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I Captured a DYING STAR with only a Camera, Lens, & Tripod 

Nebula Photos
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Photographing the Dumbbell Nebula from start to finish! Visit brilliant.org/... to get started learning STEM for free, and the first 200 people will get 20% off their annual premium subscription.
Alternate Ending with Different Software
Part 2a - SIRIL and GIMP: • I Captured a DYING STA...
I am on Patreon! / nebulaphotos
This video was sponsored by Brilliant.
Additional Footage
Title: Artist’s animation of the Sun becoming a red giant
Credit: ESA/Hubble (M. Kornmesser & L. L. Christensen), CC BY-SA 3.0 IGO
Adaptations: I manipulated the speed of the animation and added soundtrack/narration
Title: A planetary nebula dissipating (Artist's impression):
Credit: ESA/Hubble (M. Kornmesser), CC BY-SA 3.0 IGO
Adaptations: I manipulated the speed/color of the animation and added soundtrack/narration
Music
Milky Way Express by Lupus Nocte, Licensed from Epidemic Sound
www.epidemicso...

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30 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 193   
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Visit brilliant.org/NebulaPhotos/ to get started learning STEM for free, and the first 200 people will get 20% off their annual premium subscription.
@paulcarlson2091
@paulcarlson2091 2 года назад
To help keep track of the different sections of images (light, dark, flats and bias), I take a an image with a small red LED light before starting each group. It's easy to pick these out when previewing my images on camera or computer.
@ycanerol
@ycanerol 2 года назад
An alternative is to make folders for each type of frame in the camera. Start with test shots; once you find your target quickly go to Menu>Select folder>New folder. Repeat for each type of calibration frame. You can just copy the resulting five folders and rename them. This way you don't have to keep track of any file numbers or such.
@mistermaster38
@mistermaster38 2 года назад
actually a great idea just did my first stacking today and spent so long trying to figure out my bias and dark frames
@Reverend-JT
@Reverend-JT Год назад
I wish I'd seen this 10 years ago. Great tip.
@kvdmeulen268
@kvdmeulen268 2 года назад
Just got started in Astrophotography and absolutely love your channel and your content. You’re a huge help for finding ones way around the wonderful world of Astro. Please keep doing what you do, it’s awesome! This video is gonna be a great start to my weekend. I hope you enjoy yours!
@amature_skywatcher
@amature_skywatcher 2 года назад
Thanks Nico! You are the best teacher I will ever have
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Thanks so much Manish! Clear skies, Nico
@willdobson79
@willdobson79 Год назад
I second that! BEST teacher. 👌
@lukomatico
@lukomatico 2 года назад
Superb video Nico! - So much inspiration in your work my friend :-) Thank you for sharing!!
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Thanks Luke!
@PetCactusA_HarmlessLittlePrick
@PetCactusA_HarmlessLittlePrick 2 года назад
You could create individual folders for different types of images in the camera. When you finish shooting light frames, create a new folder for flats, another for darks, etc. This way, I don't need to take notes or remember where I put them. Both methods will work; it's a matter of preference. Thank you, Nico; clear skies. 🔭🌌
@karthikgowda2825
@karthikgowda2825 2 года назад
That was the most welcoming intro I've ever heard
@AramilLiodon
@AramilLiodon Год назад
OMG Nico, I think it's the first time you've mentioned this highpass trick for making structures more prominent, and contrasty. This is an amazing piece of advice. I've gone back to most of my saved TIFs and did this and results are stunning. Thank you for that!
@astrojet9484
@astrojet9484 2 года назад
Absolutely love this kind of video, I started astrophotography by watching these kinds of videos, it's beginner friendly-having many details, I'm so glad you are doing these videos again!
@wir8
@wir8 2 года назад
Man your videos make me regret selling my trusty Nikon D7000 couple of years ago.
@letszoomit365
@letszoomit365 2 года назад
Wow, that was a quick hour 👍🤩 Sadly I was lost as soon as you started duplicate layers in Photoshop 😅 But I loved watch it anyway 👌
@junsupark2904
@junsupark2904 2 года назад
Im a beginner in astrophotography and I love you
@Dymitr11
@Dymitr11 2 года назад
Thankyou for shareing your amazing skils! You inspire me to take a photo of Andromeda galaxy couple days ago, and it turn great! Clear skies! :)))
@calebwhite681
@calebwhite681 2 года назад
"our sun is going to die" "oh i'm so sorry for your loss!" oh wait 😅. I actually got the Helix nebula to show up in a 75s exposure on a 6D with a 35mm f/1.4 @2.8 on a tracker in AZ. didn't know it was there but once I stitched my pano together it was rising above the horizon! i was floored. so cool to see that in a landscape astro photo. going to make a SHORT vid eventually on that experience. who knows when
@LuisFJA
@LuisFJA 2 года назад
Thank you Nico! You are one of my motivators to keep trying and improving my astrophotography! I got into it sometime in March 2021. I used to just use a 50mm and dslr, but have been slowly increasing my learning steep, I have been trying harder targets and longer exposures with a skywatcher. But the regular dslr lenses don’t cut it for me anymore. I bought a Meade LX90 10’ in December and have been using it to just look at stars while taking astrophotography with my lenses. But I’ve been slowly but surely buying more equipment (bcuz it’s expensive a new piece like every few months) and soon enough I’ll have my X-Wedge to be able to use the Meade Telescope for astrophotography, I have enjoyed this hobby so much. But surely this video will help out the beginners as the one you did on Orion with no star tracker helped me with my first photo in March of 2021. For all the beginners don’t lose faith as this hobby needs dedication and time to perfect as many other hobbies do. Please learn from mistakes and just keep practicing. Videos that are informative like Nico makes are the best ones and help ease the learning curve that a lot of people confront once realizing that doing astrophotography is time consuming and a lengthy commitment! Well That’s all I have to Say! Hopefully everyone has Clear Skies this upcoming season! (P.S Don’t let light pollution lose your motivation, I live in one of the biggest bortle 9 metropolitan areas and it’s hard to go out about 2-3 hours just for less light pollution. Learn the easier targets before going out of your way for better skies. Practice on like the moon, Orion, Pleiades, and maybe even wide field night views to perfect your practice before going out.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Great message! I had something about practicing on bright objects from light polluted areas, but it got cut due to time. I totally agree though! I started deep sky imaging from a city, and spent several months happily doing it that way before I found a dark place to travel to.
@IgnazioPillitteri
@IgnazioPillitteri 2 года назад
I had a great chat about astrophotography with Nico yesterday, he is amazing
@ollinevalainen8642
@ollinevalainen8642 2 года назад
What a great video! Subscribed! You mentioned the lens warmer. In how cold / freezing weather (for example during the winter) it is possible still to operate with a DSLR without breaking it?
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Yes, the lens warmer still works well below freezing in my experience. In that case, helps prevent frost on the lens.
@gowrishankar2420
@gowrishankar2420 2 года назад
Always my inspiration!! NICO! Thank you for your teaching brother!
@alakbaraliyev9460
@alakbaraliyev9460 2 года назад
You are the best guider in astrophotography. Thanks for every lesson🙏 Respect from @Spacefrommylens
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Thank you!
@bentheriault3581
@bentheriault3581 Год назад
Nico, this is some fantastic information! You might want to add some SEO relating to "astrophotography for beginners" or something along those lines, I think beginners would find this video very helpful.
@ianmacdonald2307
@ianmacdonald2307 2 года назад
Absolutely brilliant Nico. I’ve been using Photoshop for some time now but without some of the tips and tricks included in this video. So grateful to you. Like many others, your channel was and still is; at the heart of most of what I do. Thank you so much 🤝
@FredOzzie
@FredOzzie 2 года назад
Great video as usual. I like the technique of copying the red luminance to emphasize it. I hope it works on my old Photoshop version CS4 . Couple questions: (1) On matching temperature of lights & darks: Last month I took 754 exposures of Sagittarius with my Canon T3i. According to exiftool, the temperature of 1st image @8:58pm was 51 C, middle image @9:21pm 38 C, last image @9:49pm 35 C. How to match temperature with this wide variation? (I do not know why the camera started hot & cooled. It was not noticeably hot when I started.) (2) On your oblong star fix: does it help to enlarge image to 200% or 400%, then after nudging, reduce back (50%/25%)?
@yWarde
@yWarde 2 года назад
You just saved my night! Finally someone that know how to teach.
@renegossel5139
@renegossel5139 2 года назад
Perfekt Video. But i think the objekt is to smal for 200mm. IT make more fun with greater objekts. For example the veil nebula is very big. So it's more fun for beginners.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
I have found through doing a lot of projects without a star tracker that the brightness of the object matters a lot more than it's apparent diameter, but I agree the ultimate is an object that is both big and bright like M8, M31 or M42, but I've covered many of those already. Veil is a nice object with a star tracker, but I am very skeptical that it would make a good object without one since it is very dim and in a crowded star field, making it doubly difficult.
@mentordepret7951
@mentordepret7951 2 года назад
This is by far the best astrophotography explanation I have ever seen. thx so much!
@andrewclemente
@andrewclemente 2 года назад
One of these days I'll run into you at Ninigret
@DKelly350
@DKelly350 2 года назад
Great video, and I have watched your channel to learn about astrophotography. I use a Mac with SiriL, and find it has the best post processing for stacking and background subtraction. I have not found any problems if I name the folders with beginning capitals.
@epic_playz4283
@epic_playz4283 Год назад
Great image man 👍! Also what telephoto lens was used capturing this fantastic nebula (my favorite one)?
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos Год назад
Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L ii. I think discontinued now, but still plenty around on the used market. Very nice lens for this purpose.
@pickleriiick7294
@pickleriiick7294 2 года назад
But wait Nico… it’s been cloudy at night for a week around here. Where you at brother? Awesome video though. Ty.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
These videos take me a long time (several weeks or sometimes months) to make so 'last night' is no longer last night by the time the video comes out :)
@ricardocastaneda7511
@ricardocastaneda7511 2 года назад
Great podcast, loved it!
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Thanks Ricardo! I appreciate the support!
@Bohr2um
@Bohr2um Год назад
"Goodevening. Our sun is going to die :)" 💀
@WilliamSmith-gf3nt
@WilliamSmith-gf3nt 2 года назад
I started doing this astrophotography thing about five months ago. Last night, after watching this video the other week, I decided to punch in M 27 just to see if I could see it. I could not see it in the camera screen like what you show in this video but I could on the computer. This is the very first time that I have seen something come up in color! It looks just like what you show in this video. Everything I have done with Andromeda and the area around the North America Nebula shows up black and white with shades of grey so this teal-green nebula was a bit exciting.
@TheWorldsPresident
@TheWorldsPresident 2 года назад
Love the videos bro. You got me into astrophotography and now I'm badly taking pictures of the night sky 😂 One question if you don't mind. I want to shoot the NA nebula but it's practically straight up in the sky and I'm having a hard timing framing (have a Canon dslr on a star adventurer and ballhead). Is it just a practice and patience thing or do I need to wait until it's lower in the sky? Thanks for any advice from anyone 🤙🏽
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Yes, just practice. No need to wait. When it is high in the sky is the perfect time to shoot it, as the Zenith is the darkest spot.
@TheWorldsPresident
@TheWorldsPresident 2 года назад
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks. Much love and look forward to learning more from your videos 🤙🏽
@AstroQuest1
@AstroQuest1 2 года назад
Excellent as always Nico . I love watching your PS tutorials. I end up doing the same things but in such a convoluted way bouncing back and forth with PI making several versions with numerous masks. I wish I knew PS as well as you - it would save me an enormous amount of time. Maybe when I finally retire I will have time to do this 'the right way". For now I will just pick up a tip here and there. Cheers Kurt
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Thanks Kurt!
@henri-julienchartrand3387
@henri-julienchartrand3387 2 года назад
Excellent presentation again.
@mpojr
@mpojr Год назад
l enjoy and learned from your videos
@michaelw6173
@michaelw6173 2 года назад
Great video. At the beginning, it may have an idea to mention that you were using a Crop Factor camera and that the focal length of the 200mm lens changes. Anybody using a Full Frame camera may be disappointed in the results using the 200mm lens and wonder what happened.
@BeerDninJA
@BeerDninJA 2 года назад
Another brilliant video Nico. Great job!
@zmileyy
@zmileyy 2 года назад
Thank you for a well explained tutorial. Now I have something to go after without being to confused haha.
@-Jeremiah-
@-Jeremiah- 2 года назад
Nico, You have no idea how timely this video is. I’ve abandoned visual as I have no space for a visual scope but second attempt at 50mm astrophoto was a total bust…. Semi certain that is was ever so slightly out of focus but questioning that…. Looked for an email address to keep this from being long winded in public but…… Problem: 1k, 3s subs @f/ 2.2 w/ only dark calibration frames equals deeply flawed but otherwise beautiful galaxy core shot at bortle 5 Then second attempt 2k, 2s subs @2.2 of n.a. Neb @ bortle 4.5ish equals no nebulosity what so ever. It is only my second attempt and I was certainly overconfident from my first but I’m so disappointed with getting nothing. Can the stars look mostly in focus but still be just out of focus to the point of not showing any decent result for 3+ hrs of shots? Love your work, committed to learning how you do it
@-Jeremiah-
@-Jeremiah- 2 года назад
“Take your time” you say, “try not to get frustrated” you say But Nico… you already achieved your desired results
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Hi Jeremiah, North America Nebula is a very hard target with a stock camera as it's very dim except at 656.2 nm (Ha emission line) where stock cameras only pass the light at about 30% transmission. For this method (no tracker, camera lenses, stock DSLR), stick to the brightest Messier objects like: M31, M42, M45, M8, M20, M27, etc. for best results. You can email me: nicocarver at gmail dot com. Can take a few days for me to reply, but I try to reply to everything. Clear skies, Nico
@kevinashley478
@kevinashley478 2 года назад
Another great video Nico!! Keep up the good work!
@ThomasTL
@ThomasTL 2 года назад
Thanks very much for this complete guide from A to Z. This video is definitely going to be my goto video when I will be doing astrophoto!
@MrSkySharks
@MrSkySharks 2 года назад
Making that table with calibration frames in it was such a good touch. I had forgotten exactly how to do these, so this helps. Screen shot saved and will be used!
@NatarajanGanesan
@NatarajanGanesan 2 года назад
Even though I watched a similar one of yours earlier, I just enjoy watching it again for a new target. Always enjoy your videos.
@farazali6464
@farazali6464 2 года назад
Thank you so much Nico - can we follow the same method from high light poluted city sky like bortell 8-9. Does taking more pictures would help ? - thanks again !! You Rock!!
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
The same method works, but the results will be noisier. And yes taking more pictures will help with the noise from light pollution.
@farazali6464
@farazali6464 2 года назад
@@NebulaPhotos thanks a lot - would definitely try 🌌🙌🏻
@chrisc4744
@chrisc4744 2 года назад
Awesome job - love your content and education! I have yet to apply and follow along with your processes - but I'm eager to jump in soon!
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Great! I hope you try it
@thinuramalkith
@thinuramalkith 2 года назад
Thanks a lot ♥
@cirobranchizio1840
@cirobranchizio1840 2 года назад
great video and thanks for creating it. but i do have one question. i understand the reason not to use JPEG but my camera will shoot both in RAW and CRAW. CRAW being about half the size. does it make a difference whether i use RAW or CRAW? thank you
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
I am not sure as my cameras have never had a compressed raw option. I think a good thing to check is try opening a CRAW file in Deep Sky Stacker (DSS) and see if it opens fine. If it does then it may be worth trying CRAW, if it won't open in DSS than you will have to use the full RAW option.
@cirobranchizio1840
@cirobranchizio1840 2 года назад
@@NebulaPhotos thank you
@seanc8054
@seanc8054 2 года назад
this always gets me so excited, cuz ive always just seen photos of space and stars and the moon and just assumed, "i cant do that , i dont even own a telescope" but am excited to try this at my inlaws farm , theres no light at all out there so it should be perfect
@willdobson79
@willdobson79 Год назад
Your videos have really inspired me to get into astrophotography. You are a brilliant teacher!
@MysterPapa
@MysterPapa 2 года назад
Even if I look at all your videos, thank you for regularly coming back on the basics for settings, etc. This is a good teaching approach (for me !)
@Chorge1972
@Chorge1972 Год назад
This video helped me so much in the PS-Section! Learned many techniques! THANKS - although I will forget the most of it within seconds unfortunatly 😂
@UNLKYHNTR
@UNLKYHNTR 2 года назад
The term "planetary nebula" always bugged me. I know, I know, it's because it's round and looks like a planet or rather a gas giant. Wouldn't "remnant nebula" make more sense? I know that there is "supernova remnant nebula" which could be confused with normal "remnant nebulae". But just adding or leaving the prefix "supernova/hypernova" should clear up possible confusion. What do you guys think? Great and informative Video as always! Learned a lot again! Thank you
@cjt5mith
@cjt5mith Месяц назад
Great tutorial but thanks to my inexperience I ran into a few problems, which I will share in case it helps anyone. Firstly it was tough to even find the object, and I was doing the Trifid Nebula which ought to be much easier to find. Second, I couldn't even see stars on my camera screen so had to keep taking test shots to even keep the object in the frame. Thirdly, DSS could only find 28 stars even though to my eyes they were in focus, however I think either the light pollution was washing the nebula out, or the exposure was too short, or the focus was slightly off as only the brightest stars were visible and none of the nebula. In any case DSS would only stack 63 of the 400 frames I took. Finally, the stretching process in PS didn't work, probably because of the poor quality of the original image. The first adjustment seemed to work, at least everything became more visible, but then on the second one the data seemed to have all vanished and there was nothing on the histogram. So all in all not very good. I've obviously got a lot to learn ... 😂
@josephfoster6110
@josephfoster6110 2 года назад
Ok… that was a dramatic start…
@Rainy78
@Rainy78 2 года назад
Absolutely love your videos Nico! Thanks for sharing 👌
@decoservices
@decoservices Год назад
I just found your channel as I am just getting into astrophotography. Immediately subscribed as your delivery and content is spot on! Thank you for sharing your knowledge as well as helping those of us that are new to this genre of photography.
@corik7938
@corik7938 2 года назад
Thank you so much 💓
@RichStevenson
@RichStevenson 2 года назад
Hey Nico great video! I have the Star Adventure 2i and use Stellarium to locate my targets as well. One thing that helps in that process is I bought a phone holder that has a cold shoe mount. Attach it to the camera or an extension bar on the side of the scope and make sure it's square on the axis. Pull up my target and manually slew until the app shows I'm on it. It almost always gets me in frame or just outside of frame.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Great tip Rich! I've done the same in the past, but don't always remember to bring it.
@migalito1955
@migalito1955 11 месяцев назад
I may try this either this fall or next spring. My roadblock mainly is all the projects that I currently have that lack completion. Another roadblock is I don't particularly want to buy a storage device capable of storing 1000 images that you call lights & 175 images you call calibration images all in RAW format while being uncertain whether I will fall down the rabbit hole. I am wondering what kind of outcome I would get if I experimented by using only 10% of the total images for each class ??? Additionally, while I am familiar with digital darkrooms such as PhotoShop I was always a film photographer and considered digital cheating so I have a bit of a learning curve to become reasonably adept with respect to using the digital photography software. I am considering
@adnanejbara3801
@adnanejbara3801 6 месяцев назад
Things Trillons of miles away are impossible to spot with a camera ....same thing with a telescope
@Bodhiscott22
@Bodhiscott22 4 месяца назад
Thankyou for this epic video. I tried taking a photo of the lagoon and triphid nebula with my 400mm like you recommended, it actually didn’t turn out too bad, thanks for the advice!
@joey1317
@joey1317 Год назад
Hi. Am I safe to used a fixed tripod with no star tracker with a 135mm rokinon f2 lens? Im worried about poor quality images
@hamradioliveguy5544
@hamradioliveguy5544 Год назад
Just use Affinity photo. The main DEV is an astrophotographer, Astro stacking, and specific astrophotography steps are built in. Photoshop is to expensive and you are just renting it.
@maboleth
@maboleth 2 года назад
Nico, I have a question regarding the first Levels adjustments. I find this step crucial in my image editing, though I'm often stuck afterwards. Well, I have noticed that the way I edit Levels and RGB channels, a slight push to the right or left can make a permanent color shift, affecting everything. For example, several times my histogram looked good, all colours aligned, black looked good, but on the image itself bright objects had mostly green cast, teal, magenta, whatever. This was evident especially when boosting the image further. They didn't look real, nor did nebulae or galaxies. I tried fixing this with all kinds of Curves adjustments, finding true black/white spots, but this colour cast remained. Then after many troubleshooting, I found that the way I adjusted Levels in the beginning was the issue. If I adjusted it right (following the histogram, but also having luck), the whole image would have nice colours - nebulae, galaxies and stars would look good. But If I messed up, it would be a pain to fix and would linger throughout the whole process. I hope you could maybe explain this in more detail, how to be more precise during Levels adjustment and what to look for? Thanks a bunch!
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Yes, Photoshop isn't the best at these subtle color calibrations and requires lots of practice and a good eye to use successfully. In your case, I'd highly suggest using the Background Extraction and Photometric Color Calibration processes in Siril (free) and that should fix all problems with colour cast before you even stretch. You can either replace DSS with Siril or still stack in DSS and edit the tiff in Siril before finishing in Photoshop. Link in description for part 2 where I show how to use these processes in Siril.
@maboleth
@maboleth 2 года назад
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks a lot Nico! I never tried Siril and your tutorial was so helpful. I love DSS and got used to it a lot, but will certainly be trying Siril from now on and see how this goes. Could be a real time saver and a fix for my color issues.
@kevinashley478
@kevinashley478 Год назад
51:00 Hey Nico, it's Kevin's Question Time! The method you used to bring out the red color, could that take the place of getting your camera astro modified, seeing as how it seems that the camera is capturing the color but it's just being drowned out by the other signals?? Or does getting the camera astro modified allow for more of this Red channel to be captured??
@harveybc
@harveybc Год назад
I did quite a few astro pictures a couple years ago. Wish I'd had this back then. I figured a lot of it by trial and error but missed a lot also. Would have saved hours playing on my computer.
@slogadin
@slogadin 2 года назад
OH WOW
@Fatal_Inertia
@Fatal_Inertia Год назад
"Dew can form on the lens in humid environments" *Laughs in Arizonan*
@Fatal_Inertia
@Fatal_Inertia Год назад
Also, with the same camera, would it be more efficient to use even just a 70mm refractor with coated lenses?
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos Год назад
No, not without some kind of tracking. If just on a tripod, focal length/ratio on a 70mm refractor is typically around 400mm f/5.6 - that means shutter speed would have to be much shorter (under 1 second) and camera noise starts to dominate because there is not enough signal due to the slower optics and shorter exposures.
@Fatal_Inertia
@Fatal_Inertia Год назад
@@NebulaPhotos Currently I have a 70mm F/10 but that will be swapped for either a 102mm F/6.5 or a light bucket but I wouldn't be taking any photos with the light bucket. I want to get the Star adventurer GTI or the AVX but some guy on reddit told me not to waste my money and just buy an HEQ5 pro for twice the money which personally is unaffordable atm. I've seen you and Backyard do some crazy photos with the GTI so I think I will go with that.
@JimNotCarrey
@JimNotCarrey 2 года назад
Love these kinds of videos, Nico! I always pick up a new technique with them.
@Tbonyandsteak
@Tbonyandsteak 2 года назад
How can you deal with those huge tif files that stacking creates. To big for my cp.
@tayloursmith4469
@tayloursmith4469 2 года назад
Thanks!
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Thanks Taylour! I appreciate the support
@bakerfx4968
@bakerfx4968 2 года назад
Lovvvvveeee these videos! Only 1 small issue with 1 very small thing you said though. Don’t ever delete files in camera! If you’re going to have an SD card corrupt that’s what’s gonna do it, and you could waste hours! Just rely on formatting the whole card to get rid of files. When I’m doing test shots I shine my phone screen into the lens for a photo before and after test shots so it’s suppppper easy to pick them out of the files with the thumbnails
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Ah, thanks for pointing that out. Never occurred to me, but makes sense
@bakerfx4968
@bakerfx4968 2 года назад
@@NebulaPhotos no worries at all my dude! I work in video production so I figured I could share some of my tips too!
@rashie
@rashie 2 года назад
👍👍
@tayloursmith4469
@tayloursmith4469 2 года назад
Please keep these going! I'm stuck with a dslr, tracker, and lenses for a while. Your videos are so inclusive. I hope to see more!
@mahadahmedbaloch
@mahadahmedbaloch Год назад
DSLR+Tracker is all you need for almost all astrophotography no? Even lenses for like really small objects
@KipIngram
@KipIngram 2 года назад
"Windows only" software should just be shunned.
@springbloom5940
@springbloom5940 2 года назад
When you say a camera and a lens, the lens you're talking about, is a small telescope.
@AstroSeabee
@AstroSeabee 2 года назад
My iPad falls off from shudder shake quite a bit. 😂
@hornet224
@hornet224 Год назад
Dumbbell nebula M27 has a 7.5 magnitude brightness. You can’t see it or find it without star finder equipment. Pick Orion M42 instead for this exercise.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos Год назад
Sure, and I've made a video on capturing with this method: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iuMZG-SyDCU.html but all objects are seasonal so I have been trying other objects untracked. M27 was just slightly harder to find than M31, but easier than some of the Messier galaxies in Ursa Major. Any of the messiers are possible to find just using star hopping and live view with enough patience, but I've done a video on other aids for finding objects as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8MF8DByj_Po.html An internet-connected smartphone has a lot of neat tools for finding.
@TheMarcaf25r
@TheMarcaf25r 4 месяца назад
I like your videos Nico. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I have one thing that bothers me a bit. If you take a Dslr camera and you have to take 500 shots of a deepsky object that would mean your camera theoreticaly will be worn out after 300 photos.. 300 x 500 makes 150.000 which is the shuttercount manufacturers give a Dslr. I also know some cameras will go beyond that number before breaking down. Do you have any experience you can share about this? How long do your cameras last? Thank you .
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 4 месяца назад
There are only so many objects (mostly bright Messier objects) that this method works for. I assume most people who get started this way will buy a star tracker after doing this for a while. Once you have the star tracker, you can use longer exposures which reduces the number of images needed to stack. But even if you were to keep with this method, 300 shots would take a long time for most people. Between clouds and the moon cycle (better to take photos during new moon), my output is on average around 15 deep sky photos a year so 300 shots would take 20 years at my rate.
@gravation4208
@gravation4208 2 года назад
i got the same problem living in rhode island i want to get into this but not travel to far. any suggestions?
@ragir
@ragir 2 года назад
Ah dang, seems like my 900+ shots of the pelican are severely gimped by me not taking calibration frames apart from the darks, the first stretch you do is basiacally turning everything gray for me and I took those shots when the pelican was like 80 degrees up, so even with Bortle 5 sky I should have something there. I also went with a bit too low of an ISO setting I think (1600 on a stock 70D), I had to do some insane processing in PS to get anything usable out of the data. I know Photoshop very well and I just had to really hone in on the data to see anything. Still, for the very first time actually using a proper camera in my life and using it to do astrophotography, I can see a bit of the Milky Way in my stacked shots, which is probably ok. Kinda bummed a bit with the results, Cygnus seemed like an easy target with ~150mm on the basic 75-300mm Canon lens. Using the Sony RX100 mk4 for a wider shot actually netted me a bit better results (with some extreme vignetting to be fair) with even less shots, but I guess the lens on the Sony is 1.8 and I think I shot on the Canon with f4.6 or maybe f5.0 or something similar.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
My analysis: As you found, Cygnus is a pretty easy wide-field milky way target, but the individual nebulae are actually pretty dim, especially with a stock camera since they are mostly red hydrogen-alpha targets. The f/5 also has a big impact as you are taking in something like 8x less light than at f/1.8. So I think it had more to do with focal ratio and the Pelican being very dim and deep red (that the stock camera isn't as sensitive to) than not taking calibration frames. Calibration frames help a bit so I think are worth taking, but don't make a super dramatic improvement. Anyways, keep at it. Sounds like you are making good progress. Clear skies, Nico
@jesuschrist2284
@jesuschrist2284 8 месяцев назад
omg there is a continuous drive mode? fml. But ty
@Nareimooncatt
@Nareimooncatt 2 года назад
I love these DSLR and a tripod videos and it's making want to try this as well. One question, if you don't mind. I don't have the time to shoot that long at night, but I could do shorter sessions over several days for the lights. How would you handle the calibration frames? I.e. Take some with each session, or only at the end of one of the sessions.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
If you use Deep Sky Stacker, you can use the groups feature at the bottom to put one night into each group. It should calibrate with that night's calibration frames and then combine all the calibrated lights together. So, yes, separate darks/flats each night would be ideal.
@Nareimooncatt
@Nareimooncatt 2 года назад
@@NebulaPhotos I kinda thought the calibrations should be done each night, but didn't know DSS had the grouping function, which I guess addresses the real root of my question. Thanks for answering with the extra into.
@cemoguz2786
@cemoguz2786 2 года назад
@@Nareimooncatt you need calibrations for each session. If I remember right.
@raymorris3560
@raymorris3560 2 года назад
I noticed you cover the lense for bias frames. When I'm using my telescope I don't cover it for bias frames. Have I been doing this wrong all this time?
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Yes. Bias frames like darks should be done with no light hitting the sensor. We just want to capture the fixed pattern noise from the sensor.
@RonComstock
@RonComstock 2 года назад
Click on mask and use ctrl+I to invert the mask from white to black or black to white. Instead of filling with black or white.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Ha, good point! That is easier to remember.
@adnanejbara3801
@adnanejbara3801 Год назад
Nebula´s are not dying stars
@deacondavidrodriguez7978
@deacondavidrodriguez7978 4 месяца назад
Very false on this video you don't mention stacking until people viewed this for a few minutes.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 4 месяца назад
I don’t understand. How is stacking false? It is a standard processing technique for deep sky astrophotography. I don’t say in the title or the intro that the image isn’t processed.
@lydiagreenartandhorses
@lydiagreenartandhorses 2 года назад
Omg looks great, but got lost with masks. Is it possible to save the transcript? I started writing it up but still got lost. Great tutorial, problem is, is there a nebula that Southern Hemisphere can view?
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Hi Lydia, Here is what I could download from RU-vid in terms of a transcript: drive.google.com/file/d/1LBWgiXmtP968l9rDLEjbBMFmq2xlWWPH/view?usp=sharing Re: Southern Hemisphere. Yes, you have the Carina Nebula which would be great for this method. I think the best time for it is in your summer (our winter). telescopius.com is a good site for exploring nebulae to capture. And I did a brief video with a Brazilian astrophotographer on best S. Hemisphere targets without a Star Tracker here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xzBCkVupOzo.html
@Chorge1972
@Chorge1972 Год назад
2 Questions: 1. Wouldn’t it be clever to go to LR first, apply Lens corrections and some WB tweaking - and sync ALL files, export them as Tiffs before DSS? 2. How can you work on 32Bit default DSSexport Tifs in PS? I need to use 16Bit export
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos Год назад
1. Some people do work that way. I don’t for 2 reasons: One: Opening up your images in LR or PS first will always apply a non-linear stretch. Stacking will still work on stretched images, but not as well and the consequence is usually weird rings around the stars. Two. Calibration won’t work properly with stretched images. So if you go this route, don’t bother taking darks, flats, and bias frames. so I don’t suggest it, but it is an alternative workflow that some people use. 2. In PS, under the image menu there is an option under mode for bit depth. If working in 32 bit I duplicate the layer, do an initial stretch, change it to 16 bit and when it asks say ‘don’t merge’. Then you can continue on editing in 16 bit and all options will be available
@Chorge1972
@Chorge1972 Год назад
@@NebulaPhotos thx! Great info!!
@calabrais
@calabrais 6 месяцев назад
This video is gold! When I saw it was an hour long I hesitated at first, but the way you go step by step with no fluff or unnecessary dialogue makes it so easy to follow along. And the hour actually flew by, thanks!
@raymorris3560
@raymorris3560 2 года назад
Actually a great workflow. Tried it last night on M-81/82 last night. Can detect the barred spiral of M-81 and the "breaks" in M-82 are very pronounced! LOL got carried away. Ended up with 950 subs. Set DSS to 20% ended up stacking 750 subs!! Took the computer all night to stack!!
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Glad it worked well for you Ray! M81/82 is a great one to try with this method. I haven't done those without a tracker yet.
@raymorris3560
@raymorris3560 2 года назад
@@NebulaPhotos I hope you post it when you do. I was shooting in a suburban light polluted sky. I imagine you'll get way more detail in a good sky.
@dhr18
@dhr18 2 года назад
Have you tried multiple exposure over more than one night to further increase total exposure time? If so did it make any difference?
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Yes, it works well and continues to make a difference. Most noticeable if there are dim objects (dusty objects / reflection nebulae) in the field. See this video for real world examples at the end: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0vd6Zk5M5OA.html
@richardl1743
@richardl1743 Год назад
Thanks!
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos Год назад
You're very welcome! Thank you for the super thanks!
@RonComstock
@RonComstock Год назад
@Nebula Photos A faster way to a black mask is to create it when making the mask. Just clicking on mask icon makes a white mask. ADDING the ALT key while clicking on mask icon makes a black mask.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos Год назад
Ah, thanks for the tip Ron. Very helpful!
@RonComstock
@RonComstock Год назад
@@NebulaPhotos Try to remember ALT for the "alternate" of a white mask. Also CTRL+J will duplicate the current layer selected or you can drag layer to new layer icon to do the same. Also I beleive while a layers mask is selected you can go to image and choose apply image to make a mask of the image rather than copying the image and pasting it in the mask. Use the options in dialogue to choose merged or the layer you want, blending mode opacity.
@mrnuthatch7004
@mrnuthatch7004 2 года назад
Our sun is gonna die. I heard son lol.
@TaSwavo
@TaSwavo 2 года назад
Is a D-frame camera pretty much required for this (mine is F-frame) ?
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Any digital interchangeable lens camera will work, the lens is more important. A fast focal ratio helps a lot!
@shutterbug49
@shutterbug49 2 года назад
I use folders in the camera to separate my lights, darks, flat and bias frames. Much easier for me to find in processing rather than trying to remember or write down frame numbers. I love your videos. You are so good with the details.
@DefinedDeltstars
@DefinedDeltstars 2 года назад
I’m a broke highschool student I love astrophotography but I don’t have a tracker could you do more videos without a star tracker please.
@NebulaPhotos
@NebulaPhotos 2 года назад
Have you seen some of the others on the channnel? Orion, Andromeda, Pleiades... I'll keep doing them as long as there is interest, but maybe just 1 per year.
@DefinedDeltstars
@DefinedDeltstars 2 года назад
@@NebulaPhotos I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. I will check out your other no tracker videos clear skies!
@goldybug_vlogs4959
@goldybug_vlogs4959 11 месяцев назад
Whats the lens name?
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