This L77 has points ignition. You need to take off that plastic points cover and clean points contacts with some 300 grid sand paper. It will spark, believe me. That rust on the magnets and coil does not hurt the spark. Magnetism does not care about rust.
Nice "puller" build :) , if I remember correctly , there is a set of points under that cover, bet a little crocus cloth on those points makes it sparky again, possibly a condenser as well. Believe is or not they are still available from a few places. I have an old L65 that needs a little attention on the points, this make jog me off center to get it sparky.
Hi Friend ! Why did you not sand the points ? That often be the culprit ! Sanding the magneto and the coil contact...i thought was secondary cause for ignition failior... but needed to be sanded...i agree. Hmm I have several those types and one i damaged totally the magnets on...when kick on the cranckshaft... I glued them together though with JB weld..and stubburn to get it to run. Love the saws..and guess what...it did work after...with gled togeter broken pieces of magneto. Chainsaws is useful and fun. Nice to be able to control their maintenance...thx to guys like you. Happy New year and hope things are well. Good channel ! :-)
I have the L77. I’m not getting fire to the plug. What video would you recommend that would help me diagnose what’s going on. It ran last year but I can’t get it to fire this year. Thank you sir. Happy Labor Day. Sorry after watching this video I realized this was probably the best video to watch lol
Tinman I just spent all day wrenching on an old husky L77! I Got the piston unseized with a whole lot of PB blaster at ATF. There's barely any videos out here on the old L77 or L65. I wish you luck with finding spark my man!
It looks like the old sachs dolmar ignition. Maybe you can put the ignition of a sachs dolmar 119 or 120 on it. That way you would have this thing to be with an electronic ignition. If I am correct I still have one that works laying around...
Rust in between the laminations actually makes them work. Each layer is doing its owner thing. If they make contact they cancel each other out. Each laminate has it's own frequency.
I converted the ignition system on my stihl 045 to electronic with an ignition chip. Dukes saws sells them on eBay, I would guess the condenser is shot.
I'm not gonna lie, brother. I was yelling at the TV screen for you to make sure you had the ignition switch on... its real easy to test for spark with that stupid switch in the off position..... ask me how I know 😜
I know the custom exhaust pipes are all the "cool" but in practical terms I view them as a liability, large and protruding and fragile, seems to me they would be asking to get dinged when the saw gets pulled hard into a log?
Silly newb question but with the hole in the oil tank could you go over and over it with brakeclean and/or electrical contact cleaner then giver the ol JB? Or would the oil behind it just cause near immediate failure?
a drop of oil on the end of the pointed bolt will help minimize metal galling. An affordable puller (not the round Stihl unit!) that is available on ebay will accomplish the job too...less time and cobbling involved than a DIY. I recently bought this ebay unit and it will fit up to virtually any bolt pattern on the flywheel. Mine was sourced through custom chainsaw parts in Washington.
For the holed oil tank- you might try some of that “ new “ aluminum filler rod that melts at a lower temperature, sort of like brazing rod, slap a patch on it. Or just acetone and JB weld. It’s oil, and not under pressure. Cheap fix!
Hey tin man I'm definitely gonna be emailing you pretty soon lol. I have A555 that gentleman says he can't figure out what's wrong with it so if I can't Figure it out you'll be getting an email old boy! Merry Christmas. Trying to grow my channel and would absolutely love a subscription from you!
I've done one repair like this using a fine mesh screen and chemical metal from the outside...dress it up afterwards with paint. That was on a jonsered 100% lasted
Darn right them 056s ran them. I've even seen one on an 041,not sure if it was stock or what,but it's the only one outta 6 I have like that. If I dont see ya before the new year, just want to wish the Tinman family a Happy New Year
Be careful to much heat can destroy magnetism ive done it with a rm250 dirtbike ended up chasing my tail for weeks over it, other thing is the saw has a points set up and the last thing is rust does not effect magnetism it is in the briggs and stratton mechanic test
there's a product called "Seal All"!! it works awesome on oil, and gas leaks! been using it for yrs!! gas can be running out of the tank and you make a little ball of it in your fingers and press it directly on the leak and it stops!! then i usually gob some more over and smooth it out! used it on rusted truck gas tanks in the day! i get it at napa parts stores around here! great vid!! love em'!! take er' easy! has the consistency and looks like airplane glue!!
prolly could add a small piece of aluminum over the hole after you seal it and gobber over that till you find a new tank! question! its been suggested that i try a .325 9T rim and a 24 in bar and chain on my 2163 to 2176.5 saw build! think it will cut faster than a .375-7 rim with a 24 in bar?? afleet suggested that!
Why grind a point on the end of the bolt? It's already centred over the shaft so doesn't need it to locate. The flat end of the bolt would be less likely to damage the crankshaft.
The point is needed to keep the bolt from walking off the end of the crank, which will cause damage. Without a point , they will almost always walk off and you'll bend something or damage threads.
@@b.butcher82 I can't see a bolt of that diameter, threaded through a nut that is fixed by three machine screws, walking off. Different situation to a 3 jaw puller.
