what probably happened to the joycon was that one of the 2 ribbon cables either shorted the board due to a bad connection or the cable got jammed. either way, it won't work if it's docked, but it SHOULD work if you can somehow power the joycon on wirelessly.
@@M4r10h it would help if nintendo didn't make the insides more fragile than a pringle, but after a bit of practice, u eventually get it right every time.. but my god have I broken a lot of joycons because of this. 😂😂
I'm glad you covered the hall effect sticks! I've been using them ever since that company had their initial test batch a year ago. They've gotten a lot better and I personally can't stand using pot based sticks anymore. Nearing 800 hours without drift.
@@Ali.F Absolutely! My controller from them (KingKong 2 pro) didn’t drift in over 800 hours. The switch lite replacement I did hasn’t drifted in over 100 compared to under 100 I used to get.
Why do you have a picture with an extra side screen on the picture of the video come on? That’s why I watched it stuff like this. This is why I’m subscribing fake.
I did that same extreme rate shell swap. I did use the piece for the bottom that you chose to skip, it added like an hour to the time it took me to do it all due to how much you have to disassemble and it being my first ever shell swap. But the clear glacier blue color wound up looking great and all my buttons worked perfectly. Took me forever to do it but I'm happy I did. Also I swapped out the joycon slide locks for metal ones to prevent wear and keep them from breaking. I will eventually swap out the new 3d analogue joysticks I put in for the hall sensing ones tho. Good video guys.
Glad you mentioned the Mclassic again, been a long time since i've heard anyone talk about it. It still is a viable option for people who do not have nvidia 30 gpus to use vsr with.
Austin is like the kid presenting a class project while also trying to sound professional and holding the urge to not join the laughter that ken and matt started lol
I've had something very similar to that "ultimate Switch controller" for a few years now. It's by far the best way to play the Switch in handheld mode, if you're willing to tolerate the additional bulk.
I get Gulikit hall effect that was awesome. So, a few better accessories first: hori split pad compact /pro . 2nd: 8bitdo ultimate controller. 3rd: Buying the Mcable, not the dongle , is so much better, and finally, a neio grip I think 🤔
0:32 if you have the games downloaded to an SD card then it shouldn’t be a problem if Nintendo decides to shut down the Switch eshop. I don’t buy digital switch games because there’s no real need to.
Ngl the only thing that would fuck me up is that using a white transparent cover will get yellowed. i know there is probably other coloured covers but it would fuck me up so much too
I think if there is a next gen switch it should share the joycon attachments and should include new joycons with no drift and so that you can use your old switch accessories
Why did you get the retro flag? That thing has a tendency to scratch the rails, I mean if you were chosen and Nexico grip con or the nitro deck, it would’ve made more sense
One thing about these guys is they have no respect for the things they hold in these videos, the way he handles the oled and many other consoles in these videos is straight disrespectful
Actually just installed the atomic purple version of the Extremerate shell last week. Getting the bottom piece switched out took a solid couple hours but it definitely looks better with it.
Gaming PCs are computers specifically designed to handle video games with ease. They typically come equipped with high-performance components such as fast processors, powerful graphics cards, and large amounts of RAM to provide smooth and responsive gameplay. One of the benefits of gaming PCs is that they can be customized to meet individual needs and preferences. Gamers can choose from a wide variety of components to build a system that suits their specific requirements, whether that be for high frame rates, ultra-high graphics settings, or both. Gaming PCs also offer the ability to upgrade components over time, allowing gamers to keep their systems up-to-date and capable of handling the latest games. In contrast, many gaming consoles become outdated more quickly and cannot be upgraded in the same way. While gaming PCs can be expensive, they offer a high level of performance and customization that many gamers find to be well worth the investment. With the right components, a gaming PC can provide an immersive and enjoyable gaming experience that is hard to achieve with other types of computers.
The games won’t disappear though. You can even copy the micro SD card to your computer or copy it over multiple times across multiple cards to save your digital games after the shop shuts down. But also it’s Nintendo, most Nintendo games retain their value so you’re better off buying them physically.
"I'm not entirely sure what the inside of the switch OLED looks like" you literally released a video where you opened it and compared the heatsink to the OG switch 😂
Problem is with some of the physical games for the switch is they only put some of the game on the cartridge and you have to download the rest. So some physical games will be useless in the future too if need to download them when the servers are gone.
im at minute 1. but since you dont want to buy Eshop games you can "dump" ur cartridge games into the 1Tera sd card and the cartride its :read ony: so its not gonna damage it.
by the time they decide to take down the store and games you own it'd have already been hacked well-enough to get the games in an alternative manner and/or extract save data
I bought an mClassic a while back and it's great for use with the docked Switch. Just keep in mind that it will only upscale by one step. That means it takes 720p and makes it 1080p, it will take 1080p and make it 1440p, and take 1440p and make it 4K. The higher the input resolution the better the upscaled image looks.
Are you able to get 1440p working on the Switch with a 4k TV? My TV (TCL 646) supports 1440p but the Switch will only do 1080p with my mClassic. I've read something about it being because the Switch outputs 1080p/60hz and the mClassic will only upscale to 1440p if the input is 1080p/30hz. I saw something about needing a frame rate limiter or something but never looked into it further. I can still notice a difference in the the jagged edges when flipping the mClassic off and on but I'd really like to see it at 1440p.
@@l_burn Only some games are even capable of 1080p @ 30/60FPS output in docked mode, and most of those just use a dynamic resolution setting that drops back to 720p when the FPS drops below 30/60. If the mClassic sees the source drop to 720p it will default to upscaling 1080p until you restart the input source. Because of this I just force 720p output in the settings to maintain 60 FPS.
@@TheZoenGaming awesome info, thank you. I'll have to switch between a few games and see if any of them actually hit 1440p, I only really tested it with BotW. I've actually had it for a year or so and left it on because, even without 1440p, there's a recognizable improvement to lines/edges. Also seems to make colors a little more vibrant on my TV.
@@l_burn According to reddit, a few games are locked in to 1080p in docked mode, but people have reported that their FPS is wonky as heck and never stable. Just remember that for the Switch you want the green light lit up on the mClassic slider.
@@l_burn If 4K is really important to you, you can try adding the 4K Gamer Pro to the mClassic. It's supposed to take any 1080p source and upscale it straight to 4K.
