How To Work On A Steep Roof: The Right Tools & Tips 

yeah i dont have any expertise but even that looked very bad

He knows what he is doing. If your scared, don't go up a ladder :)

Noticed the same

If i recall correctly, for every 3 feet up, its 1 foot away from where its leaning on

​​​@@2004jessiehsClose! Every 4 feet up, 1 out. An easy way to test it is to stand up straight at the bottom and extend your arms forward. Generally, even with people's different arm lengths, your fully extended arm going directly straight out (not at an angle other than 90 degrees) should land right on the ladder without requiring your arms or body to bend to properly grab it. If, from the base of the ladder, you noticably can't fully extend your arm or you need to bend over some to reach the rung nearest to your extended arm, it's probably at a bad angle. Stay safe out there yall!! Much love!

I really hope nobody follows this guys safety setup or advice . Go out and work and make money but be safe. 1. Ladder is not correlating with angle to distance 2. It's not tied off 3. The pendulum swing on his harness going to the edge is bad judgement not tripping over the rope part. 4. Correct fall protection should be discussed here. , his harness is on so wrong if he fell with the pendulum swing his nuts are going through his shoulders and he would be in painnnnnn

That ladder setup is perfectly fine. The flat rock pavers are holding it in place. I've seen workers safely use ladders at almost a 90° angle with nothing at the base. U guys too dramatic and have no balls.

Good tip, scratches gutters less too...

Exactly. Not a very useful example.

Thanks Salim! Yeah I been getting this question so much I knew it was time haha

That's not a steep roof. I could walk on my hands on a 4/12

they will both kill ur plants when washed off the roof lmao

Call 911? :)

There’s a life line with a lanyard connected to it check out how a lanyard works it can save your life but that harness can also kill you if you hang for too long

You guys don't know how to use harnesses. Don't give yourself so much slack in the rope that you go past the edge of the roof. You shouldn't ever be dangling

Rent a crane.

You'd have to make it to the anchor unattached. Or use the over the house rope method to safely get to the anchor.

Maybe don't pull hard on it if it's connected to the other side? But then what if you want to do gutters on both sides...also you can't go near the gable, regardless? This is discussed a little in the comments here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KVxaNyPHYnE.html

Use an anchor far enough away from the building so the safety rope will not crush the gutter if a worker falls.

If your looking to get your roof replaced, contact a trustee Roofing Contractor so they can work with your insurance and try to get it covered. Some of those guys can work some serious magic and can make a huge difference in terms of HOW Much an adjuster is willing to give you to replace your roof/gutters etc.

as long as your wife doesn't drive off while you are up there

​@@ventilaralmao

@@ventilara Locally there was a situation where that exact thing happened to a guy working on a roof!

I did yeah! I do bjj and just lift for fun now

@@SpencerClaeys yeah you could definitely tell bro, I did swimming and track and I’m trying to grow out my muscles.

What's bjj?

@@marandamurphy Brazilian jui-jitsu

@@welshwazza9916 says the guy making comments about things that don't concern him🙃

You are correct, with such a big roof there should be more than one anchor point. However I don’t think he’d hit the ground but someone would have to come to his rescue as he’d be stuck hanging over the edge. It is hassle to install tie downs when you’re trying to make a quick buck. He should consider talking to his clients about installing permanent anchors so he can work on their roofs safely in the futures

​@@Luke-Matthewthis is something I'm interested in for my roof, do you recommend any certain type of permanent anchor?

Permanent anchor points are a fantasy as they need to be certified annually by a qualified person. No homeowner is going that.

I've been on a 12/12. No reason not to be safe when you're up on any roof.

You put it under the shingle behind the tar line. It ruins nothing.

Anything 4/5x heavier than you will do. And what you connect to needs to be something like the axle/rear differential. But any truck chassis should do.

@@cole141000 I'm alive. It worked!

I've used a tree, a metal fence post... then just fling the safety line over the other side, attach to harness, climb my ladder and clean out my chimney.

I gotchu Brad!

​@@SpencerClaeysI used to clean high rise windows, as well as lots of ladder work, and unfortunately you are not using this equipment properly at all, a simple fall restraint course would teach you to use it, and it's obvious you haven't been certified (at least at this time) or else you would never post this. You should clarify the fall restraint system you are using, especially since it's sadly clear that you are expecting it to perform a fall arrest, which that anchor is not designed for. That rope should be much more work to deal with, as it needs to prevent you from being able to go over the edge. Even when I did high rise window cleaning, we had to use fall restraint before going over the edge, meaning we would not risk a dynamic load, until we were no longer able to, meaning after we go over the edge of the building. If you were about to fall over the edge, this system will not prevent your egress, meaning you are going to drop, creating a dynamic load several times greater than the 100 or so pounds of static load these anchors are designed for (500lbs after 5 to 1 safety factor). They are not designed to hold someone's weight, they are designed for someone to fall, that creates a dynamic load of your entire 150 body accelerated, which often exceeds 500 pounds. I'm sure you've installed these anchors, so you should know how static load is protected against, that anchor is held in by a few nails that can be jerked out all at once, but is designed with a metal plate to protect it from a static load of fall restriction. If this video got to your local safety regulators I can assure you they will give you a ticket for this. They are not going to allow you pretend a fall restraint system is going to act to arrest your fall, and even if it could arrest your fall, they certainly require you to use fall restraint anyways because the falling there with fall arrest will still likely cause injury. Simply walk out to the center edge, and line up your rope grab so your body can't create more than a 3 foot dynamic surge, so if your feet slipped over the edge your rope is short enough that your ass won't ever fall past the edge. Once you go past that you risk injury, which regulations state you must prevent. The ladder is also an issue as many here noted, I see what you did but odds of your ladder tipping on your climb is super high, I've seen in happen since we also do a ton of risky ladder work cleaning windows. In this situation just put it against the fence, and climb on to it. I've had much more awkward spots than that, you need to have the base far enough out so that there is pressure on the wall, which you don't have. Even if you tie it you are relying on that tie to hold it, which is again not legal. The only problem having it further out is the bottom can slip out, and while it's possible an inspector will be a dick and ticket you for having out too far even propped against a fence, since the fence wood can break from a ladder kicking, you clearly had a good angle here. Portable ladders are not designed to be used like permanent ladders, there is no fixed point at the top, and you can't just tie a rope or whatever and call it fixed. This is more than just safety regs, I was the safety rep for my company, we had people getting hurt and countless near missing from this type of work day in day out. A good safety video, which I would applaud you for uploading, should also include the procedure for tying off. You should be able to climb the ladder with your hands free, we did that with 300 foot safety and work lines together, and you should immediately walk up to the anchor and tie off, then immediately measure off your rope grab so that you are restricted from falling, ergo fall restriction. Then show them how to get to the corners safely, since you won't be able to reach with the full length of your rope measured to the sides. Obviously it should just be muscle memory to add slack on your rope grab, and then once you finish the corner go back to the center to set your rope, then back out. Every job is different, but yours is a great example of one where you have to be good at this to have a successful business with employees being safe, and I would not trust you whatsoever, and I don't mean this as a slight, I was just one of people educated in this very misunderstood system. To the untrained eye this looks fine, you are tied off, but you aren't using fall restraint properly, it's clear you don't have a fall restraint certificate or you aren't applying it's principles to your work. No offense 😂 I know better than most how annoying this stuff is, we had to watch as other window cleaners just broke the law and walked on roofs just like we did when I first started. We lost a lot of work because home owners didn't want to install anchors, which we learned to do, also that's why I know how and why those anchors will probably save you from a fall, but aren't designed to, and can fail to save your limbs and life without the manufacturer being responsible. Even if it saves the fall, you are smashing shins if not foreheads against the building as you slip over the edge. Rule of thumb, land on your bum.

Please explain.

I almost never install one I always try and work WITH the roof

I don’t do if it has one great if not I’ll tie up on the ground on the opposite side

You can look up how to place temporary anchors but make sure to research how to repair and replace the shingles. Most work by lifting a row of top shingles nailing to under layer then when your done you caulk the nail holes and replace the shingle that you removed

@@derrickjohnson9692 You also keep the nail in the hole, or replace the nail in the hole before caulking!

How do you get the rope over the roof to the opposite side?@@SpencerClaeys

He mentioned in another comment blue is laundry detergent white is zinc :)

Lol

they make a partially sewn loop attachment that will snap and help reduce the impact of the fall

True yup. Be careful out there

Birds should clean roofs instead of poopin on them :D

Safety gear yes/no?

@@RogerPack Maybe. Depends.

Yes, but many jurisdictions require that they be engineered and inspected annually by an engineer.

24 foot should work

Harness and rope are like $150 and brushes like $7 for 1.

@@DippedInTheSauce do you have a recommendation for the brush or know what Spencer uses in his videos?

You can lift up shingles and screw them in. My guess is this one is kind of permanently already screwed in, based on his other comments. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tcFoM4dg5kE.htmlsi=D1GvF3dHqAD-JQfg

Yeah make sure you’re licensed and insured, probably only 1 out of every 50 people ask though

No license needed

@@jollyranch1026 not true. You need a state/local Business license

Boots are made by Brunts and you can get some harnesses at lowes or Home Depot for around $150 depending on where you live

Thanks man! The Marin by Brunt, been a fan since I first got them. And yeah I get most of it from Home Depot but yeah I have some other videos planned on that sort of thing 👍

A lot of people also suggest the wave/deck boots made by Huk, they’re $30-$50 cheaper than the Brunt’s and supposed to be super sticky

@@fingolfin9086 Havent tried these before but they have a unique bottom design ive never seen. Perhaps ill give them a try especially them being a little cheaper on the dollar!