You should ask Cleetus for who fixed neighbor after that crashed. They cut the whole rear off and put one on. A quarter panel and a bit more sheet metal should be no problem, especially since you already have the donor.
@@firefly2472 I think the rear support, legs and aluminum sheeting should be fine. It's away from the battery and the wiring that is there is is probably found on most new cars, lights, reverse camera, hatch motor etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. If it was under body damage then that's a different story but that rear panel and quarter can be spliced and welded in. I'm sure Kyle isn't expecting a show car worthy finish, considering the car will probably be altered drastically in the future. The Tesla like most cars now is designed to crumple and absorb energy, engineers know not to put anything dangerous there because it's a impact zone. I did some time in a frame shop and that thought me how cars are built for safety and everything else comes second nowadays. My boss said any car pre 1970 was built for function first and then what ever was left for safety afterwards.
The quarter panels are very different between the P100D and the Plaid. Plaid has a wider arch to handle the wider rear track. Put the car on a frame machine and replace that rear panel , RH rail and the floor sections , most of the rear of Model S is held together with pop rivets and glue. Try and save the quarter.
I think he's doing a good job all things considered. Every Tesla crash I see, it gets totaled for the most insignificant damage ever, so I feel like no one wants to actually work on them. Electric cars are probably gonna become like phones, throw them out as soon as the smallest thing breaks after a couple years. But it's better for the environment, right???? 😁
Hey Kyle I seen your video about getting the Honda painted and wanting to upgrade the headlights if you are interested I can build you a set of custom retrofit headlights. If you are interested let me know we can work something out
I used to work for LKQ and sold "cuts" to body shops. A real legit body shop can cut the back of the car off, and weld your new one to it. When they are done you'll be hard pressed to notice anything. You'd have to crawl underneath and notice the welds.
I've worked in said bodyshops with those kinda panel beaters. Sometimes, even if you crawled underneath, you still wouldn't be able to tell it wasn't a normal repair with brand new parts or even a repair at all.
Exactly. Car damage and buckled metal always looks worse than it is when it's been rear ended. Roll overs, barrel rolls are a different story once all 4 wheels have left the ground
Kyle! That hatch and bumper might work with some parts swapped, I think they're pretty similar although both parts were changed slightly during the plaid facelift, hopefully just harnesses to get em working right. The quarter panels for the rear are definitely different, the older car you just picked up has skinner fenders then the plaid so if you do manage to get it to fit they wont be as wide as the rest of the body of the car, might still be fine and just look goofy but just in case someone else doesn't tell ya first, it might be good to know.
it's close enough a good body shop or maybe themselves if they put enough effort can get things lined up thru brute force on the pass. side. Take the frame rail from the other one and swap that out for sure though.
There is over $500 in doors on that rig! Sick buy buddy!! I honestly suspected you may be using the drivetrain from the plaid for the tube chassis civic lol. Cool idea if you do but either way excited to see what you do with both the plaid and the tube chassis civic 👍👍👍
Have you verified that a non -Tesla approved repaired car will ever be allowed to charge thru their network. I have a feeling you're in for a big surprise.
If your replacing the quarterpanel replace the rear panels too thats light work compared the quarter panel makes it easy to fix the inside too also gets your hatch to shut on the right place good luck boiz
Rear quarters probably wont fit, plaid facelift is significantly wider, and the car he picked up is pre facelift, hopefully he can still salvage the bumper cover and hatch though, looking hopeful on the hatch.
If they can get that quarter straightened out. Its easily within Kyles skill set to unstitch both the quarter AND the complete back panel (with the trunk lid striker/catch) off the parts car. I'd recommend a panel-beaters advice on the best places to cut the seams, as you only get one shot at that part. They did most of the hard part already tbf.
Your pull is mostly breaking welds, perhaps with a frame machine it would be possible. But doing it like this usually means it will not be approved by DOT.
Its not any wider, "new front bumper with additional air vents and new headlights. The Model S Plaid also has wider side skirts, a ducktail spoiler, and subtly revised 19-inch 'Tempest' alloy wheels"
Go to same day title inspection in Miami (hialeah) they get you in and out in 15 min with your inspection Complete , they are not too in depth with the inspection.
As long as you have a receipt in your name for the parts car you bought you can literally take it down like it is at the end of this video and you'll get your rebuilt title for it. I've rebuilt over 30 cars in the past 20+ years and dealt with the regional DMV at Netpark in Tampa and they are pretty easy to get along with. The main thing is to call occasionally and check their rule changes because they change all the time. When I first started doing it you didn't even have to fix blown airbags.
Same as Ohio, they only check to make sure stolen parts aren't on the car. They could give a fuck less how un-roadworthy it is. I'd drive that plaid anywhere though, I want one so bad.
@timcole421 the rules are perfect for private individuals doing it to keep the cars for a while. Unfortunately I've heard some horror stories about some of the shady crap resellers do to save a buck. In Florida tho you don't see too many big dealers that sell rebuilt title cars.
@@jasonpoletta1797 Or yet this is a good example of a "doctored" car in its current state. LOTS of people buy salvage and do a LOT worse (talking welding broken spindles back together) work to make them look nice then put them back on the auction block to sell to some sap who couldn't come look at the car. The only saving grace is I hope these end up in Nigeria or all the other foreign bidders that drive the price up on everything.
Out of the 2 integras that I’ve gone threw the rebuild process with in Florida. When I went to get the inspection, all they looked at was the vin and the mileage! They didn’t even look at the repair… You guys rule! Thanks for everything!
Yeah the salvage to rebuilt title process here in Indiana just required me to get a state trooper to sign a form saying that it was road legal, all he did on mine was check to make sure all of the lights worked
Put a strap through the right rear quarter and tie it up high on the tree with a ladder and drive forward, should pull it out and up and line everything up! It is looking 90% better even if the structure is still just as bad, hahaha.
Good luck to you fellas on this project. One thing's for certain to come out of it,, when you're done imaginee how much you'll learn about work'n with aluminum.. The Boosted Boyz [and our] realm of knowledge continues growing!
What do you think they will do? Just do an unlocked Fueltech FT700 Tesla Plaid or do you think they will try to do a crazy hybride? I don't really think a K something will fit for example, without an insane amount of work or maybe not even ever. I still hope the just do it the easy way and unlock the full power and speed with the upcoming Ingenext plugin unlock module for the Tesla S Plaid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0N95g8pM6Eg.html And then take it on some half mile drag events and do some weight mods and run it in Cleatus spectator drag.
"we're getting a new sidewalk, making that property value go up" **proceeds to drag a half burnt shell of a car across the driveway and park it beside a line of other half finished project cars** so much for the property value 🤣🤣🤣
For anyone interested the DMV will not be inspecting any damage repair done on salvage cars. All they care about are the airbags and vin numbers on any "major" parts replaced. It 100% is not a safety inspection. I've seen cars go through that didn't have any repair work done at all.
Maybe You need to Cut the good back parts from Other Tesla Out, and to weld it than with the original Factore mass on the original Factore points back on to your Tesla, and maybe you need to Cut also the left and ride Back Side stop Light walls, and to Change that to!!!
I just wanna say congrats to you guys. Kyle and Wyatt have been working so hard growing the channel over the last few years. It's awesome watching the progress.
@15:40 you're pointing and talking about the frame rail. That orange glue around the mounting point of the frame rail is the strongest glue I've ever dealt with. You will damage the casting trying to separate the rail from the hole it's in. That glue is stupid strong! You'll want to cut the rail off very close to the casing then cut pieces out and chisel at the glue and pry out the pieces. The rail goes about 3 inches into the casting. On the donor car carefully cut the cast piece away from the rail if you want to save the frame rail. I do believe you can find some OEM parts on ebay though.
Just burn both teslas to the ground, sure its fast, but its easy speed with no soul. (Just a fancy go kart) dont get me wrong, i love the content, and the cars. I actually really hope you plan on K swapping the tesla. That would be a beautiful thing that soo many people will hate on.
I'm sure you have thought of it since posting this but, doing the same process to bend the area for the hatch latch can be replicated using a higher point of pull on the tree. You will be able to utilize the tension of the angle and the torque from the motor to pull that pass. side upwards and out at the same time. Give me a shout-out if it works!
Kyle send that thing to a body shop just to be pulled on a frame machine it will probably cost you 500 bucks but they will pull it straight so you can cut out the bad metal and when you attach the new stuff it straight
Damn dude you need to put a piece of wood behind there and drill a hole through it and attach the hook to the wood and pull the whole thing at once you don't mash it like that you're defeating the purpose of what you're doing
Tie the quarter panel to the tree just like you did with everything else but tie it a little bit higher up on the tree so it pulls it up and out and that should do the trick 12:14
And you can pull the parts also with a Car Jack, If You put the Car Jack right in a good Position behind the tree and to fix IT first but realy good with the Stripes on the Car Jack behind the tree, and than a 2nd stripe on that point how you pump a Car with the Car Jack Up but with the Stripes right, and when you pump and the Car Jack goes Up with Stripes, i swear you can pull the parts with the Car Jack Out!!!🤔😂🤣😂🤣 😉👍
The Car Jack need to be in a good Position when you fix IT with the Stripes behind the tree, that you can Put the 2nd Stripe on the Car Jack point what goes under a Car, and the Stripe on the Car where you need to pull IT out , and than you can Beginn to start to Pump the Car Jack behind the tree, i swear you can pull the parts Out to 100%!!!??🤔🤔😂🤣😉👍
Boosted plaid here we gooooo! He is gng to do a Fuel Tech Hybrid Honda/Tesla deal. Or gng to try and add more battery's and or motors or both to be a "boosted" Plaid. Watch I am calling it now and did in the original video also thats what their top secret project is and will be. So pumped for it also
you should try to get at least the whole bottom rear of the donor , preferably do the passenger side rearquarter panel still atached too it , the spotwelds should be hidden away enough behind rubber sills inside bagage compartment and behind windows that you can rattlecan the bare spots after welding everything back together with a migwelder and not have to respray the car yes its more work but the car will be basicly back like it left the factory , seems like you be able to drill out everything without to mush throuble on the plaid after cutting away most of the damaged sheetmetal and with the donor you go the other way around and drill out from the backside my guess is the best thing to do is readying the piece cut off the donor is doing it in the grassy spot as that whont scratch the paintwork like a concrete floor would (would still tape a lot of it off with painterstape ) less likely to dent things too make pictures and measure between holes in the bodyworklike from the front seatbelt connection across to the other side and to a hole in the rear corner of the hatch sill , and then see if you can hit the same measurements on the plaid with the piece clamped on before final welding , probably be realy close after putting the new structural member in there and bolting it up to the rearpiece and rear quarter combo clamped around the rear doorsill you might need to get the rear of to slide the structural piece in there anyway so you might as well do it the right way try to save the windows of the donor , they probably be worth something to someone who had their testla broken intoo doors probably be worth enough to get youre investment on the donor back too please dont hack things up because youre in a hurry you got all the sheetmetal and its in the right colour to do it the right way
You should look into getting a power pack set. Hydraulic ram with different attachments to straighten frames and body damage. It will allow more control so you don't over stretch things and cause more problems.
I don’t know Florida rules but here in Washington the inspection for re licensing a totaled car they only want receipts for parts and make sure all the vin numbers match, that’s it. I did it with a truck I totaled and didn’t even fix it and it passed.
Kyle you gotta use both hands and hit it with your purse my guy. Just kidding bro. All jokes aside when it's all said and done even if you just fix it you got one hell of a deal. I'm a gasoline engine man at heart but I would personally love to have that car in my garage!
Now you have 2 Chassis, so rebuild the Model S, K swap the Plaid and transfer the electric drivetrain out of the Plaid into the Model S! Then Ta-da! A K-Swap Plaid and a Tesla Model Sleeper!
I was thinking when you were trying to pull the rear quarter up to meet the hatch that if you pull it out at the bottom of the quarter section, it should twist upward because the impact of that crash may have pushed the bottom part in causing the whole quarter to twist downward.
I hope this swap works and you get the plaid fixed up, but from my understanding the plaid is a total remodel in terms of engineering and so on, so nothing should be straight swappable without minor modifications through-out
