How would YOU lube it? Schaublin lathe spindle removal. 

Definitely option 2 for the bearings. Option 3 seems way too risky, option 4 gives the same levels of risk but with insane levels of expenditure even if nothing is damaged and I know you'd never be happy with option 1. Would it be possible to get the grease hot enough to be liquid without ruining it? Loving the aircraft anecdotes, please keep them coming!

honestly it's amazing that the same guy that signed the little black book actually found your videos/pictures and commented

Option 2. you can easily run enough rounds of cleaning with solvent over a few days to make sure 100% all the old grease has gone and just do what you can with running them in once refilled....either in or out of the lathe.

That is so cool that Jean Claude saw this and reached out to you. Such a small world.

i vote for 2. Perhaps u could check out a big truck repair company for cleaning. They mostly have those big parts washing machines. We had one of those 5 digit expensive ones in my apprenticeship, they REALLY cleaned up everything.

"smashed" the like button. I like this video alot. Amazing that the guy involved in building the machine is here watching. Got to love this community

Schaeffler puplished the TPI 176 with loads of information about greasing bearings. Its written in German and I don't know whether it contains Information about removing old grease or not but at least its free.

Loving your videos mate, making me realize how drastically un-prepared I am to assemble my own spindle for my diy cnc; I think I'll buy one...

Best disassembly background music ever. So relaxing. My vote which probably should be thrown out as I’m certainly not qualified is Option 1. Option 2 would be my second choice if I could vote twice. Now that you have a nice spindle puller and it didn’t look like it took too much time to remove once the dance was figured out, Option 1 has the least cons with the highest success of building a cool lathe that will produce high quality parts. Whatever you do, I’m sure it will be the right decision 👍👍😎👍👍

I agree option 2. I would suspect Schaublin intended that the bearings only went on once, if they need replacing you crack the races to get them off and press on new bearings.

Number 3, a result you can be even more proud of and good experience for all projects into the future!

Regarding the bearings: I think option two is the best as well. You have more than enough time to let the spindle soak in solvent, and you can run it in for days, as it is CNC. But if I may ask for one thing: Don't use syringe needles, use infusion cannulas. They also have a metal thingy so that you can get it through the skin, but you can pull it out. That way, you don't scratch bearing surfaces with the needle, and if you pull out only a bit, you still have a rigid canulla that can push against stuff

Option 5: Heat 5 liter engine oil to 100C, wash out the bearings in it, heat up the bearings and pack them with grease. When grease is hot it flows into hard to reach places. Use gravity as your advantage.

If you decide to clean and relube, just make sure the cleaning solution is compatible with the cage material. In the odd chance things go sideways and you end up needing some bearings, I have a few dozen sets of new old stock RHP spindle bearings I have been hoarding on the shelf. From rebuilding a few Hardinge spindles, a trick I picked up is using a 75-100 watt incandescent lightbulb to warm the headstock casting for a few hours before reinstalling. The heat given off expands the bores slightly making it more of a slip fit. Pressing and pulling on a new bearing stack always makes me nervous.

Like button smashed, thanks for the great content. I agree with you and everyone else, option 2 is the way to go. Worst case scenario is that you don't quite get all the old grease out and have some level of contamination. I could live with that.

Getting the preload just right is gonna be a right pain in the nads. Could make a bench thingy with V or U blocks the spindle sits in, with a belt drive to spin the thing very gingerly. I think I have a file of the book Rob Renz references in the spindle rebuild, I can send it to you if you like. Not sure where I have it though, I tend to put the super interesting books in a special place, and then immediately forget where that is.

I would say option 2, or even option 1. I would not touch the integrity of that factory assembled block, specially without the detailed procedure specified by the manufacturer...

WOW. Beautiful Lathe.

Ha, Vienna, one of the nicest towns of Germany if you ask me ;) :D

Kero melts wax, so there must be some solvent that melts dried grease. Then machine a L-shaped ring with a grease nipple that seals the open end of the bearing, and clamp it. Then pump grease under pressure through the bearing. Basically the same as those grease repacking kits you buy.

Option 2 is the safest, but I'd be tempted to remove the bearings from the shaft with a puller, clean and inspect them, lubricate and then reinstall. But that's just me.

Option 2. It sounds less risky and you have the time to spare.

Could you machine a sleeve thats seals on the shaft at one end and clamps round the bearings then you can put grease under pressure through it to push the old stuff out, Please remember obviously I don't have any prior experience of doing this , I did ask the dog what he thinks and he said he would go with it but he says that sometimes as he cant be arsed.

It cost AUD 17K to have my Schaublin 225CNC spindle rebuilt by Schaublin - that included freight to and from Swissland during COVID lockdowns . I would definately go with option 2 - since you are of a mind to not go with option #1. DO NOT muck around with your third and 4th options. If it were me - I would just leave it and run it - you can always go back to option #2. In my case the spindle had to be rebuilt because the pneumatic system was shot and had caused issues (apparently) teh 225 has an air cooled system to keep the spindle cool at 8000 ( as if I would ever drive it that fast ) - I didnt notice a filter system on the pneumatics? I have filter and pressure guage in a mounting block...precooling the air goes through it after teh cooling unit. Cheers Pete PS well done on getting a collet set - they arent cheap new.

I woud ask Robrenz - but I lean to #3. Kudos to JC!

Option 3 ..die Fettgebrauchsdauer ist erschöpft ;-) Gruss aus dem Schaublinland

Real question is: how *long* has the door bench been a temporary solution

option 2 but needs a thorough cleaning.. or as you said there might be a reaction between different lube. that was "oscar" or "oxtool" vise?

Oh,nuts. My subscription list is already unwieldy. Oh,well,one more won't make any material difference now.

the arrow on the bearings is not so for putting them on time (as you said 12 o"çlock) but more to see how the orientation is because the are L shaped. one assemled as pull and one as push. for the axial stress. Mikron had 3 of those bearings in the Z-axxes spindel WF 31 D milling machine i use a lot. 2 with the arrow up and the top bearing had it's arrow down. they lift the bed. wasn't this the same as your Deckel Maho???

Go option 3, it’ll be a better video, we’ll learn more, and you’ll know it’s done properly.

Nice vid. I'd replace that drive belt also. For the lubricating of that spindle, is there a method where you could clean it in a ultrasonic cleaner or similar, and then soak it in a mix of solvent and oil and let the solvent evaporate away leaving a film of lube in all the places you could never get to otherwise?

@rotarysmp Gent / Ghent is a city in Belgium. Flanders is the northern part of the country where they speak dutch. Walloon is the south part of the country - speaks french and some german. Ghent resides in the northern part of the country. belgium is a mess of languages & governments

Hey i live in Switzerland, and i would like to help you with the Tailstock. The problem at the time is i never shipd or Maild a package like this. And in which Country would it go?

Do nothing, you already ran the spindle and it was fine. It'll probably never go back to production work, so even if your grandkids inherit it and use it, the future hours on the spindle are limited.

I really love your videos! I like the jokes about (not)rusty tube :D Is there something you are not good at? :-)

Like button smashed

Great Series of Videos, really like it ! I would recommend Option 2 but i would not use Klüber NBU 15 ! The Recommendet LDS 18 Special A is a different Grease !

Ich würde Schaublin anrufen und fragen was du mit den Lagern machen sollst. Die beissen nicht und wahrscheinlich können sie auch deutsch. Ich habe es jedenfalls auch ohne gute französisch Kenntnisse geschafft mich mit dem Service zu verständigen. ich würde option 2 wählen. ev kannst du das fett auflösen und verdünnt besser injizieren.

Fuuuuck man! Idk bro I'm trying to figure that out myself. Hey, u know anywhere that's a good place to get these older lathes or mills for free. Like as parts maybe or something? Or where they don't have any alarms?

Option 5: Send it to Schaublin and have them evaluate it and refurb it.

And yet all the civil airline authorities suggest most airplane accidents are human error. I can't disagree more....

So, i was trying option 2 last time. This is not working, at least not simple. I was disassemble it and clean all proper way. No rocket science in this job, just think what you doing and look for any markings on bearings rings.

Belgium! not France...o dear, an International incident.

I live in yverdon and i would kindly help you but i cant find you e-mail adress

Option 5; pay someone else to do it.

2

It is so cool that the original engineer also watches this stuff.

Regarding the bearings: I think option two is the best as well. You have more than enough time to let the spindle soak in solvent, and you can run it in for days, as it is CNC. But if I may ask for one thing: Don't use syringe needles, use infusion cannulas. They also have a metal thingy so that you can get it through the skin, but you can pull it out. That way, you don't scratch bearing surfaces with the needle, and if you pull out only a bit, you still have a rigid canulla that can push against stuff

"This old bench is a temporary solution", in my shop temporary solutions always become permanent lol.

love the wifey reading ... pure gold

Wait what not sure if you where being sarcastic saying Ghent is in France... Its definitly in Belgium I live like an hour away from that city

it's always funny to hear your aviation maintenance stories, great video, and give Nico a cookie for me. As far as the bearing options go, have you considered asking our french buddy about it? I'm personally an option 2 guy, but if I had someone who had designed the thing talking to me, I'd ask them what to do.

Stories like that 737 towing one are the reason I love checklists so much. Slightly different in the EMS world, but it doesn't matter how many times I've done something, I'll still go through a checklist for it

My employer used to have a site in Genk. It was not unusual for someone to book travel from the UK to Ghent and then wonder why they couldn't find the plant.

I'm a photography student trying to learn more about how to make things, an apprenticeship project with nothing but drills and a file that actually makes something useful seems like a perfect way to start! p.s. reminds me, I started watching because of your polaroid hacks, any more progress with those?

"What did you do at your first day of work honey?" "Oh, not much. I just nearly destroyed several millions dollars worth of aircraft." "What?!?" "Well, you know how brakes in old cars are sometimes a bit spongy."

Love the new pipes! Go option 2, you’ve got the right grease. Options 3 & 4 are a can of worms!

SMASHED that like button. Now I have a hole in my display :-( Option 2 gets my vote. Hopefully by the end of the series (episode 41...?) that name plate will be clean. 😉

I have been so confused at where you live even after watching so many of your videos. For some reason I thought you were in NZ, but a bunch of times I was caused to doubt myself... now I hear from your own words that you're in Austria :) Ahh well! A Kiwi in Austria? Or? LOL! Oh, and I pick (3) remove all the bearings, clean and reinstall :)

24 seconds in and I like it already 👍

That apprintist vice is Nice. I made one the first year aswell. I Will see if i can dig some of My old apprintist stuff out from the loft for a video. 😁

The more videos of yours I watch, the more you sound like the rock dude off Taika Waititi's first Thor movie. Uncanny. Loving the videos, so jealous of the machine availability over there.

There is one word that is still beyond the pale. The concept it embodies is so revolting that the publication or broadcast of the word is utterly forbidden in all parts of the galaxy except one - where they don’t know what it means. That word is “Belgium” and it is only ever used by loose-tongued people like Zaphod Beeblebrox in situations of dire provocation. FORD: "You stupid Ghent!"

Flander is actually the Dutch speaking part of Belgium😉

While I'd definitely go for option 2 myself, I would love to see the process of option 3 too, 1 and 4 are out of the question though.

You're on the right track; but I would use a plastic injector needle for the new grease though not a metal one. I can imagine working a stainless steel needle around that second bearing and suddenly have the steel needle separate from the syringe and drop down in between the rollers. Murphy's Law it will always go to the most inaccessible place.

Option 3 or 4. I tried several times to clean those type of bearing assemblies with air and solvent. You never fully clean it this way.

Option 2 for sure! Loving the channel by the way, got hooked after the Mini Lathe CNC build series. Ever thought of investing in a descent TIG welder?! Everytime I see the stickwelder, I die a little inside... 😉

You missed the obvious here. "Ned Flanders" proves Ghent is in the Netherlands. Solved.

Put 2 belts on it 1 for spare. FvE channel Francois van Engelen

Old video but i have heated grease until its liquid, then just poured it inside bearings and whatnot that were othervise difficult to grease

#2 all days of the week. Soak the whole spindle in diesel for several days, rotate now and then and I am sure you will get out all old grease. Cheers Bengt

For angular contact spindle bearings I clean and repack them about 50% with Kluber Isoflex 15. You can buy it in small syringes that make packing in situ easy. My second job was working as a ramp agent at DTW, some of the things you see happening on the ramp boggle the mind. It's a wonder how air travel is as safe as it is when the ground crew can be so careless.

I totally agree about the welding! I went and built the structure of my backyard deck out of 1/8" 1 x 2" steel with 3 x 3" steel posts. To date it's my favorite home reno project. In fact, my better 3/4 says that I did it jut so I could justify having bought a welder. Which, of course, is totally untrue. I don't need any justification to buy a tool. An excuse, certainly, but no justification :D

Option 5. Actualy, it's option "0" from the manual :) Bit late unfortunatly. Trichloroethylene is not available any more (nothing to do with ozone, it's carcinogen). But... it is replaced with perchloroethylene (or tetrachloroethylene or tetrachloroethene, just different names for the same stuf). You know this specific smell you feel in chemical wardrobe cleaning shop? That is perchloroethylene. Usualy they will sold or even give you liter or two.

option 2. Got an ultrasonic bath ? Maybe too much if there are seals in there....Rinse with a gentle solvent..... WD40....? MEK ? maybe warm, and use a fishtank pump in a clean tank..... ? Clean the heck out of it.... rig up a stand to run it as yo inject the kluber.... good luck....!

I came for the machine project, and am staying for the entertainment value! Best, Reuben

For the bearings! First a solvent wash with kerosene or anything you choose. Then soak with lots of Würth 2000 spray grease. Würth 2000 is a very thin liquid and very runny, at first acts like a solvent but after it gets dry, turns into very sticky grease, more sticky than regular grease. Sweep würth 2000 with high pressure air also mix solvent to air gun. Sticky würth 2000 will help collect all residue. It will be a very messy job.

Flanders speaks a variation of German. It is part of Belgium. The other, the southern part of Belgium is Wallonia and there predominantly French is spoken. So, you mixed up everything nicely in your explanation.

I would put 2 or 3 gallons of gasoline in a 5 gallon bucket. Get on some THICK rubber gloves. place the entire assembly into the bucket and roll the bearings by hand while submerged in the fuel until all the old, dry grease felt broken up. Remove the assembly and used compressed air to blow out the stuff stuck in the cages. Repeat 2 or possibly three more times. Use the greasy gas for weed eaters or any other two stroke engines you run. IDGAF what any crybabies say about this comment either. When a difficult part HAS to be CLEAN no amount of mineral spirits is going to do the trick. Gas works perfectly 100% of the time.

Excellent video again this week. Very much enjoying your Schaublin lathe journey. Would love to find one of those here in the States! Just curious about the spindle insertion once the bearings are clean and greased, have you thought of putting a mild preheat into the head casting to make the press slightly easier? Spindle bearings are sensitive to press loading. I am currently working on my Parker Majestic No. 2 surface grinder spindle and have found the bearings prefer preheat over “force”.

Great video and the nameplate stories are certainly a feature now. It's late here, but my Sunday is not complete without a dose of Rotary SMP (technically it's Monday already) Option 2 seems to be favourite at the time of writing. I see you intend a diesel soak to start off the cleaning, but I'm concerned that exotic Kluber grease might gum up and be harder to completely remove with regards to the mixing with mineral oil warnings. Perhaps test the method on a drop of the new stuff first? Good luck mate.

Removing the bearings won't (probably) screw up the preload as the preload isn't necessarily adjustable on those sets of angular contact ball bearings. They appear to be matched pairs that have correct preload when squeezed completely together. However, the bearings can get damaged while pulling them out.

I'm not sure if I missed a joke or something but we definitely do not speak French in Flanders. Flanders is the Dutch speaking half of Belgium.

If you’re looking for a easier lubricant to get it in the bearings you might want to take a look at Klüber Microlube GB00 it’s rather fluid for a fat and it lubricates pretty good, I’m using it on a large CNC

Isnt better Kluber LDS 18 Special A? Happy to see a very good work, congratulations and thanks!

Just change from the usual comments. When undoing a screw on chuck be careful. The voice of experience,learned at school 50+years ago, when you get to the end of the thread the chuck can drop and if your fingers are below it hurts . Apparently the last kid to do it fainted. Told to hold chuck from above and turn the shaft to unscrew so you are not caught out with fingers in the way. Never forgot that.😢

Regarding the bearings: I think option two is the best as well. You have more than enough time to let the spindle soak in solvent, and you can run it in for days, as it is CNC. But if I may ask for one thing: Don't use syringe needles, use infusion cannulas. They also have a metal thingy so that you can get it through the skin, but you can pull it out. That way, you don't scratch bearing surfaces with the needle, and if you pull out only a bit, you still have a rigid canulla that can push against stuff

Although baiting belgians is a historically popular european pastime, it seldom ends well for all involved. I'd go with option 2, find the right solvent and flush 'em out. there's no good reason to break down a perfectly good assembly like that, it was assembled by some of the best people on the planet at that sort of thing, and it's still in great condition.

When you have to do up/undo fasteners on something that can spin try to keep the acting force on the implement used going through the centre of the rotation. That way your force will have zero torque about the centre. One simple way of achieving this is to point the lever of your tool (in your case the tail of that allen key) at the centre of rotation. You can undo flywheel bolts on engines, wheel nuts with the wheel up in the air, pretty much anything no matter how tight this way. Amazing you will say but Physics actually works. Regarding the bearings, why not put the whole thing in an ultrasonic bath and leave it there for a while? I would use some sort of liquid that doesn't dissolve the grease to take advantage of it being crusty already hence more likely to fall off. There is of course the opposite argument, use a solvent that can dissolve the grease so it will penetrate better in the ultrasonic bath. Maybe try option one first and then give it another session with a good solvent to finish it off.

Nice video here 👌 Wish you luck with this rebuild and looking forward to a new video. Cheers, AS

I've got a 102, and the idea of doing anything to the bearings terrifies me. Well, not the idea of doing anything, but the idea of what it will inevitably cost to replace them after I fuck 'em up. Option 1, or 2 if you're really worried about the state of the grease left in there.

21:35 Have you not got external jaws for the chuck you were using ?

Flanders / Vlaanderen is the northern federal state of Belgium. And Gent is the capital of the Belgian province of East Flanders. hope this commend helps

Watch out that Kluber doesn’t come into contact with mineral oil or grease. It turns into chewing gum. At least that’s happened to me on a couple of ballscrew and mill spindles. Love the vids.

How about lube like a motorbike chain... Submerge in melted grease... not high temp, but a specialty grease that you heat in a tin over a low flame and submerge the part in.

I vote for option 2. After watching An Engineers Findings, spindle preload scares me.

3-phase motors: there is a 50% chance it will turn the right way and a 100% chance it will turn the wrong way...

I say, option 5 Put a vacuum bag over one side of bearings, seal it with tape on the bearing, and apply grease to other side and suck your way to your satisfaction.