I have a Kia Soul with GDI and had a fuel problem. When driving it shutdown and I can restart it ,sometimes not. So is this a fuel pump fault or high pressure pump fault.
What a great video. I've been running my Sonata for a while with the check engine light on, knowing that my high pressure fuel pump was bad. After watching your video, I ordered one off Amazon. Not wanting to take any chances, I ordered and original Hyundai pump.....about $340. I replaced it on Friday afternoon. I kid you not, the whole process did not take 30 minutes. Check engine light is off, and she runs like a champ. Per your suggestion, I'm going to get the oil changed next week, and we are off to the races. I can't thank you enough for posting this informative video. Oh....dealership quoted me $1050 to replace. Ouch!!
Hi ... if you are inquiring about the connection with the orange plastic lock (the fuel intake to the GDI pump), that is a fairly common connection [disconnects by pulling the orange plastic UP ... not OFF ... so as to allow the fuel intake tubing to pull away from the metal flanged intake port]. Go to RU-vid at: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NTHnR3eEHQ4.html time 1:43 .... Parker Bengtzen does the disconnect in his video on an exceeding similar GDI pump.
Haven't had this issue with my Sonata as of yet but did get it from a dealer at 75K, she's at 160k right now so may change it just because. Thanks for the video!! Also, I would invest in a decent scan tool, you can purchase one through Amazon (or through a local auto store) in order to get codes as well as erase them too.
Another thing you should have done when changing the GDI pump is to likewise replace the high pressure tube that is connected to the GDI pump. That is according the the repair manual from Hyundai.
True, but as I noted in the SHOW MORE "Note: I replaced the GDI pump only, as compared to the "kit" that also includes the high-pressure fuel rail, because my local Hyundai parts guy said that their SOP for replacement was replacement of GDI pump only. "
I’m sorry that the video was not helpful for you. In order to try & keep a video from being drawn-out and tediously long, perhaps too much tendency to minimize the time of a video … to “keep it short & to the point”. Some may find the video too short … again, sorry. This “keep it short” tendency is perhaps a holdover from my earliest paid job. First “real world” job (1 week after graduating from high school) was working in the largest car assembly plant in the USA (at that time); at the plant, production was not just “slap it together” but also test and re-work ... and foremost “keep the line moving”.
Where did you get the pump? And how much? I've got a Santa Fe 2.0 turbo with similar issues. It starts fine but has no power especially when it's cold I have to pull over turn the car off started back up and then I'm good to go. I've noticed that I can hear the GDI pump quit working when I have the issues so obviously the pump is no good. Thanks great video
Hi ...Thank you for the compliment about the video; I appreciate the positive feedback. GDI Pump: I bought the GDI pump in Dec '17, installed it in Jan 2018. After checking the prices online in the US and with my local Hyundai dealer (Hyundai kit had "extra" parts besides just the GDI pump), I decided that $114.05 for the pump AND the Assurant protection plan was worth the gamble. Bought it on eBay from uk_direct_wholesaler (shipped from China ... took about 10 days for delivery). I'm up to about 8K miles on the new GDI pump ... it's still working fine. Now, if only I had a reasonable life expectancy for a GDI pump (sort of like how many miles before a timing belt should be changed), then I could maybe plan ahead more easily.
massspecguy wow what a deal! I'm looking at hundreds more and the best price I could find was from Rock Auto. Can you send me the Ebay link? Thanks again.
Yes, when on Amazon it's ~ $400, it was worth the gamble IMHO. Did a quick search on eBay: uk_direct_wholesaler has same part number that I bought at: www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-High-Pressure-Fuel-Pump-353202G720-For-Hyundai-Sonata-Kia-Sorento-UDW/112642492153?hash=item1a3a0406f9:g:5yQAAOSwFShazG2l for $160.98 plus $23.49 for the Assurant plan. Supposed to be new part... As with any auto repair __ May the Best of Luck be with You!
@massspecguy - This is exactly what I was looking for, the only thing I am missing as per Manual is How Do we set the camshaft at the bottom position when putting back the cam roller ?
Hi 👋 I have my camshaft follower replaced under high pressure fuel pump. And only after that pump started to make lose metal noise. But works fine. What can it be?
Hello there. Great video!. I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T that is approaching 100K miles. Since your Sonata is a year older and lots of miles more than mine, what would you recommend I should be watching out for in my car? I've done spark plugs twice, PCV Valve, throttle body cleaning, intake pipes cleaning... thank you!
Hi! I traded in my Sonata at 190K miles last year, but still miss its superb acceleration at times ... especially with on ramps. My usual preventive maintenance procedures were transmission and coolant changes about every 65K , and engine oil change every 5K with synthetic oil (engine oil change I did myself . Never had a battery last more than 6 years with the Sonata.
It's at 170,000 miles now, and still working. First 3,000 miles I followed the classic "California" break-in protocol [oil changes at 500 miles; 1,500 miles; and 3,000], then at 6,000 miles I switched to synthetic with oil & filter changes every 5,000 miles. As an aside, I find it is actually easier for me to do the oil changes than taking it to the dealer (or an oil change outfit) ... far less hassle.
Hi, yes great video. What were the torque values you used for the bolts and also for the fuel line nut? I think it is 10 ft-lbs for the bolts and 20 ft-lbs for the fuel line connection but want to confirm.
Hi, replacement was 3 years ago, but comment in video of 1/2 turn or about 20 foot-lbs for the 10mm bolts seems reasonable. Tighten the bolts evenly ... GDI pump is cam driven; you do not want to distort the mounting flange. There's probably a Hyundai spec online but I traded in my Sonata 2 years ago at 193K and trashed all my Hyundai stuff.
I cleaned my throttle body, changed air filter, changed spark plugs, changed oil, changed belt and changed my alternator. So my engine wants to sputter just barley at 2000 rpm and I don’t know what’s wrong with it. Is your new fuel pump noisy? I’m thinking of replacing the pump next.
New high-pressure fuel pump was not any more noisy than the original (when the original was working well). I never replaced the low-pressure fuel pump, the pump that sits in the fuel tank. Does the check engine light come on?
@@massspecguy8538 no CEL on but it did for the alternator and the dealer ship cleared it. Idk how well that dealership is though bc they did a bearing clearance test but I still had the same filter and oil on it when I picked it up. I wish I would have had the code checked bf I took it to them but I was trying to get a new engine for free lol. Idk what it is, I may just try to replace the air intake manifold bc they get all clogged up, cleaning the throttle body just changed it from barley sputtering at 1200-1500 rpm’s to 2000. I have no idea what’s going on with it. That’s what being the auto technician is about lol. Also they tried to charge me $1030 to put on a new alternator lol I didn’t do that but they cleared the code bc the ksds had a cluster update
Nice video. I have 106000 on my 2012 Sonata. Was getting ready to take to a mechanic but saw your video. Saved some major$$$. Thanks!!! The car has been good to us, one other fuel issue when it was 35 degrees below zero, but other than that great car.
I was told by the parts person that the aluminum high pressure fuel line has to be replaced after the disconnect, single use only, it cost 70 dollars at Hyundai, the problem I cannot figure out how to remove the rubber bracket that holds it in place.
Sorry ... traded-in my Sonata in 2019 (at 192 K miles) so I can't see the layout, and any guesses would be just that, guesses. Good luck! .... and be sure to check for leaks at a couple of reasonable times after the repair.
@@Moondoggy1941 I have heard the same thing and am now faced with this task as well. I have been told the best way is to remove the airbox as well as the pipe to the turbo. What did you end up doing? Do you happen to have found any video of this process you could direct me to? Most videos I have watched they have not replaced that aluminum line, not to mention the two bolts which I have also been told should be replaced.
I have 2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L....when riding along the car acts like it’s going to stop. When I keep pressing the accelerator backwards and forward the car will start moving again. Any suggestions?
For my Sonata, the symptoms of the GDI pump deteriorating went on for a couple of months before the error code for low fuel rail pressure finally appeared. Your problem sounds definitely like a problem of fuel being delivered to the engine. I would ask the service manager what sort of diagnostic tests are available (and at what cost). And then what the options are.
I have Tucson 2014 and just replaced the spark plugs .. ihad the same problem as you have ; all i did open the metal fuel line and pulled the line almost 1 inch and pulled the ignition coil... without taking the fuel pump out .. but be careful not to break the fuel line
Glad to hear it was of assistance. I figure that if the info helps, even a little bit, then perhaps some good can be drawn from a bad situation. Good luck with the GDI. I wish that there was some decent way to forecast when a GDI pump no longer works up to specs ... so that I could plan for it's replacement.
Maybe... If it has been going on for a while, I would suspect a check engine code should show up ... eventually .... and help you get to the root cause.
Why do you change the pump? What was the problem? I noticed my engine rev better and have better performance when tank il full. I've also a knock on right side when engine is warm. I feel also a vibration on my finger if I touch the ignition coil near the pump, nothing on others.
The original pump had a multitude of fuel-related symptoms before the engine check code finally appeared such as: Long crank time for starting after engine off overnight [~10 seconds]; Poor acceleration & power ... especially when engine was cold; Engine stutter, extreme HESITATION, and almost going to a stall (when trying to accelerate too fast ... too fast being greater acceleration than a Ford Escort going up a steep hill); Mileage drop of 20 to 25% from typical; Scariest symptom was stepping on the accelerator in order to merge onto an expressway and having the engine almost die [I had to pull off to the shoulder on the right and wait for a very large no-traffic spot]. A quick calculation for the number of pump piston strokes is over 150 million [(140,000 miles / 45 miles per hour average speed) x 60 min per hour) x 1800 rpm = 366 million engine rotations .... and I'm assuming the GDI pump piston gets bumped by the camshaft lobe every other engine rotation]. Even for dual seals on the GDI pump piston, 150 million strokes are quite a few. And once the pump piston seals go, then the fuel rail can't get the 2,000 psi fuel pressure, and the GDI injectors can't allow in enough fuel on demand. I sure wish I knew what the average lifetime on these GDI pumps is.
If it is the GDI that is starting to fail, [for me it was at least a couple of months] the error code for low pressure in the fuel rail will eventually show up. I suspect that the low pressure error level is a fuel pressure that is a lot lower than the sub-normal fuel pressure that yields your slow response.
@@massspecguy8538 I checked it with OBD-II and showed me this massage P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor but I can't understand what that means and how to repair this problem
@@badrbasrah3335 There is a description of that code at: www.obd-codes.com/p0193 However, when I got that error, replacing the GDI pump solved the problem for me. The GDI pump works a lot ...ballpark, for every 1,200 miles the GDI pump does a million pump piston strokes ... and moving parts eventually wear out. Perhaps a decent mechanic, who you trust, might be the way to go?
The Sonata is at 160,000 miles now; as for major engine issues, the GDI pump has been the only one. As for other issues, just the usual .... brake jobs, tires, battery, air filters, etc. I did have a rear wheel stud break (which was taken care of as part of a rear wheel brake job), and the clock shorted out (which turned out of be a minor hassle to replace). As for annoying stuff, the "spare" tire was on a 16" rim .... the tires are on 18" rims ... so if I got a flat in the rear, not a problem BUT if a flat on the front, the 16" rim would not fit over the front disc brake [which meant flat in front, then 2 tires have to be changed ... spare replacing good rear tire, then swapping good rear tire for flat front tire]. ..... I have a full size spare tire now.
massspecguy Sounds great! Thanks for the info and the response. I have 48,000 on my 2014. I hope I have good service out of it as you have. Have a great weekend, Sir.👍
You are supposed to replace the metal pipe that connects to it and the bolts that hold down the pump because of a fire hazard. Those things are under immense pressure. Don’t risk it.
Different. The end of the pipe crushes into the high pressure fuel rail when its tightened down. I have seen them leak from not being being replaced and it is too close to the exhaust for comfort.
I have done a few valve cover gasket jobs in these GDI engines and not once replaced that metal line. If it doesn't leak initially, it never will. Don't be an idiot with those M6? bolts that secure the pump and you will be fine. And interestingly, gasoline dripping onto hot exhaust manifolds doesn't ignite and cause fires. There may be a way for it to happen by making conditions just right and yadda yadda, but I have been unsuccessful in my mythbusters attempts at getting it to ignite. Cigarettes also do not ignite gasoline. At least not easily. Again, there may be a way to make it happen, but until a person actually tries, ont say that I am wrong. I would be more concerned about a faulty ignition coil igniting the gasoline. THAT is a real possibility for fire which I have proven to work.
Holy crap - at least you got 140K out of it. Mine needs replacement at 40K miles with engine light on code P0087. How much for the did you pay for the pump?
@@roundsm18 I don't understand how that could happen, yet there's a guy with a 1.6 GDI Accent on the Hyundai forums with 550,000 miles and still on the original high pressure fuel pump!
Jacob O'Brien I have a 2.0 in a Kia Soul+!. It’s been so much of a pain I’m seriously regretting owning a newer gas car. If I didn’t have the ability to do my own maintenance and had to keep sending it back to the dealer I’d have thrown the car out by now. The day the warranty didn’t cover it was the last day the dealer touched it for anything. Now it’s a yard ornament because it’s proven to be nothing more than unreliable at best. It also burns a quart of oil every fifteen hundred miles and has since new. I think it was built on a Monday. Someday it will have a failure or I’ll get curious enough and pull the engine and tear it down. They probably put the rings on the pistons wrong. Either way, first and last Kia I’ll buy.
@@roundsm18 Yeah there's definitely something wrong with that one. Especially when there are some that manage to reach very high mileage with few if any failures or oil consumption issues...
