Thanks so much. On my tasks to do, I am about to do a small tang crack repair and tighten up a slender stock on a very old Belgian made double barrel. Your video has given me some great pointers. Also, thank you for your service to our country.
Hey Eric, try a popsicle stick as an applicator. The rounded end works better to push the glass into the undercuts for the mechanical bond. And fills better.
On my type 99 Arisaka, were the anti aircraft sights are. I had the rifle set upright with the sights up for photography. Well it fell over, wings were out so as it fell and caught wing, it applied pressure on the wooden hand guard that holds it in place, it cracked. So i used very lightly gorilla construction adhesive with a small paint brush to get the glue in place. Worked very well. Eventually i'll pay someone to to a full restoration on it.
It's kind of nice to watch you and Mark Novak. There are more than two ways to skin a cat and it's the intended result that matters. Good enough IS good enough, as long as you stay true to what's good enough.
The M46 is a great and reliable rifle based on the Swedish Mauser carbine M94 (small ring Mauser) The later model Husqvarna M146 is based on the Swedish (or German) Mauser M98 (large ring Mauser) which is considered even more safer and reliably. I used to have exactly the same model in same caliber (9,3x57). It was originally bought by my great grandfather, passed on to me from my father, and now in the hands of my son. The rifle is still in use and very accurate. I’m not sure if the headspace issue has any practical drawback, except slightly higher wear of brass? If you should do anything, I would recommend to thread in the barrel rather than rechamfer to 9,3x62 or another larger cartridge. This by several reasons: 1. The mechanism isn’t as strong as the large ring Mauser. 2. 9,3x57 is a fantastic caliber with reasonable light and slow recoil, more suitable to the original stock (it can be really painful to shoot 9,3x62 in an original Husqvarna stock). 3. The 57 is generally considered to have more “death” than the 62. Strange but true. It will pretty much always leave all energy in the animal (bullet is found just under the skin on opposite side for moose, red deer and wild boar), while the 62 most commonly poke a hole all the way thru the animal. This with the standard 18,5 g bullets (286 grains). I like that you take such good care of a, probably 100 year old rifle, even if it is a standard “meat iron”!
Hey we love this stuff and eat it up. These more in depth gunsmithing I leave to the professionals but as an owner I still need to have the knowledge. Keep up the good work and thanks so much, always.
Eric, I really enjoy seeing you ,Othias, Mae, Mark and Ian making such great effort to preserve and still use these historic arms. It's a sad fact history isn't being taught in schools. This applies not only to firearms but also to the arts, communication, literature, transportation and so many aspects of our society. I'm a big fan of old sayings and one that comes to mind is, it's hard to know where you're going if you don't know where you've been. I'm looking forward to the next chapter on this gun. Thanks.
Jim, thank you. I really hope people see the fact that we want to preserve historical firearms, and make them available for future generations. In this case, we also want to film a hunt with this rifle so people can see the old Potato Thrower still has it.
I really like your shop explanations. Forster says if your bolt DOES close on a Field headspace gauge, the rifle’s bolt face/chamber are at the end of useable service life, and may in fact be unsafe to shoot. I always use all three (Go/NoGo/Field) gauges on every rifle I am considering buying or that I build.
Not a wood worker but i work on cars... When steel or metals crack you generally drill into the end of the cracke to stop it from spreading. Im fairly intelligent and common sense tells me to drill this crack as well to stop it from continuing. I have a feeling this crack will keep spreading if you dont do that
I dealt with this same issue dealing with my spanish 1893's. What i found out is the saami spec for metric calibers is different in the us than it is in Europe at the time that the rifles were manufactured. The spacing is roughly. 01-.02mm. With a service point of .0275 mm maximum! That converts to 0.0039" to .0079" with a field maximum of .009" . Saami spec dictates max end is .007" . The rifles were designed for wartime dirt, mud and sand. Sloppy works with reliability. If its worn out too far, back to the armory it went for a rebarrel. Hope this helps. My Spanish 93's are .006" and .007 respectively.
You should try the use of Cream of Wheat for fire forming. I used it with a semi-custom AR-15 Caliber and it worked like a dream and no use of a bullet.
I've been watching this channel for so long that I catch myself saying "by any stretch of the imagination" constantly. I've never heard it anywhere else.
Just bought a Husqvarna 1640, they have the same issue regarding cracking behind tang, so before I even take it out to the range I'm doing this. Considering bedding the whole receiver while I'm at it but I've never done something like this before so, start small and all that
As to fire forming, a charge of 20gr of 2400 topped with a full case of corn meal makes the prettiest fire form. To save work a chamber ream in 9.3x62 would be my direction, great video hope they don't bump you cause you are showing us how to....
Sir, a suggestion when demonstrating the head space gauge process remove the striker, shroud and spring from inside the bold. Thus allowing you to carefully feel any resistance as the bolt handle is lowered. Keep up the great vids!
Hi, your next option is recut the chamber to 9.3x62 .but it is a little bit tight in the magazine. You will need to install a recoil lug bolt . glassing doesn't help because you are only replacing wood with glass .You really need to leave a gap
I did a full length bedding on an 03a3 that had a cracked tang and lots of other issues with it. I ended up taping the sides of the flats on the lower portion of the action and far rear of the tang to give .006" relief with the tape removed. The bottom of the action, rear of the recoil lug and steel pillars are the only contact points. Still not entirely sure if my thought process of relieving the farthest rear of the tang and sides of the flats was "right" but it shoots like it was the correct way to do it.
Eric, think a better solution would be to remove the barrel, machine it down one full thread, and rechamber. Having to have custom ammo is not a permanent solution. Or is it feasible to rechamber to 9.3X62?
When a tang crack develops it is from recoil forces from the tang, usually AFTER the recoil lug area has failed, and now the tang is bearing against weak wood at the grip. At 21:30 it appears your wood between the recoil lug and magazine inletting is cracked loose and is merely a press fit. This can easily be detected by applying drops of brake cleaner or alcohol to the wood that will highlight the cracks as it evaporates. Break out the wood behind the lug, epoxy it back in place then bed the whole lug area in one job. Apply one layer of tape to the rear of the tang to provide a slight gap before bedding to prevent more tang cracks. Grip chip-outs wont ever happen if the tang never touches. Mausers, 1917's, 1903 all do this all the time. Its why later 1903 stocks have an intentional gap at the rear, Mosins too.
could you do a refinishing video using durablue on an old hunting rifle and do some durability testing? The reason i am asking is i have an old marlin 30-30 lever action and it has been through the ringer bounced off the back of an atv and scratched and dinged up the blueing has worn thin on it in places and its getting to the point where its starting to rust quickly but it is still a good shooter. I dont want to spend a lot of money to get it refinished and would like to see what some one could do at home to clean up an old beat up hunting rifle. I love the gunsmithing videos and would like to see more of them.
If you use a lil 1\2in disc to cut a groove across the cracked spot u could use a little piece of wood like a biscuit joint on this crack. Or drill a angled hole and glue a brad nail in it
I've seen some variance in the chambers of these rifles I normally size my 8mm brass up to 9.3mm then expand that to .40cal. For each rifle I slowly size the brass until it just barely chambers then fire form.
Hi,this headspace problem was probably a factory flaw because in Sweden they don't get to shoot enough to wear out a chamber . Also this gun probably took many moose being fired as is not knowing there was excessive head space and inadvertently fire forming cases because swedes are notorious for handloading
I really liked when Brownels came out with the gel form. the older stuff i still use but the gel isn't sooo sloppy . Gotta have a Dremel with all kinds of bits doing this type of work too. Good video.
The glass bedding kinda looks like dried cosmoline, crud, or grime. Adds a little character to the stock for anyone who doesn't know a repair was done.
- But you've also got at least one 9.3x62 rifle, so I suspect you've also got [a] gauge[s] for th[at/em] so why not just chuck that in & see if it locks up right? If it doesn't go ahead & cast the chamber.
If it’s a 9.3 x 62 take a 3006 and prime then change with 8 grains of 700x shotgun powder then fill case with corn meal and plug neck with toilet paper, fire form in rifle, outside in a safe direction,
Great video !! These are super cool rifles, mine was built in 1929. If you need Norma 9.3x57 brass there is a guy on 24HRCF that has a bunch of it for sale.
I have a Erma werke model m1 22 rifle it was given to me by my friends wife after his death I'd love to learn more about this rifle history the big problems for me when it was found it had no magazine and I would love to find one and shoot this gun I made a little video of it but don't know how to send it to you . I have heard these were used to train guys in boot camp because the actual M1 carbine was needed so bad in the battlefield I also heard that the company that made this went out of business in the 50's but have no idea was wondering if you help
You can look it up online, Erma was a Bavarian company doing 22 and blank firing guns yet in high quality after the war these run around 60 E a magazine here (brd) since they are no longer produced and peope stock up on things that current regimes want to illegalize. 5 rounders are available.
Eric , I can understand not wanting to go overboard on a milsurp repair . Why not pull the barrel cut back the shoulder and then correct the headspace with a finish reamer ? Is a reamer not available ?
We are exploring options for the headspace issue. I think we are going to open it up to 9.3x62mm or I should say Mr. Novak is. I’m not 110 percent comfortable pulling barrels
I don't know about you, but I always load a rifle before working on in. It ads a dose of excitement to a tedious, boring job. I once worked on a M70AB2 with an M60 TKM attached to the barrel. For some reason I don't understand, I was reassigned to a medical unit.
I wish you would make a video shooting this rifle and doing a dedicated video just on this rifle and show us how to fireform some brass from 8 mm to 9.3
The mauser extractor was designed to snap over a case rim, in the event that the controlled feed failed (which happens) they wanted to reduce the chances of a double feed and out of battery discharge. Some early civilian controlled feed designs (winchester) did not have a significantly beveled extractor face, and could be damaged by forcefully snapping over a case rim.
@@BigATB I have chambered rounds like that in all my old winchesters, other mausers, the Sako mauser I used in Africa, no truth whatsoever to that claim
@@BigATB Snap over a case rim? perhaps...a case made of brass. But not a hardened steel go or no-go gauge. I have seen broken extractors AND chipped gauges from this malpractice.
Nit that I know but my guess is he would have to clock the barrel inwards and would move the iron sights with it wick leaves the options of refit the irons or remove them and put on the scope.
It would have been weird if it was a 9,3x62. It is true that they only marked the old 9,3x57 "9,3" but when they started chambering 9,3x62 they marked them as such.
dont wet me wrong erik is good in lots of things related to gunsmithing , he never claims to be a pro and y am not one too , he is trying to make a work witout having to interfeer to much with the stock and y understand it . messing with the wood is one of the worst parts in theese trade in my understanding and good wood fiters are gone for ever thats why all factories go with polimers now adays wood is always alive and does strange things .
Gungeek yeah ok but it looks like the front action screw and the additional screw in front of the chamber are meant to tranfer the recoil, like with my ZKK600 stock and that one takes 9,3x64 fine - at least up to now it's not a cardridge you shoot hundreds of rounds every outing ;) The tang had space while the rest seemed tightly fitted and i relieved it again a bit axially after i acraglassed the action.
Gungeek Can't see anything going into the cutout in the stock on the receiver, the ZKK has a broad sturdy shelf on the sides of the front action screw maybe that's the difference.
