have an ignition fuse if there is a direct wire between the starter solenoid and ignition. 2: For the switch, voltage doesn't matter as long as it is above ~16V if your vehicle is a 12V system. I would go for at least 24V if you are worried. For the current: it depends on what you are trying to splice into. Example: I believe my vehicle starter relay fuse is a 30A? fuse (physically check your fuse labels). Your switch should be higher than this in the event of a short it will not destroy the switch. Remember: every component (wire, switch, relay) should be rated HIGHER than the fuse that is protecting them.
Simple, effective and cheap insurance.. Your clever vids have been invaluable for restoring my 68 SS the last 2 years. This Jan will be final completion.You got my appreciation and respect. Big thanks Chris!
Great video Chris, I'll do this to my 1980 El Camino . I am replacing my kill switch location and the horn trick ,is great . I started watching your videos about a year ago , and rebuilt my edelbrock carb with your help .Now I watch all your videos and give them a thumbs up.
Chris you must have read my mind . Years ago I did exactly that on few cars except the horn thing, best idea I have seen so far after a lot of researching for a better one. Good job mate genius idea and simple.
I installed this with the horn today. Many thanks for the instruction and drawing. Combined with another semi related video and I have a creative solution to give me piece of mind.
You suggest to wire it into the starter circuit as apposed to the fuel or ignition circuit so that someone who is trying to steal the car doesn't continually crank on the motor! Totally understandable, but why not run a second kill switch to the ignition? My dad had two kill switches on his 65 mustang! On a mid 60's car it isn't a bad idea to have a kill switch on both circuits because the electrical wiring is much simpler than a modern car! Ford even put the stater solenoid on the fender well right next to the battery making it accessible for those who can't figure out how to crank the engine inside the car By having two kill switches, if the person trying to steal the car figures out how to energize one circuit, They still won't be able to start the car unless they figure out how to energize the other circuit!
Hey Chris bad ass video I always wanted to do this to my 67 firebird I really appreciate you making these videos I learn something all the time your the best on wiring on RU-vid God bless you always my friend
The very best simple Kill switch explanation I have seen yet, and I have used it in exactly the same way as you have described. The only down side for me with this setup is that my vehicle is a manual so even with the switch in the off-kill position it can be clutch started. But "hey" it's usually only going to be some lame kid car thief who wouldn't be bothered trying to clutch it & hopefully they will leave it. Better than having nothing though.
It's not good. A manual car can be bumped started . Wire it to the fuel pump. If its older and has no duel pump, wire the switch to the spark plugs cuircut.
I like this one. I always thought with some of the other kill switches they would wear out the starter for ya. But my horn is anemic. But there are lots of imaginative ideas for the third position. I was thinking of doing something with an uninsulated key left in the ignition and an electric fencer.
did that with my 65 impala. the horn idea is a great idea! I did a car by using a switch to ground out HEI too. I have a 72 chevelle so will use that horn idea as a backup. thanks.
Love the 2nd idea with the horn. It got me thinking. I want to install a momentary push button that closes the circuit while starting so I don't have to keep remembering to toggle the switch back and forth each time. What I was thinking is using a 5 pin relay in place of the double throw toggle switch. The neutral safety wire goes into the 30 pin. 87a pin is to the horn, 87 pin to the solenoid. The momentary switch will be to the 86 pin. This way, it will always go to the horn until the momentary switch button is pressed. Once released, it will always go to the horn circuit.
This would be hilarious to rig to a door lock that can’t be opened from inside as well as the horn haha! Totally rigging the horn setup on my 85 Chev C20.
Good idea, add a latching relay in-between the switch to horn wire and the horn will stay on even if they crank for 1 second and dont crank anymore. Horn will blast until battery is dead, or they are..
Would your diagram work with a push-pull or push-button switch, mounted on my dash ('66 Chevy truck) in place of my not-in-use choke bezel? Great video!
I always tap into the wire on top of the gas tank and and break it. I use a small solenoid and being the pump is in the plastic tank on most newer cars I break the ground with my solenoid. I am building a 53 5 window with a stroker 350. I am using a electric pump just for that reason. Non electronic ignitions on vintage cars are to easy to steal as they have a manual fuel pump. You only need one 2ft wire with clips. It goes on ignition side of coil then to the battery hot side now you take a long screw driver reach the solenoid and then you short the big red hot wire across to the S on the solenoid that you are using and it will start right up unless it has no fuel. They also make solenoids that go on a gas line and block fuel altogether. You did a good jog explaining. Just thought I would give you another idea. If you want feel free to make another video with drawings better explaining this if you like the idea. Old cars really need a good kill switch . you could even put one on the coil wire. Once again thanks for the video.
you are so right.. I have never messed with anything older than 67 but I can imagine the ignition wires being easily accessible on pre 60s cars ... VERY GOOD info ... I will brainstorm and possibly make a video when the conventional kill switch is not a good option.. i understand exactly what you are running to kill the fuel pump..
I used a button in my car that already exists in the car, that way everything looks original, I put it with a relay in combination with the key, and it has worked for me for years
Hey Chris, do you have a headliner install video ? I searched with no luck Thank you for all the videos !! You explain things well and offer budget friendly resto options for guys like me !! I'm building a 70 Chevelle now , been binge watching your videos ,hope to see some new Chevelle videos from you soon. !!
Nice, that's exactly what i have in mind for my Ford. Gonna use a remote controlled relay instead though, and probably add a manual switch bypass in the trunk in case it breaks or i lose the remote
Finally someone who thinks like I do. So tired of everyone killing the fuel circuit. If the car won't crank the thief will leave, course he my steal something else or bust up things but at least the car is not stolen. PS like the horn idea.
Great video. Thanks for the instructions! Would this same setup work with a three prong switch with and LED having; Earth, Load & Supply? I was thinking the earth tab can go to any ground on the car, and the purple wire from the starter would get cut and coming from the starter would go into Supply, and then come out of Load and go into the Solenoid. Does that work?
Hey, I appreciate you showing the diagrams that helped a lot. I’ve done some installing alarms and I usually have a yellow wire on old GMC’s. On the starter wire. I’m working on a 2008 GMC Yukon and I cannot find the starter wire coming off the column to save my life. Do you happen to have a picture or could you tell me where that starter wire is located and if it is the 10 gauge Purple? I know a 2004. It’s a 10 gauge yellow. Thank you ahead of time.
Very simple and detailed diagram. I applied the same wiring pattern as shown and got the ignition killed but when I flip it to the horn it blows continious. Where did I go wrong.
Always good information. What’s the status of the Chevelle. I have a 70 Chevelle as well and learned a ton from your videos. I just put a 454 in mine, based off how you installed yours. How about a video on rear differentials?!?!
I was going to make one but there is too much liability on setting pinion depth without the special tool... mine already had 3.31 gears and a posi so I didn’t really have to change anything.. I did rebuild it 100% sand blasted all new axles and bearings..rebuilt the posi and shimmed it... Sorry, it was the first thing I restored on the car, actually before I started making videos
This is an older vid so dont know if it will get answered but... after the 3 switch & bonus wire to horn... my buddy and i were trying to think of something that is removable(maybe like a fuse from a fusable link?) And move that to another part of the vehicle... thoughts on that? Edit: spelling and :So to be more specific, at the end of your vid you have a straight purple line on the bottom... could a relay or fused link be added there, removeable and maybe more unexpected if they bypass/find the killswitch? Or i guess could even be between the ignition and NSS? Any help appreciated.
OUT FRIKEN STANDING SA VES ME $400 + DOLLARS I BOUGHT MY TRUCK For UNDER $200 THE VIPER ALARM THEY wanted $450 that's without installation FRIKEN ripe off thanks made my day
I have another fun question. I assume that this would not turn off the car while it's running. Could I flip the switch after I start the car, while the car is running, without issue. My concern is car jackings - I wouldn't necessarily want to cut the car off immediately, just keep them from restarting the car after they've driven off. I assume since this is the starter, it wouldn't be an issue (like the fuel pump switches for example), but I want to make sure I'm not missing something since I'm not a mechanic.
only thing I'm confused about is what wire I use for the power. Not the 12v constant, is it the wire literally called ignition 1? Or would 12v constant work since the switch will be before the ignition ? Or after what ever way you wanna look at it
There's a black wire on my 92 accord that's smaller than the others it connects directly to my solenoid that's attached to starter. Can I splice this wire and have my switch wires spliced there? I have no electrical experience lol help would be appreciated my car keeps getting messed with. The wire is visible when looking directly down at my motor
Thank you Chris... i’ve been contemplating the idea of installing a kill-switch on my 72 Chevelle lately. However, how should I wire it if I have a starter solenoid??
Chris Craft ....Chris I apologize I meant to type Ford starter solenoid... I had to install a ford starter solenoid on my Chevelle to assist the starter.
i apologize, i will get it up as soon as possible.. video just not getting the views.. there is a secret way to wire it up if you dont want to run the hot wire all the way to the horns.. with a relay.. i will try to get it up as soon as possible
@@chriscraft77022 I neeeeeed part 2!!! Preferably explained so a five year old can understand it... electrical stuff is not my strong suit. Please and thanks! Fingers crossed. Toes, too.
Without a relay to protect the switch... won't the 20amp switch burn sooner or later due to the several times you crank the engine/starter with the car 100amp battery (for example)? (great video, thanks!)