i build a mid century modern dining table - woodworking fail 

Haha not my finest moment, but hopefully somebody else can learn from it! Thank you!

I’m assuming you’re talking about the 1/8” roundover? You are right, but I’ve found that for those little roundover bits, grain direction doesn’t really matter. I do climb cut most of the time on my corners though!

Haha I appreciate it man! Can’t have it all (especially being fairly new to the game like myself) but it sure will be nice one day! Thanks for watching, hope you enjoyed the video!

Glad it helped!

Thank you! I appreciate you watching the video and hope you enjoyed it. I’ll definitely look to add a little more final results footage. It’s a tough balance because I want to show the piece, but if I have too much at the end, people leave the video and it’s bad for the RU-vid algorithm! Check out the highlight bubbles on my IG if you want to see more of this table!

Thanks for watching! I love hearing feedback. I actually watched this video back for the first time yesterday and I agree, I definitely cut the final reveal too short! Wood brackets would have been nice, but metal was just quick and easy this time!

It’s honestly not something I would wish upon my worst enemy lol

I don’t have plans for this at the moment, but I am considering making some. Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!

I appreciate it! I typically use 1/4 x 20 threaded inserts for most everything. As far as leveling feet, I just get the most heavy duty option I can that will fit the size of the legs!

Unfortunately I don’t think C-channel would have saved me here. The bow developed through the glue ups because of bad joints/over clamping. I hadn’t thought about it as a possible fix, but for a less severe bow in a table, that might work!

I appreciate it! In theory yes! I’ve never tried something like that, but I’m guessing it would be a little tricky to get it truly dead flat.

Very cool

Of course! A table top this size will get wider and more narrow depending on the seasons. When you use threaded inserts and an oversized hole (on the metal brackets for this table) it allows the wood to move without putting pressure on the screw holding it in!

I don’t currently offer plans, but I have been getting a lot of requests for them so I might offer some in the future!

These brackets are only meant to hold the tabletop down, not prevent it from bowing or cupping. As far as something like a breadboard, that’s not really necessary if you are using wood that has been dried and milled correctly. Breadboard ends would probably be the best way to prevent any movement over time, but a lot of people don’t like the look of them

@@alteredgraincustoms9891 but right now they are also completely constricting the expansion and contraction of the table top. also last i checked, breadboards are used to prevent cupping, definitely not for *preventing movement* edit: i noticed now that you mention that the holes are *oversized* to allow for some movement, which I didn't notice at fist. I'm still a bit hesistant since they still look pretty restrictive.

For sure! This is a bit long winded, but here you go. They both serve a different purpose. When you water pop, the grain for the wood raises and leaves it feeling a bit rough. If it was the moisture in the finish rather than just water, it would feel rough but you couldn’t resand the wood without stripping off the finish. So water popping is a great way to get around that problem. Pre-stain is for the color of the finish. Maple wood tends to get kind of blotchy when you stain it. A pre-stain mixture like I used here just helps the wood accept the color in the stain more evenly. Hope that helps!

@@alteredgraincustoms9891 Thanks!

They actually do help with wood movement. The oversized holes of the metal brackets (like I used on this project) let’s the bolts keep downward pressure while still allowing so lateral movement

I’ve never thought of it that way, but that’s a decently accurate comparison