I know this is an older post but I thought I would comment anyway. I've built my own 3D printer several years ago (not coreXY) and I did what most people did, printed a bunch of the parts. Over the past 5 years I have been replacing almost all of the printing parts, usually the brackets for holding the motors and anything connected to the bed. Anything that has even the slightest amount of pressure on it has bent, warped, and generally misshaped all the of the 3D printed parts. For the replacements I've just purchased angled L extruded aluminum for my local hardware store. Cheap and easy, just drill a few holes, cut into smaller pieces, and you have long lasting parts that do not flex like the plastic printed parts.
Liking the stylish build and colour scheme of black & yellow. Wish I'd bought black 2020. I was building a Hypercube by Tech2C but now I may build this version instead if the BOM's don't vary too much in the 'vitamins' hardware Ive already bought. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Scott, thank you for the great videos! People seem to agree double supported Z axis is stable and the bestway to go. But actually nobody compared the print result with one and two supports. Since you (will) have the both versions, it would be great if you can compare the results. Thanks again!
No reflection on your excellent build but I think I will redesign the upper rail mounts so that they are one piece thereby guaranteeing the two rails will be spaced correctly. I will do the same with the bottom mounts while also combining the stepper motor mount with them. This should make assembly and alignment much easier.
Your Z axis has 8 bearings on it, but your BOM on Thingsverse only shows 4? I'm guessing that's only if you build the single version... So maybe it would be a good idea to to clarify that in the Linear Bearings section of the BOM. (Would be even better if you had a separate BOM for each version!)
Don't forget to put something between the screws/springs and the heatbed. That's what those red cardboard washers are for. Eventually the metal parts will wear thru the bed and short out the PCB tracks and let the magic smoke out. IIRC this happened live on the CHEP review of the Anet A8.
highly doubt 220W is high ( that is when heating both up. normally it is only 150w or way less. ) 60w for hot end, 150w for bed, 10w for motors. my a8 running 2 month none stop, it's fine. (i check all connection regularly and i have IR camera to detect hotspot). if you build it right, build it smartly, it is a work horse. but still , given the price point, precaution is not what you should save .
your bed side bracket that rides on the Z axis screw appeared to flex as you were moving it up and down by hand, I am not sure if this was due to the screws holding it not tight enough or plastic is flexing. Just a small but important observation. I also build my own machines , have been building my own CNC machines for a long time and know small things like this can cause issues in final build and ultimately function. I'm currently building my own 3D Printer and like you I am using a cube style for the obvious additional rigidity . My first 3D printer was a mini frabirkator, great little machine, I bought for the solid square frame, and with some upgrades, I made hundreds of beautiful parts with it, solid frame being tiny and squared is one of the reasons. In fact I think the boxy frame is over designed , they could have used extrussion and allowed for a more roomier build, like on one of my modded machines which to this day still make great 3d parts. BTW I've used IGUS linear bearings, on some of my builds, they work great on some stuff, but you cannot place them on too tight of a clamp like block holder. Being that the inside lining bearing material is made from Delrin plastic, or a derivative of it, it is lighter than the metal one, obviously, and it will provide smooth travel but you need to have precide tolerance on the support part also. If your 3D printed parts that hold the plastic IGUS linear bearing are too tight, it will change the tolerance of the linear bearing, it will not travel smoothly, as compared to the metal linear bearing, more solid, which typically for the latter not be a problem, but a bit noisy. .
I have some doubts regarding the assembly of the hot bed when it comes to welding the wires. And with respect to the voltage of the ramps. Does this hot bed only accept 24V?
With the ability to change the tools in the carriage, do you think there would be any benefit to utilizing NEMA 23 motors for the axis? Just a thought for moving items needing more torque
hey can I mount a 220x220 or a 324x324 bed on a HEVO built for 300x300? they ran out of stuck for 300x300 and I have no idea when it'll be back in stock. in my country it can be never.... I already know I won't be able to use the extra 24mm and will use 80mm with the 220 but it's better than nothing for now
The L-brackets are mounted in two different ways. Some are concealed, some not. In my country I would have to buy two different kinds of them. Can you mount this L-brackets from China in both ways? If not, how many L-brackets I would need from this two types?
Leadscrews should not be fixed at the top. They are designed to be fixed only in one place giving it a small room for movement. Only the steel rods must be fixed on both ends, those should never move.
No end tapping really needed - the only place I see doing it would be for the feet - many ways you could get around that, but one tap and tap wrench is not that hard to get and use.
Scott 3D true cost wise it's not much. but the z axis doesn't travel with speed. if it was on the x or y where its constantly backwards and forwards with the weight swinging then it would be needed. but the z doesn't have any of that. all the nut does is push it to one side of the thread which it does anyway being vertical
Homing is mostly done in a very low speed. I don't see any situation where you have a very fast change of direction and don't have the time to wait until the gravity did its job. @Ross Sage: I am fully with you.
6 лет назад
i see there is no standardization,im received listed parts in excel but there is some missing parts .oh i hope i will draw my unique parts for working 3d printer.every hypercube video have difference.
Do you think that person without an engineering background can build this printer? It looks really an awesome printer! :) I'd like to build it to my boy, 7yo, he wants to be an engineer. :) Please, keep up this awesome work and videos! It's quite inspiring! :)
damn you didnt clude that extra beam in the middle of bed in the BoM sheet..... after all the work.....it is so hard to get a all-in-one sheet that has everything...
I am in the process of ordering parts to build one myself, and even with the configuration tool it is almost impossible to get everything purchased and printed in one shot. Frustrating, however it is a diy kit that Scott 3d and Tech2C have spent alot of time on. The configuration tool may be broken or the formulas are not built in for the dual z axis parts list as it is giving me those items when dual z axis or 10mm y is selected.
Could anyone give me the correct sizes for the 2020 extrusions with dual steppers. My supplier gave me 2@415mm and 1@ 393mm I know I should have 2 but oh well. Any help is much welcomed.
Jamie pla would be fine if you're not planning an enclosure. but then you're limiting your printer from an easy upgrade further down. easier just to go with petg from the start of you have it
