I'm glad I found you doing my exact model. But I should warn others that you cut out some pretty key pieces being disassembled while making the video short.
Trying to salvage a M452dn fuser with crumpled paper down inside the fuser. This looks like it might get us to where we could remove the 'accordian' paper, but there's no commentary on what you're doing so it's hard to follow what needs to be done.
Great video ! I had marks on my prints because pressure roller was peeling of on one spot. I replaced pressure roller from my fuser thanks to this video. All prints now have spots and duplicates of text between the required text. Any idea what could be the cause or solution?
Yes, did that repair many times, no success yet, the aftermarket pressure rollers are way to bad, have tried many suppliers, wasted a lot of time and money, but haven't had any luck... The thermal conductivity of them is just too bad... You can just set paper thickness to high, wich will reduce print speed, but will give the heat element more time heating up the roller, it will print just fine than but at somewhat half the print speed... Some people state, that after 500 pages or so, the roller is burned in and will run rust fine then without reducing print speed / changing paper thickness... Haven't tried that yet, still searching for an out box working spare part 😔
Yes, did that repair many times, no success yet, the aftermarket pressure rollers are way to bad, have tried many suppliers, wasted a lot of time and money, but haven't had any luck... The thermal conductivity of them is just too bad... You can just set paper thickness to high, wich will reduce print speed, but will give the heat element more time heating up the roller, it will print just fine than but at somewhat half the print speed... Some people state, that after 500 pages or so, the roller is burned in and will run rust fine then without reducing print speed / changing paper thickness... Haven't tried that yet, still searching for an out box working spare part 😔
This was great ... I have a roller that started to peel off ... This will be a better route to try. I found some roller for about $30 ... better than $300 for the fuser.
@@cipibebe Yes, did that repair many times, no success yet, the aftermarket pressure rollers are way to bad, have tried many suppliers, wasted a lot of time and money, but haven't had any luck... The thermal conductivity of them is just too bad... You can just set paper thickness to high, wich will reduce print speed, but will give the heat element more time heating up the roller, it will print just fine than but at somewhat half the print speed... Some people state, that after 500 pages or so, the roller is burned in and will run rust fine then without reducing print speed / changing paper thickness... Haven't tried that yet, still searching for an out box working spare part 😔
Is there a specific position for the fuser to put it in before re installing it in the printer ? There are two positions : first one, the roller is free so it is easy to make it spin... second one, the roller is hard to make it spin (with fingers) because of the pressure of the 2 springs. First or second or ... it doesn't matter ? Thanks
Yes, did that repair many times, no success yet, the aftermarket pressure rollers are way to bad, have tried many suppliers, wasted a lot of time and money, but haven't had any luck... The thermal conductivity of them is just too bad... You can just set paper thickness to high, wich will reduce print speed, but will give the heat element more time heating up the roller, it will print just fine than but at somewhat half the print speed... Some people state, that after 500 pages or so, the roller is burned in and will run rust fine then without reducing print speed / changing paper thickness... Haven't tried that yet, still searching for an out box working spare part 😔
i succesfully disassembled and re-assembled the fuser using this guid however the noise that i was getting is worsened. the printer prints but with noise. i don't know where to look at for this noise. any ideas?
@@tristaninosanto7544 you can be lucky if it's only the noise, in general the toner will not be fixed to the paper after replacing the pressure roller... Changing the upper sleeve makes things even worse as both aftermarket parts have way to bad thermal conductivity, I'm still searching for working replacement parts... 😔
RM2-6435-000CN HP RM2-6435-000CN - (220 V) KIT FÜR FIXIEREINHEIT - FÜR COLOR LASERJET PRO M452 MFP M477 Bei 15:30 weist Erepairer darauf hin, dass die Zahnräder synchronisiert sein müssen! Ebenso bei 16:30! Das ist absolut entscheidend! Wichtig scheint das Original HP grease zu sein (GK-0551-020), Silikon mit hoher Viskosität ist noch nicht verifiziert. Habe das erste Mal sechs Stunden für die komplette Reparatur gebraucht (nachts von 21 Uhr bis 3 Uhr früh); mit Flasche Grauburgunder und Classic Radio… RM2-6435-000CN HP RM2-6435-000CN - (220 V) FUSER UNIT KIT - FOR COLOR LASERJET PRO M452 MFP M477 At 15:30 Erepairer points out that the gears must be synchronized! Likewise at 16:30! This is absolutely crucial! Important seems to be the original HP grease (GK-0551-020), silicone with high viscosity is not yet verified. Took me six hours for the complete repair the first time (at night from 9 pm to 3 am); with bottle of Pinot Gris and Classic Radio... Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Hallo Hans-Peter, wo hast du die Teile bestellt? Ich habe die Reparatur schon unzähligen male durchgeführt und unzählige Druckwalzen / Pressure Roller getestet... Die thermische Leitfähigkeit ist leider bei allen bislang viel zu schlecht, das Tonerpulver wird nicht fixiert... Eine Möglichkeit ist es die Papierdicke auf hoch zu stellen, dadurch verringert sich die Druckgeschwindigkeit enorm, so hat die Druckwalze mehr Zeit aufzuheizen und fixiert dann auch sauber, aber eine dauerhafte, geschweige denn kommerzielle Lösung ist das nicht 😔
