HTS DRILLING at 900 rpm is UNREAL (you need to see this) 

i think they accidentally sold you a tunnel boring machine. unbelievable, liked and subscribed

Chatter is usually from a harmonic in the material. Try a 100-120 RPM change each direction to see which gives the better result. Some insert tooling hates to be run conservatively, others protest being run hard. Keep the feed rate the same for that test. If there is zero change, keep the RPM and slightly vary the feed rate +/- 5%. One of these will generally give a result leading to a good finish and less tool wear.

Most anyone that has ever done any machining realizes that setups usually take a lot longer than the actual job.

Its great to see Australian manufacturing and like the presentation.

The tool you have is perfect for the low flow coolant volume and pressure your machine has. The large chips only have to evacuate past the head, and will not get stuck in the smaller diameter past the head I have read the comments, and many suggest guide pads, but this would require an expensive upgrade to a large powerful coolant system and possibly an STS drilling setup, both of which are way more expensive than the option you chose.. I spent half my career manufacturing deep hole drills, and the second half designing them. This was good stuff, and I really believe you have the best tool for the application and restraints you face. And no, I didn't work for Kennametal, so it's not a sales pitch.

About 50 years ago I worked for a company making shock absorbers for the US space industry, we used an Oerlikon system that had 2 tubes, the coolant came up between the tubes and the swarf was carried down the central tube, we had a huge coolant tank linked to car radiators to keep the coolant cool, the finish in the bored tube was like it had been honed.

I like your humble approach to what you show in your videos. Hopefully, this will keep the negative element that is common on social media to a minimum. The vibration you noticed with the Drill is fairly common especially with this amount of tool engagement. It's like you mentioned. It's a Roughing tool much like a U Drill. I wouldn't be too concerned about the vibration, just as long as you don't start picking up any chatter, which will start eating through Inserts almost as quickly as you went through this material 👍

That's pretty nuts. That thing is a monster

Very impressive. This from me being entertained, not that I any experience whatsoever machining. Even, worth a sub. ✊🏻

if vibration and squealing is present the normal rule is to slow the RPM down.This has worked for me using a 25mm WC series carbide-tipped U drill into 4140. Thanks for the video, impressive drill bit.

Looks very good. There is a RU-vid channel you might be interested in called David Wilks. He seemed to stop posting video's now but they are still there. He showed the most amazing trepanning operations I would have never believed possible in some very difficult materials using home made tools on old conventional lathes. If you haven't seen them it's worth viewing.

These HTS KENNAMETAL TOOL need‘s a REAL STRONG machine with a rock solid tool post. If it is not stabil, the drilling resistance increases enormously and you destroy the inserts. I remember , 25 years ago, the old ŠKODA W200 , SK 60 with a 180mm Walter HTS … nice to hear how the heavy chips are falling … but the remaining piece was really dangerous!!! A bit like a boomerang that never comes back…👍👍👍😎 Cheers from other side of the planet!

People like you and videos like these are relevant, interesting and definitely educational. A sad thing has occurred since your company started 60 years ago. A lot of our world has gotten incredibly dumber. Just routine no specials. No challenges. First video of yours I was hooked. Out side the box, uniquely modified or shop created tools. No blah blah blah bland stuff. Exciting and adventurous to achieve bigger, better faster, largest, first of, you get it. That intrigues me and drew me right in. You have a pleasant and very peaceful demeanor, you are incredibly humble and honest and are a humble learner wanting to improve your craft, make customers and your own life easier. These are traits that are so profoundly scarce today. Where others accept "dumb down" you refuse to live a blah blah ho hum life. You push the limits and go for excellence in the process as well as the product, That is the key my friend that made the industrial revolution! Look at some of the old lathes and machines from the 30's and 40's. Your quest for excellence reminds me of those old machines I worked on 40+ years ago. Computers are great for what they are for but creativity like yours comes out of that computer between your ears. That is in truth where innovation really begins. Stay at that you will stand out in your profession if you keep steady dong so! I know I am bubbling over here but this channel, you, your work ethic and your quest for excellence has got me fired up. Keep it coming I am now subscribed and will be a regular!!!

The only way I've ever been able to control chatter is to increase the feed a little. Mind you I'm really old, and most of mt work has been done in the Aerospace industry. I went through my Tool and Die makers apprenticeship course over 30 years ago. Most of my work was done afterward was done with Stainless, Aluminium, Titanium, and Inconel types steel. Looks like a real timesaver, and leaves a beautiful finish. Great job.

That sounded great considering the tool length. The chips looked good, too. And the spot drill in the tool tip didn't have any colour changes either, so I would say you did a great job! I would find it interesting to know which feed you had going. Looked something like 0.4mm/rev to me, which would be quite alot for the spot drill I think. Ok for one part but maybe not for a series. I'd be careful with adding the coolant on tools already engaged for more than a second, because they could get a shock and break. Would you consider adding feed info in future vids?

I imagine that tool was an investment, but it _works._

Always nice to see someone working outside of the box. I have some customers that could use this technique to help their process. Cheers!

Thanks for the show guys 🍻

I've always put a centre in first when running spade drills, horizontal or vertical its always worked for me. Nice work 👍

Nice job ! Yes as a previous comment said, experimenting up or down with the rpm usually fixes things for me. Hard to believe but sometimes a difference of 50 rpm makes a huge improvment. Cheers from Canada.🍻

Iam really impressed. I never used one of these. The surface is way better than i had expected.

Looking forward to enjoying your channel!

I've never had much luck with these drill as far as getting a decent finish in the hole in the last 20 years, anything without guide pads isn't going to leave a great finish. The one thing that you can do to shut it up is take a decent size C-clamp (like a 200mm/8" or bigger one) and clamp it on the shank part way down to the head. That will dampen it and you can just move the clamp as needed and then you only have to listen to it for the last little bit or if the shank is long enough you can just leave it on. Don't know the physics behind it, something to do with stress, but it works so I just call it magic.

Wow! That was impressive.

.006 thou per rev divide two teeth is .003 per flute. Ran a radial arm drill with a 7 1/2 " spade drill thru 1215 steel two feet deep. It shook the floor and the chips churning out the top sounded like pieces of flat bar when they hit the floor. We had a 120" Bullard VTL. One RPM was 30 feet per minute at the outside of the chuck.

Love the jib crane set up might need one for my shop when it's built 😜

Cool. Thanks for sharing.

Yes Sir that was truly Awsome !!!!

HTS drills always make that same loud sound. When the drill is silent, that means the drill is jamming up with chips. Clamping a steady rest on the drill shank with plastic pads, can help with vibration.

I was pleasantly surprised the inserts didn't shatter as the coolant started flowing. You must have started the flow before they hit metal. Possibly add some weighted rings to the shank of that bar. Change the frequency it vibrates at. Not in the middle, not 1/3 + 2/3 either.

"My only goal... is to either be learning or sharing what I've learned, there's no ego here" A (very slight) paraphrasing I grant you, but those words alone got you a like and a sub and are awesome words to keep in mind through life in general.

Your sub count is going to rocket very soon , GREAT CHANNEL !! Love from England.

When you faced the piece, there was a sharp peak left in the face center, this would suggest your cutter was slightly below center, . Would this have caused the drill to be slightly off when it started, causing noise and possibly chatter.

I have run long bores at times and used a few Owings down the length of the bar to disapait some if not all the vibration...trybit and hope it helps!

Thanks for burning the cash on the tool and sharing with us 😎🍻

Commenting not just for the algorithm, but for the tool. Thats a nice bit of gear. I'm enjoying the vidios. If you could show some of the finished product and a bit of explanation of how its used would be nice. Cheers, Butch. ps, no pressure.

Man... I'll tell ya, he's not wrong. I _did_ need to see this. Makes me feel like a catastrophic failure of the machine would be breathtaking although probably it would just be a single loud snap. Very cool, fascinating to watch. Thank you. 🙂

Used to run the big U drill that you show at the end, daily on 42-48 Rockwell stock! Made many chips with them drills. Done most of it on an old WWII turret lathe, some on a Mori Seiki SL-65.

It won't be much but i'd be trying to shorten up/rigidise that indicator setup and maybe using a test indicator rather than a dial to reduce the weight. I bet you're getting more sag with that much stick-out than you think. A tiny starting divot with a centre drill couldn't hurt either. I've been trying out a new Multi Function drill on the first job on our brand new ST30-Y and already had to re-align the turret after I pushed it too hard so that was fun 😆

I would suggest you run coolant before you touch the material if you started drilling and switch it on while in the material the drill can get damaged and the inserts can crack/break. Had that happen to me

Yes it takes time to set up. And lots of HP and torque to drill large diameter holes. And lots of coolant pressure to flush chip out! I sold them for a major carbide company some years back. Drilled a hole 3” in diameter into 718 Inconel. No one else could even do it.

I run these drills all the time, have a Ø78 400mm long permanently in the magazine as my default drill. I can tell you, they stop making noise when the chips don't get out. So noise = good.

A great video! When working on the outer diameter cross section before drill work Even though I went to the smallest diameter point, the point remains at the center of the material. This means that the height of the tool insert wire is low, and to solve this problem If you cut and add sandpaper under the tool, it will be solved. It's not a fundamental solution, but if it's a chronic problem, such as the aging of the machine In the long run, the results will not be bad if you respond like this.

We love watching a big drill. So 900 rpm, but what feed rate please?

Try strapping something rubbery around the shaft of the drill to absorb the vibration. Maybe one of the vibration damping sheet materials that are available.

I've ran a couple of these drills verry often and some noise is normal, i don't know if I saw it correctly but you've seem to have gotten the double Trigon holders, there are also finishing holders with one square at the edge and they produce a lot better surface. But it depends on the machine, I've felt like they need a lot of Torque and feed to stay relatively quiet and get a good finish. I've normally ran mine at about 280m/min with ≈ 0.18-0.25 f/rev in similar steels. But they need a lot of experimentation hence they perform very different depending on your machine rigidity and Tourqe

I drill rifle barrels with gundrills 2500 rpm 1” a minute up to 33” long. From .195” to .5”

Reminds me of sleeves for torque jars or rotator index tools

Impressive! Thank you.

Drills like this are amazing when the cutting edge and the cutting conditions go smoothly.Close watch, usually using the "load meter" built into the CNC equipment, is important or a drill body can get wiped out in a hurry.These drills aren`t cheap, not like the cost of a everyday twist drill.

Great video thanks for posting

There's a combination of reasons why a vibration pattern is occurring. #1 The Insert head design itself. There's basically no side support behind the cutting inserts with that head design. It's not designed for achieving a truly good finish. For instance, Sandovik, Iscar heads for large holes have none cutting-edge support carbide inserts behind the cutting inserts, this produces a very good finsh, how many are determined on the bore diameter, larger the bore more support is needed [ centering insert provides no support ] These cushion inserts behave like a follow rest on a manual lathe turning thin shafts, without it"""!😉 Bar deflection is basically the enemy here. If the bar was 12" long your results would be completely different than one 39" inches long. You could experiment with altering spindle speeds during cutting, this changes the harmonic frequency which shows itself as a repeated pattern. Changing the speeds on the fly breaks this repeated pattern. You could get a better designed insert supported head or make a brass clamping slip ring that is able to pass the chips but slightly smaller than the ID, to give the bar support behind the cutting inserts. I was a machinist many years working for a shop that did deep hole drilling, up to 15' feet 1/2 to 8" bores. We had 2 sandovik deep hole boring attachments. When drilling say 4140/4340 the bores were like a mirror finish! Cutter head design with support is the key to bore finish, if thats what you looking for. It boils down to how much money and ingenuity you want to devote to the process 😊

My experience with that is when the center drill gets dulled down, the vibration will go away. I ran a 5.7” Komet drill in a Trevisan with S225 F1.08” and every time we changed the center drill it would vibrate until it got the sharp edge worn in.

I am not a machinist. I am an engineer. In watching the video I noticed the long unsupported length of the drill and wondered about vibration. Is it possible to use two steady rests on the drill shaft, one just behind the drill as close as possible to the chuck? The second could be placed at the middle of the drill of the drill shaft. Remove the midpoint steady rest when appropriate. There is a possibility that harmonics could create vibrations. The drill and lathe manufacturers should be able to provide assistance.

Try an ejector drill it burnishes the bore as it drills and uses a high pressure pump to clear the swarf. The holes were over a meter and a half deep and 30mm diameter

You should make a shorter arm for your indicator when measuring the runout, and thread it in the senter off the bolt in the chuch. The long arm and the magnet can give you a false reading when handing upside down

I noticed a delay before the coolant started. When I had a program that did that it shocked the carbide insert and reduced the lifespan.

Maybe in bigger tooling like this video shows, an extra finishing cutter and thus cut could be used to finish the diameter by say, .010 inch on the outstroke. Probably a 'mirror smooth' result. This cutter would 'pop-out' on the return stroke as an additional tool head on the tool shown working here.

Try a dynamic rpm if possible avoids a vibration building. The change should stop any harmonic resonance.

WOW! Super work.

That's unbelievable Matt. Very impressive, thanks for sharing. Good job.👍👍

That's some high speed removal. How much does it drift off-center over the length of the bore?

wow, great chip maker, I am only an amateur, but your vibration issue could be just the stick out of the tool, so perhaps a steady rest (an automatic one), which swings away once the bit is a few inches in the cut, aka like the other tools in a cnc machine, just adding this step to the programming. Also as an extra step, adding a smaller drilled hole in the end, like for a tail centre may ease the outer cutters in, being centred by a pre existing starter hole for the centre bit.

wow just wow

sharp

I like to see to setups. So keep em cuming. We dont have any this type of engineering in the UK. We are purely a service industry to be honest. Cheers matey. Fabulous channel.

Awesome 👍

LoL @ "Man, some of the stuff these guys break will blow your mind". Having been a Geo on both down-the-hole hammer & wire-line diamond core rigs (as well as a part-time driller myself) , nothing really surprises me. Reminds me of "A Man can screw a pig, but it takes a Driller to screw it to death" 😮 They can be a tad heavy handed, hey? Particularly if they're on metreage. Loved seeing your HTS drill rip into that big lump of 4140. That thing was making chips as fast a 10" tungsten button bit hammer drill 👍

Sometimes, giving the drill a soft start, say, go about 10mm deep at 1/2 the feed, then accelerate to full feed. Same for exiting the part.

Historical The best man has ever done

Here in the states I work for a company that does parts for the mining industry. Recently did 4340 rollers that was 15” long 17” diameter with a 4.625 hole thru. Wonder how well something like that would work? 1 pass thru or multiple passes. Nice videos you have !

You could try wrapping the bar with some inner tube or rubber bands. That would cut down on harmonic distortion.

nice to see a little bit of proper machining instead of wire-wool turning. 👍 I've used drills like this quite a lot and if the machine has the HP i'd consider loading it a bit more per RPM - maybe 0.2 possibly with a slight drop in RPM - should give comparable cycle times. I really wonder just how rigid the toolpost arrangement is though if im honest. Vibration dampening can sometimes be done by wrapping a bicycle inner tube tightly down the shank and securing it with a couple of jubilee-clips (or hose clips or whatever you call them). This is how i've reduced the resonance in the past. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Same thing also works with smaller boring bars and elastic bands.

Used to do a lot of this when I worked for Baker Hughes.

When I was an apprentice machinist we were always told that if there was vibration or chattering on the tool or the workpiece to drop the rpm in 50 rpm increments, that however was 50 years ago so I’m guessing there has been Huge advances in tools so that could be bum advice 😂

As a 39 year machinist that refuses to own or operate CNC equipment I gotta say thats badass. It would literally take me 5 hours to do that with twist drills on my WW2 vintage LeBlond lathe. Not including lunch.

Just found the Chanel that is an amazing drill

OMG you ground up the pink panther 🎉

Try to contact the guys from "Tiefbohrtechnik" in Germany. They know all about drills and stuff.

Used to run my indicator like that until someone showed me indicator droop. When its upside down it will sag and throw off your measurement by .10-.20mm. Nice drill though. Glad your's makes that horrible noise too.

Drills have the highest Material Removal Rate. Those are some nice chips.

Good Day Matt...best wishes from Florida, USA, Paul

Lawd, that’s some piece of kit, almost chewed it’s way through 😮

hmm yes that's an instant sub. i'm in Holland CAM programming and running large work. Cheers.

That is really impressive 👍👍

the squealing noise is due to shank being a lot smaller than the drill head , so the torque is trying to wind up over the long length of the tool , i doubt you would be able to stop it without the shank being a lot bigger , this would reduce the swarf space and negate one of he positives of the design . You could try adding a split ring around the shank as a damper to test the theory while the drill is not too deep , if the changes the freq of the tone then that may prove it.

That’s the most nerve wracking thing I have ever seen haha.

Being a machinist in the blue collar industry is the creme de la creme of occupations because you can go just about anywhere where there's production.

Good job 👍

Absolutely terrifying.

I think I'd wrap the shank with solder wire and cover that with something to keep it tight to act as a damper.

i would reduce the feed the feed for the first 5-10 mm with 50% and then go full force

reduce your revs or increase your feed to get rid of the vibration

Lower the RPM and adjust the feed rate until the tool stops chattering.

That thing is one hungry beast!

Amazing

Great video, mate! She’s a beast!

Very nice! That thing is a hoss💪😎 Best wishes from your Allies, in the other hemisphere 😊

Mmm raspberry milkshake coolant - my favorite ❤

Sorry for all the Kennametal fan's but the original design of this drill is from Karl HERTEL AG Germany (Kenna just bougt the company years ago and put their brand name on it - just as they did with the carbide drills)