This is not a instructional video. Get proper training before working with hydraulics. @patduch636 hope this answers your question The stuff I use and contact info. direct.me/funk...
I have never worked on hydraulic hose, i do not plan to. I watched your entire video for absolutely no reason and now i have more useless trade knowledge. thank you, i learned all my best skills out the back of a van.
You'd be a great teacher. Where I went to school we had Manufacturing Engineering Tech prep. I had a great teacher. Seriously man if ever you are given the opportunity you should teach your craft. You have a relatable demeanor. You explain things with common sense. Most importantly your humor could captivate the attention of a teenage male audience. Seriously I think the world would be blessed if you were a teacher even part time at a vocational school. Hope you consider it if given the chance. As always rock solid content dude.
I drive forklift at the warehouse damn near all day. Your Videos occasionally cover crap that I work with. It's nice to see some it. I Ain't gonna repair that stuff. I've seen how some guys abuse the equipment. You sir are a National Hero
Hardly anyone knows the size of the hoses correlating to the #4/#6 etc. I've been working with hydraulics for over 15 years, and you're basically the only other one that I've seen explain it that way.
I'm about to graduate from tech school and work for an equipment shop that works on skid steers, telehandlers, tractors and more so this will definitely help out. Nice vid man👌
Only part way into it, and I appreciate the sharing of knowledge. Very nice for up and coming people in the industry. Some random bits that are good to know for the new guys: JIC are all SAE fine thread, so if you have buggered threads you can chase them like a bolt. The "dash size" is how many sixteenth of an inch the hose ID is, so -2 is 1/8" ID, -6 is 3/8" ID, and so on. Parker and some other companies make "seal savers", which are copper cones that go on the flare to prevent galling when you really crank them down. You'll most often run into AN/JIC (ANs are Army/Navy spec JIC fitting, usually made out of aluminum), ORB (O-ring boss), ORFS (O-ring face seal), NPT (which sucks imo since there's always a leakage path, hence the need for thread sealant), BSP (British standard pipe), and BSPT (British standard pipe thread).
I work on race car equipment every day, we use AN fittings and hose which is very similar to JIC (both SAE 37° Flare) I’m glad you know that the dash sizes are the number over sixteenths. not many people know that! I’ve built fuel lines, hydraulic power steering lines, oil lines, brake lines, etc.. using AN and NPT and ORB and even some metric 😬 fittings! Good video!
Love the long format! I teach Chem and Engineering to high school kids. I try to make sure they leave the class with "Don't make this stupid mistake and end up dead" knowledge. That stuff is always missing from the textbooks for some reason. Would love to see more from you on that. (I already use some of your life hack safety reviews.)
Thank you for the video! My old boss taught me how to make hydraulic hoses, but he never went too much into the technical data. I just got my self a cimper for my service truck and I’m glad I found this video, learned a lot
Too cool for grade school. Your skill, education and ability is rare. Great job sharing. Speaking of “whacking with the file” I release the die load slightly and rotate the fitting to a high spot to a die face and crimp again. That removes the burrs and saves me time.
I’m a transport mechanic. We use gates hoses and the PC 707 crimper. Gates products are really well made (Parker makes great stuff too) but gates has an app (e crimp) which gives you a lot of great crimping data. It’s very helpful to learn from. Thanks for the awesome video bro!
As someone who works with a lot of tractors, hydraulic lines are one of those constants in my life I'm always having to deal with. Sometimes they're a breeze to fix. Just got to unscrew the line, bring it into town, then reattach the replacement. Other times though... They're one of those hard to reach types. Whether it's crawling into a tight space, not having enough room to twist the wrench, or hanging upside down while hot oil dribbles down your arm. It's a job though, and it's gotta get done.
Yep, I don't know how many knuckles I have knocked the hide off of in those hard to reach spots between cab and transmission! Even worse is down the inside of frame rails on dozers. That is where the prickly pear and mesquite thorns hide! 😂
I am the equipment mechanic, building maintenance person, and all around fix-it person at an automotive salvage yard. I fix everything from the big wheel loaders and car crusher in the yard all the way down to the computers in the office. The crusher, loaders, and 4 forklifts all rely on hydraulics. And I kind of go back and forth on whether or not it would be worth it to start making my own hoses. One thing I've noticed about places that I go to for this stuff is whether or not the people making the hoses have ever worked on equipment that uses them or not. If they have, they're careful to make the hose exactly the same length, and they match the curve of it from the roll with the main curves of the original if there's angle fittings on the line. Why? Because when the hose is an inch or so longer, it can be really hard to get it into place. And when it wants to curve the wrong way, getting that stiff hose lined up correctly is a pain in the ass.
I am the equipment mechanic, building maintenance person, and all around fix-it person at an automotive salvage yard. I fix everything from the big wheel loaders and car crusher in the yard all the way down to the computers in the office. The crusher, loaders, and 4 forklifts all rely on hydraulics. And I kind of go back and forth on whether or not it would be worth it to start making my own hoses. One thing I've noticed about places that I go to for this stuff is whether or not the people making the hoses have ever worked on equipment that uses them or not. If they have, they're careful to make the hose exactly the same length, and they match the curve of it from the roll with the main curves of the original if there's angle fittings on the line. Why? Because when the hose is an inch or so longer, it can be really hard to get it into place. And when it wants to curve the wrong way, getting that stiff hose lined up correctly is a pain in the ass.
I’ve replaced quite a few hydraulic fittings in my day. I learned a few things here and we used the same Parker crimping machine. My current job has no hydraulics. Thanks all the same.
Thanks for that, I work with a large variety of hydraulic fittings to calibrate pressure gauges, the explanation on why we use tape to seal tapered fittings is very helpful. I didn’t notice you mention BSP fittings, perhaps they are less popular in America or maybe I just missed it
I love the simplicity of your crimping machine, I live in the UK and we tend to used two piece fittings and adjust a dial to the hose size. Its handy if you dont have the correct fitting, you cut the ferrule off the old hose and pull the fitting, pop on a new ferrule and you are in business. Then there is the range of fittings you come up against, BSPP, BSPT, Metric, JIC, ORFS, Boss. Fitting a quick hitch valve tomorrow, the 4 ports have different sizes and types on the old valve and all 1/4 bsp on the new one. Oh joy!
Really good vid, You’ll find most places wont re end hoses because every manufacturer’s hose is designed for specific fittings and matching dies. Its a material and tolerance thing, as others have said, its for a reason, lucky = leak, unlucky = hoses blowing out of fittings and associated disaster.
i prefer the gates machines and megacrimp fittings. no spacer discs . you can set how tight you crimp it with the digital readout .very versatile for crimping different brands of hoses.
We’ve had a hose crimp and all the accessories in the service truck for several years but no one knows how to use it. I finally pulled it out are started looking at the hose fitting chart and crimped my first hose about two months ago. Honestly I was like, what was so fuckin hard about that. I’ve made up maybe 10 hoses now. This video really helps with the finer points. Thank you very much!
I’m a pretty shit DIY guy and everything I touch usually ends up worse than it started, so I like watching your videos as it gives me hope that I’ll learn one day. Would be great to see more of these type of videos and/or random work stuff. Keep up the good work.
You did a great job . The size explanation was spot on . The flat seal fittings are touchy . They go on how many flats to tighten . Really enjoyed the presentation.
One trick I was always taught in seating the fitting: give a slight twist and if you feel the resistance of the braid, you know that you’re in. I always enjoy your content, and as someone who makes hoses somewhat regularly, I appreciate all of the insight!
great video, thanks man! You're a real likable guy too, interesting to listen to. You don't waffle useless stuff just speak sense. Happy to buy you a beer if you end up in NZ.. cheers 👍
I like JIC cause it'll usually give you that little extra to tighten down if it's leaking. Once ORFS starts leaking, you really can't stop it unless it's just from being lose. I'm biased towards ORFS just because that's the majority of what I deal with at the dealership I work for.
Great content for mechanics and Maintenance guys, well done, make more !!!! Show us a cylinder rebuild! Better yet make yourself a parker rep ! You would get more sales then most reps do when they visit plants !! Lol I would love to see a no BS sales rep presentation!
@@FunkFPV Ya know, that ain't a bad idea. I don't know what Parker reps pull down, but something taking advantage of your celebrity a little bit, never know might find something lucrative that you still like doing?
I've always used a company qualified and insured and it sure paid off when we had a bad hose on a case 580 on the campus in one of the main pedestrian ways. Just a drip but still unacceptable so I went to a great company in Mesa AZ (multi equip dealer, good guys) and they made us one and we installed and it blew out the fitting and leaked 10 gal hyd oil all over. When we took it back a Goodyear rep happened to come in and saw the hose and checked the spu on the hose and it was on a notice of a bad lot and they had not been notified yet so Goodyear bought it all. Saved our asses. Pays to use a pro with the right stuff. Good videos, I enjoy these indepth and sane reviews. Be safe
Great Video... I'm sure there is some Guy out there teaching this stuff that eats fittings and shits crimped ends and you would have to have technical translator to understand he two hour long explanation which you just delivered so this ole boy understood in less that 10 minutes. If I had the space or at least a van I would love to be able to make my own hoses for the tractors on the farm. The real benefit would be able to make them the right length so they don't rub on anything unlike off the shelf pre fabbed ones
This was awesome info, thanks for that. You taught me a lot. If I ever find a inexpensive hydraulic press I will get one just to have it (Parker is far too rich for my blood). Cheaper than buying a hose. Mainly because I want to replace my hoses on my truck with serious overkill hoses lol
THIS CHANNEL, IVE HAVE LEARNED MORE WITH THEN I DID IN AVIATION MAINTENANCE SCHOOL. I HAVE A 70K A YEAR JOB INTERVIEW AT 1PM TODAY, IM NERVOUS SO IM STUDYING
I've got an eaton press that's pretty much identical to that one. Found it at an estate sale from some old timer who died, got it for $200, plus a bunch of extra stuff in the lot. Paid for itself with the first hose I made, though I'm certain I'd have gotten my money back tenfold by now even if I'd bought one at msrp.
I got a hydraulic clutch on my Suzuki 1400 intruder that just blew out, looks like I'll be learning more about hydraulics myself sooner than later, not exited
If you read the comment in the video it says he was told you need a different die for every brand of fitting not every style. That can be true depending on the style of crimper you have. With a positive stop crimper like you use in the video, it's only set for parker style fittings. If you were to crimp a couplamatic or weatherhead u series with it, the crimp would be too loose and would blow off. You must know the correct crimp spec for the hose and fitting you're putting together. If you vary the crimp or the hose o.d. you have to adjust accordingly.
Pipe dope and Teflon tape are only lubricants. They don’t seal anything. They help you get a good deal by lubricating the threads so they don’t expand from heat and leak after they cool down.
I don’t know anything about hydraulic hoses and the whole video I thought you were talking about dyes, like food dye. I was really curious how coloring was going to come into play. Feeling a bit dumb but at least I learned something
#5 hose and fittings, looking at you Raymond……. Nice crimp! We use Parker #43 fittings and 487TC hose. Sometimes run into the non-conductive hose and that we only buy OEM. Occasionally see paired hose, I keep a few of those on the shelf ready to go.
Hello fellow lefty.... markers.... the Bain of our existence....lol.... also people orientation of your fittings is a must. Hydraulic hose doesn't twist to your will.....
As a quality engineer I can tell you they all have their uses in different situations. It doesn't always make sense, but it's for a reason. Usually to save money. Hah.
@funkfpv you need to take an apprentice on. Being responsible for annother employee is a big pain/expensive and a liability but also an opportunity to grow and do more work.
Back in the day when the rocks were soft and the dinosaurs werent quite ready yet i worked at a deep stock auto parts warehouse (I belive these have since gone extinct) and we caried gates and parker, the dies are slightly different. Its not common to have multiple brands in the same environment so i cant see where mixing dies should ever be a problem. Not to throw shade on forklift guys but i swear not once did we ever make a lift hose that was the right size. Its like they get streached or something and they always ended up an inch or two too long. For some bizare reason, no one could ever find the manufactures spec for how long those hoses are supposed to be so we just had to match them. Gates has a branded die grease and i swear no one else in the whole place had any clue you have to lube a die, burned up 2 pumps in the decade i was there.
I’ve had to make thousands of hydraulic hoses over the years, I had the same style of crimp press in my shop but mine was made by Gates. Good times man I love this shit!
Is there a more portable hand held version of your crimping tool one that if you wanted to crimp a new fitting to a line on a lift you could without removing the hose completely
The problem is in the hydraulic industry, although there are standards, its the wild west. If your an electrician your not going to see a huge difference from brand to brand, in hydraulics everyone has invented the wheel in their own way. The standards are often seen as minimum standards, so you'll often see meets or exceeds such as "Exceeds SAE J 517 (SAE 100R@AT)" so if every company can meet or exceed the standard then you typically do not have equivalent products. Its like a wrench, everyone makes a 7/8ths wrench but they are not all the same. 100R2AT is the standard for a typical 2 wire (2 braids) hose, the pressure starts ~ 5,743 psi at -04 and by the time your making a -32 your looking at ~1,494 psi. If you have a parker crimper they supply you a limited amount of dies that are color coded, there is typically a chart that will tell you what crimp spec those dies crimp to. In our shop we can use the same die for several different types of hoses and ferrules and we make adjustments to the crimper to get our crimps within .1mm measured with a set of calipers. We have instanced where 1 hose can use multiple kinds of fittings, for example a 5,000 psi 5/8 hose that can use a lighter series of ferrule but requires the hose be skived (outer cover removed with a blade, a hacksaw, or a skiving tool) or you can use a higher series of ferrule that will fit over the cover. So picture that you have a few series of 5/8 hoses. A 1 wire, a 2 wire, a high temp 2 wire, a compact high pressure 2 wire, a 2 wire spiral, a 4 wire spiral etc etc theres a lot of applications out there. Well maybe your A series ferrule can crimp onto the 1 wire, 2 wire, high temp 2 wire, compact 2 wire, and if you skive it the 2 wire spiral. Then you have your B series ferrule which can crimp onto your compact, 2 wire spiral, and 4 wire spiral but it can't crimp onto your 1 wire, 2 wire, or high temp 2 wire. Compare that to your 1/2 hose where your A series can crimp the full range, but the b series only crimps the largest 2 sizes. The point is there is variation throughout. Theres also 2 piece fittings where the ferrule isn't pre crimped to the hose tail. If you're company has done the proper testing you may have 4-5 different methods of crimping a fitting to your 350 Bar 1/2 Hose. Some companies use an interlock fitting which may require an outer skive and an inner skive ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EJb7HNlkXlc.html is a good example of the use of an internal and external skiving tool. Basically long story short every brand does require a different crimp specification, so if your using a crimper like the parker set up with color coded dies then you are risking having the end of your hose blow off. If you have an adjustable crimper it is still inadvisable to mix and match products because you won't know the proper crimp specification, however we have instances where our mother company will invest the resources to have X brand ferrule series Y tested to work with Hose Z and then they will provide us with a crimp spec that can be trusted because we know its been tested for so many impulses, so much pressure, had so much force pulling on it etc. We refuse to sell customers hose or fittings separately, we do not provide re-ends on hydraulic hoses, we won't crimp your fitting on our hose or ours onto yours. If someone comes in with a Gates hose and needs a fitting put on but can't/won't pay for a full assembly I'd gladly refer them to the local gates dealer, or parker, eaton, manulli, whomever it is. Safety's not an accident.
I think what he might have ment was u-series (weatherhead) vs z-series (gates) requiring different dies even if there the same size. That's just a matter deciding what brand hydraulic fittings you want to go with.
