A leica iii can as well be used for "reactive photography." For example, you can push your 400 film to 1600, and that would allow you to use f22 or f16 for almost all situations. There you have a very deep depth of field. Preset the focal distance to 7m, then all you have to do is to frame the photo and press shutter.
@@billbarendse1918 There're stencil film leader cutter tools available that will cut the film for older Leica screw mount cameras to eliminate the problem of sharp edges & the problem of film bits fouling the shutter mechanism.
My first Leica was a family camera. Ye Olde Leica IIIa was fitted with a 50mm f/1.5-9 Tayor-Hobson Xenon. This 1930's "speed lens"lens had dirt between the lens elements and visible haze, leading to fuzzy images. As soon as I could, it was replaced with a 1950's 50mm f/3.5 collapsible Elmar, which produced great Kodachrome slides and black-and-white negatives. Back in the 1960's, Kodak film had a "Leica tongue," until Fuji arrived with it's "short tongue." I cut a "Leica tongue" (and Fuji "short tongue") template out of cardboard which I used during my college days. In those days, I bought bulk film from a local "cost + 10%" photo supply store or Freestyle Sales Company. The latter company introduced me to Ilford and ORWO black-and-white bulk films. To use the Leica "after sundown," I had X flash synchronization added, which worked at 1/20 sec.
Love my Leica iiif. I’ve had it jam up because of torn film but I’ve never (as far as I can recall) gotten film stuck in the shutter curtain- I will definitely take care to trim it (or tear it) more smoothly though. As for how slow it is, I generally find that I can still zone focus with it very well using a 35mm summaron. Take care not to hit the rotating dial with your finger though as you release the shutter. Another important thing about these screw mount Leicas- the minimum focus distance is something like 3.5 feet. That said, a lot of these older leicas have holes in the shutter curtain or unreliable shutter speeds but they ARE serviceable. Had mine fixed up perfectly, lenses included, and I get the itch to use it every so often. It’s just such a beautiful camera and feels good to hold
thanks for sharing your experiences with this camera. They are easy to carry and take up so little space. I agree that they are beautiful and once you get used to them they get out of your way. Cheers.
I am very seriously considering a Leica of this vintage, so I thank you for your insights and knowledge. I have been taking pictures since I was in my teens, when success was a photo that was in focus and recognizable of its subject matter. Digital took over before I could really learn the intricacies of manual photography, or as I call it, real photography. Your knowledge, and that of your viewers, in their comments, has inspired me to learn more. Thank you for the video.
I shot a roll a day in my lllg back in tho 60s and remember having a bit of filling getting the film to load easily. But I do remember that I cut the leaders rather crudely and not having any trouble. I bulk loaded slightly out of date Kodak XX film which worked out at about 1 cent a frame. I think I encountered some film chips and learned to not cut through the sprocket holes. The roll a day exercise took about a year to close the gap between how the image in the viewfinder looked to how it was rendered on the film. So I learned to previsualise with a rangefinder - an awareness which does transfer even to single lens reflex photography. I am a B&W photographer at heart but like to shoot with my Olympus EM-D 5 Mark lll with the viewfinder in monochrome because I’m grateful to not have to translate the colour viewfinder image into monochrome. Seeing it directly still gives me a boost.
I think this is a lovely camera and is perfect for a photo walk when you just want to relax and enjoy photography, forgetting about all the technicality of more advanced and modern cameras. I would love to have and shoot one of these cameras in the short future.
I have the iiif. It is actually possible getting the film in without cutting the leader and without removing the lens, but it takes a little fiddling around until you feel it 'slide' in. It never failed on me although in bad days it takes a little bit more time, but your miles may vary. I'd cut the leader if I know I would have to sit and change the film quickly outside, otherwise I won't bother. I self service this particular camera so even if the film got jammed I'm not super worried about shards of film if it fails. Also the 10cm part of the leader will be exposed anyway, cut or not, so you don't really waste more film by cutting the leader.
Very good video that explains details other RU-vidrs tend to omit. I have a iii, but my favourite screw Leica combo right now is a mint iic with collapsible 50mm lens. It produces beautiful images. Now I just need to win the lottery so I can buy more film.
Leica M cameras are quieter than the old models. Not actually quieter than a modern SLR/DSLR, but "smoother" than SLRs up to the 80s, less intrusive (less moving parts, no mirror, less "going on"). I had many M cameras and a Leica IIIf (I kept the IIIf), and when it comes to sound, the M models sound quieter and especially nicer. Still, I like the "sound" of the IIIf (and its predecessors). A Leica II or III (up to f) is also small, "feels good", the lenses are tiny, the rangefinder is astonishingly accurate (because it has magnification built in, works well with a 135 mm lens) and has focus adjustment (no corrective lenses needed like with the M models). The severe film loading problems you mentioned I haven't encountered (with two different IIIf cameras), but I use a cutting template (not the original one, but with the same dimensions) and try to be careful to determine that the transport works. In the end, you either love or hate this camera. That I kept the IIIf should make my feelings clear … ;-)
thanks for sharing you experience. I think there is also a middle ground of people who dismiss it, they neither hate or love it, and wonder why one would repair them or keep using them. But in the short time I've had one I've come to like it very much. Non photographers think they're beautiful, btw. Cheers.
Sin duda son las mejores cámaras para hacer grandes fotografías. Después de décadas de trabajar con inumerables cámaras y marcas, me quedo sin ninguna duda con mis Barnak y con la joya de la Leica M3. Las Japonesas son grandes cámaras pero se quedan en otro lugar. Me gustan mucho las Olimpus OM. Gracias es un gran video y muy ilustrativo. Saludos desde México....
Sorry I don't speak Spanish but I read a translation. Thank you for your kind words and sharing your experience of Leica cameras. Greetings from Australia. Cheers.
Great video, after watching this I'm well certain Leica is not for me. I have never been really enamored with rangefinders anyway. I think I'll stick with the Nikon FM series.
Thanks for your comment. I have to agree with you, if I have to get the shot I'm going to take one of my Nikons. There's a reason the Nikon SLR cruelled the rangefinder across the board, and it's not because they were cheaper. Cheers.
Well, to be fair, if you buy the more modern Leica film cameras...I think past M4-M6...you don't have to cut the film, it loads just fine. I have a MA and it loads easy peasy.....
I love your reason for getting it! A long time ago a golf coach told me to pick a putter that I liked the look of because you should enjoy looking at it when you use it. I may not gold any more but I still hold on to that gem.
Great video! Always good to see Leica III content. As a fellow RU-vidr I try to share the magic of these cameras too! You cover some great points and I love the high tech testing (slow mo etc). For loading film I agree for a smooth "cut" but I have about 8 of them that I use and I never message the leader length. It will vary a lot but I never have any issues with any body. I agree to rewind before starting. Works great. Shutter sounds vary a lot too. Older models to the one you have are much smoother and quieter sounding. I use from 1930s onwards and the early ones are super smooth. (Each have their benefits ofc, later ones have more features). Good to see you're a fellow cyclist too!
Congratulations, great video to tell all the facts other enthusiasts dont talk. I still do not own a Leica (don't know which one to choose 😂) but I am using Canon rangefinders of the 1940s and 1950s and they are copies of the bottom loading system. It was a heard time (ok, two days) to find out, that the 10cm leader is inevitable to get the film into the camera. And thank you very much for the hint what the lens cover is made for. I think noone thinks about that all the time danger of getting pin holes in the shutter curtain and dozens of hot spots on your pics. Thanks a lot , Thomas
The easiest way to trim the leader is by using a leader cutting jig. It’s a hinge with a slot cut to the shape required for Barnack Leicas. Leitz made them for loading the Leica brass reusable cassette with rolls of cinema film. You pull the leader out to engage the sprocket hole to a tab, then close the hinge and cut down the slot with a small pen knife blade, leaving a perfectly trimmed leader. I don’t have a Leitz trimmer but an aftermarket one. It’s made of aluminum and weighs next to nothing.
Well, I think I’ll stay with my dated Nikon F cameras. I understand them, they’re fast and simple to use but foremost is my familiarity with them. Maybe not so classy or costly as the Leicas and certainly bulkier. After 30 plus years with them they’re an extension of my eyes and hands. I’ve used M series Leicas in the past and I liked them OK but my Nikon was faster if speed was needed. I’ve also used the Nikon rangefinder cameras and still have a very nice black Contax from that era. All the rangefinders are conveniently small and quiet but in my hands, they lack the familiarity of my tank like F cameras. I also developed a film trimming scheme that’s not recommended but works well for me and avoids the problems you’ve encountered. Excellent presentation and a really sweet looking Leica.👍🏽👍🏽
thank you for sharing your experiences and your kind words on the presentation. My three best images this year were all taken with my Nikon F and a wide angle lens. Cheers.
Basic Nikon F cameras from the late 60’s and early 70’s. I have a couple of FTN’s but I prefer my Gossen hand held meter. I periodically have them gone over by a good camera tech but they seldom need anything. I recently found a brand new one from 1971. Favorite wide angle is the 24.8, favorite normal is my 50 1.8, favorite tele is my 105 2.5. Also have a 28 3.5, 35 2.8, 55 3.5, 135 2.8, 180 2.8, 300 4.5 and 1,000 11. The long lenses don’t get much use nowadays. I’ve never been a big fan of Zooms. I bought my first F in 1968…still have it…still works. If Nikon still made them, I think they’d sell OK.
If I were you sir, I'd be content to know that I were holding a piece of photographic history in my hands, as far as photography is concerned it is as old as time. That it functions so flawlessly as designed is just a testament to the Quality of German engineering. There is no point reviewing a Leica III, with the parameters that were set nearly 80 years after its creation. No doubt a byproduct of the digital era, where computers within the camera box do everything for the ' photographer ' but pressing the shutter release button, but that is coming too, be in no doubt.
Thank you - very informative for me pondering the acquisition of a Leica III to add to my small collection of film cameras. A collection that I use and rotate between cameras as I desire. At present my oldest camera is a mint condition Rolleicord IV from the late 1950s - visually and mechanically a joy. As a child in the 70s all I wanted was a Pentax SLR (to me more appealing than the Canons or Nikons of that era) but I “made do” with a Praktica through the 80s and it still works just fine. I finally got a Pentax MX dating from the 70s and it’s a gem. The MX was the smallest SLR ever made and is roughly the size of the Leica III but is quite heavy by modern standards 750g with 50mm f1.4 lens attached. The funny thing about the “silent shutter” (almost) of the TLR Rolleicord is that there is less of a sense of occasion pressing the shutter than an SLR, and maybe the Leica as well. The auditory feedback of the mirror and shutter is quite enjoyable in my opinion. Yes it announces you to all who are close by but you feel involved in the process. With the super quiet Rollei the moment passes in virtual silence so in some ways less satisfying. It does take great photos with that big negative and sharp lens though. Easily the most enjoyable is the Pentax MX with its large, high magnification viewfinder and TTL view means you feel connected to the image. I do wonder how the Leica rangefinder experience will compare.
You’re welcome and thanks for sharing your experiences. The viewfinder on any Barnack Leica is barebones and you should think of it only providing information on what is in focus and approximately what is in frame. A top SLR gives you a better viewfinder in my opinion, except it blacks out as you take the picture, which some people hate. You get used to the quietness of the shutter and it’s not that quiet, each camera due to their age being more or less quiet. If you do buy one get it with a repair warranty because the cameras cost as much as the more expensive Leica M to service because you’re mainly paying for labour.
I own my fair share of cameras, nikon F3, some Mamiya medium formats, and some yashicas. My leica IIIf is still my go to and my favorite. It slows me down. I invite you to try the card stock loading method without trimming the leader. Place camera to T. Insert card stock until you feel it seat into the film guides. Then insert the film behind it and wind once. Then remove the card stock.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. However, I think there's been a slight misunderstanding. As I said in the video, I did try that method and it just does not work with my copy of the camera. Cheers.
Dear Mr.Houstondrum thank you for the Newton trick film hack. Nothing Like in like flint! Maybe I try if I'm ever so lucky to pick up a Leica. Sure would like to know how to set Leica sequence shutter speed dial on a S nikon. Maybe I'm just dense? Is 1-20 worse than 1-30? I shot film two summers ago and seem to remember queuing to 1-20 before establishing final lower or upper dial as the case may be.someone said to select the top dial first at 1-30 then choose your lower dial? Im shooting existing light in my dim trailer. I know how to use a weston meter I just want to know exactly which number is considered home base,? 1-20 or 1-30. Or some other number for normal daylight. I would think 1sec exactly. Then in my low light in the trailer 1-30 : 1/30 of one second. I logically would choose 1. The unit. Then the fraction thereof. Math was never my strong subject. So if anyone who knows exactly thanks for any help. I'm used to speed dial on Nikon F which I grew up with. I've had my S for two years and still don't understand the twin dial Leica type system. I'm getting ok exposures but want to understand the shutter speed dial.
I have long dreamed of owning a Leica, but I think you need the patience of a saint to put up with all its foibles. Fascinating stuff, thank you for sharing.
Thank you for your kind words. Once you've learned how to load a Barnack it's easy sailing because it's consistent. I've so far had a great deal of fun. If I may be so bold, I would say buy a Barnack camera from a reputable dealer at a bricks and mortar store that warrants the camera is in good working order and will refund your money if there's something wrong with the it. I could expand at length but that's the gist of it :). Cheers.
@@billbarendse1918 thank you, yes I agree that’s a good idea, and also I would really want to have it in my hands to see what I was getting and if I liked the look and feel of it.
@@mike_lambert Maybe you can find somebody who owns an old (screw-mount) Leica and is willing to let you have it for a week or so. Then you know if it suits you or not. Then you can worry about were to get a decent one yourself (not easy by now), and what lenses to buy …
I am going try and pick up a Leica IIIC with 5cm 2 . Both in fantastic condition. Already sent the store an email but it is Sunday so hoping to hear back tomorrow.
Thanks for the video. I hope I don't upset any Leica purists with the fact that I'm watching this video out of interest for my new Canon IV Sb. It's my first rangefinder camera and I'm already in love. It's hitting that perfect middleground between cameras of the early 20th century with it's relative operational and mechanical simplicity, and cameras of the latter half of the century with a broader range of options for exposure control that I've gotten used to with more modern cameras. I can only hope that when my test roll comes out of the developing tank it will prove this camera operational.
thanks for sharing your ideas and plans for your Canon rangefinder. Despite what you might have heard, the bulk of actual Leica owners own more than one brand of camera and appreciate good cameras where ever they find them. Cheers.
thank you for your kind comment. All I can say is the desire won't go away until you get one :). For your first I would always recommend going with a place that guarantees the camera is in working order and that you can return if it is defective because repair costs are as much as it costs to repair an M camera and you don't want a camera that doesn't work to harsh your buzz. Cheers.
I bought a leica m6.072ttl with a 35mm f2 on a whimp,i took it on a trip and took 15 photos only,i just couldn't get the hang of it,although its a very smooth camera,i just couldn't get on with it,i found the rangefinder focusing very awkward,and the loading very difficult and time consuming,i find the slr camera and focusing unbeatable.very fast focusing, very quick to load the film,plus what you see in the viewfinder is what you will get on film.you cant beat a Japanese camera for quality or reliability.leica is just a badge.nikon,canon,pentax,minolta,Olympus,all make top quality cameras,my personal favourite is nikon for quality,reliability, workmanship,one word worth a thousand pictures.
You have to realize that this is a 75-year-old model. Leica's breakthrough came with the introduction of the M3 and shortly after the M2: with an improved film insertion method, the rangefinder incorporated in the viewfinder and automatic frames for the 50, 90 and 135 mm (M3) and 35, 50 and 90 mm for the M2. Which made the M2 the most versatile camera for reportage photographers in the sixties.
thanks for sharing your experience and opinion. Personally I think Leica made more than one breakthrough and that the M Leicas are the culmination of the rangefinder design. Cheers.
What if I told you that the Nikon SP came out the exact same year as the M2 and had frame lines for 28, 35, 50, 85, 105 and 135 and didn't require the second take up spool that the m3 and M2 used making loading significantly easier
Great presentation. The critical the film loading procedure with this camera is well covered. The Leica IIIa is a gem but his presentation brings out all the things one must do to get good results and not damage the camera. A real bargain lens for this camera is the 90mm f4 Elmar. The Canon 50mm F1.4 and 135mm F4 Ltm are also great lenses to use with this camera and go for a reasonable price.
Yeah, the 90mm f4 Elmar is not only a bargain, it is a great performer too! I first bought one as a temporary replacement for an Elmarit 2.8/90mm that needed service, had it on a digital M8 - and was blown away by the image quality I got! It has its downsides (heavy blooming in highlights when wide open), but overall results are just good. I love it.
Oh, and speaking of Canon lenses for rangefinder cameras - I do have a 35 mm F2, and it is well suited for the old screw-mount Leicas (there was no similar lens from Leica). It gives an "old-style" rendering wide open, and becomes rather "modern" real quick when stopping down.
@@c.augustin there is a rare 8-element 35 mm summicron in LTM from 1958 to 1963 that costs a fortune, more expensive than the 1999 version 35 mm summicron produced in LTM. And we shouldn't forget the expensive W-NIKKOR 35 mm f1.8 from the opposition ;)
@@billbarendse1918 Yeah, right … I'll stick to my Canon 35 mm 2.0. If I grab the Leica, I'm fine with "old style" rendering. Maybe, but only maybe, I'll search for a nice Summaron 2.8/35 mm in LTM (I had the M version, and I loved it); hard to find (more M versions around).
Very good presentation of a quirky but capable camera! As a sidenote, I think Cartier Bresson is holding a Leica M6 in that color-picture. You can see the taped-over red-dot. For shooting people while beeing with them, in my experience from the 90s up to now, nothing beat the Leica until small and really silent mirrorless digitals arrived. The clicking of the shutter has been described as silent but is not even close but taking the picture is less obstrusive. I have never seen anybody giving the reasons as well as you did, congrats for that! 🎉
thank you for your comment and watching so far into the video. Yes I agree it is an M6. The lens is also the LTM 50mm Summicron not a Summar as I stated. Cheers.
Dear Sir ,,, You are a Very precise person that I wish that I had listened to many years ago.. So many inconsistencies,,, that I have heard...... You deserve many more Viewers..... Please live long and tell us More Truths :) :) I am 70yrs old and shoot Fed & Zorki 1,2,3&4s, But more Nikon FM & FE when it comes to film ,,, But I love my newer Nikon D750 & Z5 ,, I do not like the Bulk BUT ........ ;)
I believe those Barnack Leicas is the most affordable way to get into Leica rangefinder system (Ms are most expensive). And plenty of good 3rd party Leica screw mounts lenses available: Nikon, Canon, etc. As long as you stick with shorter primes like 50mm, and not doing macro work, it should be fine. Of course, if you are patient enough and wiiling to spend more cash, then get a M3 or M2. Handling the Barnacks is a bit annoying.
I think a Barnack Leica is like a vintage car. If you want to use it every day, then you need to get used to it and have a lot of mechanical sympathy. Once you do that and really connect with it you have a great experience. If, however you just 'take it out for a spin' now and again you need to concentrate on getting into the mindset so you don't expect it to do things it was never meant to do. I love using my IIia precisely because it makes me look and think in a different way from my Canon 5D. - And I don't drive my 1959 Austin Healey like I do my modern Jaguar. :-) Lastly, I highly recommend an ABLON film leader cutting template. - Solves the whole trimming/ bits of loose film/jamming issue! :-)
Thanks for sharing your experience. As it happens I alternate between my IIIf and my M3 to keep them in use and to keep my practise up to speed. Cheers.
Some excellent info. Another topic rarely mentioned is the shutter usually needs cleaning adjustment to use w proper exposure and the curtains are often old and stiff and need replacement which few can do any more.
Thanks. Since making this video I’ve discovered that my IIIf may be loud for a Leica because the M3 I subsequently bought is about 10dB quieter. Unless all Barnacks are louder than Ms, which I doubt, because people say they are as quiet as each other. Cheers.
If you buy a Barnack (Leica II, etc) without doing any research then this video is helpful. I would say that these cameras are wonderful and I own a number of them BUT they are a commitment. The reward is a machine that is the Gensis of 35mm film and whispers to you every time you squeeze the shutter. Love them but not for the quick and dirty shooters.
Thank you for your kind words on the presentation and sharing your experience with these cameras. I agree they are quite the experience to use and worthwhile if you approach them with the right frame of mind. Cheers.
I have had occasion to replace the shutter curtains on 3 early Leicas. I was not impressed with the quality of the inner workings or the design in general. I feel that the early Contax were much better made.
thanks for your comment. I have no experience of Soviet copies like the Fed or the Zorki but I know some people are really keen. Maybe one day. Cheers.
One more thing, at 4:57 you seem to cut in short strokes multiple times, but it's not the best way to cut since it causes micro jagged edges. You should open the scissors more and then do a long stroke following the curve. This way the result will be much smoother.
thanks for noticing. Actually I was trying to show that if someone had butchered the leader that they would need to smooth it out before it could be used. Cutting it smoothly at the start makes everything easier rather than hacking at the leader and then have to smooth it out afterwards.
Leica are very well made cameras no doubt on it but they are not perfect. They need to be regularly reviewed and re-adjusted which is expensive too. I got a Leica iiic and an m4. They do good pictures but not better than my other film cameras. In 2022 if you want to make film photos with rangefinder cameras the voigtlander Bessa L (for 15 and 25mm) or Bessa R (for 35, 50 and 75mm) are far cheaper and more efficient. They got and metering system, a shutter which goes to 1/2000 , very nice and sharp lenses at affordable prices. They look a little plasticky but they are light (good for your back or shoulder). For 500€ which is not the price of a Leica lens… you can have a Bessa and a good lens. 15mm is amazing and permits very interesting shots, 25mm is good for street photography, and 35mm is universal. The voigtlander lenses alone can be found for 300-400€ so for 1200-1300€ you can have a camera + 3 lenses with an incredible range from 15 to 35mm. Add a 75mm and you can make portraits. With one camera and 4 lenses you are not even at the price of an m4 without a lense (2000€).
The only time I will tolerate a rangefinder camera is when it's a medium format camera, just to have the advantage of smaller size and lighter weight, such as a Mamiya 6.
Thanks for the great video! Î knew most of these things because I have owned a Leica M6 TTL for a few years. That experience cured me completely from Leica GAS (gear aquisition syndrome). I found the autofocus to be not precise enough to focus the Noctilux lens at f0.95, I often made the mistake to forget to take the lens cap off the lens before taking a picture, exposure was quite often a little bit off (because of the imho not too good metering of the M6 TTL - even when you know how to exposure compensation in manual mode) and I was completely unable to take pictures of anything that was moving with at wider apertures. Also some of the lenses were imho a bit underwhelming (especially when it comes to bokeh) and overpriced at the same time. Honestly I'm wondering why this camera has such a good reputation. Having learned my lesson I now take analog 35mm pictures with a Nikon F6 and digital pictures with a Sony Alpha 1. I'm very happy with both cameras.
thanks for sharing your experiences. In my opinion, Leicas have the reputation from history and build quality, who used them and that they are very solidly built. Importantly, in the film world of today, with nearly no new film cameras, you know that you can get a Leica repaired, and if you so desire, you can buy a new one. This happy state of affairs is partly due to the much maligned collectors and rich amateurs who buy these cameras :). They're not easy to use, and trying to shoot a moving target at say f1.4 or f2 with a rangefinder is one of the hardest things to do. That's what autofocus and a motordrive is for.
@@billbarendse1918 Nothing against Leica in general, but the M system is imho just an anachronism - and yes, you're right: one with great build quality 😅 Personally I think Leica M cameras are best for reportage style photography - something I never do. For people photography (which I do a lot) it cannot be focused precisely enough at f1.4 or f2. And yes, this is why autofocus was invented and this is also why I use either my Sony Alpha 1 or my Nikon F6.
I have a Fuji X100s which has a leaf shutter. Super quiet. Something like a Minolta V2 (35mm) or Mamiya 7 II (120 medium format) would be super quiet rangefinder film cameras.
Video @ 14:44 "on his Leica M4 - a close look at the lens indicates it's a Leica Summar" - Correction, Henri Cartier-Bresson (in that image), had a collapse Leitz 5cm Summicron on a M6 (has a built-in meter). There's some 30 years between those very different lens formulas (Summar to Summicron), plus, you keep saying Leica III. The different 'letter' designations also traverse some 30 years (III, IIIa, IIIB, IIIc, IIIf and finally IIIg). They're very different cameras - In fact, image #2 is an M3 body & the next image #3 shows HCB using a IIIg model...
thanks for the note about the summicron and the M6, I'm afraid I don't have a prize for spotting mistakes :). I appreciate the differences between the various Barnack cameras, I don't disregard them, but they are as nothing to the difference between Barnacks and M Leicas. My point in that section is that HCB used both an M Leica and a Barnack camera, in his usage the M Leica did not replace the Barnack. HCB used Barnack Leicas starting with a Leica model I and used a wide range of Barnacks all the way to a IIIg, to fix on any specific model would have been over precise and so incorrect.
Thanks. That's so right, I've lifted the camera to take a photo and found my eye up against the back of the camera, more than once. I still took the shot, of course. Before buying an M I needed to convince myself of Leica build quality, whether a rangefinder would suit me, and whether I could adequately focus by looking at the subject and then moving the focus tab without using the rangefinder. I'm getting better at it, it is a thing.
Just buy a Nikon F100 Bill, the film winds on and off itself, you get brilliant metering, a great viewfinder, fantastic ergonomics, huge selection of fine lenses, a motor drive at various speeds built in, your 36 shots will be perfectly exposed and you will have a very fine machine. If you want a film Leica, M6/M7.
@@stuartwalker121 lol but then you wouldn't have the delicious sensation of being able to talk about all the shots you missed :) The F100 has a good reputation, I mainly shoot Nikon, I should know, and also *ahem* I have a Nikon DSLR as well. Take care.
@@billbarendse1918 Well Bill, it's all a bit dreamy if you ask me? Yes, H C-B used his older Barnack Leicas in Spain and elsewhere from the 30s on, but that was all there was these days, he got great results notwithstanding all their limitations. Now today, I have to say, why bother? If you want to shoot a film M there are many beauties to choose from that will not make for a frustrating day like a Barnack shooter will. The M2 brings up a single frame line with a 35mm lens and is so great to shoot. The M3 brings up a single frame line with a 50mm lens and that viewfinder on the M3 with a 50mm is unsurpassed even today, but the M3 is a lot heavier than the M2 and after 12 hours walking about with an M3 switching back to an M2 is a revelation. Then there is the hunchback of Solms, the M5, I had one, great meter and shutter speed dial but too awkward in the hands. Just too big! I have an M7 with a 35mm pre-ashpherical Sumilux f/1.4 and a 50mm Summicron f/2 V3. I bought the original M7 in 2002 when they were released, held onto it until 2018 when they announced the line was ending. I sold my original model and I bought another late edition 2018 new M7 model that cost me two arms and two legs as I really like my M7 and I wanted one of the very last ones. I think the M7 is the fastest shooter for street. The M6 Classic however is the most beautiful ergonomic model of them all... but I chose the M7 for AE and electronic shutter. The MP - I had two of them but they both went back, an 0.58 and a 0.72 - kept them for 5 years and sold them both at a profit. I did not take to them like I took to the M7. Film Leica's do not depreciate in any way. In fact, an M6 will cost 2500.00gbp + now where as 5/7 years ago you could get one for 1200.00. Absolutely Crazy! I would not advise anyone to get a Barnack Leica. Too frustrating a shooting experience. More a museum piece now. More a dream of days gone by. Why bother? I believe a camera NEEDS a built in meter, however I still have a soft spot for M2/M3 but would not buy either of these models again unless I had to. I'd advise anyone looking for a film Leica to get an M6 Classic or an M7. The MP model is good but then again it's very heavy with these brass plates top/bottom and you pay 1500 more than an M6. Thanks for the video Bill and for the discussion. Stu.
@@stuartwalker121 thanks Stu, for sharing your experience. FWIW I was never not going to buy a Barnack camera and never not going to shoot one regularly, not least for the historical perspective on an important camera. Cheers.
Very much appreciate your sharing about your Leica camera. Can you tell me which Russian manufacturer makes the closest copy of Leica? I think I'm torn between the iiiF Leica or 1934 iiiG Mr. BARNACKS LAST LEICA . It seemed to me Amelia Earhart had a Leica around her neck in The Search For Amelia Earhart photo. Would it be more practical for me to buy a Russian copy of Leica or spring for the real deal? Are the optics of Leica so much superior to that of Russian copy? Thank you for any free help.
thanks for your kind words. I can't give you too much advice because I've never used a Soviet copy of the Barnack Leica. It is well known, though, that the Leica is made to significantly higher engineering standards than the Soviet copies. The Fed 1 and the Zorki 1 cameras are the closest copies to the Barnack Leica, afterwards, these cameras went on their own developmental path. The Kiev camera is a copy of the Zeiss Contax and is not compatible at all. There is a significant amount of information on the Fed and Zorki wiki pages about lenses. All these cameras were made in Ukraine when it was part of the Soviet Union. They say there are no good old wines only good old bottles, and the same applies to cameras. The cameras will be over 60 years old. Therefore it is quite possible to get a good Fed or Zorki and a poor Barnack, depending on how they have been treated. The odds are that the Barnack will be better because they're worth more and so are more likely to be serviced. The IIIg is more expensive than the IIIf because it is rarer, so it depends on whether you're doing this as a collector or you want to use the camera for taking pictures. They're equally easy to use. If you're using it to take pictures then the usual recommendation is to get a Red Dial IIIf. Cheers.
Better yet..............just cut the ten centimeter film leader as intended. This GREATLY reduces the likelihood of fragments of film fouling the shutter!
You make some very salient points, I use and have done since the early 70's various cameras and in particular, IIIc, IIIf and an M2, have you used the SOOBI 50mm finder it makes any III are more delightful camera in use. Thank you for sharing your observations in this video,.
Thanks for this video, very useful. I'm the new owner of a Leica IIIc, my first Leica!!! I haven't tested it yet. Could you tell us about using Soviet lenses on Leica bodies and the focus issues related? Is it a myth or not?? I heard and read both opinions. Thank you!
thanks for your kind words and I hope that your Leica IIIc goes well. I haven't used any Soviet era lenses myself so I can't speak from experience. You do hear things, like the copy to copy variation which means you can occasionally get a dud. If you're talking about focusing helices, because they're rangefinders and some Soviet lenses are designed to copy Leica (Fed & Zorki) focusing helices while others are designed to copy Contax (Kiev) focusing helices, I would hope that if a lens says it is LTM that it should fit a Leica and focus correctly, unless you've got a dud copy. If you're taking an unmodified Contax style lens and trying to fit it via an adapter I think all bets are off, because I can't see how that would focus correctly across the range. I'm sorry I don't have a more definitive answer for you. Cheers.
This is why I don't bother with a Leica III. Leica M3 all the way for me. Best Leica ever made. And I know this because I bought a new Leica MP from Leica two years ago - which now is going back to Leica a second time for a mechanical issue after I just got it back from a repair that took two months to complete.
I know what you mean, I have a Leica M3 as well. I think most people are happy to pay the difference. But the IIIf is a solid, well built camera similar in finish to an M3 and may not need to be returned to the manufacturer :). Thanks for sharing your experience. Cheers.
@@neilpiper9889 many people have the same response they say the viewfinder is the most useful. I have yet to try it. The prices aren't coming down, unfortunately, so that's going to be a while :(
@@billbarendse1918 The M2 is nice, but a bit "short" on frame lines (M6 and MP are better in this sense; there are some M4 cameras with re-fitted frame line masks). If I remember right, the 75 mm frame is missing, and I'm not sure about 28 mm (I had one, but too long ago).
@@c.augustin M2 only has 35, 50 and 90 frame lines, and the whole viewfinder is an approximate frame for a 28 mm. The M4-P was the first to have 28 and 75 frame lines, like the M6.
Lol, good question. No, for two reasons. The IIIf has a plastic surround to the viewfinder and two, I only need spectacles to read not take photos. I have nearly scratched by sunnys on the M3 but fortunately it did not happen. Cheers.
Good grief. I've used Barnack Leicas since the 1960s, trimmed my own film leaders with my Swiss Army Knife since film manufacturers stopped cutting it, used them like the (now somewhat eccentric) gems that they have always been, never needed all this mumbo jumbo. If you're in action with one, you wind it by opposing movements of both hands: Left hand holding camera body, over the top toward your shoulders. Right hand holding winding knob, turn away from your shoulders. Simple, fast, you feel it.
awesome presentation thanks. I'd love a barnack I have a zorki 4 which is away getting fixed.....It's a fun camera to shoot. One day I'll have one haha. happy to Like and sub cheers
Thanks for your kind words and the subscription! If you do get one, buy one that has been CLA’d by a reputed repairer. But I’m sure I don’t have to tell you that :). Cheers.
haha cheers mate, I've bought a few brands on spec, mostly for channel content, to be fair from memory only two have caused me major issues, a Zenit, and the Zorki, go figure haha. @@billbarendse1918
BTW I never used scissors to cut my leaders, I got into the habit of just tearing it at the sprocket holes. I found you could get a nice smooth curve by tearing it. I never had a jam, and my first Leica3 I retired only because the viewfinder lens fell off, but I can appreciate the risk of film debris clogging the shutter curtains.
thanks for sharing your experiences. I have seen footage of people tearing film to the correct length and it seems to work but I haven't tried it myself. From your wording it sounds like you still have a Leica 3, which is good to hear. Cheers.
Video @ 2:38 "for my camera - - -" - Having serviced countless Leica screw mount cameras for over 40 years, about 10% of them have had past service personnel install the Pressure Plate in THE WRONG WAY ! - There's a tiny bevel on one end of the metal pressure plate, this can be easily reversed. This error in reassembly can make loading the film VERY frustrating... Video @ 8:44 "claim - you will destroy the camera" - Destroy ? Ridiculous/Absurd; those German engineers weren't stupid... The best warning about the spinning speed dial, is to make sure you avoid even the slightest touching of it with your finger as the camera is being fired off...
thanks for sharing your experience. I think you may be right about the pressure plate assembly. I might add that the exposures aren't perfectly horizontal, suggesting some other issues. But otherwise it works OK. Just to be clear, that claim about destroying the camera at 8:44 is not something I made, I'm merely reporting what some have said and I clearly debunk that notion. But, importantly, I've heard the same claim made for Soviet copies of Barnack Leicas, so it is misinformation among some users of these cameras.
Maybe you bought the wrong camera ( Leica ) for your needs . Purist or not the M6 doesn’t have these issues. Old as hell doesn’t mean its good after all tech improves for a reason.
thank you for watching the show and for sharing your experience. I do have my own Leica M camera but not everyone can afford an M camera. If my show makes it easier for someone to use a Barnack, at a fifth of the price, that might be worth it. Cheers.
Sorry I don't have direct experience of either of these, so take what I say as just my opinion. Get the TTL if you particularly want to use flash. Otherwise I'd look for the best value for money body, noting that the MP can come in black paint as standard, if you prefer that. For a new body you may end up on a waiting list.
If money isn't an issue, definitely purchase the later model M camera (MP). This assures that you'll enjoy the latest multicoated Rangefinder unit. This translates to avoiding the one major complaint about the M6 & M6TTL models; the occasional flaring of the 2nd image focus device as you try to focus...
IIIa is the best Leica :3 I have M4 and IIIa but IIIa is better in my opinion :3 Much more smaller and m4 to me look heh .... not in my type. Oh about card... i use it and my camera was in service :/
thanks for sharing your experience. The M camera is easier to use but a Barnack camera like your IIIa is very satisfying when you get everything right. Cheers.
I have owned Leicas and still own a digital model. Leicas are crafted and have fantastic lens. Brilliant photos. You don't like? No problem. You can't afford to buy one.
A choice of a camera is like a painter choosing brushes. I bought my first M2 in the 70’s as used….a lot cheaper then. I also bought an a M3 about two years later. Both are still working great. I had a Nikon F which I gave to my brother when I bought my Nikon F2. When I started using my M’s I put my F2 on the shelf. I just prefer range finders for my type of photography.
Yeah. But it's fun to torture and infuriate yourself and mess yourself and others up out of frustration and impotent agony. Otherwise.. jesus will be out of a job as your savior and redeemer and there is enough unemployment as it is.
Leica only good in lenses. Their bodies are way too pricey. Just buy their lenses only and put on other bodies (such as NIKON etc). The result will be the same.