You need a fill cap on your fill tubes. Mosquitos and other insects will enter through the fill hole. I’m in Florida and every time I water I add one teaspoon of fertilizer to a gallon . My theory is plants are like us they need food every time they drink . All my tubs have 6 inch pipe . I’ve got pineapples , cherries, black berries ,blueberries, sweet potatoes ,onions , white potatoes,tomatoes,cucumbers,cilantro,spearmint,chocolate mint ,peppermint, green yellow and red bell peppers, hot chili peppers ,snacabelly peppers , muscadine grapes,cattawaba grapes,basil and many more .Im in zone 10 a and everything grows very well following Leon’s methods . I had one tomato plant last year that had 55 tomatoes the size of softballs . We have drip irrigation as well. I added a gauge to my pots that show how much water is in the reservoir and I only add the fertilizer each time the plants need water . I tend to be able to go two to three days in the very hot months in between watering . Cooler months I’ve managed to go several weeks depending on the plant .
I bought a garbage can that holds 20 gallons and put a faucet at the bottom. I add Leon's 10-4-3 3oz for 18 gallons. Then water my 50 buckets in the bottom every 7 days from that. I water top and bottom for the first 3 weeks until roots touch bottom bottles. After 3 weeks, or when blooms appear, I switch to his 14-70-48 (7-35-24) and use 3 Oz for 18 gallons. Both amounts are Leon's 1tsp per gallon. He uses 1tsp instead of 1TB so you are guaranteed not to burn. After 3 weeks, I let all the buckets bottom feed only.
Yeah, I agree. I had severe blossom end rot last year, so much so that we lost 90% of our crops. So more fertilizer at the start would help that. Thanks for the info.
I had the same problem. Wicking tubs work great in dry places. If you have them outside and get a good amount of rain like I do, you end up with severe blossom end rot. Tomatoes that are too wet will not take up the calcium no matter how much you add to the tub. I planted in regular buckets this year and had NO problems. Granted, the plants grew great with not much watering on my part but loosing all your crop for the sake of not having to water as often.
I'm going to utilize Espoma plant fertilizer and Worm castings. Cuz that's what I have. Not made of money here. haha Chicken fertilizer and brown and green compost from last summer/fall, and over winter.
I ended up over fertilizing my over winter determinate container tomatoes grown indoors and they are just unable to produce flowers that will hold to the plant , plus a sick looking tan color on the leaf , I had a succession planting program in place ,so the 1st wave is a loss and I have learned my lesson , love is good , but to much smothering love is bad !
Alan, thanks so much for all of the amazingly informative videos!! I too am in Texas, and I'm revisiting my green thumb. In the past I had some amazing bramble patches, but I'm really struggling right now, our extremely wet spring may have caused a little havoc for me since I only restarted my garden this spring. I've tried multiple pH tests, fertilizers, etc. and nothing is really helping much. I have several variants of blackberry, raspberry, a logan and bosyenberry, etc... all are struggling. Is there any way I can contact you and send you some images with some descriptions of what I've been seeing? I have self watering containers with air pruning, but they are only 5 gallon buckets as opposed to the larger one's that you use. I sincerely appreciate any correspondence from you sir, thank you in advance!
I think that a lot of Mr. Leon's plants are grown in high tunnels with more humidity and less water loss so he probably doesn't have to water as often as people who place their tubs outside in the sun. I believe that you are right about possible over fertilizing when using his recommendation.
Now, Leon uses the fertilizer injector every time he waters, but he has a huge one that he keeps hooked up. I would have to hook mine up every day on 3 different gardens. That would just be too much work :)
@@BIGALTX Try using a magnum glass wine bottle with fertilizer + water in it. No cap or cork, just invert it into the soil. As the moisture goes down, air is drawn into the bottle releasing the mix. Not sure if this works with drip irrigation methods.
@@BIGALTX I only use it for containers usually. I even use glass vinegar bottles for smaller containers. I plan to use the bigger bottles for a couple of watermelon mounds. Where my plants are, there is a long distance to the nearest hose bib. So I have to hand water most of the time. I did take a Rubber Maid plastic trash can and drilled a hole in the side near the bottom. I hot glues aquarium tubing in the hole and places the can on 2 logs to elevate it about a foot or so above the garden level. I use an aquarium air manifold to regulate the flow. Out of the manifold I place tubing ends near/between plants, no emitters. 30 gallons of water lasts about a week or so. I do use the lid for that can to keep mosquitoes and debris out. Sometimes I add in some fertilizer to feed the plants. 3 foot Zinnias would grow to 4-5 feet tall that way.
@@BIGALTX I have a 55 gal plastic barrel that I use to make leaf mold in. Thinking about putting 10" or so of potting soil on top or that 6 month old rotting leaves, and planting a tomato plant on that LOL LESS bending over! Of course I might need a tall ladder to harvest?
Texas prepper seems to do OK. That's why I subbed. Nice pepper plants. Texas is hot and dry. Other places may be cooler and humid, cool and dry, or whatever. My hot and humid climate with sometimes a lot of rain makes things tricky. I keep water levels low, the tubs are more to catch run off water. Except on a hot, windy, summer day when plants use an incredible amount of water.
Hi and thank you for your videos. Ive learned so much from you. I have a question. I also use the self wicking containers that you use. My issue is that Im in Tulsa and we are getting so much rain, literally daily. Everyday I cringe because I know my fertilizer is just washing out and my leaves are lighter green and dont look great anymore. Could I use fish emulsion and a regular liquid fertilizer (Natures Source) twice a week until all this rain is gone? PS...This is my 3rd season growing. I have 13 tubs growing okra, tomatoes, peppers, green beans, beets, dill, and cucumbers (5 gallon buckets). I just started sweet potato slips so this will be interesting. I grow in a tiny front yard as well as an entire concreted back yard. Again, thank you for helping all of us.
You could cover the tops with a trash bag or something But yes, the massive rain is probably rinsing out the fert. Maybe a slow release fertilizer on top? The rain would activate it, but not wash it down and out... maybe?
Finally found some mineral tubs cheap that I will use this coming year. Hard to find around here. Not sure what I'm going to put in them yet. Good video.
Thanks for your information. We followed Leon's instructions for the 5 gallon buckets. I thought he said add the Nature's source each time you water. So right now we only are adding more water about once a week, but as it gets hot, I was thinking of going every other week with fertilizer. What I have been wondering about and haven't seen is how to refresh those buckets for the next season. Just add a bit more fertilizer and soil and keep going?
Sorry I didn't answer sooner... Yes, if the soil has compacted, add a little more and mix it in with the old potting mix. After a year or so, there may be some danger of "salts" because commercial fertilizers can leave a salt residue. For that reason, Earthbox says to remove the "fertilizer strip" when replanting the EB. That would probably be a good idea on the Wicking tubs too. Just remove the outside 2" or so of soil from the inside rim of the tub. Not easy to do when they have berries or fruit trees in them because the root system will envelop the entire tub. Not sure if "organic" fertilizers leave the salts or not.
Leon answers all of your questions. I downloaded 4 videos explaining all your questions. You fill the bottom cavity every 7 days. You do not water the top after 3 weeks. You empty the bucket of soil and use the spent soil in the bottom of your next bucket up to the top of the bottles. Then use good soil on top.
I am looking to change my fert style to your method. Does the top ring of fert rely on rain to dissolve it or does constant moisture from below dissolve it ?
Why even plant in containers, and not in the ground? I’m moving to mason, Tx. Is the soil that bad? I’m in Az and our soil is too alkaline for most plants.
I pre mix my Peters 20/20/20 in a 30 gallon brute trash can then use a gallon jug to pour it down my tube then top it off with the hose until the weep hole drips
I was wondering why so much lime until you explained about the soil you are using. I live in north east Texas on gray land. It's a bit on the acidic side. I just planted about 20 prime arks in the ground.
I primarily used Happy Frog in 7.4 gal air-pots. I did not add in fertilizer because I transplanted small tomato seedlings. They are now about a foot tall. At what point do I fertilize them? I prefer to use triple super phosphate (a mineral) and Potash (another mineral). I did incorporate a handful of Azomite in the mix before planting. Plants seem to be doing well. Do I wait or do I fertilize 1/2 strength now?
I had to look up Happy Frog. That's a new one for me :) As long as you stay away from the roots you should be OK. If you're using an organic fertilizer it's unlikely you'll burn them. Phos and Potash usually won't burn, but again, stay away from the roots. I usually just ring the container with fertilizer (if the plant is in the middle) You'll need some N too for plant growth, but Phos is what makes the blooms and 'maters 👍😎 (also you need calcium or you might have blossom end rot. Here's what I use for BER: hosstools.com/product/pelletized-gypsum-soil-conditioner/
@@BIGALTX I planted my transplants directly into the Happy Frog. I usually lightly spread those minerals like feeding chickens. Just a little loosely around the surface. Today I did sprinkle a handful of pelletized gypsum on the surface. Each time it rains, it will dissolve and supply the plants. Oh and when I used the Happy Frog, I mixed in a handful of Azomite. One garden I have I use well water. That should have lots of calcium in it. Other gardens I have to use city water or rainwater.. Those I have to watch.
If you are having to prune the suckers off continuously then your tomatoes are growing well. I liquid fertilise every week 1/2 strength and minimise water run off.
@@BIGALTX Toss in some TUMS antacid tablets (calcium) in the hole. ROLAIDS has aluminum in it and bad for things. Or pelleted gypsum. For potted perennials, toss in some 'power pills' (Michigan Bulb Company). They will last 1-2 years. All my plants did horrible the past 2 years due to the extreme summer time heat we have had. Plants just don't like 100F + heat in the day and 90+ at night. Even moving them into the shade did not help.
sHOW us the bucket setup FRom start, water reservoir and etc thanks i apreciate. i respect Lord Leon, and him concepts but i explore many techniques, as i saw in mr Leon that technique coould burn my plants easy, IMO.
Here it is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9guNoWP8_ls.html MY Hybrid tub: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-radHBan7-BI.html
I'm just adding water. Sometimes it's down the hole, sometimes it's in the middle of the pot. The water drains down, fills the water reservoir, then wicks back up as needed
For my tomatoes l use masterblend using a float system with a 30 gallon trash can as my reservoir using 10 gallon buckets. All l do is just keep the reservoir topped off.
Well done, I like your idea on fertilizer , I've been doing raised beds for years & plan on switching to wicking tubs this year for some plants starting with tomatoes . What estimate would you give on production , say 1-2 plants per wicking tub ? My normal is 6 plants per 4'x8' raised bed. I have some 55gal barrels that will be cut & used as wicking buts. Thanks
2 tomatoes at the most. I usually plant one tomato, but have had 2 in a WT and saw no difference in production. In an EarthBox you're supposed to plant 2 tomatoes... but you can plant SIX pepper plants!!!
i do a 10-30-20 for "fruiting" plants....whether it be veggie or fruit. The potassium and pot ash are key. BUT......only once it blooms (fruits) and only once.
@@BIGALTX I'm sorry brother, i mispoke. It's masterblend blossom booster 10-30-20. I had problems finding my old stuff i aforementioned. This is the same concept....one time application once fruiting.
I think so Spread fertilizer around the rim of the container Then watch the trees... might need more I like to fertilize maybe once a month when they are vigorously growing (spring / summer)
Are you using a lb of 10-20-10 in a circle around tomato plants when you plant them? I have been using Mr. Leon's formula for my tomatoes and I am like you, I hate to fertilize every time I water because in the hot summer that is every day. Thanks for the video.
Sorry I didn't answer sooner... I just saw this question. Yes... I fertilize all the tomatoes and peppers with 10-20-10 (about 1LB in a circle around the inside of the tubs). I feel like that will last for a few months. I usually start the 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer when they start putting on fruit. I do this in Earthboxes. Wicking Tubs and Grow Bags Hope that helps, alan
I get mine at my local Farm Feed store. Call some near you. If you can't find it, you can always use 10-10-10 and boost the PHOS with something like this: amzn.to/3Nv0mKC Just estimate what you would need. I think 1/10 of a LB of *extra* PHOS - per LB of fertilizer would be ok But, do your own math... I'm not that good at it 😎 It's hard to burn plants with PHOS, so it should be ok.
Honestly wanted to do this but if they need to be watered everyday anyhow because of water consumption then why wicking tubs. Especially if you’re using your watering drip irrigation with timer. Why not just water everyday or more?
Only the Earthboxes (that have covers on them) need to be watered after a rain. The EB covers won't allow much rain to get into the box. These that are open on top will get as much rain as plants that are in the ground.
This year, just about everything I had in the ground… Corn, green beans, cucumbers, potatoes… Got drowned it out. I didn’t necessarily lose everything, but production was severely hampered. Everything in containers did just fine. I plant both and ground and in containers, and also in raised beds.
I realize this video is old, but I notice you ran your drip over to your orchard. DId you run it in PVC or did you use 1/2 drip tubing. How far did you run it? Love your videos.
I use 1/2" drip tubing for the mainline. On some things I will come off the mainline with 1/4" hose and an emitter... depends on the application. This video explains it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0vHU8_fbZ0k.html
What are your thoughts about adding potato peelings, onion skins or dry tea grounds in the soil mix along with your fertilizer occasionally. Concerned it might affect the ph
@@BIGALTX thank you for responding. Enjoy watching your videos and explanations as well as Mr. Leon's. My 1st attempt at wicking because last year my garden was attacked with yellow sedge that I spent hours removing and couldn't stay caught up with. I knew there had to be a better way!
You're soil needs to be around 7PH. Do a PH test. If it's 6.5 or so, it's ok but too much under that and you need lime. A soil test should tell you how much lime to add...
Wicking Tubs: Here's how to get them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SlAOl995SaQ.html Here's how to make them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9guNoWP8_ls.html Here's my "Hybrid" tub: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-radHBan7-BI.html
Weep hole necessary? ABSOLUTELY, or the plants could drown after a big rain. When I water with a drip line, it's just like running water down the fill tube. The only difference is that the water "filters down" through the soil before it reaches the 3" reservoir at the bottom. If I am using a fertilizer injector in my drip line, the fertilizer gets to the roots better.
@@BIGALTX It seemed like the rationale for wicking tubs is water conservation and fertilizer conservation. If you are using drip on a timer how much of a difference is made vs putting them in the ground. I get that its a better way to container garden but I am trying to understand the benefit over putting the plant in the ground.
@@raymondpinner8328 Here in TX, in the hot summer, a large plant (tomatoes, blackberries, etc) will have to be watered EVERY day. It they were in the ground, they would have to be watered 2 or 3 times a week since the soil will hold some water. But, in the ground, they will probably have to be watered longer, and deeper. For me, it's worth it. The problems of having blackberries in the ground strongly outweigh the fact that they need more water. I'll do a video soon about the pros and cons of container blackberries.
Great video! I am planting elderberry bushes in a wicking tub due to our clay soil that is too harsh to plant in. (Corpus Christi, TX) Do you happen to know what fertilizer I need to add to the tub?
I fertilize my fruit trees just like I discuss in this video. About 1 LB of 10-20-10 at planting (around the inside of the tub- trying to stay as far as possible from the roots) Then, about 2 months later, I start using 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer from HOSS TOOLS (about 2 TBS every 2 weeks) down the water tube... then water it in. Check out my Associate Link to HOSS TOOLS: bit.ly/homesteadadvisor
Here's the 20-20-20 fertilizer: hosstools.com/product/20-20-20-garden-fertilizer/ I also use MicroBoost when I use the the water soluble fertilizer: hosstools.com/product/micro-boost/ It is Amazing stuff!
@@BIGALTX Well actually it didn't help me much last year. Out of 300 tomatoes, I had to throw away 205 of them due to blossom end rot. I did use gypsum too. Watered every 3-4 days with well water. Takes about 4 hours to water the one garden (slow well pump sigh).
If I dissolved it, I would just pour it into the tub (which I've done several times before using a 5 gallon bucket) This way, I know exactly how much each tub is getting. Most times I use the fertilizer injector system
@@BIGALTX Hello, I am doing an experiment with a 2 gallon pot on top of a 5 gallon bucket. I drilled a 2 inch hole in the middle of the pot and the cover of the 5 gallon bucket and dropped a 16 x 24 inch micro fiber cloth down and filled the bucket with water to see if the water would wick up. I am getting tired of watering my plants. Like you said those wicking tubs need to water daily in the hot sun.
@@BIGALTX I want to foliar feed fertilizer at a weaker strength every other week, and on the off weeks foliar spray with Epsom salts so as to not tie up the phosphorous with the magnesium in the Epsom salts. I am not opposed to adding fertilizer to the top of the container (Potash is water soluble and rain or watering will wash it into the soil more slowly).
If you're using micro boost, is the gypsum really necessary? The micro boost has all the micro ingredients needed to prevent blossom end rot doesn't it? Anyway, very informative video!
keep in mind WE ALL have DIFFERENT GROWING ZONES. it matters when and IF we have to adjust our soil for the right planting, therefore Mr. Leon MAY be RIGHT in his area of planting. it is a TRIAL of hit or miss. In UT we hit and missed bc each different tree or bush requires a different mix. crazy as it seems. Now we live in OHIO so ANOTHER year or two of learning WHAT to adjust in a 6b environment.
I sure hope you aren't getting the heavy frost we are predicted tonight. White peaches, anjou pears, all set. Garden looks better than in yrs and I have it covered the best I can. 😳🙄
In the summer I have to water every day. Since Leon uses 6 inch pipe he has a larger reservoir than I do. I use 4 inch pipe because I cannot find the 6 inch. And if you do find it, it is much more expensive.
Thanks for the info! Thinking of doing tubs for raspberries and a as wondering what kind of maintenance do you have to do after the berries are done. Like do you have to water all winter??
Hoss is just a high priced designer brand. Feed/farm stores sell the same fertilizers for much less. 10-20-10 is 10-20-10 no matter how gimmicky the bag is or isn't.
Man I got tired of adding water to the self wicking tubs here in hot as heck Texas last year and I didnt use the drip water you have so my bright idea was drill more holes in the bottom of buckets lift them up and sat back down in even larger tub with 1 hole in it making a bigger reservoir. What a dumb idea! yea it worked but can we say mosquito farm!!! lol Live and learn
@@BIGALTX So long as you use clean water (No chlorine or similar), you can try putting some feeder goldfish in the water. Just don't let it dry out or the fish will die. Hot water will kill them too.
🤣 I'm a day late and 2 cents short...But, the difference for anyone that deosn't follow Mr Leon. Mr Leon uses 'compost" in his buckets. The earth boxes call for you to strictly use potting MIX- not soil. The wicking works differently between the 2 mediums. 😊
@@BIGALTX LOl I think it depends on what he is doing. I notice when he is teaching a class, he uses bagged potting mix, and when he is teaching via video, he is ususally at his compost pile and comments how he like the large pieces in his mix.
@@BIGALTX 😂 It's Mr Leon! He just rolls with it! We should strive to be as laid back as he is! Trust the Lord and get on with the day. Use what you have, do the best that you can and know God will work the rest out.
Yall make this way more complicated than it is. My soil? I go in the woods and find some black, rotten ol logs, bag that crap up and take it to the pile. Then I mix in compost I make frome grass clippings and straw. Chicken poo from the hen house... wood ash from the winters pile of wood stove left overs and throw in some peat moss to hold moisture. Then I ram that junk in a bucket. Put a seed in there Water that crap and grow the biggest maters anywhere around. Keep it simple.
I be it grows a lot of good veggies, and would work great on most containers But I think the "soil" would be too dense for these Wicking Tubs. The water needs a lot of peat for the wicking action.
Wicking tubs are not needed, waste of time. I grow in 17 gallon tubs with side drainage holes using a slow irrigation for steady soil moisture. Soil prep along with a regular fertilization and nutritional program produces fantastic crops every year, many of these so called professionals over complicate gardening and makes it more of a burden than enjoyment of growing and producing bountiful crops of vegetables and fruits.
If you use wicking buckets using a float valve you will not be wasting time. I had six 10 gallons buckets with the rope handles with a homemade floatvalve here n Savannah Ga., & got around 60 tomatoes per plant using celebrity tomatoes & masterblend fertilizer. The proof is in the pudding.
@@mikejones1615 i've been growing in 18 gallon tubs for many years with 4 one inch drain holes spaced evenly around the side with a one inch space beneath for a reservoir, nothing more, and i produce 90 to 100 pounds of Parks Whopper CR Improved tomatoes from each container.
@@gregblanton9386 Greg you humbled me after hearing how many pounds you get. Wish l could get in touch with you if you wouldn't mind to get more info on how you do it. Thanks
I don't "use him" ... I like to give credit to him as the originator of this system This video is meant to show how I differ from him in fertilizing the tubs. Many folks NEVER give anyone any credit. They act like their newest project is THEIR idea, when it's not.
Completely unnecessary, and unsustainable for most people. Just learn to make good compost with diverse ingredients that will still be available when stores are al shut down, as well as compost tea and Jadam. That's all the nutrition you need to grow.
Some people's soil conditions do not allow them to garden traditionally Also, many have disabilities that hinder them and containers are a great way for them to garden
@@BIGALTX Using your native soil around you is also completely unnecessary, and I agree that growing in containers is an excellent idea. All you need for "soil" to grow well is Organic brown matter like woodchips, leaves, dried grass, etc, and well made nutrient rich and diverse compost. The most sustainable way to grow is to learn to make your own soil from ths above materials, which virtually everyone can find around them in some form. Being dependent on store bought fertilizer is a huge mistake, long term. The above with making your own soil is the foundation of Back to Eden Gardening and also No dig gardening methods.
I agree with the BTE method transforming soil. I have several videos on my BTE journey. Here's one of them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Po9YSSLZKeU.html I still plant some veggie crops in the ground... corn, peas, and other "row crops". But most of my other things are planted in containers AND raised beds. And yes, container gardening could be successful with decomposed leaves, chips, etc... However, when using "Wicking Tubs"... the mix HAS to include a large % of PEAT. The PEAT will "wick" the water up. Regular compost or soil will not wick as well and may starve the plants of nutrients
