Hummer H2 Air Suspension system REPAIRED. cost $50 

Probably did. Daily rural occurrence

Wiring diagrams are available. I used alldatadiy.com then put in my Hummer information. Then I went to Retailmenot.com and put in alldatadiy to get a discount code

Dragonfly jones I did not hear it leaking. Sounds like you have a small leak somewhere as well. Spray a soapy solution around your connections to check for a leak. Then sign up for Alldatadiy and purchase for the Hummer. Go under suspension and you will find valuable information there

9 and 11 ohms

Thank you. I will try this.

Yes it still works. Think I explain the direction you have to put them. I haven’t had any issues with mine since posting. I’m thinking the system has a separate exhaust to release air out the system. That’s why one way valves work. Hydraulics and Air are different. When lowering, you don’t retain the air you’ve already used. It’s vented to atmosphere. Versus hydraulic which would be retained

Triple H The hoses should be 6mm. There are a couple of large threaded pieces. One is a coupling that has the pressure switch screwed in one side and blocked off on the other side. Then there is a hose coming out of it that goes to another distribution block. I think this coupling came from Home Depot. I think it was 3/4 coupling. I just took the pressure switch in and got the coupling and bolt to close it off with at the same time. The other large threaded piece has multiple inputs/outputs. As described right above, one hose goes to pressure switch. 2 other hoses go to each solenoid for air to the bags. Then the last hose goes to the drier/tank. This particular block I cut, drilled, and tapped myself from an aluminum block. You can do the same thing without that block by using just Y or T fittings to connect those particular lines together. The purpose of that created block is to get the air from the drier/tank to each bag and allow the pressure switch to read how much air is still in in the tank so that it knows when to turn the compressor on and off. The sensors can be tested for an output. I haven’t had any issues with them being unlevel, so I didn’t test them. What you can do is go to Alldatadiy and purchase the yearly subscription for the Hummer. That is where I got wire diagrams for these suspension components. Before you purchase the subscription, go to retailmenot and then type in alldatadiy. This will give you a discount code you can use on alldatadiy

Thanks for your help. Best h2 video on air ride. I am at the Schrader valve stage. Haven’t leaked down at all for three or four days now. Rounding up parts to eliminate that solenoid system. Thanks again.

Triple H just noticed that I put the coupling part number in the description when I initially posted the video

Didn’t even notice your comment. Sorry. Saw you posted a video on the issue of removing the hose. I do it everyday at work so I didn’t even think about showing how to remove it, I just did it.

@@CustomKeem No worries, your video was good to get me started. SUT life :)

Triple H 5/16 is the English equivalent of metric 8mm. Quickest way to clear code would be to disconnect the battery. Make sure all the doors are closed. Pump won’t activate with any open.

At 6:40. I show my temporary fix. Do that to each bag separately. Cause as you can see I have a gauge, air intake from the compressor and air outlet to the bag. This will tell you if your bag is leaking. It shouldn’t bounce. If every now and again it won’t air up, either it’s tried to air up too many times and it’s faulted out and you should have a fault message on the dash or your leak is major and the amount of air it’s attempting to store is less than the amount of air that’s leaking out.

John Batista at 0:55 I point out the air suspension sensors. Air Suspension Sensors: The rear air suspension sensors are potentiometers which detect height changes at the rear of the vehicle. The sensors relay the height changes to the air suspension module. The sensors are mounted to the frame at the rear wheel area on the left and right sides. The activation arm is attached to the upper control arms of the rear suspension. Air Suspension Pressure Sensor: The air suspension system uses the air pressure sensor to monitor system pressure. The air suspension module uses that signal to determine if there is a leak in the system and to maintain a minimum air pressure in the system.

John Batista Note if replacing compressors: Compressor Assemblies The air suspension system consist of 2 compressor assemblies. Both compressors run simultaneously and are controlled by one relay. One compressor has the exhaust valve mounted on its cylinder head. Each compressor has its own thermal limit switch. The compressors are a positive displacement air pump, powered by a 12-volt DC permanent magnet motor. A thermal limit switch protects each compressor. The thermal limit switch is normally closed and provides a ground signal to the air suspension module. If there is an overtemperature condition the thermal limit switch will open and signals the air suspension module to deactivate the compressor relay. The compressors will stop running and a DTC will set. Intake air for the compressors is drawn through an intake filter and line that is attached to the fuel filler pipe in the left rear wheel area. The air compressor assemblies are mounted to a bracket that is located under the rear center of the vehicle. The compressor air dryer is mounted next to the air compressors. It contains a moisture absorbing chemical that drys the compressed air before it is delivered to the rear air springs. Moisture is removed from the dryer and returned to the atmosphere when air is exhausted from the air springs during vehicle lowering.

I just do my own repairs, especially since these items are discontinued. There’s a vendor that makes the complete system in the rack for $1700. But I wasn’t planning on spending that. Figured others may run into similar situations therefore I’d try to help with a video. Seems of your compressors would continuously run. Should fault out and disable the air system. I just recently went back in and replaced my compressor with a train horn type compressor. The one I replaced had the exhaust solenoid attached to it so when removing it, I had to add a new solenoid in its place since the new aftermarket compressor would not have one.

norm laderoute I don’t remember checking the output for + and -. With the solenoid just being activated by a coil, it shouldn’t matter. After checking the product information of the solenoid, it doesn’t say it has a diode. So as long as you keep the 2 wires from each old solenoid going to the new solenoid, you should be ok.

Since it’s electronically controlled, put solenoid somewhere between the valve body and air shock. Run the control wires to the cab. You’d have to determine whether you want normally open or normally closed solenoids. Doing that is going to put a “service suspension” on the dash. You can bypass that service fault with a device from Arnott

@@CustomKeem It had crossed my mind to cut into the power wire going to the compressor and to run wires to the dash adding a switch to cut power to the compressor once I put the air bags at their highest point. Then when I needed them to come down I could just hit the switch on the dash to allow power back to the compressor so the bags would go down. But did not know if the bags would stay up with power to the compressor cut or if the was some other valve control that would deflate the bags at 40 mph even if the compressor was disabled after the bags were inflated.

There is a separate exhaust valve for deflating.

Just make sure you get normally closed solenoids

Triple H The black hose coming off the air drier/tank is the factory hose. Is the hose in my video that comes off the side and does not go the same direction as the blue hoses. It goes to the silver distribution block. Since the distribution part is not factory that means I installed that fitting. So basically old hose goes to new fitting. The fitting though should be 8mm. So if you don’t have the factory hose, a 8mm hose should work. I can tell it’s a factory hose because it’s more rigid than the new hoses I installed and it also has the bulge/wrinkle close to where you plug it in on both ends of the hose. You can see that the other hoses I used do not have that bulge because I cut them to size. Subscribe if it helps any, it helps me. Thanks

Watch the whole video. Think you may see what you’re looking for. If not, be more specific and I’ll try to explain

Could be a lot of stuff. Turn on the onboard inflator in the back of the truck. Should activate compressor. Besides that options are but not limited to: bad compressor, pressure switch, 12v power/ground, 60amp fuse, air suspension relay under hood.

there is up to a minute and half delay sometimes after shutting door. make sure dashboard dome light switch is depressed turning off lights. might help