I've enjoyed all of your videos, sir! I feel your pain. I have the 2.4L oil burner. Lol. So, have you had any other issues since it burns so much oil? I have been wondering about my Catalytic Converter getting clogged. Have you had any issues like that? Or have you had it replaced? Keep up the good work! I've enjoyed the journey, man!
DO NOT!!!! Replace the engine mechanically. This flushes away the entire experiment and thus people move along to another RU-vid channel.. this is the bread and butter of this show. We all know it can be fixed that way. That’s not exciting. My suggestion is “BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit” a 4 piece kit. There is five or more videos online that claim this is fixed their issues successfully. Problem is it’s $300… Maybe do a go fund me and everybody pitches in $1.00. Or reach out to BG. Can you imagine this product fixing your engine after 26 other snake oil products have failed!?!? My 2 cents.
We've seen some pretty impressive results with the BG Dynamic Clean kit at our repair shop. If the dynamic cleaning kit doesn't fix it, nothing will. Just make sure you follow the directions correctly. Good luck!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIYpour acetone in the cylinders. 10cc, five times, at about one hour intervals. And wiggle the crank after an hour. Five times. Soak those rings real good. Don't run it like that, just change the oil. I'm assuming when you wiggle the crank back and forth it will flow right past into the oil pan. Since it will have oil, it won't damage anything.....it will be diluted by the oil. But don't run it. Let us know what happ🎉ens.
Thank you for this series, Dave, it's been very informative. I think the final test before a teardown has to be BG Dynamic, save the most expensive for last
I agree @DIY Dave if your gonna do 1 last treatment test it should be BG Dynamic engine cleaner kit. You've put so much work into the car and helping us test these products I think at least the "Old Girl" Corolla deserves the best medicine before you perform open heart surgery on her. Also your oil gets very dark and dirty at such short mileage. Since I've done the Barryman's and switched my oil to thinner it actually is staying cleaner so I believe the BG Dynamic engine cleaner will definately help clean out all the gunk.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think we all should do an email campaign to BG to get you some free product!!!!!! Ill send an e-mail now! There's other technologies to try "if" its a carboned ring pack, like maybe a Piston Kleen soak but it must remain heated during the soak, maybe use the old heated dipstick device to put down the spark plug hole to try to keep the solution warm. I'd even dump down some Carbon Off commercial aluminum stove/pan cleaner, or paint stripper, & use the heated dipstick. Don't forget MOPAR Combustion Chamber Cleaner, & again heat it with a heated dipstick in the plug hole. As I said previously, if all else fails, Schaffers Moly EP 132, with HPL 10/40 10/50 oil should stop the oil consumption. Don't forget GM Top engine cleaner for a hot soak.... But I bet BG would pull some Big Bg bs & refer you to a dealer & give them credit for product & you'd have to pay the service charge, but maybe they pick up the tab! I dealt with the BG reps back in the early 90's at the Caddy dealer & only the parts mgr. would give me demo product to try, not the rep. I never liked BG's exclusive dealer program back then when you could only buy thru the dealer service dept., but those were the days when their were very few products out there & no e-commerce competition.
I'm from EU and I'd watch these trips for hours. Your food is ridiculous. Fantastic video! Your best result was with that Yamalube. I've never seen such cleaning of pistons after one use ever. I would drive that for 2k... than a teardown. Just record your trips, they're great! Greetings from Croatia.
You should've done a complete change, after the Engine Cleaner, with the HPL 5W-30. By keeping the old oil and just topping off, the ester concentration is diluted too much. It's likely there's still a lot of cleaning that needs to happen around the rings. For some, it wasn't until the 2nd full oil change before the consumption started to decrease. It cleans slowly like that so you don't overwhelm the oil filter with too much cleaning too quickly. I would do a complete change with HPL 5W-30 and continue to monitor. There's been several who, by the 3rd oil change on HPL, have gone from a quart every 1,000-1,500 miles to a quart every 5,000-7,000 miles. If you cut open the filter, you're likely to find a good bit of carbonous deposits in the filter. The oil filter should be changed every 1,000-1,500 miles when using the Engine Cleaner and initial oil changes.
There you are again, old buddy!!! You keep getting my respect & admiration on your perseverance!!! PLUS, you got great taste for music!!! "DO PREMIUM QUALITY WORK!"
Thank you Dave, this series has been very helpful for me as well. We have a 2017 Audi Q7 that burned a quart every 400 miles and had bad enough misfiring to cause codes and limp mode. I replaced the PCV, tried Lucas oil stabilizer, two recommended oils (Castrol Edge, Motul Xcess), and BG EPR, all with no effect. Then I did a Berryman's B12 piston soak. A few differences to your method, but the result was a huge improvement. It has now gone roughly 2000 miles per quart for 6000+ miles, and no misfiring at all. I plan to do it again before my next oil change and see if it improves further. If that hadn't helped, I was going to try the BG Dynamic engine cleaner as a last resort before throwing in the towel and doing a rebuild. But I thought you were also going to try a BG Dynamic engine clean too and was hoping to see your result. Did you decide against that?
@@vader_117 with the engine at a quart low on oil and warm, I pulled the plugs and rotated it until the cylinders were roughly all in the middle. Since it’s a V engine you don’t have the luxury of the fluid going all the way around the piston like in a vertical piston engine. I calculated that around 8-10oz of fluid would be enough to get the fluid level above the highest part of the piston. So, to be on the safe side I put a whole 15oz can of B12 in each cylinder, or as much as it would hold up to the spark plug hole. I then let it sit overnight, about 12 hours with the spark plug holes covered to reduce evaporation. At that point all but two of the cylinders had completely drained into the crankcase, and those two were mostly down. I blew the remaining fluid out by cranking the engine without the plugs and then put the plugs back in. Then I started it and drove it for about 20 minutes doing a lot of high vacuum decels to try and get the oil with B12 in it up into the rings and cylinders. Then did an oil and filter change and reset the trip meter. When it hadn’t come off full (dash display) until after 6 or 700 I knew I had finally found a solution to the oil consumption headache.
I have a 2012 Audi A6 and did the piston wash as well, I was burning a quart every 1K miles and it doubled after. I plan todo it again but for a longer period.
I'm watching these videos for the exact same reason on my 2017 Audi Q7 3.0T. I'm at 88k miles and it uses a quart of oil anywhere from 350 to 800 miles depending on how I drive it. Do you have any advice on doing the B12? Also, did the Pcv valve help at all? I was going to install one soon.
It's been a great journey!!! In my opinion, don't tear the engine down. Continue the journey. You introduced Yamalube in Episode 20. Out of many additives I've used in the past, Yamalube actually solved my issue (no more misfires at cold, etc etc). Imagine if had you torn that engine down before episode 20. We probably would've never heard of Yamalube. I think there is an additive out there or chemical process that will solve the burning oil issue but you would have to continue the course. I would suggest trying these two oils: 1. Liqui Moli Molygen which has the Tungsten additive within the oil. Tungsten is more less a friction modifier but does bond to the metal. 2. Motul 300V Competition. Yes, this is a race oil. But, it is a ester-based group 5 oil. It might be overkill for the toyota but could solve the oil burning issue. I think we've become a small community around your oil consumption experiments as many of us are testing additives with our own vehicles. In closing, don't tear that motor apart. I would continue the path. If not, we understand and thank you for taking on this task.
The Yamalube RFP should have been used more, as it was successful in removing the carbon on the piston tops. Add to fuel in either SHOCK TREATMENT for oil build up or CONSTANT TREATMENT to maintain protection from harmful deposit build up. After SHOCK TREATMENT it is recommended to change oil in 4 stroke engines. Older heavily deposited engines may require a second shock treatment. SHOCK TREATMENT: 2 oz./gal. CONSTANT TREATMENT: 1 oz./10 gals. Minimum SHOCK TREATMENT per engine: 3.3L to 1.7L engines - 64 treated gallons 1.6L to 700cc - 24 treated gallons 699cc and below - 12 treated gallons
@@FamilyFriendlyDIYput the tire plug glue on the plug before pulling it through the plug tool, makes it slide right in. Also, you should go to the junkyard and buy a full size tire from a junked Corolla and use it your spare tire instead of babying it with those little doughnut tires.
Hi Dave, Just want to say thank you again for making these videos, I have gone through the whole playlist in 5 days, learned a lot, since I too have a car with an oil burning issue and have managed to keep the oil consumption to 1 litre per every 5000km by using Liqui Moly engine flush over the past 40,000km (over 7 years). My oil change interval is every 5000km and I refill when the oil level falls to halfway between the 2 dots. These videos have given me also hope in keeping the car and trying to find a fix without having to rebuild. Many people would just say get rid of the car, but I find myself like many others not in a financial situation to do so! Mine is also a gift to my dad who could not afford a good car while he was upbringing me and my brother. My dad always had cars with oil burning issues. I have an idea, I have not tried it since I don't have the tools, but since the problem lies between the side walls of the pistons and the cylinders with these sticky rings, what if you half-filled the cylinder with an engine oil flush solution while the piston is at bottom dead centre (with both intake and exhaust valves closed) as well as pressuring the cylinder with at least 2 bars of air. The rationale behind this, is that the pure solution should be able to do a better job by being forced through the rings to dissolve the deposits. Repeat this procedure a few times for each cylinder and see if it brings any positive results. Of course, drain the crankcase after doing so or remove the oil drain plug while performing the procedure. This is what I wanted to share with the community.
My 2000 Corolla passed 300K miles and starts up every time without fail no matter the season. Yes, it does burn some oil and I have not had any car payment for 17 years. Right ...17 years with no car payment. My real mechanics told me to keep it until it dies ... and I will...
Hey Dave, I wanted to thank you for your videos. I have an 2008 Camry 2AZFE engine that was burning 2 quarts every 5,000 miles of oil. I used Berryman's B12 in the spark plug holes with the engine hot and now after 1200 miles, I have no loss in oil. I could not have done this without your help! Thank you Sir!
What was your method? Did you just do a soak? Hand crank the engine over etc etc? I have a 07 accord using quite a bit of oil. I wondering if doing the chemtool thing might help.
@@MrRedHotChiliMan I'm not going to lie, I probably could've done a more thorough job but I was on a time crunch. It worked though! I drove the car to my buddy's shop, which was a half hour away. I pulled the spark plugs and let it sit for about 15 minutes. I put a funnel down it and poured an 8th of the bottle down each spark plug hole. It boiled almost instantly, which I honestly think helped with the cleaning. I let it sit like that for another 15 minutes, then added an 8th of the bottle to each cylinder again. Still hot enough at this point, it slightly boiled. I let that sit another 15 minutes, turned the engine over to blow out the excess. Reinstalled the spark plugs and ran it. Went down the road at higher RPMs to burn off any dislodged carbon, came back and changed the oil. I'm guessing I had a stick piston ring. Bore scope showed I still had cross hatching in the cylinders. I have added oil in 1200 miles.
Pretty much all the successful Berryman's B12 stories are when done when the engine is hot. Also seen several successful cases where it is dumped down the carb or throttle body with the [hot] engine running at a rate that almost stalls the engine.
Dave, I've followed this series since the beginning and it's been so helpful and enjoyable. If I may offer an opinion, I wouldn't put a lot of money into a rebuild. A car that old with that many miles could get hit by a deer and the insurance company would total it out. Happened to me on my 07 Camry. I have an 09 Matrix now which I love. It has the consumption problem too. I've found that running MMO has really helped keep it in check, but I only drive 5000 miles per year or so. I was quoted 8500$ for a rebuild so I ll keep doing what I m doing unless you come up with some magic. Thanks for all of your efforts.
I was having the same issue. I only got 200 miles on a QT . Have gone 200 miles since with no oil loss. 1 thing I did different was that I jacked up the back of the car so the pistons were level! ( liquids always go to the lowest spot) you might not be getting enough cleaner on the high side of the oil rings. ( something to consider) thank you for the videos!!!
my dad was burning a lot of oil in his 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara, i was always using like high mileage full synthetic oil and kept burning a lot, and someone told me don't use full synthetic, so i tried Castrol Gtx high mileage, and a quart of Lucasoil high mileage oil stabilizer and its been roughly 1,247 miles since the oil change and so far knock on wood, no oil burning yet! still at the full mark!
@Mike-Capz83 - as of April 2024 what is the rate of oil consumption? Because synthetic oil makers say there are advantages to synthetic oil, what do you think about those claims?
@@LoneTinaja as of April 2024 my dad no longer has the car. Someone cut him off and the car is totaled, but as of January it didn’t burn any oil at all, since switching to Castro gtx high mileage and a quart of Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer
Berryman's B-12 all the way! I would do another cleaning service with that chemical and really go heavy with it. Do a full and proper oil change and test your mileage to oil burnt ratio again. If it's still not good enough after that, I would rebuild it or replace it. Ideally if you have the space, buy another motor to drop in, take the current one out and have it rebuilt. They probably have a new design for the oil control rings on the pistons, I know VW rings are different than the original with rebuild kits.
If you chose to do Amsoil , make sure its the Signature Series. They have several different types of oil. Loved the video. What I personally did when I had oil burning issues was amsoil engine flush then immediately seafoam the engine flush then Amsoil Signature series. But that's just what worked in my situation
Either BG Dynamic or start putting MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) back in on a regular basis. It had helped my Volvo that was using a quart every 400mi and now I'm over 1200 to 1500 mi's. per quart. It does take a little longer to take effect but I haven't needed to add oil like I did when I first purchased the car.
There are definitely a few videos already on 1zzfe rebuilds for oil burning. A rebuild will work, but it would not be that unique of a contribution for the diyers. It may be worth backtracking to the efforts that produce the most measurable results like soaking with Berryman's. My suggestion would be to try extreme soaking (4-5 days) under periodic compression with any one or combination of the following solvents: Berryman Chemtool B12 (Acetone/Toluene) AC Delco 10-3015 Brakleen (Naphtha) and CRC GDI Cleaner (PEA) Kano Kreen (MEK) BG EPR PVC Primer (purple stuff) If you're not ready to condemn esters then the following products are worth a try: Lubegard Engine Flush (300 miles w/ fresh oil) Auto-RX (1500 miles) Stihl HP 2-mix Oil (10% or higher) CostEffective Flushing Oil Concentrate The only other class of product I've seen that's different is a chelating agent in Stihl's Decarbonizer (trisodium EDTA.) I'm out of ideas...
Say thank you to your son for his service , as a kid growing up in the Australian airforce I understand it takes a toll on service people . Keep up cool videos on the mighty Rolla.
Before tearing it down, I think that the codes that are currently in the DTC memory should be corrected and tested after that. One thing that I plan on doing with my car, is running Lacquer Thinner through the gas to clean up my catalytic converter. I've seen quite a few people try it, and it seems to work. I need to get my other lower control arm replaced, and an alignment before I make the needed journey to do it. Yours is burning so much oil, I'm almost positive the CC is clogged, robbing you of the normal power you should have. That can actually cause too much back pressure, and might be part of the problem. Parrots are a hoot. About 10 years ago, my roommate and I took care of his girlfriend's African Grey for about a year and a half. He was such a character, and loved to mimic the strangest noises. Most notably, my roommate's nextel walky talky beep he had for work. It drove him crazy! He loved to listen to loud music, as he'd dance and sing with the ones he liked. He liked metal and rap. I taught him how to spin and he loved sitting on my shoulder and walking around with me. I was apparently the one that he liked, as they tend to only like one person. They live up to I think 80 years or something.
I did the B12 piston soak in my brother in law’s 2002 Corolla earlier this summer. It dramatically decreased the oil consumption much like your results. Might I suggest you apply some RainX waterless wash and wax ($9 at Walmart) on all the hard exterior surfaces and the windows! Your wipers will last much longer and you will have a dramatic visibility advantage over other drivers! Thank you for the videos!
@@aidankirby8412 you mean like sucking it using a vacuum line? Nah. I just spent a couple days adding an ounce or so into each sparkplug hole and then rotating the engine over a few times. I did this every 4-6hrs while awake. I used 2 full cans of the B12 in doing so. Then I put it all back together and ran it in place at 2,500rpm or so for 20mins before completely changing the oil and filter using Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W30 (not Ultimate Protection). And it consumes less than half the oil it did prior to the piston soak 👍🏽
@@vqdriver Thanks for your experience! I am planning on doing the Berryman soak too (Camry 2009 consuming 1qt /400miles). IF POSSIBLE, would you please check if the Berryman dissolved your oil-pan's pain at all? I have read of catastrophic failures, due to the Berryman loosening the oil-pan's black paint and having those loose paint flakes stuck components/filters in the engine.
@@taz24787highly doubt that it would dissolve anything while mixed in oil. My sister is across the country from me. What I did was run the engine after 2 nights of soaking/turning every 4-6hrs and put a stone on the throttle at 2,000rpm x20mins or so. Then drain and fill with Quaker State 5W30 full synthetic (NOT Ultimate Protection) and Supertech, Denso, Purolator tech, Bosch workshop oil filter (best cheap filters with same premium construction). Change every 3,000mi for IDEAL protection as per the RAT540 blog. Good luck 👍🏽
consider: drain and fill w ATF. idle for awhile - then drain. This can free up sticking rings. Then use normal oil or perhaps thicker, such as Lucas. Its important to run a test for longer terms. Many of these 'treatments' require several hundred miles mininum to show appreciable effect.
Thanks for the continued videos and sorry to see your trouble with Alabama police. I had a similar incident in VA a few years ago where I was also targeted because of having out of state tags. Lots of good cops out there, but unfortunately there are A-holes.
If there were lots of good cops out there, they'd arrest the criminal cops... and then the good cop gets fired. Good cops are good cops for a blink of an eye.
I’ve had luck with piston soaks using B-12 Chemtool and BMW Fuel System Cleaner(same stuff as ACDelco Upper Engine and Fuel Injector cleaner) to get oil consumption down on a 2nd gen Prius, from 1qt/2K mi to nearly 1qt/4K mi. I also experimented with HPL EC, and Vavoline Premium Blue Restore. The best oil for consumption on this car was Shell Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle 5W-30. I’m running HPL 5W-30, I’m at 1qt/3.8K at the moment for consumption. It’s as good as I can get it.
Hello Dave, I was recently watching a few of your oil consumption experiments. Not a mechanic by any means but after looking at your video where you show the inside of your combustion chambers i do have a feeling it could be something that needs to be approached from both sides. This is a comment i saw under a video of someone using a liqui molly product and i have a feeling it might apply here : "Here is the recipe to solve 2.0tfsi oil burning. Get the engine hot. Remove spark plugs, mix 2oz PB Blaster, 1oz B-12 Chemtool, and 1/2oz MMO. Pour this mix in this quantity in to each cylinder. As you pour, you'll hear the mix boiling in the cylinder. Always exercise good safety protocol. Let it sit with a paper towel in the spark plug hole until the piston is visually dry (24hrs). Take a compressed air blower with a long snout and put it in the spark plug hole and blow. You will not believe the amount of dried carbon that will blow out. You'll typically find the culprit cylinder at this time based on the amount of carbon blowing out. Crank the engine over with the plugs out to remove excess liquid. Install the plugs and drive the vehicle around the block. Repeat all of these steps again. This cleans the piston crown and rings from the top side. When starting the engine after the second soak, dump in a can of BG EPR or LiquiMoly engine flush and let it idle for 30 minutes. this cleans the rings from the bottom side. Change the oil and filter and call it a day! This cured an engine burning 1qt every 200 miles @160k miles. It now burns nothing between 5k mi oil changes. " also on a side note if you could try adding Marvel mystery oil into the gasoline, there might be some improvement there, but thats just a guess.
Back in the 90's I had observed similar police corruption in Louisiana. I had just crossed the border from Texas -- and a 1/2 mile into Louisiana, there were 3 State Troopers parked on the shoulder, in the shade, with their radars on. I was very careful to to the exact speed limit before crossing the border -- but I still got followed by a team that alternated positions for about 3 miles. I was lucky to not get pulled over anyway -- as I was told that this is a common practice there: they look for out of state plates & pick on those drivers. It didn't occur to me then -- but now I can see that they are engaging in an unconstitutional restriction to free travel -- as they rake in the bucks. Win-win, for them.
My fav part was the Calico and ex feral ( ear tipped) black cat! I drive an EV but still enjoy this saga. MUCH respect for women who arent reliant on men to fix stuff!. And....Im a guy......
From MB,SC… Never been to or through Alabama but the law is gangster AF! I also don’t have any engine troubles but somehow found your page and got addicted to your journey 😂
Really enjoy these videos and your experimental design. I am happy to hear you’re still entertaining tear down though as I feel sure that’s the only way you’ll fix the consumption. If there was something easy in a bottle that fixed it, Toyota’s engineers would have had a TSB out for it years ago. Recall that the faulty ring issue impacted lots of their engine, even the might Lexus GS350, so Toyota definitely had the skin in the game to find the cheapest solution. Since that ended up being piston and ring replacement, I think you’re confirming their decision.
Ha ya, the great state of Alabama law enforcement , don't feel bad, I got pulled over 6 times between just south of Birmingham and Dothan, I was on my way to Tallahassee from Canada, going to visit one of my brothers. They sure loved my out of country plate ! I paid for just one, I was 5 over the speed limit. I run a forward and rear camera, it paid for itself during that trip !! My brother was laughing when I told him ! Thanks for the vids, be well!
When getting ready to rebuild running older engines in operational cars i usually drain about 3 quarts of oil and top off the crankcase with ATF. Then drive the vehicle for about 1000 miles before pulling the engine and braking it down. I learned this from an old race engine builder and i have always been amazed at well it works for cleaning the internals.
Your piston rings might be unstuck and unclogged from all of the treatments you have given them. But since they were stuck/clogged at one time that stopped oil from flowing through them that keeps them cool. If they overheated this could have caused additional wear and could have caused them to loose their "springiness", meaning they will not spring outward from the piston against the piston wall as strong as they should letting oil get buy.
Or if stuck, maybe uneven wear on the oil control ring/s for a while. Looks like oil in multiple cylinders. I think one video I watched showed some cross hatch on the cylinder walls, which is positive. Oil gets dirty pretty quick, so there is blow by to some extent I think.
Something to consider seriously is the fact the piston rings are worn at this mileage. So, in stop and go city driving, you'll have gasoline dilution of the oil and the level will seem to stay constant, but as soon as you do a long run down the highway, you'll see an apparent dramatic "consumption" and low oil level as the gasoline is boiled out.
I dont know if you tried yet. I did, with success, a flush with Atomex totalflush, where you drive with it in the engine for 150 km. Its supposed to free stuck piston rings aswell. Then drain it and fill new oil and added Rislone Compression repair. Helped in my case atleast.
It's not just Bama. Overpolicing and the court system have been used all over this country as a main revenue source. This kind of liberal use of enforcing laws leads to corruption. On a brighter note: this is an awesome series, thanks.
Well after fifty+ year of working on internal combustion engines I've never found a mechanic in a can or bottle!!! At one time in all those years I was a certified Knuckle Buster on Cat&Cummins. Back in the 70s I started using Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella 15W40 in everything I own!!! Currently I have a1992 lawn tractor with a 20hp Kohler and a 1995 F250 and both are running Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic and neither have a oil consumption PROBLEM!!!
Change your PCV valve again. They sometimes go faulty early on high mileage cars in as little as 10K miles. Its cheap and a good and easy test for your content. Props to you for your wonderful family and being an amazing father. Peace be unto you and yours.
Try a slightly thicker oil full synthetic 5w40 and make sure its a euro blend motor oil which is made for oil burning gdi engines. I use castrol euro 5w40 on a oil burning 2010 equinox and it reduced the burning by half
Dexron III ATF fluid in a mixture of 50/50 Acetone is what Ive had success multiple times with seized engines. My process. cold engine spark plugs out pour mixture 100ml in each cylinder. Check fluid level above piston and if its receded reapply, if not receded add 50ml of acetone. Do this everyday for 5 days before attempting to turn the crankshaft by hand. Obviously non running engine. So i have 2AZ-FE 2003 which im willing to try to reduce oil consumption, since it isn't seized. What i propose is the same process but this time move the pistons up and down the bores by rocking the crankshaft slightly each day after an application and leaving all pistons at the same height as per initial application of mixture and follow up applications Once the 5 days have passed check if the oil level has risen if so drain out until level correct. Clean out any excess mixture from cylinder bores before re-installing spark plugs. Run engine at idle until operating temperature, stop engine. Drain oil and filter overnight. Setup for initial oil consumption test. New oil and oil filter. New air filter and spark plugs. Use high detergent diesel engine oil. make sure oil level correct by running engine at idle until operating temperature, stop engine. Vehicle needs to be on a level surface and oil level checked 10 seconds after engine shut off to have the consistent amount of drain of oil back to the sump. Now that there is new oil in the engine accumulate 1000km and recheck consumption as per warmed up and on a level surface and checked 10 seconds after engine shutoff. Overall the engine oil needs to turn to its dark colour. NOTE (the contaminants are suspended in the oil until the oil breaks down due to lack of oil changes and the contaminants return to the engine) the change in oil colour is indicating its cleaning the inside of the engine to some degree. The oil needs to stay in the engine to utilise the oil filter, hopefully i can manage 5000kms before i change the oil, record findings and repeat process. So many other factors to consider. Consumption of oil through PCV system, Driving style, temperature of the time when driving, tyre pressures and quality of tyres, wheel alignment, dragging bakes, fuel filter replacement, fuel quality and consistent octane. Timing chains definatelty start to stretch over time and oil ports behind the oil control rings are a hard thing to unblock due to carbon. Then oil flow stops in the area, it was the flow keeping it clear by cleaning with fresh engine oil, oil flushes. Valve stem seals, valve guide to valve stem oil clearance. There is also a good possibility that the ring gap has changed to become larger even if a compression test yields a good result that doesn't totally determine oil consumption but its part of the bigger picture. Thankyou so much for this series.
Entertaining series, with a potential benefit to many...replete with nice scenery, kudos for a great effort. But I was curious if you purposely chose the worst, unredeemable oil burner Corolla engine according to our friend over at The Car Care Nut, and CoPilot? I've been reviewing easy to buy reliable cars lately and several reviewers categorize the 98-08 1zzfe as a notorious oil burner with 00-03 receiving special (bad) mention.
I really thought I was getting a great car. At the time of purchase, I had no idea it was one of the worst oil-burners in history. ... But that has been a blessing in disguise, as it's one of the most ubiquitous engines on the planet.
Hi Dave, I am going through a similar issue with my Isuzu trooper with 6VE1 engine. I recently switched to rotella 5w40 and it’s too early to say for sure but it is appearing to help. It is my understanding that these engines also have similar problems with the rings. I would be curious to see the results with your Corolla. Keep up the good work and thank you so much for the videos!
2001 Trooper 3.5 same engine 320K miles...getting ready to try the Berryman B12 test myself in the next few days :) Tried everything else pretty much, with no help. 300 miles per quart at interstate speeds, 500 miles or more at 60mph or less. I really don't want to replace that truck! (they are expensive!) But it runs perfect with tons of power, and starts immediately.
If the oil loss is coming through the rings and freeing the rings only helps a litte, then time to boost the PCV system for better crank case vacuum , maybe use oil that has the lowest evaporative loss, remember the stuff used to free the rings also thins the oil so it will have more evap loss overall . have you used liquimoloy mos2 yet? worked great in my isuzu
Im thinking 🤔....pull all 4 plugs and fill the cylinders with JB weld... Tow the Corolla to a monster jam event and let em run it over...piss on it...then flatbed it to Alabama and drop it off at the police station with a huge bow on the roof as a present to the cop who wrote the ticket... 😂...
Wowwww, that cop though! Tis why you install a straight up DVR/NVR. They make them with with as many camera inputs as ya wanna pay for on the upper end. Picked mine up for less than the last falsified speeding ticket I got a few years back. Not that they couldn't just say "show your recording with the gps receiver calculated speed overlay to the judge" while handing out the ticket anyway...
If the HPL Engine cleaner and the HPL 5W30 didnt solve that issue, its beyond an Oil additive solution. The ANs and Esters contained in that product normally cut through sludge, carbon and varnish like a hot knife through butter. Time to re-think your approach to this issue and look at a mechanical solution. Also, I never observed you changing the Oil filter on the Corolla. If that's the case, it's most likely clogged up and running in Bypass mode. Just saying. Good luck on your journey 😊Nothing wrong with keeping that old girl running.........the Car, that is......😂
You should try DMSO Dimethyl sulfoxide, 20w40 plus 250ml DMSO engine idling for one hour, then another flush for 40 minutes with sligthly reving the engine, you just need to remove the inner paint on your sump because DMSO will delaminate the paint.
I want to see you soak the pistons again with a chemical like toluene or xylene. maybe mix it with some ATF or MMO and change the oil before you do an italian tune up
I look forward to these videos.Thanks for sharing .So sorry to see the bad luck with the Police.Your family are very nice .All the best from Tassie Australia..
I'm thinking you should go back to the B12, but first drain the oil, then leave the plug out and keep the pistons covered with B12 for a couple of days, reusing the B12 that leaks past the rings and out of the oil drain.. preferably through a tube into a bottle or such to minimize evaporation.
that will be a great idea, also to add to that procedure as to when you drain the oil, probably pour half gallon of gasoline in the crankcase to take the residue oil that's left over.
I have found that you want to use the reamer as much as possible until it's easy to pull in and out. That makes pulling the plug in a lot easier. I have also see the plug installer snap, allowing the metal rod hurt your hand. I think it's awesome she wanted to learn how to change and plug the tire.
Great video! My daughter has a Kia with the 2.4L and it burns a lot of oil too. The only oil that I've found that will slow hers down quite a bit is the Super Tech High Mileage full syn from Walmart in the 10W-30 flavor. It really slows it down quite a bit. Unfortunately it doesn't stop it though.
Berrymans there was a decrease in oil consumption Cro 505 the compression difference between cylinders decreased The Yamaha ring free removed a lot of carbon deposits in the cylinders. Driving a long long(to Florida) distance may have played a role in the lower oil consumption. Try the same long drive with synthetic? The knocking occurs when there is a lot of carbon build up on the piston and cylinder head. The carbon gets hot and can set off combustion early (knocking and pinging).
I think you need to find an oil with the highest flash point. With a high detergent. Pennzoil and Amsoil synthetics according to another RU-vid channel Project Farm is those with high flast points. I believe along with your b12 treatments it would make for a well rounded test. Start with a quality oil that stand up. I have a old pickup I just run 15w-40. The thicker oil makes up for the upset of the rings. Am going to do the b12 piston soak. With mmo and lucas upper lubricant in the fuel at constant. Going to try the chemical test plethora at mine as well. Tried bg engine flush in the red can. Had seen no drastic improvement. Doing the seafoam in the crankcase while running it at the moment. Need to do a piston soak as well. Cant hurt it right! Either way I am looking at a vehicle that currently is cheaper/able to have more fun in than a newer vehicle! Even at a motor swap!
Have you tried Engine Restore? It claims to deposit copper, silver, and lead in the upper cylinder area and stop oil burning as long as you keep using it. A lot of people claim it's the only liquid chemical treatment that actually works.
My 07 Camry reached 2,385 miles and the final dipstick was 1/3 of the dipstick from the top dot. I could have gone 5k miles and not have to add oil but decided to perform a 2nd Berrymans B12 piston soak. I decided to perform a second piston soak, with the engine warmed up, turning the crank 5 revolution and continued every 6 hours. I also added 1/2 oz of transmission fluid into each cylinder and sprayed a little engine starter fluid to save the starter and it did start right away. I proceeded to run the engine at 4500 rpm for 20 minutes. As an addition I added 1 quart of diesel fuel in the engine oil and let it idle for 10 minutes and Drain and added 5w-20 Kirkland synthetic oil. Rather than going on long drives on the weekends. My daughter is driving the Camry to commutes to college and works. She is driving about 260 miles plus per week. Oil checked this morning with 1250 miles, the dipstick shows slightly below the top dot about 1/8". I would say this better than the first piston soak. I have noticed that oil reading differs from overnight(lower) rather than checking the engine after 30 minutes to 1 hour after driving as the engine is still warm. I will keep you up to date as the millage accumulates.
Had good luck restoring compression on my RSX with SeaFoam Deep Creep soaking the cylinders overnight a few times. It has the same cleaning agents as seafoam but it’s also a creeping lubricant.
You could try a soak of Industrial Strength White Vinegar. Ive seen videos that shows it eating carbon off better than any other additive. Maybe a 48 hour soak or something. Occasionally rocking the crank back and forth to move the rings while its soaking.
Hello Dave, thanks for this very interesting and informative series. My vote would be not to tear down the motor and for you to continue the testing. I have always been a believer and user of B12 and Amsoil, but would also love the see the BK products tested as well. At the beginning of the HPL you dropped in mileage. Maybe HPL is a great cleaner but not a great oil, i would be interested to see a switch back to your kirkland oil and see if that last longer the 800 to 1000 after the HPL treatment. Anyways keep up the great work.
As I mentioned in another comment on another video, I had a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country that was burning a quart in 3,500 miles, more than any other car I owned. Then one day I changed to oil to Castrol Syntec and it made it to the 10,000 mile oil change interval on less than a quart of loss. This continued for a couple of years until one day I changed to valvoline synthetic, and sure as heck, a quart low at 3,500 miles. At the next oil change I switched back to the Castrol Syntec and the oil burning stopped. From that day on I never used any other brand of oil. Except in yacht with diesels. I did run that one for 300 hours with no loss of oil either, but it does hold almost 5 gallons and low to high mark on the stick is 1 gallon. I use Rotella T-5 in that one and am thinking of moving on up to the T-6. The time before I used the T-4 with similar results. On that note, perhaps using 15-40 diesel oil might do the trick. Lots of addatives in there and just a little thicker.
Really interesting on how you are trying different products to solve a very known factory defect that a lot of the older Toyota’s do to bad engineering but it would really help other people to try and see their options on this problem plus it give us all info on what is available on the market that just might help with a older engine that a person wants to keep running as long as they can, I like all the product information you have given and I know slot of other people feel the same thanks and good luck on it.
You should try a 5w/40 oil which should be used after around 150,000 miles. Keep up the good work and maybe look into XADO additives. They are very good. Cheers
My mechanic says diesel fuel in the cylinders, let it soak for a few days, it will run past the rings and along with contaminating the engine oil it will soften and bust up the carbon that's preventing the oil control rings from working as designed, change the oil and filter and you should see considerable improvement
I have a 96 F250 with the 7.3 powerstroke that was replaced in 2018. It started consuming oil around 57k miles about a quart per 1500 miles. I switched to HPL ck 5w40 at 65k after two complete oil changes it was less than 1 quart every 3000 miles and now at 83k miles it has completely stopped using oil. I’ve also switched to the premium version which allows for more miles between changes.
I’m a Toyota nut, have three with tags. I have a 97 Corolla, at. Doesn’t burn nearly as much oil as yours but at high speeds (75-80mph ) does burn oil. A lifelong friend, Toyota technician of 30 years tells me the oil holes behind the rings are too small and bad to clog up, causing oil consumption. I think 2001 and earlier are better vehicles
Honda Odyssey have a big problem burning oil due to the fuel management system shuts down the rear 3 cylinders. I switched to using Valvoline VR1 20w50 as an experiment to see if a thicker oil will reduce blow by. And it did. This van would burn oil a quart every week or so. Miles will vary because i use it as a work van. Its probably 400 to 500 a week. Now the oil consumption is down to about a quart every 2 weeks. It obviously isnt a permanent repair. But it does cost less to run. I used to need to buy 10 qts of oil for 1 oil change interval. (5qt capacity) now i can get by on 7 to 8qts in 5k miles. I also used to get a code for the vvt oil pressure and that went away a year ago when i switched to using mobil 1 oil filters. The oil is black but it seems like it has less larger dirt particles in it. I have never bothered to send the oil in to get it analyzed. Long story short, a thicker oil will slow consumption. Although it may consume more fuel now.
I propose doing an oil change with 5w30 oil for diesel engines, oil for diesel engines contains more detergent than regular engine oil to clean carbon.
Years ago I recall seeing on the 16 oz cans of liquid wrench that had a spout on top, it said to add to oil 100 miles before oil change to dissolve carbon from inside engine but never knew of anyone that tried it. Who knows ? Maybe it works…could be worth a try 🤷🏻
Did you do a leak down test to determine if it is rings of valve seals causing the problem? If it is the rings I doubt if you will correct it without tearing down the engine
Thank you for your videos. I watched all of the series with real pleasure. Moreover I tried to use some of the chemicals on my car, but eventually ended up with a complete rebuild, which is where I live not that expensive, even if using top brand parts - the complete rebuild cost me last year approx. 500$ :) Now the engine (almost 200k miles and 18k miles after the rebuild) is perfectly fine and finally no oil consumption whatsoever. Greetings from Europe. BTW - this Alabama scams made me sad for America
Have you thought about using a catch can to stop the engine feeding oil back into the cylinders with blow back and continually gumming up the rings. This may give the rings a chance to free themselves up while running. As far as I can see that the emissions control is a recipe for disaster when excessive oil is returned to the top end of the engine to be burnt off. Burt oil creates carbon. Carbon is hard and scratches bores. Carbon will gum up rings and you will lose your seal. Just a thought. One I’m going to try myself.
I think he discussed the catch can idea in the earlier stages of this series. Don't quote me on that as I can't remember for sure now and I wouldn't even know which video to point you to in order to try to find it but I think he mentioned something about this a while back. Maybe time to binge watch the series all over again? Just a thought? ;-)
@@johnmilner7603 Only after pull my own cars throttle body off to clean and seeing how much oil has gummed it up and the air intake manifold was loaded with oil I can’t believe when the rings aren’t working properly that more oil doesn’t return through the emissions control. Even the return hose from the rocker cover was loaded with oil. It’s just a thought.
@@eldridge201 I have been binging but I must have missed it. But having worked on cars myself I’d be surprised if you can get a solution to clean the carbon from the rings. The examples I’ve had to deal with the carbon was hard like rock and after removing the rings the carbon had to be scraped out to clean the ring grooves and it feels just like sand.
Hi , I’m a Mechanic by trade and also a tool maker part time . Ok My question is if Berryman got you a 400 mile jump in oil mileages, Why did you not just do the Berrymans treatment AGAIN???? That’s what I would tell my guys to Do at the shop??????
Good question. I actually did a second treatment (I think there were 3 total Berryman's videos) and didn't see more improvement ... BUT a lot of people have said Berryman's did fully cure their oil-burning issues. ... I still recommend Berryman's over everything ... was just trying to give other additives a shot.
Have you tackled the PCV system yet. There are two sides to the PCV system. One is the overload line that works under WOT. Leave that alone. Then there is the line that works under idle and light cruise. Leave it plumbed exactly like factory but cut the line where you can put a sealed can that can catch the oil before going back into the intake. It will usually be a 3/8 line, a simple large jar crammed with course stainless steel scubbers with 3/8 connectors either side of the lid would be a simple crude setup to see how much oil goes back into the intake.
I think you had the best cleaning performance with the yamalube ring free. I have a 2006 CRV with 185k miles which was burning 1 qt per 1500 miles, one bottle of ring free in the fuel tank (based on your video) and wow, huge difference, about double - 1qt per 3k miles. If you do another test give ring free another try
On a different video, i have noticed gumout to clean better than B12. Also B12 dirt comes off in bigger flakes where gumout, dirt dissolves more into a powder. Wouldn't mind seeing gumout used in a piston soak. Keep up the good work!
I think there should be 2 more steps. 1. BG Dynamic restoration, as everyone suggest. It's expensive compared to others, I've never used it, but heard a lot of good things about it. And no other channel used it in such a trustworthy way as you would. And if that doesn't work.. 2. DMSO. The big boss of chemical treatments. The last resort. DMSO is like the strongest antibiotic if it was a medicine, it obliterates everything in it's way. Good, bad, sticky, it simply doesn't care, because how harsh it is on your engine. It definitely strips paint, so make sure your oil pan doesn't have any before using it. if DMSO won't help - nothing will, and you can definitively state, the problem is mechanical, not chemical. Other than that, thank you for your content! Even though I fixed my issue completely with Berryman after seeing it on your channel, I still enjoy these series!!
Hey Dave I recently did a trip through Alabama as well and I noticed the state troopers pull just about everybody over, luckily we got off pretty easily even though we were in a rental van from Ontario. It looks like we took the same routes you did as we went from Virginia to Atlanta and there to Montgomery.
Not trying to be mean here but what is your point of discussing moving the location of the spare tire? Are you referring to when it's not in use in general? If so, to my knowledge, the spare tire is located in the back when it's not being used and it's in the trunk to my knowledge. The only ones that I know of that have the spare in the middle of the vehicle are minivans (I had a few Dodge or Chrysler minivans where this was the case). If you're referring to switching the rear tire that is good to the front when there is a flat on the front so you would put the good spare tire in the rear, I don't know why you would waste your time doing that. A spare isn't meant to be used long term and is just meant to get you to a location where you can get the real tire fixed or replaced as needed. You're referring to doing something that really isn't necessary. You can obviously do whatever you want if you think it's worth it but really, it probably isn't in "most" cases. But also, the small amount of weight savings that a spare tire has compared to a full sized wheel and tire combo on this car is minimal and won't really change anything. If you think it has anything to do with the oil burning, it won't. If it's about aerodynamics, then again, this isn't even worth worrying about. If it's about a safety issue by having a spare in the front rather than the back, then you can argue that but if having a spare tire in the front was a safety issue, then vehicle manufacturers would be getting sued left and right with all the accidents this would cause. However, you don't see that happening and there's a reason. It's because there's nothing wrong with having a spare tire up front. You're over thinking things. Don't over complicate things like this. It's just wasteful and unnecessary.
if I didn't know any better, I would be looking at valve stem seals or HG. In one video you could see the oil leaking down from the top of the cylinder. that is not a ring issue.
My 2017 Hyundai Elantra burned about a quart of oil every 1000 miles. I added 4oz of AT-205 to my fresh oil change and after 3800 miles, it completely stopped the consumption. I'm about 1000 miles into my next oil change and so far I haven't had to add anything! Give that a shot!
Well It looks like you have not tried Engine Restorer, which is more common and readily available. It is a copper/lead/and cleaner type variant. I am familiar with a similar product called CLM back in the early 1980's and it saving my 240Z engine that was run without oil for almost 90 miles in 95 degree mountainous driving
Most if not all fuel additives are very hard on spark plugs. I would change them to ensure good combustion which would reduce oil contamination and overall usage. Maybe even a hotter plug. Cheers
Dave I have watched all of your videos on oil consumption and I can not find where you have used one of the top go to products, Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. I did a lot of the same things you did on my car to clean piston rings, it helped a lot! Still was burning oil, but not as much. Before I added Lucas, while the car was running I took the oil cap off and a fine mist of oil spray shot out. Added Lucas and drove the car to let it mix and warm up. Took the cap oil cap off and their was a notable decrease in fine spray. Also a notable decrease in engine oil burning. IMHO the sticky glue like Lucas oil treatment reduces the amount of fine oil mist, and it is the fine oil mist that can easily make it through the PCV system into the piston chamber where it can be burned.
