Hull work, asbestos removal and a small fire 

Your Pirate comment at the end made my day as I think that was also. I'm a retired U.S. Merchant Marine Chief Engineer and it warms my heart to see someone taking the time to bring an Old Girl back to life. Your Videos show what it's really like to do the type of jobs that you're doing and your personality really makes them entertaining! You're doing a great job and after your "little" fire you are now qualified to be a Welder at most of the U.S. Shipyards that I've ever been in for repairs. LOL After having to put out yet another fire in my Engine Room, I jumped on the welder for not having a Fire Watch in the adjacent compartment. I will forever remember his answer, "But Chief, I thought that anything that could burn burned in yesterday's fire". For one of the few times in my Adult Life, I was left speechless. Keep up the great work and I'll be waiting patiently for the next one to come out.

Love your sense of humor regarding the "small fire" and "XXXX" comment! I'm really enjoying following this journey through binge watching.

Have to love this guy. Good natured, good humored, and someone who takes a good beer when the day to day gets to be a bother. I’m lucky that my daughter married an Aussie, and a good sailor as well.

While this project lends itself to an enormous amount of “colorful language”, it continues to amaze me how you are able to compose yourself into making an abundance of intriguing, interesting, informative, and captivating videos. I am not a big boat aficionado (landlocked in the heartland of the States), but I follow your quest word for word and frame to frame.

i've watched all your boat repair videos up to this point and will continue to do so, i think they're very educational. a ceremonial dagger would be cool!

I don't know the first thing about boating, I'm not a mechanic, I'm an ignoramus about welding and yet, I just love your videos.. Found out I understand quite a lot more than what I would have given myself credit for, strangely... Thanks for sharing!

At 7:38; "where's my big screwdriver? Oh, here it is". I love it. Not too many problems that can't be solved with a bigger hammer!

The Fourex comments: priceless. 10 points, right there. Go Stu!

Another Saturday evening in the highlands of South Africa, near Lesotho (no ocean in sight ) and i just had to sit down and enjoy this video. Great stuff as always and keep them coming.

Best thing about xxxx is that nobody asks you for one.

Over 1000 likes and not even 1 dislike. Proof of the quality content you make Stu 👍

Hi Stu, Enjoy your new tools and give them some abuse 👍 Another term for the “big screwdriver” is, get the “Persuader”, lol. Another exceptional episode mate. Cut out the inner part of the tank cover gasket , fit it in dry, no gasket goo and with studs and Stainless nyloc nuts, and use the remaining rubber for other jobs. Otherwise you will just chase the nuts or bolts when tightening with Hylomar on it. Historically, tank inspection/ access hatches have studs and nuts fitted. Asbestos or “Monkey Dung” as it was called in the Navy years ago, treat every item your not sure about as Asbestos, your asbestos mate will keep you right. Your doing a grand job Stu. Cheers Malc Qld

And you most definitely do need to remove anything that obscures the view of the interior of the hull. My boat is wood, and 48 feet long, and I have been removing installed furniture and refrigeration units and various other things just so that I can inspect every square inch of the hull. This is not because it's desirable, but because it is essential. Go Stu! [corrected "hall" to hull]

Mate of mine welded up the left rear corner on his Volvo 142 when the boot caught on fire. I reached in and got his half full plastic jerrycan out which was also on fire. I remember it looked bit like a comet when I threw it out and away from our garage, still on fire, landing like a napalm canister. That one got my blood pumping!

Leaving the center in the tank inspection gaskets gives you one less edge to leak, I like that.

A handy trick for putting holes in rubber is chucking up a wad punch in the drill and using it with a little bit of wd-40 etc to drill the holes through the rubber. Have used this for making dumptruck mudflaps out of conveyor belt. Great progress being made on the boat 👍🏻👍🏻

Loved the bit about the dagger for pirates lol

Quick emergency access will be essential into your boat cabinets, especially if that's where you're storing the beer and ceremonial anti-pirate dagger. Regarding your exhaust work, it looks slow and messy, but I'm sure you're doing asbestos you can.

Removing asbestos, starting a fire, sounds like a fun day in the office!

For quick access, mount a stainless stud with a thru hole at the end, add a spring and washer, then press down the washer and lock with an 'auto hood locking pin'. you can tie nylon cord to the spring and pin so you don't drop them into the bilge when removing. Takes only seconds to pull free, something I wish I'd had when an unused drain fitting began gushing sea water when under way in my old Pacemaker...

The way you control the weld pool temperature on vertical ups is to add a up stroke to your weave (used to call it Christmas tree pattern). The up stroke gives the weld pool time to solidify letting you lay the next weave over the last. 50 amps is too low, you'll be getting inclusions and lack of fusion.

Rip that wood out to the bare inside hull . Just like you did because you can build it the way You Want. Saves time in the long run. Hull and welding coming along nicely. See you were freaking out in the beginning now your in a groove of things. When done you can have a really nice boat for as long as you want it. And sell it and get your money back if you maintain the boat. Great video 👍

This is a full 'immersion project' for staying afloat. Educational & entertaining, whatever you drink.

if it doesn't go in as a screw it goes in as a nail great video mang

It is obvious new like this boat and want it to reflect the quality you are putting into this project!

I'm glad to see you took the "Asbestos" seriously, though being fair I don't believe that was actually asbestos. I've dealt with a bunch of the stuff and that looked nothing like any I've ever seen. Better safe than sorry though! Beyond that the project is coming along really well.

Your reaction to the dagger comment was hilarious. I would love to see you making it.

I've been asked a few times by a welder to "put that fire out, please", lol. Looks like the cupboard at the other end of the bed will be coming out too; you made a good point about lack of access there.

Hi Stu, When I was building street rods I used a heavy duty sanding disc with a rubber backer on my ancient 7" pipeline welder's style grinder both on metal prep and cleaning up welds. I'm in the US so what's available could be different for you; I have no idea. The discs and backer were from 3M. The rubber backer has curved ventilation grooves in it and threads onto the threaded shaft of the grinder and then there's a flat nut that holds the sanding disc in place. I used 36 and 50 grit sanding discs. I really liked the finish of the flexible sanding discs compared to the hard discs and they were surprisingly durable. For finishing radiused outside corners the flexible disc leaves a nice smooth shape instead of the irregular facets from a hard disc. The gyroscopic effect was also lessened because the flexible setup was much lighter than a new 7" rigid disc.

Thanks for taking us all along on this repair journey. Can’t wait to see you enjoying her on the water.

I feel at home watching you on this project... Good ole shipyard building... Your doing a good job... Keep it up Jeff

You're supposed to put the xxxx in a stubbie holder and call it lemon squash.

LOL "where's my big screwdriver?" Pulls out hammer "here it is"

Great video. I'm looking forward to seeing you fashion that ceremonial dagger made from the keel to fight off Pirates. Oh......were you kidding about that?

I look forward to each week's instalment. Could I suggest that (if practicable), you could cut down on telling us what you are going to do and instead comment as you are doing the work. It would save time and allow us to see more of the actual work.Many thanks for a most interesting commentary of this restoration.

Stu, don't cut the center of the gasket out of the inspection hatch if you do you have a greater chance of the hatch leaking . Just use some adhesive sparingly the hold the gasket to the hatch.

Very glad you took good precautions with the asbestos...that stuff is mean! Definitely keep the fuel hatch gaskets whole since you have plenty for the other projects. A "ceremonial dagger" for keeping the pirates off is great!! :)

Can't believe your patience with the nuts and bolts, me I would have reached for the sawsall as tool No 1!

sod the ceremonial dagger dude mount a 50cal on the blunt end ( see I know all the nautical terms) that will stop the bugga's from boarding you :) great vid again mate its my sunday morning treat when the rest of the house are sleeping

Another great video. If your gasket material is rated for fuel oil then this might not apply. But I believe the reasoning behind cutting the center out of the gasket is this. Degradation of gasket material entering your fuel system. I.E. that’s a lot of excess rubber dangling from the hatch.

Where is my big screw driver. Ah there it is! “BANG BANG” 🤣😂👌🏻👍🏼👍🏼🤷🏼‍♂️ love your vids Stu! I come back every week and you never disappoint. #DangarMarine to 100k subs!!!!

Bed was built to last. In 2019 a master boat builder would use 3 tech screws and 2 ounces of adhesive caulking...so it holds until 15 minutes past the warranty.

Another amazing video keep them up!!!! And I can’t wait until you start to work on the front cabin and make the boat a lot more comfortable

I didn't know there was another term used for a screwdriver. Learn something new everyday.

Can't wait to see the remodelled stateroom Stu... maybe a built in liquor cabinet for the Sailor Jerry :)

Hello, I am a Korean engineer. I will subscribe. And I'll watch the videos too often.

You can try one of those hand-held vibratory saws that have different blade profiles to cut through some of them screws. I used one to remodel a travel trailer because it was a PITA to get to the other side of the screws.

That’s the way to do it!! A good sledgehammer is the best tool with a cold brew! Looking, great Mate! as you say👍

The gasket centre is often not cut out which makes it stronger. I hope this helps. Cheers

Nice gaskets. Old engineers trick I learned a while ago, and use on my boat for making gaskets... two ball peen hammers. Small one with the ball end in the bolt hole, give it a solid whack with a heavier hammer. "Pin" that hole with a bolt thru the cover plate and the gasket, and proceed to do the same to the remainder of your holes. Same for the perimeter of your inspection cover too. With practice, it creates an exact outline of what you're trying to gasket.

One my fave welding info you tubers is Welding tips and Tricks.

Another good video. Thank you Stu.

I got one of the pressurized continuous spray bottles to use instead of the squeeze spray bottle. Pumps up by hand and can hold about 1 gallon. Found in the garden section at the local home improvement store.

I laughed out loud at "screws and glue" because I remember Mr. Beisel, my shop teacher telling us we would attach wood in his class with "nails AND GLUE or screws AND GLUE". He's long gone, but it looks like his work has lived on! I had an idea for attaching cabinets to the hull. Have you thought about welding sturdy hooks or cleats on to the hull? Add a cam above to keep them from coming off in rough weather. In my land-lubberly opinion, I wouldn't want to depend on wing nuts cooperating in an emergency. Great vid, love seeing your progress! Keep faith in what you know, since you have more experience than many of us (myself included).

Another joyous morning in the Emerald Isle, thanks for the infomative entertainment Stu. Never realised XXXX was classed as beer?? Always thought it was an alternative therapy.

Great work! I love watching this build. You should try to turn your heat up 75 or so amps for your welds , better tie ins . You are running too cold so not as great of a tie in to the existing steel. Cold lap. When burning hotter you have to move faster. Turn the heat up some and will see a better tie in and less grinding unless u move too slow. Colder you run the less penetration you have and undercut .Not cutting you u up just trying to help out. Its a learning process. Please keep these videos going because they are amazing

Also, best rods for patching are GP's, they have a lower tensile strength but are much easier to strike and run a smooth weld, use low hydrogen (high tensile rods) for structural welds. From memory, GP's have a 4 number code on the rod which begins with 40, low hydrogen rods begin with 70. The other 2 numbers of the 4 indicate their intended weld position (downhand, vertical up, horizontal), if you pick the right rod for the weld at hand it's much easier.

Four X makes a great fire extinguisher

Enjoy the video can't wait to see it completed.

Stu - you need a "rim shot" sound effect after you tell a joke ! It take us "foreigners" about 5 to 10 seconds before it sinks in !! BTW, we can only get "Dous Equis" Mexican beer here !

Had never heard the term "lump hammer" but I have several and they are very effective! Admire your determination and am sure you will succeed!

Man, get yourself some LH 6420 5/16" Jet Rod ! You can fill those gaps in one or two passes ! And you don't even have to chip that stuff. The slag just pops right off when it cools.

Maybe design a new panel cover held on by strong magnets ? Steel boat .. magnets ... easy removal with no rattles ? Love watching your videos from here in Florida ! 👍👍👍😎 I was a union pipe fitter for years and there is no real reason to remove the middle of the gasket unless fluid is going through the center .

Re the long vertical welds at the beginning, carve a shallowish trench with the angle grinder to increase the surface area and fill the trench by stopping the rod and pushing in until the puddle fills the trench to the edges (with a slight crown) then move and repeat. When you get good at it you can feel the mushiness at the bottom of the puddle through the arc handle. You get good penetration, a nice rounded weld and excellent strength, minimal grinding and sometimes no pits at all (which can be hard on rust repair I admit). Good welding is about good prep, a bit of know-how and quite a bit of skill born of experience, which you're getting. I would highly recommend going to night school and doing a welding course. The things they get you to do there are hard, not easy. This of course brings your skill level right up. There is also quite a bit of theory which is essential in my view. The welding/theory ratio at these classes is something like 30-70 in favour of the welding so you don't just become a theory wanker with no skill. Truly, your skill will dramatically improve especially since you've done a lot of rust repair already. Beginners typically don't do very well in these courses, but I think you would gain enormously. The things they get you to do are like 3 pass arc welds on two pieces of 12"-15" long 10-12mm flat bar which you have to join (lengthwise) where the welds runs lengthwise, have to overlap correctly. It teaches you how to prep the angles of the steel to be joined, the width at the bottom (so you don't blow a hole through on the 1st pass), the shape, flux inclusions and a strength test, where they break your 3 pass job in a press and look for flux inclusions. If you fail you have to do it all again - and it takes at least an hour from start to finish working very fast. Each run in the pass is done on 2x longish pieces of flat bar where it is intentionally impossible to do each run with 1x rod. This means you have to butt join the welds correctly on the welding run and those buts cannot be in the same place - they have to be in a brick like offset. It typically requires 6x rods to do the 3 passes. It also teaches you how to cast off so the ends don't have concave finishes. The whole thing is difficult to get right and the failure after failure really pisses you off. Of course you begin to challenge yourself to get it right and afterwoods think "I don't want to ever do that again" after you've failed 4 or more times. When you get to that point you're on your way.

Hold the new unit in place with earth magnets. We don’t use heat wrap anymore on the exhaust. It actually causes it to rust. The new units are now ceramic coated to trap all the heat.

i cant wait to see this back in the water,!

Given all the metal you have put back into the fabric of the boat, I suggest you name her MARIWELD.

Another great vid Stu. You've been busy and the job's coming along very nicely. Sweat equity rising.

You've got lots done Stu! Looking good and coming along nicely brother. Cheers

May be a stupid idea.. forgive me :) what about using some strong magnets to secure the cubbies, then you can just pull it out with zero tools .. dony know if the magnet affects anything though .. awesome job man. This boat will last you forever and i cant wait to see this thing on the water.. keep on keeping on !!!

Great videos, for your engine bay you mentionned not having enough room for the wand, just remove the pipe from it and attach the wet blaster direct to the handle. Hope this might help you out.

I am plus/minus on the asbestos removal. Asbestos is only harmful when it becomes airborne; you might have made things worse instead of better with asbestos dust clinging everywhere. Encapsulating it is what they tell me to do around the house.

When you head up to bundy to get the sandblasting and painting done on your way back down to Sydney should do a few stop offs and chanel meetups

It is frequent on larger ships to find hatches with one piece rubber gaskets. There is no need to cut out the middle. On fuel tanks, the rubber exposed to the fuel will deform and sag after a time.

Good job. I agree. No need to cut out the gasket middle. Glue it down! Enjoy each video!

Fuel tank covers deffo won't leak if you do it as you have described. That's what we do to all our tanks at work. U won't need the hylomar as long as your gasket is a good fit🤙

Hey there stu.. I see your positional welding is improving and you’re learning to monitor your amperage depending on the position and existing plate temperature from the previous welds. Good stuff, well done mate. The reason your slag is coming off easily is because your electrode travel speed and parent metal temperature are at the right settings and also you are using general purpose electrodes. Not because they are 3.2mm. General purpose electrodes are a basic all rounder electrode for use in every position with the flux coating being the main factor for making them user friendly for beginners or amateurs. The rods you’re probably using are coded either E4812, E6012, E4813, E6013. Depending on the original plate used for the hull, I would have used either a quality brand low hydrogen electrode probably WIA or BOC, CIGWELD E4816, E6016 for most of Hull work in most positions. They’re a bit harder to start and the slag is dark brown glassy like slag and harder to chip off, but has better penetration qualities. I would keep using some gp’s if found a decent hole to plug , then grind most that out to use a 4816 over the top to patch it completely and then go back over the other side and grind out the penetration of the patch and use 4816 to cover that over. If you have any long down hand position welds to make , ie- not overhead or vertical , try some iron powder electrodes E7024. They will cover any shit weld and won’t be lumpy and very forgiving making you look like a star. Just a little hint with vertical up, start the weld fast at one side, hold the rod there by counting 123 to yourself, then quickly move the rod across slightly diagonal up about 3-4mm to where you want your weld pool, hold again by counting 123, then move back across 3-4mm to just on top of where you first started and follow that same sequence until the end of the weld. That will leave you with better flatter contour and won’t have the appearance of it looking like both sides are pouring back into the middle leaving a big peak to grind off later. Better to pay the extra money for quality name electrodes, the cheap lesser known brands are garbage, they cause all sorts of problems for the amateur and its hard to pinpoint the real problem when using them. You’ll notice the difference immediately and chipping the slag. But love what you’re doing there mate, really good stuff.

ive been waiting for this video all week

Got the new name for the boat: Dangar Dagger!😁👍

Ooooh a knife is going to be made full of surprises here 👌🏼👍🏻

Another great video really enjoy the channel

Hi Stu, if only you'd turned the tank-hatch 90 degrees. You'd have got two from that section. saves on wastage. I used to work for Dunlop Chemline in the 70's lining tanks with rubber. That's my only criticism though. Another enjoyable Saturday A.M.. Good work mate.

Stu have to admit there is nothing like a bit of precision carpentry on your end.

Loving the progression. Thumbs up from across the pond 👍👍

Maaaaaaannn u got lucky brother u dint torch the whole shebang!! Thumbs up for the dengar dagger

Welder Skelter! He's a fia stata! That's one way to get to know the boat intimately; and shorten rehab tasks.

So happy to see so much stick welding! It’s a really fun, economical(? - well, no gas), and if you’re conscientious with the slag, it works great. Plus, you can blast right through paint and fouling if necessary. Thumbs up, Stu. :)

Love the Aussie humour. Brilliant!

Start dancin in the shop when I hear that "Dangar Marine" is on, Love that start music, it's time to get into it...... OOOEEE

Such an awesome project! I am working again but trying to keep up, doing an excellent job and I am learning all the time!

Sometimes things happen for a reason. Everyone screws up, it's learning to cover your screw ups that makes you a professional.

Great project for your channel, I enjoy your sensibility.

Don't bother with cutting out the centers, just leave em in, helps protect the inside of the hatch from corrosion if you're dealing with water on the other side of the hatch, and less chance for leaks.

"Pad welding" is often called hardbanding or hardfacing here. You see it a lot on excavator buckets. Build up an area so lots of abrasion can wear it down again. Lather, rinse, repeat

Use a tire inner tube, and make a custom gasket for any inspection ports.

Try doing some downhill welds if the rods are 7018 turn up your heat and use a larger gap and let the flux run off fill in the undercut.

Wow Stu, you were absolutely right about a very poorly designed fitout. That was a accident waiting to happen for sure. Keep up the great work buddy its getting there one step at a time.

Whenever I come across one of those dodgy nuts & bolts I found the quickest and most satisfying way to unscrew them is with a sharp cold chisel and 4lb persuader.

Looking good Stu. You’ll be putting paint on her before you know it!

1200+ likes and 0 thumbs down... you're doing something right!!!