Regarding the 6nm vs 12nm filters: Sony has a Bright Monitoring feature, which takes 1-second exposures in Live-view, allowing you to see stars for focusing. I believe this feature will work with 6nm filters, and I'm considering buying one. Additionally, you can use an old technique that all cameras have - just take a shot at the highest ISO, check the result, adjust the focus, and take another shot and so on, until sharp stars :)
Thanks for this video. It vindicates a choice I made to go with the normal 12nm Ha filter from Astronomik when imaging ar f/2. As others including Cuiv have shown you don't know without a spectrometer how well a filter is performing even if pre-shifted, and depending on your type of optics-camera or SCT the amount of light hitting the filter at too wide an angle merely effectively reduces transmission even more. This gets more worrisome at 6nm or 3nm. Cheers, Steve
I almost spit my food out when you said how much these filters cost... I'm very curious what the justification is for such an astronomical price point.
I was just going to comment this....hahaha please Kamil show is how you integrate the images in post. I'm also thinking about buying the cheaper one...also I don't have a modded camera. Should I pull the trigger?
I have this filter (regular one, not Max-FR), and I am using it with an H-alpha modified Sony A7 III. I find it very difficult to separate the H-alpha signal from other light. For example, the entire Milky Way core is much brighter than SH2-27. I have to use brushes in Adobe Photoshop to paint off the non-H-alpha signal. Kamil, do you know a better technique other than using brushes?
Hi Kamil. Thank you for the video. I am learning about astro and wanting to understand. Are you using these filters on a H modified camera, or stock camera? I am curious if I would get this result on a stock Canon shooting an RGB pass, then adding the 12nm filter to shoot the H alpha pass? Also, I am curious how much of a pain it is to add the clip in in the dark and reset focus and keep alignment. I wonder if the 12nm filter can be added into a drop in filter ring in between the sensor and lens and still get great results. Thanks!
Astronomik filters are good for its price. The only gripe I have is that they collect a lot of dust out of the box. Even after a thorough cleaning with IPA and microfiber cloth, I was unable to remove find dust on the surface.
As always awesome video Kamil! thanks for all the valuable information! I have an unmodded camera and are more into deepsky this year....I'm craving that amazing HA emission in my images...😢😅 Also, i live in the southern hemisphere, we have amazing skies but polar alignment is way harder and I'm not being able to use my tracker in all it's potential, what do you suggest? I really don't want to spend this money if not totally worth it. Thanks in advance
Yeah like I said under another comment of your here, check out this video so you can see what you can expect: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YM5T72vg2MA.html
Thanks for the video, Kamil. Very straight foward. I know it is not the point here, but could you tell something about the difference between the luminance filter L1 and L2 from Astronomik? Thanks again.
Thanks for the videio but I have the Astronomik H-Alpha for my Nikon D810. It's a pain in the a^^ to put in and remove. Won't be buying any Astronomik filters again. The optolong filters I have work and fit great.
Hi Kamil, another great video! 1. What clip-in filter would you recommend for Full Spectrum modified camera (Nikon Z6) to get the Ha or best results for Milky Way shots? 2. How do you get rid of red cast from the photo, but leave it only where it's required, the nebulae? Cheers mate👍🏼
For a full spectrum mod you’d need two filters: an IR/UV-cut for your RGB photos and an Ha for the hydrogen data. Then you need to add the Ha data to the red channel of the RGB image. There are a bunch of videos on youtube on how to merge it like this
Would you be able to try this with a 20-stop ND filter and point it at the sun? I would like to use this with an RF 100-400 f/5.6-8. I'd like to use this with a 20-stop ND filter in the front and then point it at the sun.
Got it, thank you. The reason I ask is because I’ve been imaging with my Unmodded Canon 6D with a dual band filter and I’ve been pleased the results (pleasantly surprised).
Have you wver the tried the STC Duo Narrowband clip-in filter? I womder how it compares against the Astronomik filters, but I cant find much information about it online unfortunately. Would be interesting to know how they perform with wide focal lengths and fast apertures
@@kamilkp Awsome thank you! You don't sound very impressed about the filter though. I just ordered the 2" Svbony SV220 instead. Apparently it's supposed to be as good as the Optolong L-Extreme just for half the price. I read that some people use the L-Extreme as a front filter with step down rings on the Samyang 135mm f/2 lens. That's what I'm going to try with the Svbony SV220. The filter should reduce the aperture to about f/3.1, since the glas has a diameter of 44mm. Fingers crossed🤞
