Back in the late 80's My best friend rewired the factory nightmare on my 66' charger. 4 red lighted 3 way toggle switches on a small acrylic panel. Each light operated independently of the other, that way i could "wink" at people going down the road. He also wired a taillight/ brake light "kill" switch so i could do stupid things while running from the cops. Hey don't judge me, It was a different world back then, cops actually appreciated a good run for their money back in the day, just so they could break the monotony of small town patrol boredom, and would usually give you a $15 tail light fix it ticket and send you on your way. Gotta love small town 🇺🇸 America ❤️👍🏻
The squeak has always drove me nuts. I finally greased every moving part and funny how grease makes them work so much better too. But they worked so good they slam shut with a bang. My 70 fury was so loud i used to scare small children. 😅 mommy that car tried to eat me😂
Man Jamie you’re a great Narrator and you make working on Mopars look easy. Not always the case but you are a true pro. Years from now people are going to travel far to bring their Mopar to you. 👍👍👍You deserve 🌮 😂
@@DeadDodgeGarage The best car I had was a 1978 Lincoln Mark V that had twilight Sentinel. I could turn off the car and get out and watch the covers go down.
Mid-week Video! And it's a tech video! My birthday isn't even until next month! Absolutely love the tech videos. I've had so many funky lighting condition occur on my old Mopars due to the floor mounted dimmer switch. Usually some intrusion of water makes its way down there and messes it up.
First repair when I bought my 72 back in the 90s. Headlight motor, only opened would not close, switched out the contact assembly from a crusty one. Still working fine
This will help a lot for my 1970 Fury III hideaway headlights saga. Previous owner had put "Sport Fury" bumper on but all the wires and relay were missing. Thank you Jamie! 😎
This is one of your better videos on wiring. I love hide-away headlights. Might I also suggest: 1) Use a relay socket instead of individual stab connectors. Once you wire the socket, you won't experience failures related to one of the wires falling off. Also easier when swapping relays. 2) Use a relay or socket with a mounting tab so you can use a sheet metal screw to attach it to the radiator support, firewall, or fender well. 3) Use loop connectors when you make chassis ground. This is a more secure connection. Vibration will make the stab connector loose and make the circuit flaky after a while. 4) Avoid using stab connectors for anything, because they tend to vibrate loose. (Vintage Bug driver talking.) 5) Make sure you use high quality tape for wrapping, or the heat will make the glue soft and the wrap will fail. 6) An alternative to tape wrap is plastic sleeving. Sleeve for this purpose is available in bulk in a variety of sizes, is more robust, and is easier to install than tape. Those motors look similar to windshield wiper motors. Is that similar to a MOPAR wiper motor? If so, you could have a source of parts for failed units. This type of gear motor with limit switches is also used to actuate ball valves used in factory process piping. I develop process automation and have used them on a few projects. You are right - Anything more complicated than two wires for this setup sounds crazy! Note that stab connectors are those flat connectors that we also use to connect to speakers. Thanks for another excellent vintage MOPAR video. Keep rescuing cool cars!
I definitely would have preferred a relay socket but he didn’t bring me one. I did mention in the video that I wanted one with a mounting hole, but again, I used what he brought. I did use loop connectors for my grounds. I always do. I prefer the Scotch electrical tape for the reasons you stated. I refuse to use that plastic wire wrap stuff. It looks so cheesy and doesn’t belong under the hood of a classic Mopar - but it works great. Thanks!
@@DeadDodgeGarage The plastic stuff I'm referring to isn't the spiral or accordion type. It's just a tube of plastic. It's not usually sold in stores. You have to go to grainger or something like that. I design wiring for machines and stuff - This is how I generally design a one-off wiring harness. Again, this is a really good video. Keep it up!
Thanks for the video. I remember back in the day--this would've been the late 80s, early 90's--I would go to the local pick-and-pull and grab these headlight motors from the big Chrysler land-yachts, those often had pop-up headlights and used the same motor. Some of them even had a protective rubber boot. I'm restoring my 1970 Charger I bought when I was 18 back in 1986 and I'm glad I have a few spare headlight motors in good condition, and my go-to motor has the rubber boot. Not for sale! :)
@@waynedavis7245 Thanks Wayne, in the long run, I *did* get lucky. I was dying to buy a Challenger back then but they were out of my price range. I looked at a 67 Charger, a 73 Charger with a 400 and 3-speed with fiberglass hood that reminded me of Corvette Summer and a gold 76 Fury, also with a 400, in great condition but it just wasn't speaking to me. I went with the puke-green 70 Charger with some rust issues but a strong 383 Magnum powertrain and looking back, I'm very glad I made that choice!
Had a 75 imperial with the same motor...it had to rebuilt and the little switches in it are fascinating. Once it was working, man it would slam those doors open and closed
I talked to a guy from Classic Industries about reproducing the hideaway headlight grill. Since relatively few 71-74 Chargers came with them, he expressed a belief that restorers would not need the grill. I told him that nearly every 71 -74 Charger owner WISHES he had a disappearing headlight grill, regardless of whether the car originally came with one. For example, 73-74 were not available with disappearing headlights. But many 73-74 Charger guys would like one as an upgrade. (the earlier set up is not a direct bolt on by the way) He seem intrigued. I suggest you call Classic Industries. He mentioned that they need three stock examples to engineer a prototype. I made similar arguments for the 72 Road Runner grill being desired for an 71-72 Satellite, Road Runner or GTX. Also, for the domed hood with center louvers for 71 Charge Super Bee and RT. I think headlight door motors are another highly desired item. Contact Classic Industries to make your preferences known.
No, it’s not a direct bolt on. One needs the entire bumper to make it happen. I may have indicated that was not the case once. Personally, I think we’ve called Classic industries enough… and I’ve seen enough of their parts to know that I wouldn’t want to pay them what they would definitely want for reproduction hideaway stuff.
@@DeadDodgeGarage What the stuff goes for on the open market is astronomical. Reproductions are going to be cheaper. Guys used to buy a whole 72 Road Runner to get a better grill, for example. I am talking decades ago when you could find one. And the motors are about 700 dollars. CI can't possibly charge that much. For 73-74 with earlier headlight door grills, It is more than just the bumper. Cutting, drilling, and welding is needed. I have one of each and there are major differences behind the bumper.
I'm into old Mercedes-Benzes. We face a similar issue with these cars. American market models came with sealed beam headlights. It's almost always desirable to retrofit them with European A4 halogen lights. The exception, of course, is if it's a rare car, like a valuable "pagoda top" 280SL coupe.
@@auteurfiddler8706 we used the ‘73 brackets due to the frame difference. We slotted the mount holes to eliminate the bumper spacer. Then bolted them onto the factory hideaway bumper and installed it on the car. Done.
I always liked the electric motor, the hideaways worked flawlessly on my 70 charger 500, I always liked that they worked in unison unlike the vacuum ones on my 68's and 69's same thing on my 69 corvette, wish they worked in unison.
Identical to my 78 Magnum triple black 360 console car.Damn I miss that car.Bias plys and rain don't mix.Things you do when your young and stupid.Rest In Pieces my love.
@richardbates2367 Yep and also they went to hinge springs for the hood instead of the torsion slider design.They cheapened them up that last year.But don't get me wrong any Magnum from either year would make me happy.
Seriously you deserve a solid gold Charger one you can actually drive for you years of deadication to the dearly departed Chrysler offerings of yesteryear thankfully you and some others make them come back to life!!!! And remember if your car is dead do like I do, blame your brother!
I’ve been looking forever how to hook up mine with an American Autowire harness (as the instructions say this harness is NOT compatible with hideaway headlights)!! Thank you!!! just went out to get a fused wired and relay switch. One more step closer to finish the complete rewiring of my 72 charger!!!
Tippety Tip Tip: Use 3M Scotch "yellow label" electrical tape when wrapping up harnesses [unless very old vehicle in which case friction tape] . For some reason the yellow label stuff is easier and nicer to work with and doesn't devolve to sticky-where-you-don't-want-it-sticky snot over time.
Ok, funny story, I’m rewiring a 1942 Dodge from head to toe right now (future video) and I literally just finished wrapping the engine compartment harness in that very tape. I’m going to include that tip in the video. Thanks!
i'm sussing this issue but with a 67 charger and you're right, the relays and stuff are pretty involved. i did find a guy who rebuilds these motors, now i ave to decide if its worth putting that much time and money into vs, rolling them over with my hands when it gets dark hahaha.
I went with that second method for quite a while. Haha. One of my motors was good but the relays and the big connector by the battery were all bad. Years into owning the car I bought a second ‘66 and stole its one good motor. With that in hand I finally replaced the relays, jumped around that stupid connector and got everything working. And it was glorious.
A Mopar fanatic told me the biggest mistake guys make with the wiring is assuming that the two wires to the motor exist as power and ground. While both are power and the ground is through the case. He says that is the cause of motors failing, miswiring. In my opinion, it is the gears stripping that kills the motors.
Not that I sports at all, but for a slightly less gooey-sticky experience like when electrical tape ages and begins to fall apart.... instead, try Hockey Stick tape!! A little more expensive, yes, but it's made of cloth and whatever they use to bond adhesive to it - it sticks very nicely and doesn't fall apart for many years. Gives a nice matte, fibre feeling to home made wiring harnesses (something I'm pretty adept at if I do say so myself). Anywho, there's you hockey stick tape tip of the day! Do I have to say "ICE" Hockey specifically for the American audience??
I knew which kind of hockey you meant. Haha. Interesting idea. But the gooey stuff looks like factory wiring. And if you get the nice Scotch stuff it’s not so gooey.
I'm surprised how simple that setup is, which should make it fairly reliable. I remermber someone in high school had a 69 Charger, and it seemed like those vacuum activated doors were always giving him trouble. Sometimes they wouldn't close, or not close all the way, sometimes they wouldn't open, etc. Of course he had messed up his grille by rear-ending a van so that didn't help. He ran the grille right into the bumper on the van. It wasn't terrible, just bent things a little, but it was apparently just enough to goof up the headlight doors. On the 66-67, didn't the entire headlight assembly rotate? I can see where that is very complicated and a lot more expensive. And prone to a lot of trouble if the grille gets bent or deformed. I think the Mopar bean counters did everyone a favor on that feature when they went to the simpler and cheaper drop down doors.
That’s awesome with the hideaway headlights! Dodge should’ve kept them as an option until the end of 1974, especially since the charger had all the other luxury options like gold shag carpet. In my opinion, Chrysler made a lot of poor decisions with dropping options in the early 70’s.
awesome video as usuall , mine did eat the plastic wheel , can you please make a video of how to adjust the stop limits . i heard you can't test them without load and thats excatly what i did 1 month before installing it !
There really isn’t any much adjusting them that I could see. Perhaps some very fine adjustment of the contacts. But I hope to not have to do deal with that any time soon. The rubber stops for the doors are somewhat adjustable.
For the fuselage or coke bottle b body charger the version of the 73 ish that would have been hideaway headlights would be a 71-72 rt charger right Jamie sir..
The hideaways were optional and not standard on any package as far as I know. R/T was gone after ‘71, so then it would have been the Rallye for ‘72. But again, they weren’t standard on that car either.
Hi, I have a question. I did it exactly how you got it done, but my light engine is getting to be really hot. Its opening and closing how it should but when lights are closed, engine is heating a lot. I have no clue what to do with it ...
Your motor cancel switch isn’t breaking contacts when it closes. You will have to remove the cover from the headlight opening motor and adjust them. Getting those working right was kind of a pain - but ours had been mangled and was missing parts.
That is a video I've been hoping someone would put out. Would your wiring set up for the relay replace the original relay in a car whose system is otherwise intact? My '79 Dodge St. Regis has the identical setup but a relay that only works part of the time. I want to rig up something I can plug into the factory wiring for the old relay.
Absolutely. You can essentially substitute the modern relay for the original style without issue, but you’ll have to add a ground wire as the original relay was internally grounded. You will have to figure out which wire is which to connect to the new relay. If the original wiring is in a plastic holder, you can usually de-pin them and pop them right on the new relay. I’ve done this before for horn relays. No big deal.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing the St. Regis open and close its headlight doors with a nice loud thunk. (the rubber bumpers are missing) The old relay would intermittently work but also begin howling in protest once the lights were on. Got a second old relay, it wasn't any better.
Sir i live in south eastern Illinois. Probably a little out of your way for you Tennessee trip but if you get out this way and need any help I would do what ever I could to help. I am retired so my schedule is very flexible. Please let me know if there is anything I can do to help.
Violent Doors sounds. LoL Not sure if id prefer Black board nails scratchs or dinnerware fork scrubings. Oh, I got it, over thightened wheel nuts! That's my favorite red cragars sounds! Baaahahahahahahaha !!!😂
@@DeadDodgeGarage I totally understand. I'm just saying if someone needed to fix it and couldn't find the part, or couldn't afford it, it's a possible option.
You ever sit and wonder how many electrical issues could have been avoided, had auto manufactures ran a proper ground wires to components instead of relying on luck that the magic pixies would find their own path back to the battery?
Haven’t yet… it’s easy to understand why they didn’t do a lot of things when you consider that their intended lifespan for these cars was like five years max.
WIRING AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH no idea why people get in a tizzy over it. Unless if you are trying to track down something that goes into a giant harness and changes colors 10 times its really sooo sooo easy. Well till you have to get under the dash that just sucks.
