I Built a Welding Fixture Table 

Dipping my toes into the world of welding was fun. I went the extra mile and made plans for this project. Check them out and support these videos: mariushornberger.com/products/welding-fixture-table-plans

A German engineer that says good enough with a 0.1 mm tolerance on his first welding project. Well done sir and a tip of the hat to you.

After having to have tiny slivers of steel removed from my right eye twice now, i always wear a full face shield. The crazy thing is, both times i was wearing safety glasses. Well... first time was glasses, the second time were these dewalt goggles which had a little gap near the nose that a piece flew in, bounced and hit my eye.

I can't remember ever having seen welding shot with exposure that let me see what was happening. At first, I didn't realize that's what you had done, but it's super interesting to see. Now I wish everyone who welds in RU-vid videos would do that!

Decisive step drill victory.

Love the tungsten grinder! Sharing the plans would make the world a better place :)

Very nice! Video and of course the welding table. I would just be too lazy to drill so many holes! VG Manni

Welds look pretty good! the heat from welding doesn't actually warp the part (once it has cooled to a consistent temp). Most of the warping comes from the decrease in density during the phase change (moving from liquid to solid).

Awesome build! From a welding perspective. Don't hesitate to crank amps up, it will help with heat transfer (more amps, less time welding, less heat goes outside of welding area), and get yourself a welding pedal, it will be night and day difference.

Hey man thevwelds are coming along. One of the biggest game changers for me on tig was one be comfortable and two don't be afraid to put stuff under your elbows so you don't get fatigue mid weld

Markus...I recently watched a vlog that explaned WHY using brake fluid to clean steel before welding is not just TOXIC, its LETHAL. !!!!!💀 More than welding galvanised steel.... YIIIIKES !!!!!

Excellent video. I love it so much that you are so honest about your flaws. But, you made something that I will always dream of having. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and details.

Amazing project. You can make excentric dogs with expandable lock to compensate for the small errors in the table. That way you can always get perfect alignment. Excellent content as usual.

As an mechanical Engineer, i ould say, really well done. you can mill 0.1 mm from the top, this is jsut for aditional paralelity., but even now it looks and is amazing, and in 99% of the time will do the job.

Thats the love and patiance which is missing today but made „made in germany“ to what it was once known for

Suddenly buying a $1200 fixture table seems pretty worth it. P.s. Excellent job, my friend! WOW!!

Brilliant as usual👍 Regards, Der Vorrichtungsbauer 😊

Nice work!

Absolutely love this clip thanks. Have picked up a few ideas not only for this project but others

2:05 inlay the saw on a shelf bellow the bench/table so that materials are always a the right Hight flush with it

A big project with an excellent outcome. At some point in the future you might consider manufacturing an Optical Centre Punch for the table. It allows you to more accurately centre punch for holes.

Wow, what a great project again. Just as always ^^ And I know I may sound too carefuo now, but always remember to keep the air circulation when welding. Argon is heavier then air and could build up in closed room when you are welding for a long time :)

Excellent. Enough detail to inspire any DIY guy. U.S., Arizona. Subscribed today. Thank you.

This was an awesome video!!! I love the DIY world. Personally i think you could not do better unless you had a warehouse full of machines.

So nice to see everything done in metric for a change

Marius, they’re not called needles 💉, they’re called Tungsten (or, if you prefer, Wolfram). Nice Tungsten sharpener. Nice table design too. Thanks.

One could get 16mm shoulder bolts to use as stops instead of turning then. For those buying an entry welder on the cheap, get a MIG/flux-core welder and use it in gasless flux-core mode where the flux protects the weld puddle from oxygen. Remember to verify the flux-core mode is set up with the proper electrode polarity (opposite the MIG-mode polarity).

Holy crap, that flame finishing was artfully done. I'm in awe. Okay, your issue with your table welds wasn't that you weren't able to weld properly when you tried at first. You last weld of the video is like, easy proof of it. You might need more practice for your beads, but that's not your main issue right now. The main issue that you need to deal with is that was your stumbling block on the table welding is learning how to deal with a slight gap in between your pieces (i.e. when you can't weld on a mating that's 90 degrees). To fix this you need to approach it with the idea that not every thing you weld together will be accomplished with one pass. So you practice on setups of non-ideal conditions, like introducing gaps in the mating surface that you'll have to build up before joining together, and so on.

Mate, awesome work, great looking table and features!

Very nice video - Thank you

I'd love to see a collab between you and @FireballTool sometime. I know it's hard to do across an ocean, but man, you two are such ingenious makers...

beautiful first transition to dark when putting on the mask. :)

Smaller steel stock with the face seam doesn't seem worth the hassle, except Marius needed it for 50mm on center holes. Not being a welder I'm curious if using another hole pattern just using all wide bars would work better?

Your hole saw wobbling back and forth is most likely a runout issue, for the people who don’t know what runout is, it’s essentially just that, the drill wobbling back and fourth. You can test it with a dial test indicator. To drill the proper size hole with as little inaccuracy as possible your runout should be 0.0002” or 0.005mm. Unfortunately tight runout tolerances are very hard to achieve with a drill press, the drill chuck also tends to exaggerate runout. To deal with this issue you can remove the chuck and reveal the Morse taper. You can then use an adapter to hold the drill in the taper. That will help you gain some accuracy. You have to spend a good amount of money on the adapter though, buy it from a reputable manufacturer, otherwise you’ll just be back where you were with the drill chuck. Another option could have been just using a reamer instead of using the step drill as a reamer. Also if you’re going to buy any new tools in the future, a milling machine that’s of similar size to your lathe would be a good thing to get.

"In true beginner fashion this piece needs to go on this piece."

good work .

I feel like a lapping plate would do wonders here. Make the table flat

It's cool what you worked through to figure out correct hole size, but I have to ask; why not just cut out the hole saw and just use the step bit? That's pretty much what they're made for.

Please share that tungsten sharpening jig model! Would love to print that for our shop :)

Hiding from cutting sparks behind a sheet of plywood? Thats new haha, i guess if your not use to it, having red hot metal sparks coming at you sounds pretty rough, but if it bugs you enough I recomend an old leather jacket, might not protect you a 100% like blocking with a sheet of plywood but at least youll look cool while being safe haha, anyway cool project 👌

Hello Marius awesome build , but I'm more impressed about this tig rod sharpener adapter , mindblowing . 18:09 Are you gonna share plans ? :D

welding consistency comes from welding in comfortable position. Don’t float your elbow.

The most German video i saw in a long time 😂 Nice project MH!

I propably would just using a boring bar setup for these holes

I feel like you could've gotten the holes done with a stepless step drill bit and an index mark

100$ of material + 300$ of men's work :D

Can I please place an order. I'll drive through to come and collect? 😊

WOOOOW nice

I wish I could get such material in metric, would be so convenient, instead I have to deal with imperial unit bullshit.

Chlorinated brake cleaner is a big boo boo when you add a welding Arc to it it makes phosphagen gas is it more preferable to use xylene or acetone and that's your tip from a pro welder in the US

Hallo Marius, vielen Dank für dein schönes Video. Warum hast du nicht deine CNC Maschine benutzt, um die Löcher zu fräsen? Wäre es damit nicht einfacher, schneller und wiederhol genau gewesen? Schönen Sonntag wünscht dir Markus

Watched the video and decided to buy the tabletop with holes for a few hundred

Is the Tig tip grinder 3d file available anywhere, that's brilliant

What material is that sweater made from? If it's polyester, you are better off going without. I know a guy who almost died when his polyester shirt caught fire from the spark from an angle grinder.

Посмотреть какие проблемы с простым сверлением отверстий, так напрашивается мысль - может проще купить, чтобы заниматься основной задачей, а не изготовлением инструментов для неё.. Ведь можно и молоток самому делать и струбцины и даже сварочный аппарат можно собрать самому. Но зачем, когда можно купить? А делать нужно то, что не продается готовое, либо то за что тебе много заплатят!

Great video like everytime. But i also would like to print the Dremel TIG grinding head. Will you upload it at thingiverse, too?

How long did this take you in total?? Appreciate you dipping the light around the weld. Yes I know I won't get welders eye but being photosentitive it does actually hurt, so I appreciate that. You can put all the mild steel plugs and chips in the same box and sell them to a black smith or do. Coop with a channel that makes Damascus steel using those :)

Hard work for small iron table...

Vraiment plus simple acheter une table que de la faire.

link to the metal cutting blade for the saw please?

Ich empfehle einen digitalen Winkelmesser :D

When society comes to an end due to nuclear bombs and we have to rebuild the world, I want to be on Marius's team.

not great idea to make that out of regular 3mm pipe. to soft and manuvable and flexing do to temperatur. there is a reason why real fixtures uses heavy lasercut steel plating that is machined into spec (not sure of material but atleast 355 or 410). what are the tolerances and pression on the marker tape. think you may just have over done it but not got the results worth the effort, but i may be wrong, but dont think you can trust a marker tape below 1 mm precision. ps think your grinding angle for the tungsten is abit steap, long time since i done it but recall more like 45 deg or so.

Napravi čovek celu nauku od bušenja rupa. Ni za 'ladnu vodu ne bi zaradio !

what are you doing step reamer?

Did someone see the beginner he was talking about the whole video?

13:56 - ah shame - you could have purchased a reamer for the same cost as ur stepped hole drill.

Great video and channel! Best wishes for the USA!!

superb excellent video thanks

Wo hast du dein Material bestellt? Wenn ich in Österreich die gleichen Rechteckrohre bestellen will bin ich bei weit über 300€. jede info wäre toll

Guys guys,guys.....he's into welding now.... In a few videos time he will be building his own water jet machine eith better features than a commercially available machine

Hey professional welder here, by the quick clip at 17:23 it seems like your using too much gas. It also looks like your using a cup size 7 or 8, a general rule of thumb is taking the cup size and adding 2. That gives you your desired gas flow, with a little bit extra for any leaks. Whenever I adjust my gas flow I light up on a scrap piece and if there is no "scratching" noise as the amps slump down, then I know I got the right flow set. If it does still scratch, then it's just a matter of adjusting it up or down and trying again. Initial slump up (or slope) isn't generally something I use, it's annoying when tacking and only useful when you wanna restart on a weld with a bit better penetration. But avoid making the bead any wider right at the start. So for aesthetics basically. 20:42 THIS, it's by no means perfect but these few seconds are how you "should" be welding all the time. The excessive angle of your torch isn't technically correct, but it does reduce penetration and thusly reduce warping. 10-20 degrees from perpendicular is the "correct" angle. 20:47 it's miles better, notice how the weld initially "wets out" smoothly in the beginning and then sort of folds up on itself a few dips later? What's happening is your initially welding with the correct amount of heat in the weld puddle, (THIS, it's not the amount of heat applied, its how hot the puddle is.) for those initial few dips you are welding at the correct speed. But as you were getting started you applied more heat than needed, so you succesfully made use of the excess heat but then failed to compensate (slowing down slightly) when this excess heat ran out. 20:57 use thinner filler wire, I would say a 1,6 would be plenty for this. 2,0 and you sort of have to use another dipping technique in order to not dramatically change how hot the weld puddle is with every single dip of filler. 21:49 If you had extra pipe available I would've tacked them on as a strongback in order to prevent warping, you'd still get some but much MUCH less than you'd expect.

Awesome build! I learnt some great things watching!!!

Instead of Brake Cleaner PLEASE USE ACETONE when welding!!! John Cadogan talks about the tragic Phosphene gas generated by heating Brake Cleaner indoors when welding causing a non-recovery in the patient.

That 3D printed jig for sharpening tungsten bits is **chef's kiss** Awesome project and thanks for sharing your process!

For the Welding part, when you get used to it and build muscle memory, you'll heat your workpieces less if you up the amps on your welder en weld faster, that's why you were having trouble early with the 110 amps setup compared to the 130 amps setup. Great job for a beginner that's a nice project!

Dude, I'm a fabricator, and your welds need work, but my God, that tolerance and checking technique with the tools you have is just beautiful to watch. I absolutely love your videos.

You could lift the bottle with the hose to stop the transfer to keep from having to aim liquid a meter up from your bottle :)

Weld two pieces of scrap from your weld table with the same weld settings. Then cut through the weld on your cool saw, then you can check that your weld is penetrating the metal stock correctly. You have the best RU-vid channel.

"And since step drills aren't the most precise tools in the world, it made the exact hole size I was looking for." When you can sarcasm that good, you have a very good handle on English as a second language.

normal sagt man ca. 40A pro MM - da bist du mit den 130 besser bedient als mit den 110 - was ich aber empfehlen kann, ist ein fußpedal, da kannst du dann direkt reagieren und entweder mehr oder weniger leistung geben, z.b wenn du ans ende der naht kommst, langsam die leistung rausnehmen, so dass du die ecken nicht wegbläst

I Just Love how he builds Stuff so insanely accurate and perfect in His basement Workshop. I know people that do welding for a living and would never Put that amount of precision and perfection in a welding table

I think you should indicate your pilar drill spindle and see what's going on. I know that bits can be curved slightly, which is not great, but if the spindle is running out of true, that will compound your issues.

Wore a sweater and used a wooden shield? Heh.

200 holes made in a bunch of operations... HOLE-LY CRAP I applaude your endurance and patience and congratulate you with the results!!

with all the holes, perhaps you can make a fume extractor that draws the fumes down through the table, away from you. Great build. Thank you for sharing!

looks extremely similar to Manfred Weldings design

I've never been a good welder but I'm an Expert Grinder!

Your bit is wobbling which is pretty normal in most drill press and shops, therefore if you use a vice for your base metal its fixed and that bit play will make your hole bigger, therefore if you hold it slightly by hand it actually helps you and allows your base metal to play together with a bit and your hole ends up more precise.

You should share the tungsten tip grinding guide plans! Really cool.

Nicely done! I had a local company laser cut 6 mm steel plate with holes, slots and tabs for me. Just weld together. Was about 130 Euro. Found the drawings online. The biggest difference for me when tig welding was swapping out the large handle with the buttons and going for a much smaller ck torch and a foot pedal...so much more control, will never go back.

wow I might actually have to do this!

Any plans for the steel chips?

I like as this channel is becoming metal working channel. I can't wait for you to build diy metal lathe and milling machine

What a massive amount of work!! But the results are top tier! I love that you can put this to the side against the wall, make adjustments as needed and it is so affordable. Great work all around! 👍

babe wake up new marius hornberger video

The biggest issue with your welds is consistency of when you add filler to your puddle and how consistent your lateral movement is. I suggest walking the cup a bit less i.e. decreasing the amplitude of your oscillations, upping the current some more, and being extremely cogniscent about adding the filler always at the same point in your oscillation. Torch angle is REALLY important here. Your filler must NEVER melt before touching the puddle. If you don't manage to achieve this, decrease arc gap and/or adjust torch angle accordingly

that's just amazingly accurate i am blown away

Tips: - more heat = easier weld = more distortion due to the localized heating expanding the metal. Practice with lower amperage. - Depending on the materials you weld, you need higher amperage, for instance welding (or rather brazing) copper needs a torch due to copper's extreme heat conductivity. - Some materials do not weld together - high carbon steel has higher heat conductivity, meaning HSS for instance can be welded but you need to crank it up a lot more - You need to adjust your filler speed based on the amount of heat you put in, and stay consistent with your movement, which is why your welds do not look good, there's times you're approaching the fill rod, then moving it back. Welding colder allows you to keep feeding the fill rod in a consistent manner - With MIG and TIG you need some place for the weld to go. You could have ground chamfers on the weld spots on each piece in order to make a deeper V groove for the weld to fill up. - Prepping your weld surfaces is important, as oxides can form very quickly. So a bit of sandpaper on the surface right before welding is a good idea to have the welds penetrate deeper.

I love your videos, but welding after using brake cleaner is no bueno for your health... really a bad idea to transfer to people who don't know better.