the good thing about these tools is that they seem to all be exactly the same inside, so this is a really good reference video for working on and maintaining these things.
In case anyone was curious why so many restorers bother to strip the paint off before media blasting, My Mechanic actually mentioned in the subtitles on one of his videos that he does this so that excessive paint doesn't get into his blast media and contaminates it. It makes it last longer before needing to be replaced if there's less paint getting in it.
Very nicely done sir. I especially enjoyed the use of the plastic binder to keep pieces in place until you could get the end on. It looks like you made a good job of it over all and it does work well. Those blades were definitely made to handle so heavy duty re-bar and may have to be manufactured to fit right. Thanks for sharing 😁🐕🇨🇱🇺🇸
Sandblasting is so satisfying to watch without having to hear it. I wish my cable provider had a sandblasting channel, then there would be a reason to have cable.
I have a confession to make … I’ve been watching your videos for about 6 months and just now realized I haven’t been subscribed this ENTIRE TIME I’m truly apologetic for my action since then I have now not only subscribed but also turned upload notifications 👍🏽
19:55 Be very careful with residues from some types of Loctite near any plastics. Some compounds will slowly invade many plastics and destroy their structure from within. They make several plastic-safe thread-lockers for use near plastics and poly-carbonates.
Definitely one of the better restoration videos. Excellent work! Look forwards to seeing it cut once you find the blades. You may have to make those yourself...
Very nice job, especially because you used the Hitachi Impact Driver to unlock the exagonal screw, so you used a tool that you repaired and i'm convinced that you'll use even this hydraulic rebar cutter. Super!!! Greatings from Italy, friend
Nice job, beautiful work. Just wondering how many of those 500k views actually knew what a pain in the ass rebar is to cut? Would have loved to have one of these in my working days.
1. He has all the right sizes. 2. These bolts where installed when it was made then never touched since, not hard to believe that he was able to undo them all
sorunu anlıyorum ama demir kestiğini görmemek kötü oldu. oraya kadar her şey iyiydi. bıçaklar yapılamaz mıydı? bir fırın ve uygun ölçülerde biraz sert çelik...
Hi at 25.29 can i know what type of hydraulic oil did u use? I hv one n its states "M" on the oil nut. But im not sure wat type to use. Can u pls advice?
These things can be several thousand USD new. Many of the cordless ones will only operate for a certain amount of cycles before a logic lock is engaged and it has to be shipped back to the factory to be rebuilt at a considerable expense.
Simple solution is to take the difference in width and divide it by 2 then get steel plates the same size as the cutting plates and put these on first either side.
18:55 why is the roller bearing spring loaded? Is it some kind of centering? the 3 springs in the jaws are housed in bushings and im not sure why that is needed either...
20:42 The driver pin is offcenter. By design not supposed to spin around its own center this does create some "hammer effect" somewhere within the device. The springs is to allow this movement to continue and the bearings purpose is to stabilize this movement it can move in a circle but not "up and down". didnt really pay attention to the whole procedure
The 3 spring you are referring to if I'm correct are the pump assembly, the there are 2 sets of spring within those cylinders, along with a pair of plates and a rubber seal, zip ties it to make reassembly easier. The fitting you see on the armature will give you an idea of why it sits on springs. Armature only moves along its axis, the shape makes it alternate between the 3 pumps. These are what move the fluid through tiny orifices into the upper chamber
Quick query mate, how olds the machine? just wondering as that gasket (edit: the original gasket) looked like it may have been made from Asbestos? Hope not. Otherwise very nice work :-) I need to find an excuse to get one of those.
I was wondering the same thing… and I'm slightly worried it might have been lead paint, but that's going to be hard to test for after sand blasting (😱)
I was also thinking that looked an awful lot like Asbestos so much so that ied treat it as if it was just to be on the safe side, that said I can’t think why they would use asbestos in this thing as they tend to only use it on items that are around heat or fire.
A question for you, if you dont mind. When you were checking the motor housing, how come you had the meter set to ohms? I thought you were checking continuity, yet it was set for resistance. Would you mind explaining this for me? As i dont understand if you doing something beyond my understanding. Thank you.
me when I open one of these things: "Where the hell do you get a gasket for these?" this guy when he opens one of these things: "Just make a new gasket."
I was trying to repair one of these recently, it kept leaking out the front around the piston after it finished the cycle. Changed all the seals and the front 1 twice. Anyone got any ideas? Pressure relief seemed to be working fine, piston would not return all the way. I managed to get my hands on the right cutters through eBay.
You would risk to bend the cylinder or housing if the cutting blades are too far apart, as the rebar would be bent and the resulting forces would not be in the right direction that the tool is designed for.
I doubt that a 3D printed fan will last long. 3D printing is nice for prototyping but not for parts that are under heavy load. With such thin walls it won't withstand the rotanional force of the spinning motor at all and will likely explode after a while.
If he printed it in the right plastic, like ASA or Nylon, and at the right temperature to minimize the chance for delamination, it could still be a very strong part that holds up for years. If it's just PLA, then i agree, that stuff is way to brittle for an application like this. You could even get the design laser sintered in PA-12 or other engineering grade plastics at a print service company, if you need something stronger. the nice thing about 3D printing, it's easy to make a replacement part, if it really breaks again. Still not that quick to take the tool apart and replace it here tho.
