So, a few things: 1) Lost steps are caused by driving your steppers faster than the machine can move, or excessive load on the machine. EMI might affect the connection from the PC to the driver board, but if you have a Ethernet or USB connection, that's very unlikely. Fix is to adjust the acceleration and max speed for your steps on the motor tuning panel. Also make certain you've properly tuned the drivers for resonance. 2) CV vs exact stop: not usually an issue, unless you're dealing with an inside corner with a sharp, acute angle. Outside corners are generally implemented by CAM software using G2/G3 arcs to roll around the corner. Even on inside corners I've never seen an issue. It's going to depend a lot on the acceleration limits that you've configured into the system. I think the real lesson is that you need to adjust or replace the ballscrews.
I built this machine as well, and spent close to 200 hours doing it meticulously. One thing I noticed, the aluminum couplers between the steppers and the screws are a weak link. You can't tighten the screws enough to keep friction on the 8mm shafts. I ordered 8mm couplers that are 30mm x 40mm, and I upgraded the steppers so they have 3x the torque for holding purposes, especially when directions are changed quickly. I'm still waiting on the couplers from StepperOnline out of China. The larger steppers I have, also have longer shafts as far as I can tell...so the bigger couplers should help. On one of my original couplers, the screws stripped with very little torque applied, so I went with 4mm screws after drilling and tapping...that seemed to work better. Once I get the mill working, I'll probably fabricate couplers out of steel, and just use the rubber bushings, or maybe go with a friction clutch design.
Its advertised to hold down 10 micron accuracy which is 0.01mm which is less than 1 tenth of an inch. If you tried your best in setting it up it means it won't never reach those tolerances. However I know for a fact that setting up CNCs that holds tenths needs expensive and proper tools like dial gauges and granite surface plates to properly install, without it you'll never get one tenths.
I ran Mach3 on a Tormach for over 15 years, and did not experience the accuracy problems you are finding. In my opinion, this machine doesn't look rigid enough to machine metals. I am considering it though to machine holes in plastics. Good video, well done.
Amazing video! I’m currently putting mine together, and found in missing some components as well. I’m glad yours is up and running, I’m not far behind 😁
@@joeygonzo Lots went on since then, I had the machine put together and working but there were some major structural issues with the machine from the get go. The main steel extrusions were nowhere near straight, causing the machine to have a .013 variance in Z across the bed. I ended up damaging the main bed that wasnt supposed to be cut in an attempt to make it straight. It still cut .013" off. I tore down the machine and had all the pieces machined flat. I have a new controller (MASSO G3 touch), automatic way lube pump, a tool setter, spindle probe, Saunders machine works work plate, dual custom mod vise, and made a coolant manifold similar to how HAAS machines have. I'm almost done putting it together. Hopefully now it will cut straight
It would be a good idea to do what nearly every mach3 user I know has done. Remove it, replace it with an acorn and start enjoying the actual machine. Some years ago I fought the same issues with Mach, in addition, a lot of instability and even irreversible corruption of their files. Although I am running real servos on the Acorn, so lost "steps" isn't possible, it might be something for you to look into - maybe your stepper motors are the issue.
just came across this and thought to share about stepper motor calibration in Mach 3 goto settings and click on Axis calibration and follow the method and all is setup in no time at all
A lot of what you are seeing in terms of lack of responsiveness in the user interface is probably attributable to Windows 7 and Mach 3 running on a (relatively) slow Athlon CPU. At machine run time it's probably adequate, but Windows has a lot going on in the UI. I would expect LinuxCNC, which is an actual real-time OS to manage things much better. I will be interested to see if you can get it running on your hardware. Thanks for this video.
it's interesting when adjust the step by rev but you put your machine in inch but your lead screw are in mm. My first cnc was cnc router with a lead screw in mm and i have the same issue but i cut mostly wood. When time come with metal it's a other story your lead screw are in mm put yours mahine in mm. I purchase this mahine but i will configure in mm and i hope a better accuracy. At this point i have a assue with my Z proximity switch not respond and coolant pump and the VFD.
get new ballscrews, get the "c5" grade from dakai from china, they are top notch for the price. spend time to really learn how to mount a ballscrew properly on the fixed end, you need to set the tightness with bend washer which act as a spring. you can also get better, proper bearings fpr the fixed side, usually there are only deep groove bearings inside, which are ok if mounted properly but proper bearings are the best choice. this is all not that expensive for such a lil machine and will yield great results.
hey, i too bought this one.. and its been 2 months and still not being able to get it to working. i had to get board and mach3 controller replaced and still probes are not functioning. and when ever endstops hits, i need to remove the sensors wires to get it running otherwise its jammed.
Really enjoyed your video! Looking for some help on my own machine. Would really like to see how you connected the grounds to the mach3 board. I got all functions working but my round out sensors aren’t working. If I switched the blue and brown wire I could make it work. I also am having an issue with my probes not working for my machine properly. Thank you!
out of curiosity did you take calipers and measure the dia of your endmills before you created your Gcode? and have you trammed the head on the milling machine in for roll and tilt?
@@chrisb4961doesn’t rounding the corners of a square make it into a circle? Pretty sure the corners make it a square a square. And rounding the corners will make it into a circle
@@d_sykut okay....the radius of the corners is not even in question here....did you watch the video? What I am referring to is the affect of CV on the outside dimension of what looked to be a contoured square or call it a square-ish if you like. Maybe its a square wanting to identify as a circle...that's okay too....:)
Thanks for the video. Great stuff. Just got mine put together. Unfortunately, when I power it up and plug it in to the computer, its giving me an "Emergency Button Pressed" message, preventing me from being able to do anything. I've checked the E-stop button and all the wiring, everything has power, and I've played around with the wires for the green button on the front of the machine. I'm pretty sure the issue lies with the green button wiring and interface with the circuit board, but haven't been able to get anywhere. Have you had similar issues?
I havent had any hardware issues like that, all the wiring I did for the E-Stop and Cycle Start button (green button) turned out fine. Make sure under "Config > Ports and Pins > Input Signals" you see that your E-Stop input is set as active low. Something that did bother me thats somewhat related is when the machine hit the limit switches I couldnt reset the estop in order to move the machine back. The board doesnt support an additional input for the limit override, so you could wire the green button to the limit override instead of making it start the job. But just take a look at your inputs for the estop and limit override and make sure thats set right for your setup. Hope that helps!
@@SciCynicalInventing It was the E-stop setting. Can't believe I spent so much time thinking it was an electrical problem. Know its on to figure out why my spindle motor doesn't spin despite making noises like it is. You were right about being patient with this thing. It's definitely making me questions some decisions, hahaha.
I just finished building mine - but I am having issues with the end stop saying it is triggered when it is obviously not. Could you go into more detail on how you fixed that issue? What wires did you ground from the end stops?
I only took those black wires coming off the limit switches and i ONLY connected them directly to the x, y, and z limit connections on the mach3 board. Leaving the ribbon cable connection taped off (you can see the black tape on the wires in the video). Hope that helps.
@@SciCynicalInventing that did help, thanks! There seems to be one problem after another with this machine. Now it won’t run gcode correctly lol. I have a feeling it is going to be a while before I actually make any cuts with it.
I also had that problem, I had to add 4.7k ohm resistors in line with the to get them to work. You might also notice traming issues with the head, I had to shim the plates that mate the Z to the X. Build plate is nowhere near straight to even mate the aluminum one on. Problems will definitely arise one after another, however it’s a great learning experience for any machinist.
Shariff dmc on youtube channel has hardly been updated. He promised a complete tutorial on running the machine and he hasn't done that. He stopped after 9 videos.
I was thinking of making a follow-up video to this, maybe showing a linuxcnc conversion because the control board is a cheapo chinese board specifically designed for mach3 that is controlled via usb. I was thinking of getting an inexpensive mesa card for it. But before I do that would a tutorial on running the machine, making a file, and setting up the touch-off probes be of any interest?
I think I know why you get inconsistent results. Your Mach3 has a weird license name... is it actually registered to you? It looks like a pirated version. I've read on the Mach3 forums that the developers put code in the Mach3 software to make the program do strange things if the user had a pirated license (which would explain why you get inconsistent results)! I know this because it happened to me. The second I downloaded a current version of Mach3 executable from the official website I purchased a license and... the problems I was experiencing went away. I hope that helps
I'm confused. You (everyone) should get a (Mach 3)config file for this machine so you don't have to configure at all... Also, you are using backlash wrong. Also, you don't want to use exact stop. ALSO... MACH 3 sucks.. Trust me I've used it for 20+ years. Go with a Masso (no computer needed) or "Acorn" - I'm just about to switch to Acron because I like a PC attached to my machine. Your CAM software should be adjusting speeds and feeds instead of letting. Most even have the backlash comp in the software. I've tried to keep it short because I this video is 7 months old and im sure you figured most of what I've said out already.
Not sure what you mean. This is a very capable piece of kit for that price range. Compared to a Bantam or Avid Benchtop Pro you're getting a lot more for the money.
5k it's not bad at all. I'd be interested to see after you sourced all the parts cut and machined yourself you could or would sell this for cheaper. If so what are you waiting for?
