I follow you closely. you are a real master. Thank you very much for the information you provided. I am also an electrician, but I need more experience and knowledge. There is a saying in our country. "The master promises and does not keep secrets." In other words, he does not want to teach his profession entirely to apprentices. In Europe and America, this is the opposite. All masters make great efforts to perfectly transfer their knowledge to other generations. Thank you very much for the information you provided. Rafet Telci Turkey.
Just wanted to let you know you're killing it man! Love watching your stuff. You really break things down to the nitty gritty which is just lacking in the expert world. Gave me the confidence to wire up my own garage once it's finished! Thanks :)
This is by far the best descriptive instructional video I have seen. Thanks for sharing this knowledge with us. Looking forward for more instructional videos like this.
This is the best beginner DIY I have ever seen. Thanks for the help! I can confidently say I will have no problem doing my garage/man cave now lol. KEEP AMERICA GREAT MY BLUE COLLARED ALLIES!
@@TheExcellentLaborer All your videos and tutorials are well thought out and easy to follow. My sons and I have learned a lot from you Brother, thanks 🙏
@unknown_wwolf1827 Yes, his videos are very knowledgeable, especially if you're doing basic upgrades in your home. BUT make sure you understand how electricity works, code, and safety. Last thing you want to do is hurt yourself or someone else.
I worked for a federal agency that required the screws that mounted the ground and neutral bars to the panel be bolts and nuts even if they came from the manufacturer as sheetmetal screws. We used to say according to NEC or better. :) They had several squirrley codes that usually caused confusion or frustration to commercial electricians.
This is the first video that I've viewed by this gentleman, and I must say my God what an incredible presentation! His work is top shelf to say the least but it's his presentation that even impressed me more. So many videos on RU-vid are fine but there are often lapses in the presenter's dialog in what's being done. There sure wasn't that problem here. Every step was explained clearly with nothing to question. This is the type of guy that you would want to have work done for you....a true Craftsman.
@@georgec7199 Wow! This is such a humbling comment! It has always been a dream of mine to help people using video. I’m thankful I am able to in this day and age. It does take a lot of time to make videos like this so I appreciate your support. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for a great video! You couldn't have explained it any better. I personally don't feel comfortable leaving that one breaker slot open, if even temporarily. That bar is/could be hot behind there and...
How can we pay for the education you are providing and how can it be improved aside from solar panels since they fail in cloudy weather that lasts four periods of time.
I found that a cheap solution for driving those ground bars is a fence post driver it works amazing to get it the majority of the way in and you don't even need a ladder
Thank you for making this video. It’s great to try to teach people. I hope you are humble enough to continue learning. Im not being a typical whiny electrician i just want to give some advice. You could have put the main breaker on the bottom and saved a little gutter space. Noalox is not required on AA8000 wire (aluminum alloy) but it doesn’t hurt. However, if you're going to use it you should apply it to the wire and then work it in with emery cloth or a wire brush. Then you should torque your connections as this is not a local requirement its NEC required due to manufacturer requirement. Lastly, the breaker feeding that panel needs to be 90 amps as #2 aluminum in the 75° column is only rated for 90A. This is not nit picking, it sounds like a lot of people enjoy your videos so i am hoping to contribute to your ability to help others. ⚡️
Awesome videos Josh. I'm trying to decide to wire my 12x24 shop I'm currently building. Question, why the junction box and not wire directly to the main panel? Thanks for all your education man, I'm learning a lot.
Thanks a lot! The reason for the junction box in the crawlspace is because I wired my main house and put the wire for the garage in the main panel before the garage was built and I was not sure where to put it. So having the junction box gave me flexibility for the unknown location. Other than that I could have directly ran it straight to the main panel. I hope that helps!
Great video. I would just say it’s a good idea to use a meter check the voltage at each outlet, and at the panel, instead of potentially destroying expensive things like your nice router :) I recommend the Fluke T5-600.
Seems like you did a good job, and there's a chance that your inspector would want to see NOALOX on the aluminum connections; however, the manufacturer of your panel recommends you not use NOALOX. This is due to the panel being designed to be used with dry aluminum connections and NOALOX also acts as a lubricant which has the potential to throw the lugs torque specs off.
I like how you explained everything that you're doing not like some of the others on the site job well done I have a question for you how do you get 110v from a 220v service system that only have 2 hot wires and no neutral wire
FYI - If anyone hasn't suggested yet, I have one for you. I found when I was pounding my Ground Rods in, that if you take an empty pop bottle, fill it up with water and trickle the water down the pole as you pound it in and it makes it go a bit easier. Although, mine were Corrugated Copper Rods. It still made a difference. Love Your Show!
Can you please explain why you need a 100 amp breaker in the main panel and a 100amp breaker for the subpanel? Apologies if I missed this in your excellent video.
My understanding of the electrical code is that the area that is stapled above the outlet box (40:00) is improperly setup. The wire going in through the stud now needs a wider radius. The old way of making it 90 degrees was eliminated years ago. This bend is now considered a significant point of resistance and overheating which can risk a fire. The hole through the stud should be made higher up where you are then able after the staple(s) above the box, to curve the wire outward away from the stud before you then curve it back inward and through the stud...creating a non acute looping effect!.
Great descriptive video. I always love that you explain about checking your local codes. By us, you cannot have a extra piece of pipe for a future run unless you have a pull string in it from point A to B. Using the paste for preventative corrosion is always a must as well. Good habit to do for sure. I've replaced panels that did not have it and had issues with bad connection and not able to fix it. We have to torque the main lugs on the panels as well. I will say I always loved having stranded wire jobs to have the ability to make it easier running through pipe. Our first house I had 2" from the road to the house which made it super easy to pull the wires through easily. Just like when you pulled yours. Why struggle for the little bit of cost of the bigger pipe. Of course the code is important to what size wire used. The height is important as well and making sure the correct size wire to feed the sub panel and that your main panel can handle it. I always loved doing the panel work especially upgrading one for safety reasons. A clean panel, done right is great especially when the inspector sees it. Thank you again for such a great video step by step. 🔨🔨👍🏻👍🏻
Your channel popped up after watching another panel wire video that was 9 minutes long and here I am watching yours for just about 48 minutes and liked it. Good explanation very professional.
Thanks for a great video! If you are grounding the panel using a separate grounding rod (because it's in a detached structure), why are you connecting the ground conductor from the main panel?
What I've been told, the ground is connected from sub to main to give a path for in building shorts. The ground rod is to give a path for lightening strikes that would overload both panels.
I can't thank you enough for this video. As it's getting harder and harder to find an electrician to even return a phone call, this helps us DIYers immensely. Very well done!
Can someone help me I put a new panel up waiting on electrician never came never return calls half the house came on with the other half did not and nothing was label from the guest previous people or person that wired the house help please it's cold and I live off grid😢 I Thanks YOU in advance HELP PLEASE How can I trace to find out what's wrong
Probably because you guys are known for being cheap or hard to deal with, there’s to many people out there that just want the job done, not argue and cry about a price that’s never going to change
Awesome video. I am curious on the specifics of the #2 wire you used. I see the link says its "2-2-4-6 Aluminum Mobile Home Feeder Cable" (though not in stock anymore on Amazon). Is there a link to the #2 wire you ran through your basement? I think that wire is different as it has a cable jacket.
Excellent job. Thanks for basic things like showing how to put blue boxes on walls and other details most others skip. You really hit a home run assuming the watcher knows very little about this stuff. That is why I’m watching. I learned a lot of “ assumed basics” others forgot to cover. Great work,
What is the issue with NOT bonding ground rods and the potential of shock due to a difference in the ground's potential resistance? In all my installs we always bond every ground rod together in the system. Also to note that low voltage and high voltage CAN NOT share the same conduits in pretty much every NEC code in all jurisdictions. The low voltage being data cable grade and the high voltage being 120v AC and above. May seem easier to run one conduit with both but the code mandates separation.
Good luck with your sub panel project! It can be intimidating for sure. It is amazing how much it cost to have work done. I just had 80 yards of concrete poured and it was crazy expensive! I appreciate you stopping by and comment!
Don't be scared anytime working on electrical is stressful, as long as you take it step by step and double check everything I'm confident you can do it.
@@TheExcellentLaborerouch I just had 20yds of concrete for a new garage and didn't like that. Atleast they did an awesome job.😂 I'm about to start the wiring process just making sure I haven't missed anything but my uncle is a retired master electrician and has been steering me in the right direction and I'd say I'm deffinitly in the upper tier of handyman so I have no worries. Good video though.
Don't be scared at all. Be confident and cautious when handling live electric but don't be scared. As long as you pay attention to what you are doing all will be ok.
Now lets do a do it yourself solar system..I did one on my garage. Its awesome to be off the grid on the garage ..You will also have backup electric for when the power goes out.. You are a great instructor.
Great video, only thing i would add is when you run your wire into your subpanel its good practice to go past the breaker and come back up to the breaker. This would give a little more flexibility if you would need to move the breaker to another location in the box.
Hello Josh I love watching your videos. I have a question I was wondering what wire I'm going to need to run to my shed? I want to put a 60amp breaker in my main box and run a wire in conduit to my shed box. That's going to be a 60amp breaker box in my shed. I hope you can understand what I'm talking about. Lol Thanks in advance ☺️
This is the MOST informative video I have EVER SAW . Do you have a video showing how to wire a double plugin Receptable an come out of that box to go on down the wall to the next one??. Thanks
Thanks for posting this video, it is very helpful to me to confirm what I need to do to replace an old 100amp panel in my house. I have two questions.. I know panels are typically/ almost always , installed with the main breaker on top, but the existing feed wires coming from my exterior main panel, up from the crawl space in the same size conduit are not long enough to properly be routed to the hot- hot- neutral mounting screws. Can I mount the panel "upside down" seeing as there is nothing on the panel itself or the panel cover that indicates a definitive top. I don't want to mount panel lower than the existing 42" bottom of panel height, and I also don't want to try to cut the conduit with the wires in it. My second question is about understanding that this is considered a sub panel because the exterior mounted 200amp panel is the main panel and it is ok to add a second 100anp main breaker in this sub panel even though it's not necessary because there is a 100amp breaker in the main panel, but do I have to do anything in this sub panel to separate the neutrals and grounds, or do I just not have to add a tie-in? They appear to be already tied together by the full width cross bar that you mount the neutral feed to. My new panel is a Square D Homeline 100amp Main Breaker 20 spaces 40 circuits "circuit breaker load center" # HOM2040M100PCVP w/ plug on neutral. Sorry for long text, trying to give all info.... thanks in advance to anyone who can respond...??? MAIN BREAKER ON BOTTOM OK ???? NEUTRALS AND GROUNDS SEPARATED????
Main breaker on bottom is code it can go either way, your neutrals and grounds must be separated as it is a sub panel (don’t use the green bonding screw) you don’t need another 100amp breaker if the panel comes with one built into it.
What if I have a meter that goes to the house 200 amp and I have another 200 amp in the barn that comes from the same meter? Do I still need to separate ground and neutral at the barn breaker box? Run ground rod in by the barn and solid ground clamp to it and then what do I run to the meter from the barn no other ground right?
This is an awesome well explained video great job. I have a quick question I want to add power to my shed in near future about 5 lights one 30 amp outlet and about 6 outlets I wanted to ask you will a 60amp sub panel be enought and what size wire will I need to run underground around 50 to 60 ft any info is greatly appreciated
Excellent video! Thank you! Do you show installing the lug on the neutral in any of your videos? I'm thinking that neutral from the subpanel is #2 and is too big for your neutral/ground bar in the main. Do you show reading the panel specs in any video that helped you find the right lug and shows no need for lug for the ground wire?
Is it required code to put the wire through the conduit? Nevermind you answered my question that if it was in a Sheath already it would not have to be in a conduit
Hey Josh, Instead of using a hammer to drive your ground rod in, you might consider usung a "metal" post driver - Works great and a bit easier than a hammer - Still have to drive last couple of feet with hammer though. BTW: Your videos are Great!
Thanks a lot! I actually addressed that question in the video. I still used a 100 amp breaker here because it still is common to use it. I appreciate you watching!
Nice observation Sam. The NEC has a table that allows Residential panels exceptions for certain size cables. That #2 would have to be on a 90 Amp breaker if not for the Residential exception.
Josh, I designed electrical systems for 35 years. Have seen many RU-vid videos that truly should be banned from being shown. Your video is very well done! Actually excellent! There are a couple tiny points that are meant as constructive. 1. You said you were not going to torque the conductors because the inspector does not check for it. Wrong answer. You must do what is required by the manufacturer! The values required are on the door label. 2. At the end, you got overexcited,I think. Juice did not start flowing when you turned on the sub breaker, not the sub panel main breaker, not the branch breaker. Voltage potential did happen. The “Juice started flowing” (as it were) (amps) when you pulled the trigger on the saw, not before. Again great video! You should be proud of your achievement! Respectfully, Kevin
So my house had a pannel In the basement. Has a big 100 amp powering the rest of the pannel. No I wanna run a sub pannel in the attached garage for 240v for my heater. Now I already got a couple 30 and 40 amp breakers in main pannel. I don't know if I should be changing my main 100 amp to a bigger amp reading to accpect my 70 amp for the sub pannel?? Any input thanks
Question, so you do everything but HVAC on your builds, why is that? I feel that's a big money maker? Why not sub out electrical too? and plumbing? Etc etc. Be the builder who eventually gets to sit back, planning the next build and the next buid without having to bust his back anymore and racking in the money......
Believe it or not, I really do like working the trades. I never really got into the HVAC part. I'm not really sure why. I'm sure as I get older. I will definitely plan on subbing a lot out and making easy money. While I'm young and full of energy, I better keep it going. Thanks a lot for stopping by again!
Thank you so much for this video-you always do a phenomenal step-by-step breakdown. Quick question re: the junction box.- You could have ran #2 wire straight from your main panel to the sub panel, avoiding a junction box, right? Any reason why you did not do that? Thanks again!
You’re welcome! I was not sure where my garage was going to be located, but I wanted to get the wire in behind the drywall well I could do it easily. That is the primary reason I did the junction box set up. I hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Absolutely. I appreciate you showing real-world scenarios like this. Oftentimes videos show point A to point B perfection without any variables. Appreciate it!
