I learned a pretty simple trick when I was young. You take a hand and firmly grasp the stick, and then you take your other hand and do the same thing. Break the stick in half. You now have a stick.
You must not have been paying much attention when you were young. You can’t break off a green sapling of that size so close to its base with your hands alone. If nothing else the fibers will bend and not let it go and you’ll likely just stand there fiddling with it until you give up and walk away. Go give it a try if you don’t believe me, you know, now that you’ve matured some.
I normally cut a large “v” notch into the “top side” where you said don’t chop, then a smaller one on the “underside”, then put the pressure on. There’s less chance of splitting. Get a clean break normally, if not you can ease the pressure off, tidy it up with a few cuts then apply pressure again. As they say, there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Side note: It also leaves the top of the sapling pretty neat, which I like to do as some species of tree will be able to keep on growing, either as they were or new sprouting branches. I’m not sure which species can off the top of my head so I try to do it for all. Just in case.
@@justinuriahphoto Thank you for sharing yours. I dream of a world where everyone is capable of providing for themselves again. And it starts right here. Sharing the knowledge.
If you wanna know why this is effective: Bending the Tree introduces shear force, compressing one side and tensioning the other. Since fiberous materials (such as rope or plant stem) are said to be far weaker when under tension by a load or force, the tree will be more susceptible to breaking at the center of force (similar to how snapping a twig will make it break in the middle almost every time). When he's rocking the Knife against the grain, it introduces another shear force perpendicular to the tensioned side of the existing shear force, which compresses the outer stem, but further adds tension to the inner stem of the tree, causing the stress to overcome the material's tensile strength and break through. Another thing to note is that the cut isn't clean because of the release in tension after he's cut the tree
it has a very good finish. I knew a variant that didn't look like this. it was twisting the trunk and pushing the knife in hard, but at 45° it cuts much easier, but it doesn't stay straight. It's good to know how to do both, one for speed, the other for staying straight
I bet you did it with a buck knife too!!! I had a buck 110 when I was a teenager, as my dad said a man should always be prepared. I also had a couple of the older schrade old timers from before their splitting up!!! Oh and a Wyoming saw!!!
@@CadillacDriverYou're much more likely to have a knife on hand rather than a saw in most scenarios requiring this kind of hack. That being said, in moments where you ARE planning to cut something like this, a saw would be a good alternative
Actually if you bent it enough you can just push down with the blade and it will expose the fibers you’ll save a few minutes, tries it with a leatherman’s blade and it works like a charm
I always use this trick when needed. Was gonna say "if it cracks bend the other direction," but this fella is just highly educated as is, and covered that immediately. Just wish he would have shown the double V notch method, where you make a bigger V cut on the top side where the tension is, doing the same type of cut so its all neat, then on the back side a smaller v, almost like upper case lower case respectively. Cut down the midde of that a little from the back then go through the front and it almost never splits, and lets the tree grow back easier so you dont actually even really damage the tree at all, they almost always live through that method. Effectively this works like a press cut, it only cuts few fibers at a time making it less work in a single action, effectively doing more work with less effort.
I’ve done this with a utility knife. Nobody showed me. It just made sense to do it that way. I also do this when stripping the outer jacket off of a multi-conductor electrical cable, it helps to prevent cutting the insulation on the conductors inside.
I feel like if you don't already know this its because you don't spend much time outside. Most of these "tricks " people make videos on are just common sense skills that you figure out for yourself out of necessity and a little frustration.
Apply this technique using a 45⁰ instead of a 90⁰ angle between the edge of your knife and the sapling you want to cut and the results will be impressive!!!
A much easier way is to bend it like you did, then "carve" with deep cuts. You make a sort of spear but it cuts it 3* faster and doesn't split the bottom out
Alternatively you can put your foot on the tree and use a stick to smack through the tree, only use if your knife is robust enough and you really need to.
Well, I prefer beefy knifes with a decent cutting edge, so I bend and chop. Only that it does not take a quantillion tiny chops like in the video, but like 2-3 normal ones and voila. If i have a thinner knife on hand, i simply cut diagonally down the sapling. Usually takes about 1 good cut on each side to take it down.
I've learned depending on the wood if you use this same technique but turn the blade to a 45° angle to the wood it uses less force for a similar result I was inspired by the way Japanese swordsman cut tatami mats the angles the cut at are interesting to me especially when the mats stay standing after have been cut