How to Zone a Hose Bib Drip System 

Are you thinking of adding the Y splitter to the timer's outlet so that it splits the outlet into two directions? If so, that is acceptable (you'll want to make sure you have the flow to support both sides of course) and you might even be able to do it in a way that costs less. You could have your Faucet --> Timer --> Head Assembly --> Faucet Y Splitter --> Threads x Tubing Adapter (1193 on our website). That would effectively split the run into two separate directions, but you'd only need one head assembly. It would also allow each individual run to be under the length limitations (still want to make sure the water source can provide enough GPH to feed both sides though). Both sides would water at once (which technically makes it one zone, but that's ok) with just one head assembly :) If I misunderstood anything, don't hesitate to reply here and let me know, happy to help!

Thank you this is exactly what I was meaning. I believe with the emitters and GPH calculations from your other videos it would work this way. I did buy your 2 zone head assembly just in case. I was unsure if those could go behind one timer and run at the same time though. I think I am understanding this better now though. If the GPH doesn’t allow them to run at the same time I would need a new timer that splits the 2 head assemblies so they would run at different times to make up for the GPH. If I am misunderstanding please let me know. Thank you so much for your awesome informative videos. They are really helping me understand a lot!

@@TheProdigalGardener You got it exactly right! If the water source cannot provide enough GPH for it all to run at once, you zone it exactly like you suggested :) On the head assembly parts -- the reason they cannot come before the timer is due to "constant pressure." The parts are not rated for constant pressure so have to be relieved when the system is not in use. There are some that are rated for constant pressure, but they're all larger and pipe threaded, meaning you have to use a lot of adapters to get them connected to a hose bib. It basically ends up costing about the same (or more until 3 zones) but has more points of possible issues due to all the adapters. It sounds like your planning and understanding is coming along very nicely! You're welcome to reach out here (or to us on our website) if any questions come up while you finalize things, I'll be absolutely happy to help.

@@dripdepot Thank you so much for your help! I really appreciate you!

Lisa, I'll be happy to help! You can ask questions any time throughout the process if you get stuck on anything -- never hesitate to reach out, it's how all of us learned too :) Are you allowed to put anything on the easement? Not a structure and not even necessarily anything permanent, I was thinking more along the lines of running tubing over the easement? If so, that would be the best bet as you could build the multi-zone head assembly at the hose bib, though you'd have a few lines of tubing running over the easement. The reason that's normally important is that most hoses are not rated for constant pressure, so in the proposed setup of running the hose to the garden and then installing the timer there, that hose would always be under pressure, which can cause them to quickly wear out -- if it ruptures at a bad time and isn't noticed, it can make a big mess. If you do have a hose that's rated for constant pressure, your plan is absolutely viable :) If you're not sure (it's not often they say if they are or not), I'd contact the manufacturer to ask, or even to recommend which one they have that is rated for constant pressure. Basically -- your plan can work, but make sure to get a hose that's rated for constant pressure -- then, at the garden, install the timer first (the valve in the timer can handle constant pressure) and then a head assembly for each zone. Don't be shy about follow-up questions or other drip questions!

Thank you for your answer. We actually have a water retention pond in the wetlands and a bridge going over it. We can use the bridge to attach the tubing on the sides. In years past we have been using a very long regular hose attached to a sprinkler and moving it about 4 times each time we water the plants. Very time consuming and cumbersome. 😅 I am wondering how I would want to zone this in the best way possible. The full property is 300 feet long 35 feet wide. The first 100 feet: The house sits on the front of the property 100 feet long 35 feet wide The second 100 feet Wetlands and patio The wet lands sits behind the house that is 50 feet long by 35 feet wide. A bridge runs across the wetlands on the left side of the width of the property. As you walk off the bridge there is a path (3 feet by 25-30 feet long) within the wetlands and heads into the usable part of the backyard. After about 25 - 30 feet of path from the bridge there is a square patio (30 feet x 30 feet) approx 2.5 feet of plants on each side of the patio completes the 35 foot width Plants run all the way on left side of the landscape from the bridge running all the way to the back fence. (2.5-3 feet x 150-175 feet) Third 100 feet After the patio is a fully landscaped area 75 feet x 35 feet with a circle (radius 28 feet) gravel path sitting in the middle with plants on the outside of the circle as well as inside the circle. A shed with privacy trees behind completes the final 25 feet. If I’m understanding you, are you saying if we can, possibly run 3 tubes to the back over the bridge? I think its possible. My thoughts would be Zone 1: (left side of landscaping) from the hose bib at the house run across the bridge straight down the left side to the fence (200 feet) put a elbow connecter possibly run another 15-20 feet then cap off? (Total 220 feet) Zone 2: (right side of landscaping) from hose bib at the house run on right side of bridge, elbow right connect at about the patio (50 feet) run about 20 feet to the right side, elbow connect to the left run down to the fence (150 feet) then elbow connect left about 10-15 feet then cap off? Zone 1 and 2 end about the same place (at the back fence). (Total 235 feet) Zone 3: (plants inside the gravel path circle) from hose bib at the house run on right side of bridge, elbow right connect at about the patio (50 feet), run about 20 feet to the right side, elbow connect left, run down approx 50 feet past the patio, elbow connect to the left approx 10 feet to reach inside the circle then cap off? (Total 130 feet) If you have understood so far, my question is what kind of, timers, pressure valves, backflow preventers, and tubing would I use for all this length from the hose bib. I realize I have all the other factors of flow rate and how many emitters and the other variables. I think need to understand if my zones are correctly thought out before going further. Am I missing anything so far? Can you think of anything better? Thank you again for your time and expertise. I’m more concerned about ease and simplicity than money at this point, unless very outrageously costly.

@@lisamishina1317 Lisa, thank you for getting back! Great description of what you're doing -- and no worries, I do believe this can be done without being outrageously expensive, and I can help keep things budget friendly without sacrificing quality. With the lengths of your three zones, I suspect you'll be able to use 1/2" to 3/4" tubing as the mainline for the zones -- attaching it to the bridge is a great idea. Is the bridge made of wood? If so, some common tubing clamps can secure it to the bridge to keep it looking neat and tidy (and even discreet depending on the design of the bridge). In regards to timer, I'd likely go with a 3 to 4 zone hose timer -- it will go right on your hose bib and allow you to easily run each of your three zones from there. On each of the timer outlets that will run a drip zone, you'd just need a backflow preventer, a filter and then a pressure regulator -- after that is just an adapter to connect your tubing and off you go :) You'd run your tubing out to there it needs to go, using elbows and tees as needed, and then cap it off and install your emitters and you're pretty much done at that point. I can also help you determine which zones should use what mainline -- so, it sounds like your longest zone is going to require 235' of mainline and the shortest is going to require 130' -- does that sound right? Two major variables go into picking a mainline size -- its overall length and the volume of water going through it. Overall length you sent over, now we're going to want to determine how much water will be going through it. This part is based on the number of emitters and their flow rate. Do you know what emitters and how many you'd like to use on each zone yet? If so, let me know and I'll run the numbers and tell you what they mean for mainline size. From what I've seen so far, I don't think you'll need anything particularly large (which is good! A lot of the cost for an irrigation system comes from the mainline), but always best to make 100% sure. If you haven't picked emitters yet, that's no problem, I'm happy to help there as well. Here is a link to some sample designs we made for many types of projects (raised beds, general landscapes, potted plants, trees, etc) -- take a look at a few of them that are close to what you need to irrigate and you can get an idea of what's used for different projects. You'll notice they have a lot of overlap, which helps simplify things greatly, there's not too terribly many options. Here is that link: help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/folders/11000020065 If you already have emitter plans, just let me know which ones and how many per zone and I'll do some quick math to help with mainline size =D

Ok! Thank you for your encouragement! I have my homework to do and will get back to you when I have these other factors figured out so you can help me with the next steps! Thanks again! 🤗

@@lisamishina1317 You bet Lisa! And I absolutely look forward to helping, so don't be shy at all, I love talking about irrigation :)

At that many zones, the best bet would be to go with a traditional irrigation controller and solenoid valves. 12 zones can technically be done on a hose bib using a 4 outlet faucet splitter and 3 to 4 outlet hose timers. Between those and the head assemblies, a lot of weight is created which would apply significant stress on a hose bib, which may not be installed in such a way to support all the additional weight.