Join us as we address the commonly asked questions relating to shooting and hunting with light poundage recurves and longbows with the right arrow set up! Visit us on Facebook or our website www.instinctiveaddictionarcheryllc.com
I’m not sure how to add pictures, but if I could I would share countless pictures of my wife’s kills. From small hogs, big hogs, whitetail, and sheep. All them killed with recurves and longbows from 36-45#. The 45# was a little stout for her so not many kills with that bow, so the majority of her kills coming from bows that are 36-40#. And she made me a believer that a sharp broadhead and proper arrow placement is all you need. Just weighed one of her arrows and it’s total arrow weight is 361 grains. Just saying it for anyone not confident in low poundage, it will for sure work. And don’t over think the arrow too much either make sure it flys good and broadheads are sharp.
I use Fleetwood 500s with 125 gr Montec G3s making a 380 gr. Arrow off of my long bow at 39# at my draw length that is 29.5". Ive had passthroughs with clean quick kills on whitetail at 20 yds. You're so right. It's all about placement and a good sharp broadhead and knowing your distant limits.
I'm in my 70's and finding that 45# is the max I can consistently maintain. This information is so valuable in helping me build arrows that are effective. My advice to others - don't strain to get an extra 5#, and injure yourself so that you may not be able shoot again. Thanks so much for your helpful videos.
Thx for the video, what most RU-vidrs forget to mention is their drawlenght. I draw 31,5" so a 30# bow becomes almost 40#, a 35# becomes around 45# and so on. Key is as you say a correct arrow, sharp broadhead and perfect placement of your shot. Poundage is also a bit of a macho item for a lot of men, a good archer with a light bow wil always outshoot a bad archer with a heavy bow. Shooting lighter is more fun, you last longer and have less injury and also allows perfect aiming without effort or trembling. Happy trails and shoot straight! Kind regards from Belgium.
I'm almost 81 yrs old in march, in 1969 in calif I shot a black bear with a #36lb Groves Prestige bow with a Fred Bear Green arrow head with razor inserts and killed 12 blacktail Bucks with the same set up, my arrows where aluminum thats when they were first available to me as I was a target shooter with the same set up with target heads. I now shoot heavy 575 grain arrows now but at the time we didn't know any better, I was the only one to do so in 1969 (you can look it up) the state gave a dinner and small trophy and metal for me, Fred Bear and Howard Hill were my heros, I still have bows made by both men. I still have cedar arrows new(old) in the box's of Freds arrows I love his broad heads with the razor inserts, I know there is a lot of great broadheads out there, but my favorites are the ones that are shapened on one side top and bottom, I find they split bones well, shot placement is always key, I'm shooting a #44lb Black Widow that's my hunting bow now Jim Las Vegas NV
Thanks for the common sense approach on this video. 👍🏼 I’ve literally watched hours of videos trying to find out what you explained in less than 13 minutes. Good job 👍🏼
The average weight of American Indian Bows was #35 lb. my vintage Browning Mohawk’ -At 30# with my 31” draw flings arrows amazingly fast! It’s just a amazing light efficient bow. I have never hunted Deer with it but no doubt it would get the job done. God Bless🇺🇸 Great Video
I've shot 60- 65 pound recurves and long bows my entire adult life, I'm 65. A couple of years ago I realized I couldn't get through more than a few shots before I could no longer. Started that years winter 3d league with my very first hunting bow. A 48# Browning. It was a pure joy to shoot. I thought what in the world am I doing screwing around with 65 pounds ? Went home and ordered new limbs for that 65# bow.
Just be glad your not my neighbor! If I was I’d be at your house everyday shooting with you & asking a million questions. Thanks for all the info you give out. Since listening to your advice on shooting my accuracy has improved 100%. And a brother in Christ… You can’t beat that!!!
This is REALLY good advice, and it's very timely. I'm one of those older bowhunters who now has to limit myself to a 45-lb. recurve because of worsening lumbar-spine issues. I'm about to do some bare-shaft tuning to make sure that my arrow/broadhead setup is the correct one for me and for my bow. Best of luck this season, and many thanks.
One of my biggest mentors back in the 70's ,shot a 40#@28" recurve ..He was in his elder years at the time and maybe drew 26"..He killed more deer and small game than anyone else i knew..He filled his freezer as well as that of 2 other families every year..It wasnt the poundage that was the important part,it was a well tuned arrow and the patients and maturity to know when to take the shot and when to pass..I never heard of him losing an animal ever..
Huh interesting. I just got a 72lbs longbow for a song. I can barely shoot the thing (still got 2nd at a local competition). I'm gona have to tiller the thing down
I shot many nice buck with Easton XX75 2117 aluminum arrows using Bear Razorheads out of my 52# Bear Kodiak Takedown recurve bow all with complete pass thru! Great video Jeff!
Yes sir! I built a set last year with 100 grain brass inserts and 175 grain heads they were just over 700 grains with a lumenok and hit like a freight train!
This video should be compulsory viewing for all archers new to hunting with traditional bows. Many come from compounds thinking speed kills and its the bow that kills. In his honest, well presented, personable way, the author (sorry mate, i cant find your name) instructs on the importance of how the arrow is exponentially more important than speed in trad bowhunting.. Best bow guy on the net. Hes a fair dinkum, you beaut, ridgy didge, dinky di, legend of all things trad! ...Ha! Merry xmas mate, from Oz.
I'm so sad. I've been saving and saving for one of your bows. They are so beautiful and I love your message. Ive been saving for over a year i have very little extra income or I'd have already bought one. But God had other plans for you and I can live with that. Maybe one day I'll come across one of your bows and I can leave it to my son.
Oh wow! Thanks buddy. The Lord broke the mold with you. Keep up the videos they mean a lot more than you know they have gotten me to open my bible up again and if not for your tips I wouldn't be ready for deer season this September. All glory to God 🙏
This guys info is good. Shoot as much bow weight as you can handle. And most important thing in the world. A sharp Brodhead i mean razor!!!razor sharp!!
I was going to ask about aluminum arrows just before you mentioned them lol. Shooting 40-45 lbs and shooting easten gamegetters 2016s with 125 gr stingers
Great video, thanks! I shoot a St Joe River 62" Recurve 41# @28" with a 29" Easton Legacy 500 with a 300grain broadhead so around a 552 grain arrow with insert and they fly like darts and hit very hard. Wish I would have found your video earlier, took lots of arrow/field points and broadheads to discover what shot the best. Your spot on!!
I’ve always shot and hunted with 53-57# bows . I’ve found that has been the best speed the weight efficiency. My strength, accuracy, and bow’s performance. 54-58 pound range for trad equipment is probably the best performance ratio . That being said I have shoulder injuries and am bone on bone in both shoulders. I’m dropping down to the sub 40# bow for a while this year. I want to get up to the most bow I can shoot . I’m thinking maybe 45-50 . I have a 53-55 longbow other than that my light recurves at 37-38 and 41-43 ish.
I'm shooting a 1970 grizzly #45 about 42lbs at my draw. I'm shooting Easton 400 traditional 6.5mm with 350 grains up front, 200 grain cutthroats and 150 inserts. Close to 700 grains. Fly like darts passed on a few deer this year at about 35-40 yards. I know when a buck comes into about 25 yards that arrow is going through it no matter what it hits. My point on distance is only about 30 yards.
I have to use a bought new 54 inch length recurve, 45 pound bow for left eye dominate as somebody almost 33 years old, will be Dec 20 but anyhow I am using a Bow that light due to only being 5 foot 2 inch/62 inches or 157 cm as well as 107--110 pounds and I draw the bow to about 34--35 pounds on average due in some part to my short arm length for my size. I use 1916 Aluminum Arrow on the bow to make sure I am using as light of an arrow I can use, probably could use 1816 and it would work better but they work fine. I am then just use hunting broadheads that are same weight 100 grains as my field tips for the bow just to make things easy for me and the fact that 100 grain broadheads are easier to find then even 120-125 grain broadheads that due to compound shooters are the most used size broadhead and often field tips if using that broadhead weight. I have to get better at the archery before I will ever think about hunting but I know the bow is going to work. Now check laws in your state for Deer/Turkey/if wanting to shoot and they are there, Antelope, most now the higher minimum is 40 for states but One of them uses 45 pounds, Alaska and this is due to the state not having a Deer and Turkey minimum but an all large game not just big game. Living in South Dakota I know I would need to get a bigger bow if hunting the state I live in for Elk but they are hard to find outside the Black Hills so no time will I need to get a 55--60 pound draw to have bow pull 40 pounds, just need the bow to pull 30 pounds minimum draw for South Dakota though I would not with standard Recurve go lower then 35 pounds on draw, Super Recurve bows I might go with 30 pounds in draw if the bow shoots around 250 FPS or higher.
Learned lots here. Thank you. Well done. I really like how you present. Looks like you have 4" feathers on your arrows. Any general thoughts about length of feathers for lighter set ups as well as on the importance of shorter broadheads?
Thanks I actually run three fletch with 4” and I believe the most important thing with lighter bows is a really sharp broadhead especially a two blade like magnus or grizzlys 👍🏻
Bare shaft tuning & getting excellent flight allow a 4" fletch. I make arrows with a 4 " feathers with a 2% offset. Since they r going onto a 4mm shaft the 4" length is fine as long as my bare shaft tuning was precise.
I have both 40 and 50 lb limbs and was planning to use the 50 for hunting but I shoot the 40 so much better I think I'm going with that. We will see how things develop. Yes, I'm going with heavy aluminum arrows either way and Bear Razorheads my father game me. Playing around with brass inserts and arrow length now to see what they like.
Thanks for the information. would like to be able to hunt smaller game and fowl as a harvest option. Quik instective shots on moving targets with a 35 - 40 lb bow. I like the spiritual part of your content as well.
Great advice, thank you! I shoot 42 Pounds on a 30 ( + a little bit) inch draw. I was always wondering if i should keep the 500 axis or if i could get away with 600.
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 I'm gonna find out tomorrow. I was gonna hunt on wheeler wildlife refuge tomorrow but I might check out the TVA land by my house. Good luck the rest of the season! Love the channel!
@@tylercarder581 TVA wheeler doesn’t come in till January completely different deer for sure we hunt both and any TVA is on fire as of yesterday everybody’s seeing bucks chasing
At 5'4", I'm a short dude even here in Portugal, Europe. I draw 43lbs at 25.5" and my main issue is arrow drop, I'm point on at 20yards and have a 2.5' drop from 20 to 25yards on 500gr arrows. The struggle is real!
Yeah I’m sure it is lol but I’ll tell you that it’s sort of a trade off for hunting, you’re set up good but you can always lighten up a bit for target and 3D, also you can shoot a light grain per inch arrow with good FOC like 250 grains up front and have around a 450 grain arrow that’ll still penetrate awesome but fly flatter 👍🏻
when you mentioned state law min. poundage, if the shooter has draw length of 25, does the min. go up because now that 40lb pound bow is shooting much less.
jeff you mentioned poundage on bows for hunting and matching the right arrow. how about the hunters who have short draw length say under 25”. what do they?
I cought a demonstration awhile ago on a stone age channel were a guy almost put a flint tipped arrow threw a fresh deer carcass with a 35 pound bow. A modern bow and broad head set up should have no problems at all
CA doesn’t use a minimum weight to determine if a bow/arrow combo is legal. Instead it requires a bow to cast an arrow with a legal broadhead 120 yards horizontal distance. Legal meaning that it will not pass through a hole 7/8 inches in diameter. Expandable measured when open. It does not take a heavy bow to do that. I believe a 35 pound bow would probably pass that test.
Poundage you pull isn’t the issue, perfect arrow flight is, if you are hunting and your arrows fly perfect, poundage isn’t necessary, a #70 bow, with fishtailing arrows will have less penetration then a lower poundage bow with perfect arrow flight. Next to arrow flight is form, correct and consistent form, you will maintain better form with lighter poundage, heavy weight bows for hunting is a BIG MYTH, light arrows is also not necessary, and somewhat detrimental, heavy arrows are way more forgiving, light arrows magnify poor form. Also get your balancing point of your arrows right. Back when I started archery, #50 was a heavy weight, #45 was the normal, I shot a #70 takedown recurve for many years, loved it, shoot good with it. When I made my own longbows, #55-60 was my target weight, and my body thanked me for it. It Traditional Bows are what want to shoot, start out much lighter then you think, get your form down and practice, practice, practice, if only in the garage at 5’, I can’t stress enough about perfect practice, as much as possible to keep your form and accuracy!
"Poundage you pull isn’t the issue, perfect arrow flight is, if you are hunting and your arrows fly perfect, poundage isn’t necessary, a #70 bow, with fishtailing arrows will have less penetration then a lower poundage bow with perfect arrow flight." Funny how you just assume and then imply that all arrows shot from a 70# bow are not and cannot be shot with inaccurate fishtailing. That is absurd. What about this......a 70# bow shooting perfectly flying heavy arrows is light years better than a 40# bow shooting any perfectly flying arrow ? Did you ever think that was a possibility or are you just justifying the light bow weight that you simply prefer to shoot?
@@richienell I never assumed anything, I used a #70 recurve for years with perfect arrow flight, I was pointing out that a #70 bow with bad arrow flight is worse for penetration then a #40 bow with perfect arrow flight. Higher poundage bows can lead to very bad form, and they are harder to get and maintain good arrow flight, high poundage bows are less forgiving in every aspect!
@@markoharoldoronearmedpoohb7816 Well yea…. Bad arrow flight from any bow is worse than good arrow flight from a 40# or a 70# bow. But a perfect flying arrow from the heavier bow is better than any arrow from a lighter bow. That seems to never be mentioned when bowholders justify shooting the lighter weight bows. If you can’t build and shoot a perfectly flying arrow to maintain good arrow flight from a higher poundage bow…. Then that bow may be too heavy for you and that is a YOU problem. It is not the bow, the arrow or everyone else’s problem when shooting heavy bows.
@@richienell to me a #55 bow is a good weight, adequate for Elk and good for Deer, when I was making my own longbows years ago, #55 was my preferred weight. Any traditional Archery needs lots and lots of shooting time, every week of the year, and 3-5 days a week.
@@markoharoldoronearmedpoohb7816 I've taken two big bulls with sub 50# recurves. Perfect arrow flight and good front weight is key plus of course a good cut on impact broadhead.
I shoot a Bear TD 45lb@30” my draw length. My 3d arrows are 425Gr - 600 spine with 200gr up front. 30” arrow / 30.5 from back of point to valley of nock. Bare shafts perfect to 20+ yards. My hunting arrows are 500’s 550gr with 250grs up front.
Jeff I know you don't have elk in Alabama as far as I know. I know that elk have been planted states east of here in Oregon, Washington and Idaho, but not sure about your state. Here in Oregon where live and hunt, the minimum poundage for hunting with any bow is 40 pounds. Do you think that a 40 pound bow with the right arrow would be enough to take elk? Thanks Jerr, and I would also like to say that I love your videos. keep them coming buddy. Best of luck to you and yours.
Yes sir a well placed shot with the right arrow build and a razor sharp cut on contact head will certainly put one down, my friend Shawn Lewter is a guide and he took a bull with a 43# longbow and a G5 montec head on an axis 500 full penetration to the fletchings so yes but not every bow is equal either just being honest some shoot harder than others but in general 40# bow with at least a 550gr arrow is good and the stiffest shaft you can load up and tune is the key 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thanks Jeff I appreciate the reply so quickly. I was pretty sure a 40 pounder would do the job. Just wanted an expert opinion from someone experienced with long and recurve bows.
Hi Jeff, thank you for your wonderful video. Your videos helps me a lot. I need your help. My bow: draw length - 32 in draw weight - 40 lb distance - 20 ~ 50 meters would you kindly tell me: 1) what spine should I use for my arrow? 2) how heavy should my arrow be? 3) how heavy should the arrow tip be? Thank you very much.
Wow that’s a tough one lol but I’d think that your draw length being 32” even at 40# you would need to run at least a 500 with probably 225-250 grains up front giving you a total arrow weight of somewhere around 500 grains which is plenty heavy but you’ll definitely need to bare shaft tune it and play with the point weight also every bow is cut different at the shelf so some require weaker spines than others do, just let me know what you find out with that setup 👍🏻
I'm shooting around 42 lbs @ 27" longbow. 250 grain up front. Arrows flying perfect. Would you recommend a 2 blade double bevel, single bevel, or a 3 blade broadhead?
Well, the two blades get the most penetration but offer the poorest blood trail, a very sharp 3 blade in a 3:1 shape like a woodsman stainless elite is very good, the single bevels do tend to bust bone better than anything then again if you need a good blood trail stick with a 3 blade and put it behind the shoulder and nothing’s better for any traditional bow 👍🏻
I'm new to traditional. Shooting a full length began ICS hunter pro 500 spine with 175 grain. Should I shoot a heavier head for hunting. Always shot 29-29.5 in a compound. Not sure qhat I'm drawing a 40lb samick sage recurve.
Thanks Nicholas, you should be fine with a full length if it’s flying good with 175 but I would donate one arrow to test the limits maybe try 250 up front and cut about 1/4-1/2” at a time until it flies great, bare shaft tuning is complicated and my thoughts are the feathers correct the arrows within a few feet anyway but you definitely want beautiful flight and hitting where it’s supposed to, not left or right which indicates too stiff or too weak spine thanks so much brother 👍🏻
I have a 45lb traditional recurve bow. I shoot 500 spine arrows that are 28” long, I have a 100gr field top and they seem to fly really good. I just need to work on form, the only issue is I can’t find bigger wider broadheads without them being over 100gr
Yes sir and honestly unless you’re using heavier inserts than stock it really too light for point weight at least for hunting, you may be fine with a perfect shot and no ribs or shoulder but traditional arrows with only 100 grains up front don’t carry very much momentum or kinetic energy especially past 10 yards, I would highly recommend going with a heavier broadhead in a two blade like Simmons or Magnus just to give you a bit more penetration or at least the inserts either one will be a game changer for you brother and not affect your flight 👍🏻
Jeff I have what maybe a stupid question. I can’t my recurve bows slightly as like you do , doesn’t this take away a lot of problems with correct arrow spine on bows not cut to center ???? Been wondering about this for a long time!! Thanks
No you just change the angle of the off set. I go for a slightly stiffer shaft so I can easily switch to a heavier tip if/when I need. I shoot instinct so honestly I adapt even if my arrows are too stif. Its way more difficult if your arrows are too soft, let alone more dangerous.
So my 60" 40lb R/D longbow is shooting 28.5" legacy trads 600s with 225 grains up front. Shoots straight at 20 yards but its not as forgiving on my release.
Thank you! We actually built these bows for quite a while but decided to close the bow building facility last year, we had five different models of the Instinctive Addiction Bows, this one is a Passion C2 double carbon one piece 👍🏻
All right guys , I need help. Why when I add tip weight the bare shaft sticks nock high no matter what I do. I can put a 125 grain in my arrows and tune perfect. What am I doing wrong?
Okay, the problem is that the bow is not tillered for your shooting style most likely, therefore it’s going to have a nock high bare shaft no matter what with any decent point weight, but with that said I’ve most certainly had Easton Legacy arrows do the same thing to me, simply tried a Gold Tip and Bam! But what’s usually causing it is the upper limb outrunning or out working the lower limb causing it to ramp off the shelf, the only cure without reworking it is to add something underneath the shelf material like a large toothpick or something to elevate the shelf a little this usually works just fine but don’t trust the arrows completely it could be in them as well 👍🏻
Not really, the only thing that can actually make a noticeable difference is a longer insert which because it’s inside the shaft can actually stiffen up the spine of the arrow but usually not enough to matter, I do believe that arrows fly better with heavier points that the inserts than the other way around but if it’s tuned for the bow it’s still going to be fine 👍🏻
I’m finding hard to decide between 500 or 600 spine goldtip traditional arrows. Their spine chart says to go with a 500… 62” 40# recurve and I want to put a 200 grain total on front cut at 28 1/2”. Am I probably going to be good?
It really depends on your exact draw or for example, a 40# @28” bow pulling no more than 42# actual weight needs a 600 with 200gr up front and that’s with a carbon to carbon arrow length of no more than 29” so if the shaft is going to be longer than 29” you can go with a 500 but it really depends on your exact draw length and how many pounds you’re really pulling to determine which one, I’ve got a 42# 62” bow tuned perfectly with 29” 600’s and 250 up front pulling 27 1/4” so probably around 40# 👍🏻
I am shooting gold tip trad arrows in 600 spine cut at 27. My draw weight is @ 37 to 39# out of my recurve bow. My draw length is 25 3/4. I have added a 50gr. insert into my arrow's insert and with a 125 grain Montec it seems to fly nice . I just am not sure what that aluminum insert is. Maybe 22gr?
I shoot at my draw length 50# reflex deflex long bow with 400 spine and the 100 grain tips shoot way better than the 125 or 150 grain, so I'm wondering why I can't go up in point weight and get them to fly better?
I have vpa 200 and 150 I shoot compound but iam not shooting 200s this yr and I only shoot 56 lbs from it so I wanted efficient 515 grain 19% foc total arrow weight
I am a rifle hunter.. brand new to archery, but I am wanting to get into it. For now it will be mostly learning the skill while target shooting as a hobby, but I would also like to be able to kill small game with the bow I choose. That being said, it was my plan to get a new 35# SAS Maverick for $200 as a starter bow, upgrade the string, and get going into this new endeavor. I might still do that, but then I found a deal on a 1953 Vintage Bear Glass Powered Grizzly 58" 45# Recurve Bow, Canadian, for $98. It would need a new string and arrow rest, but otherwise in good shape. My question is, would you bother with the vintage Grizzly at 45#? Or would you go ahead with the new Maverick as your starter bow? (I am 5'2", female, athletic and active, and my draw length is 24-25", so that 35# would look more like 30# draw for me, and the 45# bow might look more like a 40# bow for me? .. I don't want to be "over-bowed," as I hear it is a common mistake for people starting out, but also would prefer to clean up and customize a better quality vintage bow for a good deal. Thoughts, anyone? Much appreciated!
Anything 40-45# should be great and yes you need to develop your process with a lower poundage bow that shoots comfortably with matched spine arrows and then move up to a more expensive rig but still not too heavy weight 👍🏻
I shoot a 43 lbs black widow recurve with 500 spine Black eagle carbons cut at 29 inches with 175 grain German jaeger up front and get complete pass through on white tails at 20 yrds and closer.
thoughts on Big Jim's Dark Timber arrows? shooting 40lb longbow with a 28.5 draw length and wondering if the .006 straightness is a good enough reason to pass on them and purchase more expensive arrows?
Hi Jeff, I love these vids as I'm a newcomer, and these vids help, I'm deciding on what to get for hunting arrows and trying to figure out the best spine before a spend a bunch of cash on arrows. I am using the CAIRN at 62" 27 inch draw and 40#, the arrows I have with it are the Easton Aluminum Jazz cut at 28.25", I would like to shoot either a 150 GR, Zwickey or Magnus .I haven't been able to shoot them yet as I just got them, but alot of stuff I'm finding out by trial and error, can you suggest a good set up for deer ? so any help would be appreciated, Thanks!
Absolutely! I’d go with gold tip warriors from 3rivers in 600 spine with the 100 grain brass inserts, you’ll be very happy with that setup especially using 150 grain heads and plenty of penetration 👍🏻
@@timbo749 yes sir you’re probably going to need a 500 if you’re going to run heavy point weight but in the Cairn video I got a 600 cut 28” with like 200 grains to bare shaft perfect, it’s all dependent on point weight and total arrow length but I’d definitely try one bare shaft to see if they are stiff enough and they probably are 👍🏻
Just out of curiosity are minimum weight regulations always taken at 28inches? I have a 32 inch draw and shoot a 35 lb bow but at my draw length i am holding around 48 to 50 with the 35lb limbs. Is this taken into account with the authorities that stipulate minimum draw length?
I have to use my at Draw length, that is what South Dakota says in the handbook When Drawn, one of the few states like this that knows drawn weight is different from bow weight or knows that weight on the bow can be faked. So I need a bow that is for deer/turkey at 30 pounds and I know my 36 pound fiberglass flat limb longbow is sometimes under 30 pounds when I draw to the draw spot for that bow that is due to the brace height being 4.5--5 inches for that bow model. My other bow is a bought new OEELINE Airobow the one piece 54 inch recurve model that is 45 pounds @ 28 inches that. I draw 35 pounds on using a Fast flight String as it is Fast Flight capable. I know I would from same bow model if hunting Elk (really only found in Black Hills of South Dakota and live further from them so not really going to hunt Elk) I need to shoot minimum of 40 pounds so I would need a 55--60 pound bow just to get that draw. This is part of why I have a cheap electronic fishing/baggage weight tester to find my draw length for the bow. Using that tester I found my duel sided fiberglass Longbow Actionbow by Actionrod 8200 a 60 inch bow at 36 inches is too light in my draw to the anchor point of that bow as sometimes I do not get to 29 pounds with my anchor point for that bow model but normally get 33--34 pounds due in part to the bow having a 4.5--5 inch brace height, still could be a nice bow for hunting small game including Coyote and for fun target shooting as well as learning how to shoot from the right side gripping the way I do for left eye dominate.
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Unfortunately,,in recent years,Nevada has gotten lazy and decided that if bow is marked 40 lbs at 28,it is legal,,regardless...
Hmm that’s a tough one but I would honestly not recommend deer hunting with less than around 38# I’m sure a perfect shot with probably a 700 spine and at least 200gr up front would do it but 30 sure sounds really light in any traditional bow but I’ve never tried it lol thanks so much brother 👍🏻
Am a staunch proponent of shooting the most draw weight with a matched proper arrow design in order to deliver a lethal dose of momentum. Have built several set up several light setups for hunters that have consistently proven lethal. The following are just a couple that I have setup for other hunters: One setup with all pass thru’s…42@25 Thunderchild…25” actual draw…100 gn insert w/190 gn Trees shark….all pass thru’s except for one spine shot…before that - 100 gn insert and 200 gn 2 blade VPA….the hunter actually switched to the 190 gn Tree Shark… wouldn’t haven’t recommended it yet I was there for four recoveries. One most recent setup…1965 Kodiak Magnum…34@ 27…hunter’s actually draw is 27”….Easton Legacy 600…50 gn insert…150 gn Woodsman…..he is five for five and all pass thru’s….furthest track has been 60 yards…Note: he is a gentleman of the highest integrity. I don’t even observe these kinds of results with my much higher-powered setups.
I'm studying 40-45lbs bow market. Totally true that not all bows store energy same way. There guy close to me that build bows 60 lbs bow shooting 36 KE 595grain arrow at 166fps. Bear cheyenne 47lbs 42 KE 580grain arrow at 181 fps. Not sure if cheyenne he got one of kind or they all more less the same? I see the magic number 36 KE. guy killed kudu with 60lbs bow. I'm 5ft9 and don't plan on pulling 60 lbs bow. So if at max 47lbs.. so many different companies building bows.
Unfortunately some states like Idaho require 45 lbs. Biggest elk I have ever seen killed with a bow was shot with a 48 lb recurve. He has a stock of vintage Fred Bear broad heads. He makes his own cypress shafts. He has a jig with a small block plane.
I haven't looked into draw weights in a long time. When I was a kid the minimum was 45 lbs almost everywhere, just looked and some states unless I read it wrong, like Florida has a maximum weight of 30 lbs while Wisconson has a minumum of 100 lbs.
@@tattoolimbo Wisconsin is 35 pounds last I looked. It was 40 pounds in the 1990's but then in 2009 dropped to 35 pounds due to what they thought 90% were using, Compounds had gotten way faster then they were in 1980's when the law dropped from 45 pound bows to 40 pound due to speed getting better.
@@caseysmith544 I has did a search for.states minimum bow weights and 100 lbs was what that sight reported so that's what I went with . It didn't seem right but I don't have anything else to go by.
You’re probably going to need a 700 spine with around 225-250 grains of point weight with that light weight possibly an 800 spine with maybe 200 grains up front but I’d try to limit it to 15 yards just because it’s not going to have a lot of energy much past that so you have to make it up with arrow momentum.
This whole discussion seems to always be totally forgetting the quickness of the limbs. Not all woods, designs, materials react the same. To keep only focusing on weight is a big mistake. Only thing that matters is weight of the arrow, and the speed it’s going. How hard it is to pull the string back is not the only influence
Yes sir, we decided to close the shop back in early August and are no longer building the bows strictly for health reasons, it was taking a serious toll on us with all the dust and carbon but there are a few popping up occasionally on the Facebook traditional classified pages.
@@brandonclark8394 I would say the 400’s would be way too stiff, you should probably be shooting a 600 spine cut to around 27” with only 200 grains up front pulling probably somewhere around 39-40# even a 500 will be stiff unless it’s full length.
Ok how can I contact you I’m really interested in your bows and arrows but I’m a short guy with a 25” draw length but I want to hunt deer and smaller game
I have always used a 65lb recurve self bow. Recently, I became disabled from an accident, leaving me unable to draw a bow over 45lbs. For the last year, I've been target shooting with a 38lb longbow a friend gave me. I feel I can use a 40lb bow fine , but that's about My limit due to shoulder,elbow,and wrist damage...and hip,and knee. All on the right side. I was depressed and sad about it a long time but God sent someone to smack me out of my self-pity on disability I barely pay the bills so e new bow is an investment, my question is, is the longbow design any better in my situation?it seems smother, and a little easier to draw, or is that just perception? I am happy with either in any event it will be 40lbs any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks and God bless.
A recurve will usually be faster, so that might be a consideration for you. The main thing is to be sure you get perfect arrow flight. Good luck and glad you are getting back to the bow!
I'm not saying you're wrong because obviously you shoot them great and know way more than me I'm just a little confused because from all the arrow charts I've looked at and from messing with arrow calculators It all seems to say 250 is way too much FOC on a 500 spine that's anywhere near those lengths. I'm shooting a 40lb recurve.
Yes sir I understand but honestly anyone involved in traditional arrow building will probably tell you that the arrow charts are not very reliable or accurate mainly because they’re based on a 100gr tip weight in the calculations but I assure you 250gr is definitely not too much for a traditional hunting arrow, there are lots of guys shooting way more than that out of 40 pound bows but I honestly don’t feel the need for much more, my best performing setup from a 41 pound longbow was a 600 axis with the 100 gr brass hit inserts and a 125gr Magnus it was deadly!
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 okay so I wanted 500's but the arrows I ended up buying our Black eagle instincts with a 600 spine and a 100 grain outsert. I was going to cut them to 29" and start with a 100 grain tip and work my way up. Does that sound about right or what do you think would be a good length and tip weight? Again I have a 40 lb bow at 28" and I'm drawing 28". The bow is a Black Hunter deluxe.
We are no longer building bows but they pop up from time to time on Facebook traditional classified pages, I’ve seen a couple for sale in the last few weeks actually.
what part of north alabama you from? i live in jackson county and id love to do an interview with you and maybe send some of my 15000 subs your way. let me know if you are interested bud
Carbon arrows are easy to get tear out unless using cutting disk at decent speed. If you are tuning any carbon arrows a arrow saw is needed. Some build them with dremel tools mounted to a straight cut and they do work but most dremel tools dont have much torque and cutting disk needs to carry decent amount of speed . So usualy end up feathering into cut to keep disk speed up. Some even free hand cut with dremel but you realy need to dress the end of arrow after this method to make sure end is square. I have a arrow saw and spend avarge 15 minutes squaring both ends of my arrows . I use a sharpie to mark end and to identifi end is square when all mark is sanded off in a pass. Then knock tune finding lately gold tip arrows are very sensitive. I guess quality control not as good as it used to be. A bit much mabe but I've found with fletches a fishtail can sometimes be tuned out by a simple knock tune . Have found the alignment of the spine if running horizontal can vary spine by a couple inches. I dont have a alignment tester but just turn 1/16 of a turn till it comes in with other arrows then mark . Next turn knock 180 degrees and see if it's better or same. Not really persice either seam of arrow pointing up or down but at least its verticle and gets spine consistant.
The shame about living in a state that is unreasonable is that there's a 50lb minimum draw weight on elk, but I can use 40 for deer etc, after a 3000lb car bomb and all the rest of the crap that came with it I guess I better enjoy it while I still can, because it's going to end long before I do lol.
Talking about the orders to me sounds bad. Means the traditional people out there getting older and newer hunters are going more toward compound and crossbow.
Well actually probably 80% of the orders for bows under 45# are for much younger guys as strange as it is, lots of older guys still shoot bows well over that mainly longbows but I believe it’s because a lot are shooting 3D and hunting plus just want a really smooth and comfortable weight but either way they’re very popular right now for sure 👍🏻
