Thanks - I saw people talking about remotes (my house didn't come up a fan remote) and limiters. I just took mine apart and found this thing and knew to just remove it. When I switched to LED lights, they'd come on bright, then dim to almost off. I knew it was something intervening. It's a quick fix too! Thanks!
My wattage limiter looked a bit different, but fix was simple, cut the black, red, and white wires at the limiter, strip the red and black and connect them with a wire nut, and put a wire nut on the no longer needed white common. On my fan the black wire is the hot going into the limiter, and the red is the hot output, which goes to the pull switch. Each wire was clearly labeled by Hunter, so it wasn’t hard to figure out the simple circuit. This sure beats $200 for a new fan, and the hassle of an install. I have three Hunter fans of similar design and vintage, so if and when the next one fails the fix will be the same, just cut out the limiter and connect the hot-in and hot-out. Simple. Thanks for the video, I viewed about a half dozen that all basically recommended the same fix.
Man, thank you for posting this! Had two Hunter fans that one would always turn the light back off when power was lost or by flipping the switch off and back on. Not great for a baby room and power blips. The other room the light pull switch would never turn off the light, to use the fan the light also had to be on... Cut this component out and now both fixtures work as they are intended. I did however have to replace the light pull switch on both as the originals seemed to be momentary switches and do not work without this part.
Mine was different company- looked entirely different but same issue. Never would have known to look for this if you had not posted. Sending you a sincere Thank You!
Thank you so much! I couldn’t figure out why the socket had power but the bulb wasn’t lighting. With your information, I was able to bypass the regulator, problem solved. The customer service person at Hunter Fan’s assistance hotline told me they no longer have the lighting assembly available for my fan and was unable or unwilling to give me any other solution. I’m so glad I checked online. Thanks again!
Lifesaver video! I wish I had searched and found this before paying an electrician to come out and do nothing but tell us to buy a new light kit. Didn’t work. After a day of work ourselves, I finally searched and found this video. It worked perfect! Bless you for helping people. We wasted about $90 today before I found this video that could have helped for free.
My limiter looks a little different but had the same wiring. Reading through the comments and other videos I’ve watched helped me figure out what to do because I was a little lost. I had a red, white, and black wire going to my limiter. I cut them, then removed the limiter. Afterwards, I capped the white wire. I then connected the red wire to the black wire. The light came on after that.
Its a relay that monitors current and when it draws too much it opens. It measures the difference between main , load, and the neutral. I cut the white neutral to it. I didnt have a wire nut. 32 years as an electrician and they didnt use ti have these. I was tired of goin blind. I used to cut the whole thing out and make it hot.
Had a similar problem (light pulses on very quickly then stays off) with a Hampton Bay (Home Depot, 2011) ceiling fan. Voltage to light was only from 2-20 watts. Looked everywhere for this infamous regulator, does not have one (only one capacitor for fan start). Ended up just being a broken wall light switch, replaced and fine now. FYI
I showed my dad, who is an electrical engineer, this video and he was able to fix my light in no time👍🏾. So it was helpful because he was kind of stumped without it. For someone like me who has no electrical background, I would have had to pay an electrician unfortunately; even with this video 🤷🏾♀️
Took a lot of stress and 2 different videos, but I was able to do it. Thank you! Now if another fan is where the blades don't spin but the lights work, is it the capacitor?
Good video. Note however that other fans have different designs. On some, the current limiter is a much smaller in-line device. On my fan, the similar-looking box turned out to be the multi-speed fan controller, and my older fan did not have a current limiter like Rando's did. In my case, it turned out to be the pull-cord switch for the fan lights that had failed with a loud pop. A $5.00 replacement switch from Home Depot put the lights back into service.
I really want to get it of this limiter but the design of my hunter ceiling fan wiring is slightly different . Is there a way for me to send you pictures for you to tell me which wires I have to link together ? Thanks!
Thanks. Pretty sure that’s what caused my parent’s light issue. Dad had screwed in a light bulb that was apparently detached from its base and when he turned it on, of course it surged and popped. They still use incandescent bulbs so I recommended that he replace the resistor. Not sure what brand fan theirs is, but at least this gives him the proper name of the part to retrieve rather than buying the wrong thing again, wasting another couple hours and causing more marital strife.
Ya gotta admit i can see how you confused a whole lot of people by not explaining what you have to do with the red wire. You should edit your video. Good luke
I put wrong bulbs in my ceiling fan, turned it on and it sparked. After putting the old light bulbs back in, lights not working. Fan works fine though. Could this be why? Maybe I shorted something?
I just removed this and connected red and black and left the white cap off but light didn’t work, not sure if I connects black and white and cap off red?
No! The black wire is the hot-in, the red is the hot-out. White is the common, not needed once you connect the black+red. If that didn’t work check the pull switch.
Those were installed on newer fans by limited the bulb wattage output to the max rating or even lower to save energy. They were required by law as part of the laws when they banned incandescent bulbs. They are known to burn out, especially if you go ahead and put larger bulbs in them. I burned one out by using 60 watts bulbs, my friend burned one out too. I take them out now before even installing them as they are trouble later on. I helped a friend of mine install a ceiling fan and it didn't come with one, presumably because they came with LED bulbs. Just another example of the government thinking they know what is best for us and complicating our lives in the process.
My aren't working I have Hunter fan but the fan works and I live in Texas mine doest have government deal in but It does have relay I replaced the light fan switch and that wasn't the problem
Excellent video! My problem: the capacitor has 3 wires - 1 red, 1 blue & 2 white. Not sure how to rewire this unit - ugh! I’d appreciate any tips tp get this puppy back up and have the lights working again !!!
On my fan I have 2 grey wires going into the black box and a purple, brown and red. Any ideas? Looks like I can connect the 2 grey and red goes to black but not sure about purple and brown. Thanks
Sorry Damien I don't know. Googling it says it could be either the three speeds for your fan or a variable speed adjustment or a light dimmer. Good luck.
Probably the same issue, my lights worked intermittently, then would only stay on for a second or two before going out. Removing the limiter fixed the problem.
Just had the lights on my Hunter Fan flash out. First, thought I had blown a fuse as having all three lights go out would be very remote. Taking my multimeter, I found this very small what appears to be a wattage limiter. Mines tiny. I did a continuity test and found the circuit is open. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I assume it's this very tiny component.
@@randovideos8423 thank you bud, one more question, if I happen to leave the lights on for an extended period of time. They are incandescent, not leds, will anything happen then? Or they will simply turn off. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR RESPONSE.
I just removed the part and didn't replace it. Since I use LED lights a wattage regulator isn't necessary (in my opinion) since they don't use as many watts. Good luck!
Police departments keep training them to be happy trigger bullies. Thank God they are now required to wear body cameras to prove the kind of thugs they are.
Great call Manny! Always make sure the breaker to wherever you are working is shut off. Always ALWAYS check for any voltage on any wire or circuit you are touching in any way, even tricky conductors like old pliers
@@randovideos8423 I think I have found it in my fan, but it only has two wires. Red and white. Can I just bypass? It does not look the same as yours, but I think it serves the same purpose. It says SH-CAP 250V 50/60Hz Maybe this link to a picture of it will work? drive.google.com/file/d/1GaTFDthXXLKFZB0pgn2PEeoRAkEidczg/view?usp=drivesdk
@@dfelmoca no, I have not had the time to sit with it and figure it out. Eventually someone will say I am right and I can just make the modifications. Or I will find the time to figure it out myself.
Clip the wires at the limiter, strip and connect the red and black together with a wire nut, and put a wire nut on the unstripped white wire, which is not needed. This works for a limiter with three wires: black, which is hot-in, red, which is hot-out, and white, which is common.
Well open it up and see if there is a small black box. It should have two wires going into it and then those wires go to the lights. If so, I would guess yes. Be sure to turn off the power at the circuit breaker first! They sell current detectors for $10 at home depot that will ensure you have no current going to the circuit. And if you cut the wires in the middle you can reconnect with wire nuts if that doesn't solve your problem. Good luck!
Well shoot. I tried this and blew out the electronics of the whole thing. Must've fouled something up. Please double check yourselves, everyone, so you don't make the same mistake I made.
Ceiling fan giving you an issue, no problem. Give us a call! Electrical Expert Nashville,TN and surrounding areas. Here to satisfy your Electricial needs! #ERElectric615 Dm,text or call us today at 615-326-5462 to schedule an appointment! #alwaysworking #buylocal #nashville #anothersatisfiedcustomer
this video told absolutely NOTHING. And would you guys learn to either get someone to hold the camera or actually take the thing down and show what you are doing. I do wiring and you have ME confused.
There's no helping you If you "do wiring" and can't follow this. I showed you the part you need to remove and talked through reconnecting the wires. There were no videos on youtube about this problem at the time so it was an after the fact thought that has helped people. Do us all a favor and keep your negativity to yourself, in life in general too.
Looks great, and with a brighter bulb installed that’s all the light you need. ru-vid.comUgkxWF88GpljEn-0o34vtLFazEQ5h5Q33SjU As far as ease of installation- this was my first ceiling fan and it took about 3 hours because I had no idea what I was doing and also it’s helpful to have a second set of hands and a magnetic drill bit. Works great.
Please watch my video if you have a moment and tell me what I need to do to get the light working I've had it like this brand new since 2008. The fan works and the light doesn't thanks
It's not much help to say that removing this regulator solved my issue? huhh......... Like I said earlier... Also have I used all cap words in my responses? Just because I called you out doesn't make me touchy.
Okay, so to follow up, I don't have a discrete power limiter in my Hunter fan. Apparently, they've moved on to integrating that limiter directly into their wireless fan and light controller combo module. Now I have to replace that entire module just for the lights, even if the fan still works fine. So dumb.
No, bypassing the wattage limiter will not start cause a short or a fire. All it does is check the total wattage of the bulbs being used. Keep that total under the recommended wattage for each socket and you’ll never have an issue. Also, if you switch to LED bulbs you’ll never draw more than a fraction of the 180 watt limit.
