Luke, you are THE reference for chinese bike part reviews! When the likes of Shimano and Sram are hitting the clouds with hi tech, high prices, an increasing number of us mortals are looking to you for the more down to Earth affordable alternatives! Keep them coming!!
There is NOTHING hi-tech about bikes. It's all quite lower end technology compared to cars or moto-cycles. It is all just an exercise in excessive marketing.
These reviews and just your content in general are 10x more entertaining, informative, thorough, and fair than channels like GCN. AND your level of production is so good too!!! I wish there were more channels like yours since I always find myself wanting more!! Keep up the amazing work, Luke!! 🥳
Thanks for your videos! I’m already using LTWOO GRT 1x12 groupset. And it’s great ) The main reason I choose 12 speed is 10t on a cassette. So it’s 10% more than 11 speed. I’m and my friends from Russia loves your video! Have a good day 😊
Nice one. I felt you speaking directly to me when you were talking about trepidation toward setting up / bleeding hydraulic brakes. Looks like I need to go watch another video. Thanks again for the great content! 🥖🥖🥖
I'm now doing my 3rd build, converting a 2nd hand aluminium hybrid (Trek FX2 disc) into a road/gravel bike. I have the groupset (a 2nd hand steal, hydraulic disc Sram Red 22 etap, minus the chainset for around £750), but I'm looking at getting lots of cheap Chinese aliexpress parts, like carbon cranks, handlebar, bottle cages, pedals, etc. I rely on your videos so much for my research. Thank you for being so brave and friendly and helping the cycling community on a budget! 🥖🥖🥖🥖
Great work Luke! You upgraded the quality of you videos with more consistent uploads, not something that anyone can achieve. I hope that the channel continues to grow because you deserve it 💪🏼
Thanks for the video Luke, I hope LTWOO would update their budget shifter design (for rim brakes) similar to the RX line. I'm using an old classic bike with a Shimano GS and I would love to have an 11 speed groupset.
Thank you for this video, I'm right at the early stages of planing my 1st Carbon speed budget bike build. Very helpful. Congrats on leaving your full time job so you can help us budget builders. Cheers from Brazil.
From 8:30 to 8:53 anyone who's really going fot it knows how important those 4-5-6-7 shifts, sprinting all the way down to your 12t are. When the shifts are hanging up, even for half a second, there goes your PB right there. I would be playing with my barrel adjustments the whole ride.
Good episode. Especially concerning the migration to hydralic. It does feel more challenging than it is but assuming its done correctly the reliability and stopping power is unmatched. I had one brief moment where I lost brakes and walked home but lesson learned. Eventually I disassembled, cleaned and resaasembled calipers successfully on downhill mtb. The production standards should be very high given the consequences of failure but hydralic systems are vastly superior and at this price worth the added costs. I want to see which gravel/hybrid tobuy as I get dirty often. Might even try drop bars.
Hydraulic disc brakes are a superior pain in the ass! Wherever you look-Unbound 200,Giro d’Italia etc we had crashes because of disc brakes-They force the teams to use wider tyres( That’s for comfort they say..) but it’s still not enough traction- you easily over brake and stop the front wheel. Disc brakes enable the riders to brake much later before a turn,but then they’re running out of road! They’re not yet ready for racing , but the bike industry uses willful customers instead of running tests how these turn out in the long run. One is for sure: I never heard any of the guys i raced with saying : “ I lost my brakes” , not to even begin with the awful sounds of a group ride entering corners.....
Congratulations on going full time Luke! You’ve earned it. I’m liking the little on-bike clips in amongst the meat (parts). I said “on-bike” so please don’t fall off and break a shifter again 😅 Great content, really like the green callipers (😍) and see you next time.
Might try and turn my Grandsons Hybrid into a Gravel Bike using this group set Luke. Glad your decision is working out and for me your up there with the biggest China Cycling , GCN, Oz Cycles Francis Cade just to name a few.
Really the group set of the people is now 10 speed Tiagra. All the quality and a good price. You could save a couple of hundred going to the 11speed LT group but really is a couple of hundy worth the compromise? Love your videos thank you for your interesting contribution to the cycling product information available on YT.
Love the channel Luke. Keep up the great work. Talking of which i noticed a very slick looking newer style integrated bar and stem on your bike in this video? Does that mean a review of these is coming soon. Can't wait to see if so, as im keen on a cheap Chinese pair, rather than paying ridiculous amount for a brand name pair. Being a heavy rider myself (close to 100kg) im a little nervous about the Chinese versions.
Keep it up Luke, great video again 👍 Always enjoy your thorough and humorous reviews of these china parts that are getting better and better. Good luck with the full time youtube job! 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖 Yet again great advice and tips, esp 11 vs 12 speed - we won't get this anywhere else! BTW don't stress. Do what you do best - it will work out😊 Best wishes all round💪💪🤘🥖🏆🤘💪
I just installed my GR9 hydraulic groupset and I am disappointed. The shifting resistance is appauling. I used ltwoo's supplied cable and a jagwire housing. The cable looks good quality. Copper-colored so maybe it's coated with something. It's definitely polished and smooth so maybe it's the cheap housing or the fact that I routed it on the front side of the handlebar where the horizontal bent is bigger forcing the housing to bent more. The levers have another groove to route the housing on the back side of the handle bar for a less bent of the housing so I must give it a try. But the worst thing is that the left lever bleed port screw is tightened so hard that it won't budge. I stripped and rounded its head trying to loosen it and now it's stuck forever. Suprisingly I was able to bleed the system using just one syringe plugged into the caliper so from top to bottom. But anyway I am waiting for the seller's response and his solution becasue this lever qualifies for a replacement. Other drawbacks: 1. Rubber of the hoods is slippery although it has a matte feel to it and has a texture. Shimano's hoods are way more grippy. 2. To save manufacturing costs, for the left lever they use a lever from a 2x groupset (maybe rx) because it has guiding groves for the shifter housing under the hood. They simply just don't put the cable ratchet pulley and shifitng paddle and trigger. That's ok but without this ratchert, there's a gaping hole underneath the lever where all the gunk and dust may build up. Also while on the hoods having your index and middle fimgers wrapped around the hood, you can feel that hole and it's edges under the fingers tips which is uncomfortable. Especially when you grasp firmly while pedalling hard out of the saddle uphill. How much would it cost them to desing a simple plate cover with an i.e. elastic latch similar to those of battery compartments in tv remote controllers? 3. Downshift trigger is in awkward position. Its position and overall lever shape is heavily inspired on Campagnolo Ekar levers which apparently have the same problem which Paul from Mapdec Cycles reported in one of his reels. On the hoods to reach it you have to sort of lift your hand and twist it inwards. also when pressing down the trigger, if you have your fingers wrapped underneath the lever, they are right under the trigger and obstruct its downward travel so you also have to move them away. I would expect the trigger to be place more towards the front of the lever just like it is in ltwoo's mechanical road levers like r9, r7, r5... Also, it offers up to 3-4 downshift with single push. I think this is unnecessary, because it causes excessive unwanted downshifts. It could be justified in the road RX groupset in finish line sprint situations, but this is a gravel groupset so I think it's pointless and useless. On the plus side, the trigger is ergonomic and right were you'd look for it while on the drops. 4. Lever instllation is troublesome. The bolt clamp is located in the center of the lever body so the vertical part with the master cylinder obstructs access to it to an extent. Also, the bolt is very hard to reach becuse the rubber of the hood is very tight and does not peel off enough to expose the bolt. You need to have an extended hex wrench with a ball-head end and prefferably with an attachable handle. With a standard-sized wrench it will be very hard to reach the bolt. For comparison, in Shimano levers the bolt is on the outer side of the lever body and it only takes to slide the wrench under the hood to reach it. 5. The rear derailleur isa bit too big. I've installed it on an Accent Furious Pro frame and noticed that if I loosen the b-tention screw too much, the front of the derailleur where the clutch is located touches the chainstay and wedges on it preventing normal operation. Also, the part of the derailleur with this clutch is visibally made out of some kind of composite material, probably based on nylon. It's definitely not metal. The rest of the parts, like the pantograph, pulley cage are indeed metal. Unless you buy a version with a carbon pulley cage of course. Pros: 1. Overall quality is good. The logo imprints are good. They are thick and have a nice sort of brushed aluminum texture. 2. The shape of the hoods and lever blades is ergonomic. They feel good under the fingers both on the hoods and on the drops. A this point I honestly do not recommend GR9. It's not worth the risk. I can recommend R5 because I have had these levers for two years now and they have not failed so far although the shifting resistance is also quite strong but not as strong as with these GR9 eventough I have the shifting cable routes along the front of the handlebar as well . The overall build quality and shifting is comparable to Shimano Sora..
You know what? I especially waited for the next Trace Velo video for an order at Siroko because Luke gets a bit of that as well. About the group set - can you exchange that oxidising parts for Shimano or similar as well? Maybe it's worth looking for that. I still might convince myself to build a bike in my vacation - just for the experience, mainly, I am not so extreme active that my gravel bike would held me back - and that is another thing pulling me in that direction. Hydraulic breaking for about 200€... 🥖
Hi Luke, first of all, congratulations for all these videos and analyses. you are a real source of inspiration and criticism.i would like to know something: what about the og-evkin cf 025 frame after 2000km?. you don't say a word about it but may be will it be the subject of another video?best regards.Olivier from Belgium
Another good video Luke, but as regards Siroko, I agree they make fantastic clothes, .......... but beware about returning things to their Gustav Eiffel, Asturia address: the Spanish post office failed to deliver my return Furkass jersey on 2 seperate occasions, ( having ordered it back in January 2023). When the Jersey finally got back to Siroko a couple of weeks ago ( via DHL paid for by Siroko) Siroko then sent a 2XL Jersey when I requested XL in writing numerous times. Anyone else had this experience? I would again say their clothes brilliant!
I'd say if L-Twoo can't get shifting to stay consistent with their 12-speed groupset, then their system needs more work. I've been running 12-speed Campy Chorus for almost 4 years, and it continues to work without issue, so it is definitely NOT a foregone conclusion that 12-speed mech drivetrains can't stay properly adjusted. As for whether someone needs 12-speed or whether someone cannot tell the difference between 11 and 12-speed groups when riding, that's entirely a function of personal preference. If you can't tell a difference that likely just means that you're not particularly sensitive to cadence. Other people prefer to keep their cadence in a more narrow range, and telling them that they "need" what fits their preferences is a bit "fresh". It's a bit like telling someone that likes 175mm cranks that they don't need 175mm cranks and that 165mm cranks work just fine.....'cuz that's what you like. I'm not sure when RU-vid bike personalities developed the ability to determine exactly what someone else needs or prefers. I guess that's a power that you develop when you don't listen or when you assume. I guess one of the take-home points is that people should confuse their own preferences for what others need or should prefer.
Flat mount is an open standard by Shimano, just like centerlock, SRAM's UDH and i think T47. So that doesn't have anything to do with why the brakes have to use that weird adapter.
Nice Luke. Nothing fatal here. Yes, I would go 11 speed as well, probably 1x too. I suspect corrosion issues will be sorted on production sets. BTW, one can't 'forge' carbon fibre, unless they mean they are forgeries lol.
I've had the problem like you have with shifting but on SRAM 1X 12 speed. the only way I could get it to work was to either cable tie or lock wire 2 of the derailleur spring coils together IE making the spring stronger - still working perfect to this day. give it a try......
Hey Luke, L-Twoo told me that the 11x levers are compatible wit Shimano Derailleurs. So you can significantly improve the shifting by switching the derailleurs.
Well gentlemen, make sure you take a page off of L-Twoo's book and choose a decent quality rubber as well if you wanna have enough money for bike parts.
I’m not so sure I buy your theory behind Shimano not having a 12-speed mechanical road group - only because they have a full line of 12-speed mechanical mountain bike groups. I have had 12-speed SRAM and Shimano mountain bike groups, and both were great. Actually, the SRAM group I found to be super picky about adjustment, while I literally found my XT derailleur loose by a couple turns and it still worked great.
For corrosion, Muc Off make an excellent corrosion inhibitor, HC B-1. As for 12 speed, having experienced both Shimano and SRAM, I find it disappointing in the way it shifts. Meanwhile a 30 year old 8 speed groupset has been the most forgiving thing I own...
I planned on building new gravel bike. And there is some rumor of 12 speed GRX mechanical group set. I guess I am gonna stick to tiagra / GRX 400 10 speed hydraulic for better reliability and durability. Heck, I think I am not gonna move to 11 speed in a couple of years. 10 speed 48 -32 with 11 36 is very much my go to gear from now on.
The problem with this "cheap" set is: Shimano gives you cranks and chain+cassette at a very competitive price. Once you add it up, price difference isnt so pronounced. Also, weight difference kinda dissapears. Despite Shimano is aluminium.
I agree, sort of. Things are not always straightforward and the buyer needs to be canny: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IgfcaWE7Nb8.html
Well, for the crankset I would always buy something used with a (best case) spider Powermeter or a simple Ultegra/105 crankset and a Stages/4iiii left power meter crank. @Trace Velo Are the Shimano based Stages/4iiii left sided power meter cranks compatible with Sensaticx-Cranksets? This would be phenomenal.
@@veganpotterthevegan whether or not the weight difference is sizable or not depends on your point of view. My bike and I come in at just over 100kg. A 500g saving on a groupset is about half a percent of the total mass. Half of percent is probably significant for a serious racer (pro) but for your average rider like me it's really neither here nor there. That said if somebody wants to spend that money on it, who am I to say otherwise.
@Five Minute Velo that weight difference is big when we're talking groupos. Plus you have the fact that this happens to be a lot cheaper while being lighter. That's atypical in the market.
Luke great review, do you know does the 11 speed hydro L TWOO operate Shimano standard? So for example I keep my R7000 mechs but upgrade to their hydro brakes and levers? As I currently run TRP SLR caliper a that are now needing replacing
I don't really understand why 12 speed is so much better than 11 or 10 for most normal riders. But then as a confirmed luddite I 'only' have mechanical 11 speed so what do I know?
Hi, Luke. Im planning to buy this groupset from ltwoo official shop. would you still recommend this or should i spend the extra cash for a shimano 105? thank you
Fresh 🧅🧅🧅 and 🥖 After i tried campagnolo ekar i agree with keeping 11 speed mechanical on road/gravel bikes however I have 12 speed mtb mechanical Shimano groupset and its fantastic, so maybe it is all about pull ratio.
you can get a complete proper 105 groupset for £440 at wiggle/CRC. 12 speed on MTB's have the same issue with indexing. Stuck with 11sp for that reason (also the cost lol). Can those LTWOO calipers fit on post mounts? if so that would be a great upgrade for cheaper bikes.
Are there any signs of 12 speed or electronic rim brake group sets coming through? Are the smaller group-set manufacturers just going to continue focusing on trying to compete with the latest Shimano and Sram group-sets? I can understand if there is no market for rim brakes bikes now which is a pity. Of the two disk brake, hydraulic and mechanical brake sets I’ve owned I’ve found them to be an unreliable and fiddly nightmare in terms of braking performance and servicing riding in south wales.
Have you got your hands on the electronic ltwoo groupset to test yet? I'm thinking of getting one for my cx bike and running it 11 speed. But there are no reviews on it yet
Yes right I agree...it's the 12-speed arms race that's frustrating...go for the 11-speed mechanical so the indexing isn't so sensitive. 2 x 11 is absolutely fine gearing wise, even with a wide range 11 - 34 as they keep the jumps small down at business end of the cassette. Also good luck with going full-time on the channel...the videos are superb and you've nearly cracked 100k subscribers. Live long and prosper, chief.
Thanks Simon, yeah totally with you. 12 speed on electronic groupsets make sense, on mechanical it's a bit of a marketing gimmick. It can work, and I actually tuned the shifting up a little more after editing this video, so it is pretty much perfect, but it's just so finicky. 11 speed is still where it's at for mechanical groupsets!
It also locks you out of certain gear ranges too if you are on an HG freehub, for Gravel basically it's 50T+ cassette mullet or nothing. I almost made this mistake I had The GRT in the basket, then went looking for a 12 speed HG 11-40 and they don't exist! Ironically having the 1 extra gear would have given me 2 less usable gears.
@@TraceVelo For the crankset I would always buy something used with a (best case) spider Powermeter or a simple Ultegra/105 crankset and a Stages/4iiii left power meter crank. @Trace Velo Are the Shimano based Stages/4iiii left sided power meter cranks compatible with Sensaticx-Cranksets, like the included PR4 crankset from them? This would be phenomenal. From the pictures, it looks very Shimano like. What inner bottom bracket do they actually use in this shimano styled crankset, because they also have real SRAM dub cranksets as I've seen.
@@DanikoLPThat's good timing. I was just servicing my PR4 and happened to have a new Ultegra crank nearby (waiting for a frame to go in) I checked and the arm does fit on the PR4. I put one on my gravel bike during the "parts shortage" (over 16000km on it so far no issues) It uses a standard 24mm spindle the BB I'm running a Hope BSA (road). The PR4 is a little heavy, in many ways its a bit like an old Shimano MTB crank with a narrow Q-Factor, but I see no reason to swap it out for the GRX I originally wanted unless it fails or wears out. By that time I might actually be able to buy a GRX in 165!
I think the corrosion might have to do with galvanic corrosion due to brake dust from the pads. The pads have different metals in them as compared to the nut. When these differently charged metals come into contact an electrochemical process starts, causing the corrosion. This will be accelerated by the presence of salt, acting as a good electronic and ionic conductor.
Also, Shimano paints the bolts and the nuts above the threads as well. Road salt would explain it being on downward side and simply a mild coating that was easily affected. I live by saltwater so galvanic corrosion is a daily condition.
It will be galvanic corrosion from the difference in metals between the calliper and the bolt. One will be steel and the other aluminium. The zinc coating on the bolt will be the sacrificial material. The callipers would dissolve if not.
Couldn't agree more on the 11 speed spec. I can't justify the jump to 12. Also appreciated the look inside the caliper to show the guts. Keep up the great videos 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
@Tracevelo - Brillant videos and work, love the format of your videos and the RU-vid comments from the community also very valuable. Having read near most on this video, it seems to me that: a)divided opinions on need for 12 speed need be investigated in further videos, but I think it should be 10 x 2 vs 11 x 2 vs 12 x1 where the 12 x 1 use a casette like 9-46(xdr drive). ...and b) 12 speed being finicky on the l-twoo shifters to be explored further as good comment suggestions include use of special 12 speed campagnolo cables and use of shimano grx derailleur and caliper.
Trace Velo is definitely up there as one of RU-vid's go-to cycling channels, with all the quality reviews and builds Luke has put up in his videos through the years. Definitely, I would be one to vouch for the knowledge I gained from watching these quirky vids that entertain me so much. No matter what happens Luke, we'll always be here to leave baguettes in the comment section in every upload. 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
Hey Luke, it's really touching how upfront you were about whats a stressful move away from 'regular employment'. The community has always admired your willingness to take risks and impart the knowledge (good or bad) that comes with the well documented experience you publish. Congratulations again for following what you believe in🥖❤
70mm spacing on the calipers is super weird... that makes it (almost?) impossible to use on postmount frames, which is really unfortunate for gravel conversions using mtb frames for example.
🥖🥖🥖 well done another great video. I do hope your further adventures into the realms of RU-vid stardom plays out well. Like you, I too, was a bit nervous about hydraulic plumbing. But recently I bought an e-bike with the brakes the opposite way around to the BS Standard - that is rear on the right. I decided to swap the hydraulic lines over to get the front brake on the right lever. Now i was expecting to have to bleed the system and I bought all the stuff ready to do that. However, I just unscrewed the hydraulic lines and swapped them over. When I took the hydraulic lines out of a few drops of oil we lost. However once I reassembled the line into the opposite leavers, the whole system worked without any additional bleeding or adjustments. Not nearly as scary as I was expecting.
I've heard you can swap in the r7000 rear derailleur, but I've not tried it myself. Mixing and matching groupsets is a complete minefield, especially with these new 12 speed variants...
@@TraceVelo Thanks, I would love to know if they're worth a swap or not. I currently have rear and front R8000 derailleurs with Sensah Teampro Shifters. I would love to upgrade to Hydraulics as I'm currently using cable actuated disc brakes.
This mimics my experience with the GRT very well. It's very finicky in the harder gears, especially the second hardest. I actually found it worked best with a Sram 12 speed road cassette, a Rival XPLR 10-44, than Shimano spaced 12 speed road (Sram is spaced ever so slightly wider). Keeping portions of the cable that are bare against the plastic/resin of the shifter and derailleur a little lubricated and clean really helps with those downshifts in the harder gears. What's causing the lazy shifting is that the shifter releases the cable fully but resistance along the cable's path, and a lack of strong enough spring tension in the derailleur's lateral movement, keep the cable from being pulled all the way immediately at the derailleur end when there is less cable tension. As you found, keeping tight turns out of the cable housing really helps. I think if L-Twoo just had a stronger spring pulling the derailleur outboard (thus putting more static tension on the cable and pulling on it more strongly from downshifts), the problem would go away and the shifting would be crisp all the way down the cassette. As a point of interest, I'm currently running the shifters with a GRX 810-series rear derailleur, and this has improved the downshift quality immensely. The L-Twoo RX, GRT, and R9 shifters all pull the same cable ratio as Shimano Road 11-speed derailleurs, so it's all full interchangeable :) edited to add: pull the shifter hood cover back and watch the exposed bit of cable as you downshift; you can see it doesn't pull all the way at lower cable tension/harder gears and takes a second to let all the way out
Yes its a parallelogram spring tension issue. 20 year old shimano have this issue with the spring weakening, ltwoo must be using the worse quality spring steel so I think my shifting will get much worse. I'm going to try to tie up 2 or 3 coils to increase the tension with some kevlar thread I have. The high gear limit screw also fouls if you screw it in too far.
Interesting.. would have guessed they use sram road pull ratio like Sensah does. Does it shift as well as all GRX now? My Sensah RD gave up on me after a year and I’m running a sram apex one with Sensah shifters. (But the breaking suuuucks)
Thanks @vixxenMTB . Are you basically using L-twoo 12 speed shifters with shimano GRX 11 speed derailleur? Am trying to establish if the pull ration of L-twoo 12 speed shifter is same as shimano 11 speed grx shifter! By the way, this mean lots of upgrade possible, could imagine buying only the l-twoo shifters and buying dérailleurs and calipers from Shimano.
@@MoiseCoulon17 that's actually exactly what's on my main bike, now! Just the L-twoo shifters, a Shimano GRX-RX812 11 speed RD, and Shimano flat mount brake calipers. The L-Twoo brake calipers are fine, just sort of heavy and inelegant with the adapters
@@vixxenMTB Brilliant. For cable pull of the L-twoo 12 speed road shifter, I am trying to work out if it will be the same as the miroshift 12 speed bar-end shifters BS-SR-M12-R which seem to be the only mechanical bar-end shifters for 12 speed in the market. The BS-SR-M12-R are compatible with "SRAM MTB 12 Speed X-Actuation" and I found it (in a forum only) it was likely to be 3.48mm cable pull for that. Another clue ios that L-TWOO also makes MTB 12 speed shifters and all advertised as 1:1 ratio (whcih does not mean much) like SRAM so there is a possibility the L-TWOO 12 speed shifters (road and MTB) will have the same cable pull as the BS-SR-M12-R shifters an the SRAM MTB 12 speed shifters. Anyone knows cable pull (in mm) for the L-TWOO 12 speed ?
🥖🥖🥖 Top Quality video as always Luke!! 🥖🥖🥖 Belated congratulations on going full time! Love your honest and upfront opinions on the alternative options offered in cycling hardware etc Really refreshing and greatly appreciated. Now you're full time, will there be any new additions to your content?
Now I feel bad for never sending a message of support so here goes... You are great!!! For next projects, think about doing crazy hack things like pairing a cues derailleur with road shifters and stuff.
I got the LTwoo RX 12 and I am not happy with shifting, often noisy and not precise. Can I continue use the RX shifters and then install an Ultegra 11speed derailleur with 11 cassett, will it work together?
Keep up.the good work Luke 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖 and I do wonder when the electronic Chinese groupsets will come out 🤔 I would love to build a bike but I'm a chicken 😂😂 to buy some random Chinese bike frame
The shifting issues are almost certainly caused by the offset upper pulley wheel on the derailleur. In the big ring the pulley wheel is further away from the cassette causing sluggy shifting in the smaller cogs of the cassette. If you look at 2x derailleurs from SRAM and Shimano, they usually have a pulley wheel move with the cage pivot so the B-gap remains the same in the small and big ring.
This, usually you would see an offset pulley on a 1x derailleur with a more horizontal derailleur cage path, definitely a way for ltwoo to get away with the same derailleur for both 1x and 2x
You're doing a great job, I don't even ride road bikes. I watch because I find you entertaining. I ride mountain bikes but I like to keep up to date on things in the cycling industry and you fit the bill perfectly. 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖
I've been running Shimano 12s mechanical on my two mountain bikes for a couple of years now, including the incredibly brutal Convict 100 XC marathon last month. NO issues at all with inconsistent shifting - I never have to adjust it, ever. So I think the comments on the reason why Shimano went all-electronic are speculative. I will say that the old-school cable routing used on L-Twoo is a pain in the ass with collecting grit and contamination in wet conditions and is a deal-killer for me, as replacing the cable outer down there after every wet ride is going to get old real fast. i'm glad to have gotten rid of my last bike with that system a few months ago. I much prefer the "Shadow+" routing that Shimano now uses, which uses gravity to minimise the amount of contamination that accumulates down there and messes with your shifting. Also less prone to having wear n the pivios affect shifting accuracy.
