Saving old CRT televisions and monitors has become a mild obsession for me because they aren't making new ones, and any insight into keeping them working is greatly appreciated.
@@JonnyMudMowerThe plastic case and other components may be newly manufactured but the glass tubes are either from recycled used sets or are new old stock.
@@ForTheStyle whatever lol they have thousands of new old stock tubes and all the components and case are new so who cares , it’s a new tv with a 1 year warranty , there is people making new tubes but they aren’t available to the public or your paying big time for them .
Chances are these (CRT TVs/monitors) will never be made again. I wonder if any of these that are still fully functional and in good condition 20-30 years from now will be worth a lot of money because of their rarity. Just a thought.
While this solved the problem, there's probably still at least one fault. The voltage was sagging about -1.2V- 1V before, now it's sagging about -1V- 0.6V, which is still a lot for a 5V rail. The 5V VCC of the controller is sourced from a simple pass transistor+zener diode regulator, which is not a great performer usually. The raw 8.9V input is filtered by a 470uF 16V (C531) capacitor. I'm almost certain that C531 has high ESR, and probably undersized in capacitance. The same 8.9V rail supplies power to a 7805 as well, which is switched by a transistor, and has an other 470uF capacitor (C529) on its input, and a 1000uF on its output. The voltage sag on the AT+5V VCC rail during power-on is most likely caused by the high inrush current when the switching transistor connects the discharged 470uF capacitor to the same 8.9V rail, and the 1000uF on the output of the 7805 also contributes to the high inrush current on the 8.9V rail during power-up. I would replace C531, C529, and would also probably change the value of C531 from 470uF to at least 680uF or even 1000uF. It does not feel right to switch a completely discharged 470uF capacitor on a live, unregulated rail that is filtered only by an other 470uF. A significant amount of voltage sag is inevitable on the rail, due to the inrush current. *EDIT* correction: the voltage sag is about 0.6V after the repair, and it was like 1V before the repair. I wasn't paying attention that the 5V level is not aligned with the grid. Thanks to @Michael Thomsen for pointing this out. 56:17
Yes! Exactly! Not sure how Adrian missed it. Well, I'm not 100% sure if it is C531 or something else but 1V sag is most definitely NOT ok, it will likely get into clicky mode after a while. I'd say at least try checking if one of the power switching transistors is marginal as well.
Yes, C531 is doing the heavy lifting of being the first stage filter for the switching power supply. Those usually fail first. I would double check it. And I agree the voltage sag is excessive even if the TV is still working (for now).
Great vid Adrian!! Thailand was a big CRT manufacturer in this time period. I could still find brand new tubes and chassis at the electronic market back then. Now I come across some FBT and other spares from time to time. Because of the weather conditions CRT are still widely used here. LCD tend to develop issues with the polarizer after a few years, most commonly known as the "vinegar syndrome". Nothing beats a good tube, especially in all its RGB glory :-)
Holy Crap! I used to own that exact same model. Bought it back in 2000 because I wanted a set with Component Inputs (Y Pb Pr) for my PS2. God, did it make the PS2 look freaking good.
The composite/component thing is kinda alien to me. Every TV I owned was either RF only or RF and RGB, sometimes S-Video and I've been using RGB since the Sega Mega Drive(SNES doesn't support RGB out, sadly) and Amiga days. I couldn't imagine playing PS1 or PS2 through RF(or composite, which doesn't look much better), unless you had a TV from like 1982, or a VERY(I mean like sub-£100 new) cheap portable which was RF only.
i think most analog inputs were awful on tv (like the cinch ones) because if i used a audio+tv signal to scart adapter (passive) it always looked way better for some reason
Fun fact, worldwide sale of CRT televisions actually PEAKED in 2005, despite some markets being in heavy decline in favour of LCD by that time! You could still buy them in some countries past 2010. There are actually still one or two CRT manufacturers in existence, but they make equipment exclusively for airline and military purposes.
When dealing with old magnetic tapes (VCR, tape recorder, reel to reel) this type of problem will be getting more and more common than before : when 20 or 30 years ago (when the tapes were still recent, except for rally bad quality tapes) you have to use the equipment for several dozens of hours to get slightly dirty tapes, it now take only one faulty tape to entirely clog the heads. I think the same kind of problem can happen too with floppy disks too.
Your troubleshooting skills are off the charts! It was very instructional following your reasoning through the schematics and the testing of the components.
Orion only used Nichicon and Rubycon capacitors in their TV sets, VCRs and DVD players until the company went bancrupt in around 2015. So the capacitor brands weren’t Toshiba’s choice here. Although Orion was known for cheap products, their hardware quality was decent. However, I didn’t like the build quality of their remote controls and the plastics paintwork. Orion’s cases often came with scratches and impurities right out of the factories. In my Orion TV VCR combo from April 2001, some PCBs had the Matsushita [M] logo on it. Some - if not most - Orion-branded CRTs were actually built by Chunghwa in China.
@@SockyNoob I am not sure if there was only one Orion or more. But the Orion I know is (was) a Hungarian brand founded in 1913. As far as I know they made decent quality products. After the collapse of the Soviet union, as a lot of companies, it went bankrupt in 1997 and the brand was bought by a Singaporean company group. Now the sell rebranded chinisium garbage.
For head cleaning, we used Kim wipes (Kimtech). For everything, the Sony D2, Beta SP, and all of the random S-VHS and VHS decks. The 4x8" ones. Fold in to quarters. Perfect finger width size. Beware that you never want to move your finger up/down when cleaning heads. Modern decks have a piezo adjustment for head tracking and that can be broken by vertical movement. What I do is rotate the drum to between the heads, place my finger there, keep constant pressure, then rotate the drum a couple times. One nice thing about pro decks is that most have an RF meter or even an RF test point that you can scope to see the signal from the heads. Low signal, clogged heads or bad tracking.
Reading some of the comments below, it seems that the "fix", was just a temp plaster on a problem still lingering. However, many aspects of this repair were still a valuable learning experience. Thanx Adrian.
One of the lessons I am taking from this is to always put CRTs like this on a power strip and physically switch it off. Simply being plugged in and unused is clearly creating stress on the components even though they're not doing a whole lot per se. Over time that will cause them to wear out more.
@@m1geoI have a Samsung GX CRT that flickered on and off due to a brief power outage. And let me tell you guys; the noises that it made when turning off and back on were NOT pleasant! 🤣 Always use the TV's power button!
If I remember correctly, the sharpening trick some TVs use relies on the detection of the transition from a lighter area to darker area during the image scan, and blanking the pixels in-between the transition boundary. It basically puts a fine black outline between areas of contrasting brightness and/or color.
? doubt it? that'd require a hell of a lot of signal processing, maybe a high frequency emphasising/boosting circuit ... that'll have the effect of sharpening edges
@@andygozzo72 You could be right. Wikipedia entry for 'Edge enhancement' does describe something similar to what I meant, though. There's likely several ways to achieve a similar effect.
What it does on this TV is finely adjusts the horizontal position of the beam, slowing it down during sharp brightness transitions. This compensates for poor bandwidth in the amplification circuitry, but tends to cause overshoot and geometry issues, especially on these Orion sets.
Happy to see that you're still making great content, Adrian. I remember following you, because I was searching for SJ Forester XT content, and stumbled upon your video. And the rest is history lol
I'm having crazy flashbacks watching you work over a Micron mousepad, Adrian! I worked Tech Support at Micron in the late 90's. that mousepad was everywhere! They published many different 800 numbers so they could track where calls were coming from. When we got a call to that number, the phone display would say "Mousepad"! BTW loved your unboxing of that era Micron PC you did years ago, I've been watching ever since!
Thanks for this video, Adrian. Keeping these old units in service is something I'm keen on myself and I think I have a similar unit. I'll check out the shed and get back to you.
Interesting, having repaired about 20 sets as a hobby, and yes; both tube-type and LED TVs develop the same RST problem with old caps. One of the first things to check.
I really appreciate you making this type of videos, although long it shows your thought process, and has definitely given me some new ideas for trouble shooting for the future, thanks!
Excellent repair, Adrian. Be aware that these Orion-made Toshibas commonly experience vertical foldover from a couple of caps close to the vertical IC/heatsink that are prone to early failure.
I am in the UK and still have a Toshiba 14 inch colour crt tv in my bedroom which my Late Mother bought me in 2005. Still works and gives a good picture. My main set is a Sony flat screen. I am watching your video on a Toshiba laptop.
I’ve recently gotten enthusiasm over VHS tapes and converting them to computer video files. Thanks to The Oldskool PC’s videos on RU-vid, I know way more than I ever thought there was to know in order to get an excellent transfer! And I recently got a professional level VCR with a TBC built in! 😮
I have several 2003-2006 era Toshiba AF series CRTs and the last one was obtained exactly the same way: Left on the curb in the rain. Wiped off the mud and it was as good as new. :)
Just because, I was also looking at the service manual and see you can press "VOL (-)MIN" (presumably the button on the front) and the #"6" key on the remote control and it should display the hours the display has been on. Not that it makes any difference, but it may be interesting to see what it says.
One of the biggest problems with old tube TVs is that the line frequency oscillator breaks down the solder so first thing is always to resolder the ground tabs around the frame of the case. It uses the metal frame to give other parts of the TV a chassis ground 👍
Mike Smith Grounding issues, are you on 120 Volt grid in the US. I do ground them all, japan / Europe Eng versions only, the old Sony Trinitron 60 Ish models i collect, can you give me some tips, specially on the Japan dual systems i have some issues.
I still have my mum and dads old 14" CRT from the early 2000's, it was in the caravan so was only used for a few hours a year the picture is still great and a PS2 through scart looks sweet.
I've had a good few Orion Toshibas over time. Starting in the 2000s, Toshiba outsourced pretty much all of their TVs under 32 inches to Orion to cut costs. The last number of the model number signifies the year of the set - XXAF41 for 2001, 42 for 2002, etc. You shouldn't have had to cut the VM coil wires to disable SVM. If you peek in the service manual, CP852B is also part of the SVM signal path, and is just a normal connector. This is a very common mod on these sets. The SVM also horribly impacts geometry on these sets. Many of these Orionshibas also have "red push," where red colors are boosted without altering white balance. It's pretty nasty, but I believe that the 2001 models maaay not have had it? And my 14AF46 also does not. On the 2001-2002 models, it may be removable via some initialization data trickery, none of which is particularly well-documented. These sets also got worse over time. They redesigned the chassis in 2003, and they started reducing the input count in 2004. They always retained the full suite of inputs, but the later sets had fewer duplicates and lost the monitor out, at least on the small models. If memory serves, the handling of the YPbPr video also became worse with the chassis redesign, having some horizontal separation issues. There is also an hour counter on these sets, which can be accessed in a similar way to the service menu, details of which are in the service manual. In short: turn the volume all the way down. Then, hold volume down on the TV, and press and hold 9 on the remote for the service menu, or 6 for the hour counter. Jamvanderloeff is still around and still making all sorts of stuff! He's Wakabavideo on eBay, and he only lists items that are currently in-stock. As far as I know, he's still making his YPbPr to RGB transcoder. He's an active member in the /r/crtgaming subreddit, as well as the Discord server linked there, and he'll always respond when asked about stock.
I have a 27 inch or so Orion TV, it was made August 2002 (on sticker), it's still working, I only use it once in awhile for ColecoVision/Intellivision, but it does have a lot of hours on it.. it's black color cabinet, I'll have to check later to see if it has a hour counter lol, interesting. Edit, okay ( out of breath, frikin thing is heavy lol) it's model number is STV2763, okay I tried , this came up on a blue screen, INIT 00 08 CRT ON 55CA , I couldn't exit it, so I shut it off lol
I have that exact same set I bought new back in the day. It still works and looks decent and it has low hours too. It's my last CRT TV left. Panasonic had the first semi flst screen called the GAO tube, excellent looking sets, then Sony came out with the actual flat tubes and everyone made similar sets. I live in deep outer SE Portland so I'm local to you and I have fixed TVs for years but no longer. I have a Beltron CRT rejuvinator and all kinds of tubes and tube testors stashed in my shed. I also had the Toshiba 34hfx84 crt HD sets from 2005 to about 2019. Excellent looking set and it just continued to work.
Here in Europe, Thomson was very early in making almost fully flat CRT TVs. The earliest I saw was from 1990-1992. They called it Thomson Planar, came first with the ICC5 chassis that was developed at around 1986-1988. The chassis needed an add-on board with a ton of correction coils and capacitors, because the flat CRT needed quite some trickery on the deflection for proper geometry (I think it wasn't just flat, it had a deflection angle greater than 110°, maybe it was 130°). They are as flat as most late "flat" CRTs on the inside. Because most "flat" CRTs are only fully flat on the outside, the inside still has some curve. Even lower-end flat Trinitrons, they are still cylindrical on the inside. I smashed some dead flat Trinitron tubes, and the aperture grille (so the screen, too) is actually curved. Probably the Bravia / XBR Trinitrons are fully flat on the inside as well, at least that is what they claim. But my cheap KV-29FX20 from 2001 definitely had a flat Trinitron tube that is curved inside. I smashed the dead tube that came out of it after 39k hours of operation without any failure (the TV might still work, I replaced the tube in it and gave it to my neighbour in around 2010).
Nice one Adrian. Re the "broken VCR", the most likely cause of the failure was due to the tape being rewound after it was last used. I suspect that machine keeps the tape laced up in FF & REW so it's always in contact with the head drum. If you played the tape then rewound it, this is effectively dragging the tape backwards across the heads which can cause oxide shedding. It was never a problem with earlier VCRs that always unlaced the tape before FF or REW modes. Some engineers I knew back when always laced up mechs were introduced, said that this was not only to keep the tape against the control track head, so the tape counter could use the pulses to count the tape position in real time, but it was suggested that this was so the heads would wear more quickly causing the customer to buy a new machine earlier - in other words, the first steps towards built in obsolescence. I think they was just paranoid myself but then cheap video recorders rang the death knell of the TV & Video repair trade.
To be honest, I would check the other things that are connected to that 5V line as well. It's quite possible that it wasn't just that one capacitor that was the cause, but a combination of several of them, all getting to the point where they're respectively failing to do their full job, and the total sag is adding up to too much. Or there may be another component which is consuming more power than it's supposed to when the set first starts up, causing the sag in the first place. I can't say for certain, but my gut says that it doesn't really feel to me like you've necessarily completely fixed the issue, maybe just postponed it...
You are right. The main problem is poor engineering. The 5V (standby) rail that is sagging is getting power from a 8.9V unregulated rail, which is also powers an other 5V rail through a 7805. The 8.9V rail is filtered by a 470uF capacitor. The 7805 has an other 470uF capacitor on its input, and a 1000uF on its output. So when the switching transistor switches on the 7805, it switches a discharged 470uF on the 8.9V rail, which only has an other 470uF for filtering. This is a huge inrush current, and the 1000uF on the output of the 7805 also adds to that. Not great, I would say. As I suggested above, I would replace the 470uF on the 8.9V rail to 680-1000uF. The ESR of the original 470uF probably gone up a bit, but it was probably only marginally working from the factory, due to this bad design decision.
@@mrnmrn1 Ah, I have to admit, it hadn't even occurred to me that the problem might be on the upstream rail (but I also didn't go and actually look at the schematic, because I'm lazy). That just shows how it does really pay to look at the larger picture and not just focus on a single piece or component, though.. nice investigation work!
Nice detective work! And the VCR at the end was hilarious. I use alcohol swabs but this IPA on paper trick is nice and cheaper. I just don't like have too much flammable liquids at home.
On the arcade games that I used to service (and still sorta do as a phone support tech for an arcade company) CRT monitor on older games does nothing but "click" or "Tick". Usually we trace that back down to a fried H.O.T. (Horizontal Output Transistor). And normally while we're in there replacing the driver transistor along with the H.O.T.- I'll recap the board at the same time. Amazing how much cleaner the picture looks afterwards.
I knew so many people who had either this model or a very similar one -- it was great for video gaming in college dorms because it wasn't too small but it wasn't large either.
21:54 Observing the schematic, the way it actually seems to work is the switcher ic selects the composite input source to output to the comb filter, which is always in the signal path, because that's what converts composite to Y+C. The output then goes back into the other set of switches in the ic that switch between composite/s-video/component.
I still have my 20 inch tv with dvd/vcr built-in from back in college. I dont use it much these days because flat screens are better for my eyes. That tv still works as good as it did brand new in 2003.
My mom for many years owned a black flatscreen CRT that I swear was an Orion brand although i can't exactly remember because she also owned a much older Orion branded VCR and that VCR took *years* of almost daily use recording playing rewinding and both of them were super reliable, I wasn't too shocked to see the tube being Orion brand but that also means even though its towards the end of the CRT era it should be reliable for a good long time, seeing as how it didn't really get used when you found it. Great stuff as always Adrian!
If its "actually from the 90s" & a higher grade model it for sure has S video. That was a must as everything had S video in "1998" etc that i ever saw. Edit- I am positive I have two Orion sets. Bought cheap after led tv became popular. One still in the box with the Future Shop receipt and warranty, never used, the other lightly used. I can't remember if they have S video but the spot to connect everything is up at easy access. The receipt date was late 2004/early 2005 so the last gasp of crt tv. The box states something like "High quality TV". I bought it for a relative who after decided he wanted a big flat screen so here it sits. I also have an MTC that looks a lot like a clone of Adrians set i use to test dvd players on. There's been a few cases where faulty components were going out to customers and companies. Both transistors and caps.
I found an even older Toshiba CRT on the street too. Dragged it home and it still works. An older black 19" model. And now Toshiba and Ricoh are going to merge.
We had a really nice Philco that was a 'flat' CRT in the early early 90's. Lots of digital on-screen controls (in green!), pretty nice size, and beautiful black case and metal grill speaker covers on both sides of the screen. It was really nice. I can't find evidence that it ever existed - or who actually made the TV, as Philco is sort of one of those non-brand brands.
Philco US was owned by Philips since 1981. It was its own brand before becoming a Philips subsidiary. But you're right, flat CRT were a thing (but not quite common) in the late 80's/early 90's before becoming ubiquitous in the 2000's to align with LCD screens.
I've got a bit of a headache with swapping the smaller electrolytics with MLCCs. The ESR you measured seams not to be uncommon for an electrolytic of this voltage rating and capacitance. The MLCCs you used as a replacement are most likely X7R or Y5V, so they have a more or less significant capacitance over voltage derating. If they're used as bypass capacitors than it might be OK, but a higher ESR cap might also have been chosen on purpose... I also believe that swapping the larger cap did not fix the actual problem as the voltage dip is still there, just somewhat less pronounced. So the power supply is still marginal. I'm with @mrnmrn1's post here.
I recently salvaged an old EMac from mid-90's from an old lady who was about to toss it. Now I am not so interested in the Mac components but it does have a really nice nearly flat shadow mask CRT. She also said it had not been used for a long time and when new it was not used much either. The machine has seen at most 100 hours of operation. I have yet to disassemble the machine, but I am expecting the CRT's Cathode to be nearly pristine. Keeping it for eternity or until it breaks, because these things are becoming exceedingly rare. If only I'd realized BEFORE I tossed a beautiful trinitron CRT (approx 10 yrs ago) with ultra fine aperture grille, how valuable they'd become. I love LCDs but CRT's gives the retro stuff a pure look like nothing else. I am hoping there's some genius little guy sitting in a little office somewhere in China or Japan working on a way to make flexible OLED displays with a bulge so they resemble CRTs in appearance.
Good job, as mentioned elsewhere, I'd also check/swap other caps that are feeding the regulator that supplies that 5V rail, maybe even the pass transistor is a tad low in gain.
Yeah with my VCR I find that sometimes a bad tape will do that. I just run a clean new self recorded tape in it for about an hour and gradually the picture comes back until it is bright and vibrant again.
"The Cap Plague." 😄 According to the story I heard, it was a case of industrial espionage which went very wrong. One capacitor manufacturer tried to steal another manufacturer's chemical formula for the insides of electrolytic capacitors, but the formula which they stole was the equivalent of an "early draft" which had not been properly balanced. The formula was followed exactly and because it was wrong, it caused the early failure of all of the capacitors manufactured by that company. Edit1: I just noticed that you have Cubic Player running in the background! I wish I could find more module files to play. The main problem with Cubic Player is that these days it has to be run through DosBox and that isn't always reliable. Edit2: I've had a TV with exactly that same problem. It started clicking when I tried to turn it on with the remote, then after a little while it would start up. The problem gradually got worse and worse until it wouldn't start at all. I replaced the power supply capacitors (they were bulging) and the problem went away. I've heard of caps going bad without bulging, though.
I t used to be so common to open up a computer in the very late 90"s early 00's and see capacitors with the vents popped and dried electrolyte on top. Even 1 year old computers would start rebooting and freezing up, and you'd open the case and find split caps. In 05 I got a job doing desktop support and the guys that had been working there said an absolute boatload of the Dell computers the company was using (1600 person office) had this issue, they were replacing motherboards and pc's like crazy.
Yeah I run OCP on my Pentium with a SB16 and it just works perfectly. What a great program! I've been curating my module collection going back to my Amiga days. I liken it to a CD collection! As for the caps -- yeah I don't really get why it seems late 90s good brands are kind of junk too. I assume it was cost cutting to be more competitive with the stolen formulas? And that cheapening resulted in them going bad more quickly. Just such a difference between caps from the 80s....
You should use the tweezer lead that comes with the DE-5000. It does four wire measurements that should be more accurate without the extra resistance and inductance of the multimeter leads.
Yeah, component is Y/Cb/Cr colorspace. Luminance and coordinate of blue and red. It's a more efficient way to store color information than RGB. The wikipedia page for YCbCr is very informative.
Exactly was expecting to see the SCART!! My 2005 Samsung has 2 scart sockets one of them marked as RGB. I used to connect a DVD player there when it was working then dvd went completely bad a few years ago. The TV is still being used for watching some cartoons and music with an aerial broadcasting STB.
ssssuuper cool video - chuckled massively at the start especially 🤣 hope I can steal that optimism you have launching into troubleshooting - love it ❤️
I picked up a Logitech Harmony remote years ago, way back in the day, I figured if technology would leap forward and I got my hands on some old tech that none of the new remotes might work for old devices. Plus I had like 8 things in my bedroom back in the 90s or 2000s whenever I got that remote, it was nice it even worked my window air conditioner! Great remote!!
As someone who's handled a crapton of CRT's as ewaste, the majority of the middle sized ones incorporate some sort of handles, either in the sides or on the back/top.
I need to thank you dude. I am a computer science guy with experience in frontend backend, and a lot of different languages and tech stacks. I am currently working as an educator in the field. When i see you start going about hardware with all.. ratatata, this is the same when I start showing and explaining code. The way my brain works when listening your bs about hardware must be similar to my students when they listen to me when i start going about code. So, thanks for the perspective.
I have that same exact Panasonic Super VCR VHS player that still works to this date. It has the problem of playing older VHS tapes in SLP and EP (4 hr and 6 hr formats). It plays and tracks regular SP (2 hr) tapes. But yes! Neat you fixed it cleaning the tape head. I haven't cleaned mine since owning it from like 2002 or some day then. As far as CRT TVs I think I had a simple diode problem failure but I added to the problem by cracking my bottom power board as the TV maker confused me as to extra set of screws that needed to be removed hidden at the bottom holding that board in place when trying to remove the back on a 2005 RCA CRT TV with those same number of accessory ports also for inputs and outputs to the TV.
Component video has two color difference signals and Lunarence inputs. The Luna input jack also carries the sync signal (both H and V). It should accept a monochrome composite input on the Luna jack.
Nope, 2000's era TV sets turn on in less than five seconds, if they don't something has gone wrong. These TVs dont hava any other tube than the fast response CRT. BTW, if this an attempt at sarcasm, it never adjusts well in written form.
CRT TV sets ftw, I also still game on a crt, in fact I have 2 identical units from Bang & Olufsen (a design electronics company in Denmark) one is from 2004 and the other is from 2006… yes 2006!, the model is: BeoVision MX4200, to bad they didn’t release this tv in the USA 😢 the design is excellent.. glad you fixed yours Adrian 👍
Hi adrian, Ray Burke here, I have the same DE 5000 capacitance meter. When measuring ESR of Electrolylics, you need to use the 100 KHz for ESR. You might check the Data Sheets for the capacitors you are testing they are online by Manufacture. It is usually listed at the top of the chart. Most Capacitance testers can test ESR in circuit, pull part if high. Most people have trouble using that high end Capacitance testers like DE 5000. Good luck from Ray Burke, I live in Oregon City.
I don't know, you don't just lose more than 20% capacitance over time without other traits of the cap shifting as well. ESR and the leakage. Theese are not strictly constant, they can drift depending on the soak voltage, which is why the measurement might not come out quite as bad as what it really is like. Capacitance often secondary to in-circuit behaviour like that.
@@SianaGearz definitely, you can have reasonably good capacitance, but far too high esr, you really need to check both to be sure a capacitor is bad or not, as a capacitor degrading from say 10uf to 5uf could still have a reasonably good esr
Looks like the AT is having fun in the background :) I have one of these TV's.. It was a thrift store rescue. I imagine its about 20 years old. It has some of the same issues this one does. I used to play the video from my digital camera which has video output.
Amazing video as always!! I have a special video request. While I understand all the need for caution and disclaimers when getting into a CRT, I would still like to learn what to look out for and how to repair one. My request is to create a video showing exactly what special tools would be required to get started. I’m also nearly positive you do some work discharging capacitors between turning power off and getting back into the CRT. What is that complete procedure and can we please see it?
I notice that TV right off the first time I watched your videos. I had the same TV I used to play my old retro game consoles on and left it in my last house as I did not have room for it in my storage when I moved out. And was homeless in a shelter for 3 months tell I found a place. It is a great TV for retro gaming.
Glad to hear you're back on your feet! Hopefully someone is using that TV still -- and someone didn't just throw it out. (Like this one, left on the street ...)
I still have the 30" HD CRT Toshiba made, and it looks very similar including the handles. Not a great TV for retro, but unlike a panel, I can put videos-for-cats on it and not worry about it getting smacked.
As an European, my symathy to all US tech enthusiasts for not having scart, it makes life so much easier, scart wasn't just audio/video with everything from composit to rgb on it, it also had control bus, so componets could control each other, synchro start, channel change etc. Connector was relatively big with 2 rows of well spaced easy to solder pins, so making custom cables was pretty easy.
Sometimes when the heads are grimy enough and IPA doesn't cut it, I'll CAREFULLY use a bit of acetone and a swab before using the IPA and paper again. That tends to work wonders, but I definitely recommend sticking with it as a last resort if isopropyl alcohol and paper isn't cutting it.
lol i can't believe the VCR broke down as well, why do these things always come up just after you've fixed one thing 😆 Like in that other video where the power strip was broke! Makes you feel crazy sometimes
Since the late 90s. Orion was building full chassis, not just the CRT. Almost everyone was outsourcing to Oriion to design and build their chassis for them.
