My 4 year old son faithfully watches your show! Richard is his favorite. His current favorite videos are any of the toilet repairs, gas line, hvac and leaky duct work. Richard, he doesn’t believe you’re real, he thinks you only exist on RU-vid. Thanks for your clean, informative videos that provide great content for my little guy. Melissa from Wyoming
About forty something years ago, I moved my gas fired water heater from inside the house to an outside heater closet. My then brother-in-law had a whole cart for making gas pipes including a manual thread making jig. Because money was tight back then, I did it myself by reading "how to" books (the internet wasn't born yet). That house is still standing by the way, after I sold it about 30 years ago.
He keeps talking about "the old days" like we aren't still out here cutting and threading pipe. We only buy 21 foot sticks and nipple trays. More couplings = more potential leaks, more $$$ in fittings.
If I had to guess, he chose to use the fitting route to make it seem as complicated as possible. This video is pretty obviously an attempt to talk people out of doing it themselves. That’s why there was no information about how to calculate proper sizing.
really it is the old days here in Canada, everyone uses copper tubing and orange gas rated teflon tape for the copper connectors, but still prefer black pipe like I was showed 40 years ago.
I’ll be damned if I am going to piece pipes together with various couplings to make a certain length of pipe. I have the most basic of ancient pipe threading tools, but I’ll hand thread before I install unnecessary fittings. I may not be a pro, but the shit is going to look professional if I do it.
In the UK we use mainly copper and solder fitting. Which mean the tightness test is done over a shorter time period. But it is fascinating to see how other countries do things
Having enough volume and pressure being delivered to the appliance means everything with gas. Before I retired in 2016, I worked for the gas utility company in Baltimore. Sometimes we'd have a distribution problem when a large building converted from oil or coal to gas and a larger service pipe was tapped into the main to supply the new heating plant. Occasionally, there would be too much demand on the main between the new and existing customers when the new heating system would cut on and the main pressure would drop too low from insufficient gas volume. We'd then have to do a system reinforcement installation to boost the gas supply requiring either a larger main being laid for the new service or tapping a nearby higher pressure main and installing a pressure regulator station and back feed main tapped into the old main near the customer's service pipe. The same is true with a building having multiple gas appliances - you have to have the correct size pipe so that each appliance gets a sufficient supply of gas volume at the pressure required even when all the appliances are operating at the same time.
I remember my dad having me use his manual pipe threader a number of times.....a few drops of oil every full turn and stop after so many threads shown out the end the threader...
What old days, we still cut and thread gas pipe all the time. Also when checking for a leak use kids bubbles. They work better than solutions you buy from supply houses.
A pipe threading machine is only a few thousand in case anyone was wondering. My local home depot always says the machine they have in store is broken so I wouldn't rely on them too much.
I've found very poor skill levels at nearby Home Depot and Lowes stores. Look around and use USA pipe for gas. The tapered pipe thread needs to be correct because its fit is a large part of the gas sealing equation (along with your sealant).
Gee Rich, in the old days the old timers didn't screw around with soap, they'd just use their torch flame to leak check, plus it would bake the dope in ensuring a leak free joint.
I just replaced a faulty (as in old and frozen) cut off valve to a space heater. Installed new brass cut off and made up a manifold with nipples and tees for a pressure test port, try additional cut off valves and BIP to new space heater. Checked and no leaks. Everything works great. Ran out of pipe dope on the last three connections so I used some Bondo. Great stuff that Bondo! Really handy! LOL. Just kidding! Just thought I'd let a few heads explode! LOL
You should do a diy on how to cut in a lasco BLACK R&L NIPPLE,COUPLING and TEE for installation of a gas line addition on a pre-existing gas line in a homeowners home for maybe a natural gas or propane fireplace,bbq or even a laundry dryer gas line. Cutting in a R&L nipple and TEE on pre-existing gas lines doing remodeling can be daunting if you don't know how to make a job easier and more cost effective and their is no need to cut a lot of holes from one end of the house and removing pipe near the location your going to be adding a gas line addition in your home, you just cut a hole close to your remodeling location and cut in a R&L nipple, coupling and TEE also go over how adding a gas line can change you BTU's at your gas meter and make sure a license Plumber or contractor is using proper code for their City and state guidelines. 🤓
This cat is talking about the old days of cutting, threading pipe....there is a 2 year old Ridgid pipe cutter threader in our shop we use all the time. Buy the 21 ft sticks to save money, less fittings mean less chance of leaks. Lose those unnecessary couplings
Question for a knowledgeable gas plumber out there.... Is it OK to use tees exclusively throughout the entire network of gas pipes INSTEAD of using elbows where you need to make a turn?? In other words, wherever I need an elbow, I'd rather use a tee to make that turn and use a plug in that extra port. Future expansion is my thinking here. Please advise...thanks!
Would have been good if you had included left-right threaded coupling and nipple for modifying existing piping systems without having to disassemble everything.
Been my experience going to HD, lucky to find a person that can cut Gas or other pipe custom. Had to walk out one day because I was uncertain the threads were good. If you are going to thread it has to be correct. HD needs a dedicated person the the plumbing isle.! Make it so HD because it has to be So.. I have a clue the issue is that many walking into centers like these do not.
@@spydergs07 if they are a professional what are they doing working in a HD? they can make way more on the outside. those places call them professionals but most are not and the few that were i'd question
@@Handygrrl I appreciate the comment but cross training only goes so far. I'm running gas in a line, I need someone that knows that threading machine inside and out. The associate that I worked with as you said was trained but was not 100% comfortable with the task and rightly so. Some tasks in a home improvement store need a little more then cross training. It just is what it is and I know what to look for, for those that do not, it's an issue.
Copper can be used (and generally) when a line has to Ron underground such as a slab. Connections CANNOT be soldered because of the Kaboom factor. You must use flared mechanical fittings which are expensive.
I want a tee right in the middle of a 18 inch straight section coming out of the ground (there’s an elbow and then it goes into the house). How do yo do that? Is there like a gas pipe union fitting?
I know they try to keep these vids short but they didn't cover unions. Years ago when I did some remodeling, I used a union to connect to the existing gas piping and when the inspector saw it he failed it because local code (Oakland Ca.) doesn't allow unions but rather left, right couplings for that type of connection.
galvanized should not be used in gas applications. the odorant that makes gas smell like rotten eggs will react with the galvanizing and cause corrosion on the inside of the pipe that cant be seen till it leaks
HI there. Is it ok to paint a gas pipe that runs from ouside into my kitchen ceiling onto the fireplace? It's black and made of metal, so I assume it's steel or black iron. I can see it and it does not look pretty! But I think painting it in white or silver will improve its look a lot. At least it will remove the nasty fingerprints it has from installation. Not sure if it's safe, if it needs a primer and what kind of paint to buy. I can't use spray paint as I do not want to paint the ceiling. Any tips would be truely apprecited.
The fact that we are not teaching the newbies to properly thread pipe etc. needs to change. All of the new tech of press fit etc is perfectly fine and welcome, but, the art of pipe fitting needs to be maintained.
I'd like to see the press fit in 15, 20, 30 or more years. It's not made for that, So what, I'm supposed to re-pipe my home every twenty years. Time goes by fast. I don't like the distortion (i.e. stress points) imparted to the copper pipe with ProPress for instance.
If anyone can answer.. he stated as you move through the house to each appliance the correct way is to drop the size of your pipe is that correct or should I stay with 1 inch pipe throughout
"If anyone can answer.. he stated as you move through the house to each appliance the correct way is to drop the size of your pipe is that correct or should I stay with 1 inch pipe throughout" The standard is to down size the diameter of the pip you use the further you get from the source because you will need less gas for appliances at the end of the run than you will in the middle. Example: if you have 6 appliances total and you need to supply gas to 4 appliances between the source and the middle of the run, you will need bigger diameter pipe to carry the gas flow for the first 4 than you will for he last 2. That being said, there is also nothing wrong with running the large diameter pipe from the source to the end. Then you can install a tee for each appliance and then use a bushing to reduce the diameter of the pipe to each appliance that will carry the amount of gas that appliance needs. It will cost a little more but you will save time by not needing to figure out what diameter of pipe to downsize to each time you attach another appliance to the supply pipe.
What are you calling "pex"? Pex in the states is what plumbers use for water lines. If you're talking about CSST that stuff isn't worth running in a chicken coupe let alone inside a house or business
@@ChrisGilliamOffGrid who's putting nails so far through a floor/wall to penetrate in to hidden pipes/cables? Just a suggestion, but maybe only let professionals work in your property
@@MrPaulb1978 I don't have that option. I'm just a plumber/handyman, the contractors will have his own electricians and carpenters on jobs where I don't do it all myself.
based on pipe size, length, and supply needed. engineer/plumber should size it, make a drawing with all the calculations and file it with city where it should get several checks. at least here in nyc they want you to be about the right size to make sure you don't add things after the fact. also safety, if there was a leak, you aren't bringing an unnecessarily large pipe for no reason.
Great video! Not a lot of good resources on here for this topic. Three wrap tape + dope =winning connection. In hindsight, CSST would have been better due to the time to cut and thread everything.
I have a gas pipe that runs into my fireplace. Unfortunately it does not appear to be connected. I would like to find where the source side is either capped or turned off via a valve somewhere. The entire wall is brick and I have tried using my Walabot stud finder to trace the pipe, but without success. Is there a gas pipe locator device that I can rent somewhere to try and locate the place where the gas is turned off?
Not first. Interesting story. A friend, rental units owner and remodeler, almost killed himself. Working on pressurized gas, took a cap off, did not plug it right away, turned around and grabbed another fitting. Apparently it took longer than he expected. He made up the connection, then the gas settled to the water heater, whoosh, blew out a couple of windows and singed his eyebrows; he is bald. No real damage, so, he thinks it is funny.
Must have been LP (Propane) as it is heavier than air. Natural Gas is lighter than air and can fill the house. I think that is why you see more houses blown completely to pieces when there is a Natural Gas leak.
If I was to make a bigger gas burner for my barbecue like twice the size does that mean I would get twice the heat on my way Weber BBQ so I could make my own serious stashen
You need to check your codes, In Canada copper pipe was used for natual gas for decades. Easier to use, bend and make sure to use double flaired. Many many less fittings to leak. Get the point!
Copper can fail easier and is much easier to damage. We have houses 40+ years old whose gas lines have never once had an issue. My wife and my house is 59 years old and all of the steel gas lines still look and function perfect. Just had it pressure tested last year and it still works perfect
A union is used when you can’t thread “spin” the pipe into a coupling. The union only requires that you spin the nut rather than an entire section of pipe and everything attached to it.
A coupling joins two sections of pipe together, and is not meant to be removed regularly. A union is a mechanical fitting that allows the appliance, regulator or valve to be serviced.
3:05 said we need to start from the source to the appliance. can i do the opposite? what is the down side for doing it so? I am adding a pipe for the cook top.
If you started at the cooktop and worked towards the main you'd be fighting the threads at the last connection. As you tighten the pipe into the main it would unthread the previous connection. A union would take care of that problem but if you don't absolutely need a union don't install one, just start at the source as stated in the video.
@@qicoocooqi1026 If you have to do a pressure test with a gauge instead of a leak test with soap solution just shut off the gas cocks at each appliance that uses gas and shut off the gas meter.You'll probably need the gas company or a plumber to disconnect the meter and cap off the line coming into the house, or put your test gauge at that point. Disconnect any unions at the other appliances so if their gas cock leaks any air used for the pressure test won't stress the appliance's regulator.
why not copper/plastic/flexi? If it was this much work is Australia all the gas plumbers would quit as it would be to much work. Major gas lines are plastic, copper to the house, copper on the exterior of the house, plastic or copper in the house then flexi to the appliances.
All piping and fittings must be of the right type and should be pressure tested and checked to code (this catches wrong materials, methods and future problems).
Man, I was thinking the same thing but HEY these guys are supposed to be the experts. Those short sections of pre-threaded pipe are also quite expensive compared to the 2-foot lengths sold at supply houses. Then there are all the nipples and unions. In my mind every junction is just another potential leaking point.
EOSJOE not to mention that each fitting has an assigned pipe length equivalent. Basically a 1” ell it equivalent to approximately 5ft of straight pipe due to turbulence created in the fitting, couplings are far less but still worth mentioning when being this precise. In my opinion a min of 1” should be ran as a main trunk and branches to appliances should be run in 3/4 right up to the fitting before the control valve which can reduce to 1/2” which is the standard inlet size for most appliances. This may be overkill but you would be surprised at how much money it can save you if you want to add another appliance in the future.
Pete's Garage who said anything about using “a bunch of couplings”? In his example he uses one coupling. If you’re plumbing an entire building, of course you would cut and thread pipe. But if you are doing a small job or a repair, there is nothing wrong with using a few couplings.
If all gas lines must be done by a licensed plumber then what is the point of explaining how it is done?! Unless this video is for plumbers aspiring licensing. It was helpful, don;t get me wrong - I am thankful for it. I just do not see why should I be paying $4000 asked by a local plumber to run 50-60 ft. piping from a rooftop unit to the outside meter when I can do it just as well and then call them to run permitted pressure test for quarter of that price.
If you do install your own gas line make sure you get a professional out to at least do a pressure test. It's done to make sure there are no leaks in the pipe connections. $80 bill is a lot better that $300+
@@eosjoe565 I connected the main gas line myself after installing all the pipe. Before I did I called a licensed pro. Roto rooter to be exact. They did the pressure test then I hooked the gas up. Then I called the gas company to just turn on the gas. Which they did for free since I had a signed paper sayng I passed the pressure test. I think I got a cheaper deal than having the gas company do it.
I keep forgetting I am in canada Ontario. Its highly used here and there have been no problems..I only use gastite as I read with trac pipe it's not as good...like anything proper installation is key
It doesn't make sense to have all those unions on small sections of pipe when you could simply cut and thread the correct length of pipe. It also seems like it would really drive up the cost of the project. Short pieces of pre-threaded pipe are very expensive. I paid like $7.99 for a 4-foot piece and a 10-foot piece was $11.00. The 20-foot lengths sold by plumbing supply houses would reduce the per-foot cost even more. Not to mention the cost of all those nipples and unions.
@@DONALD1951 Perhaps... but he clearly said "In the old days we used to have this machine..." and then showed the pipe threading machine followed by saying "Now days they have the pipes all available in pre-cut lengths". Clearly suggesting that they don't bother to cut pipes to the proper length anymore.
you usually don’t bother cutting & threading pipe unless you’re doing long lengths like new construction, when putting in a new water heater or a new furnace you just do precut lengths it makes the job much quicker and easier
Can I run a gas line vertically to the attic then horizontally to the back of my house then back down ? Or does a natural gas line need to be run on a downward slope as much as possible?
"Why am I learning how to do this if I need a licensed professional for a install of 12 feet more? 🤔" Because that 12 feet or more could be running through the walls of your house, under the floor if it has a pier and beam foundation, or in the foundation if you have a slab-on-grade foundation and floor. So unless you want to tear out the wall or rip up the floor or crawl in the 12 to 18 inch space under your floor to replace that much gas line, a licensed professional might be worth the cost. Lots of nasty stuff between the floor and the ground under a pier and beam construction and the air is dank. If you are willing to do that, just do not let the government inspector hear what you are doing. In other words, do not tell your friends to brag about how good a job you did and how much money you saved doing it yourself.
The title should be how gas pipe is used, not how to work with it. I don’t see anything on assembly or torque, or applying thread sealant. Lay it on a table, and turn it on! Lol. I still love this show.
I wondered about that. It can't be rocket science. I'm just replacing my propane stove and want to connect the fittings properly. It doesn't seem that complicated.
@@madphatdopeyo742 It is simple work but plenty of DIY experts blow themselves up every year. Plenty of things they show are absolutely not DIY. You have to know how to do math for the proper diameter size of pipe needed to give proper volume of gas for needed BTU. It isn't just slapping pipes together
@@zack9912000 Exactly. He explained that the initial sizing is critical to get right for proper performance and pressure testing. Venting is another critical aspect that DIYers can get wrong with deadly consequences. A famous retired tennis pro died from carbon monoxide poisoning from an improperly vented gas heater. Imagine killing your friend because you wanted to save a few bucks. Hire a pro to do the work or to verify your work.
@@seabass22 That’s fine with a one to one replacement but code may have changed and the old devices may not meet it. If there’s a life and death hazard, do your research... don’t be lazy and risk your loved one’s life.
Nice job Richard, always wished you were in our area. But "always use a licensed gas fitter" unfortunately is a license to steal. Yes there are fair and honest plumbing and heating contractors but I will not walk away with 100% margin on parts and $600 labor for say, changing out a simple water heater. And this license to steal is reinforced by codes in many areas (MA, are you listening) and even by supply houses. Especially today, people do not have unlimited resources and cannot blindly call a licensed contractor and pay fees and permits for menial tasks. That said, if you don't know gas code for your project, fittings and methods, call a pro. If you fear gas, it's ok. You should fear gas but I think many gas disasters you see were orchestrated by pros, either excavating or poor installation. Always leak test and always keep a clear head when working with it.
_gas should always be done by a licensed professional_ is a CYA statement. you think this old house is trying to pay out every dingus that uses a brass y fitting, for water with little crappy valves, connected to some old PVC they jammed over it then used a copper elbow with a hose from a vacuum that is duct taped on it? no? it's almost like the production company knows what it is doing. so how about hiring Cousin Benson's buddy to run the pipe and it all looks tip top? but he is a barber, no license to lay pipe in your house. you have a little kablewy and suddenly the guest bed is in the neighbor's Lexus. i don't think the insurance company is giving the barber coverage in that situation, that's your responsibility to pay for a new Lexus, a new bed, a new guest bedroom, and a new gas line. man, it's almost like this 40+ year old show knows what they are talking about. in fact, it's almost like they have been making a show about renovation advice for years and they aren't reading your comment and thinking "shucks, why didn't we know that? let's hire that feller o'er there from the you tubes, when can do all of our jobs better and people really want tho hear information that was just repeated 65 times in the same place before they say it"
They scare me, gas piping. We have propane, that's what we chose over electric furnace. My wife wants to replace the electric stove with a propane gas stove. Thanks for the video. Matt
theyre building a new house next to me right now. they are cutting pipe like they did in "the old days" today. usually like these guys. maybe he should stick to plumbing .
