I finally got myself a metal lathe, making some parts for my strength testing machine with it, and going over issues with it. Metal lathe in this video: s.vevor.com/bfQKTC Discount Code VVSALE5 (5% off)
something... something... Dark Side! congrats, MW! despite their limitations those are are remarkably versatile machines. I look forward to seeing the uses you dream up for that thing! Play safe!
I watched your video about your mini lathe after going over this one and realized most of the flaws I noticed are pretty common with these lathes. Yours also has the useless metalized plastic angle indicator for the cross slide.
But would either of you be willing to dive deep into the world that is 3D printing? One could make their very own 3rd arm capable of lifting a metal workbench.
open box: first thought "let's disassemble it", second thought let's customize it, third thought let's make one from scratch, final thought.... let's make another but bigger and better, repeat
it's a "minila the" - they're always a work in progress. He should get a real big-boy lathe and not muck around with these toys. You buy a mini lathe if you want to muck with it, you buy a real lathe if you want to make actual parts
God is the One God, the One and Only, the Eternal, the One who did not give birth, nor was He begotten, and there is no one equal to Him, Who taught man everything.
Ferrous metal is when machining starts to get real. Before then you can pretty much ignore everything and it all still works. But at a certain hardness things get hard. Then your surface speed matters. Along with as you say rigidity. The more marginal the setup the closer you have to be to optimal for things to work.
I was thrilled to see this video as I took a community college continuing Ed course in metal shop and was looking a a potential purchase of a desktop metal lathe. Thank you!
Agreed, you need to get the machine properly secured and dialed in, in its default state it may need a fair amount of adjustment depending on the seller. But once done i have no issues with machining steels like 1040, O2, and 303 and 17-4 stainless within the size limits of the machine
When Matthias used the angle grinder I felt a great disturbance in the Force... as if millions of machinists cried out in terror and were suddenly silenced
@@chaklee435 That lathe weighs 150 pounds. It is only 1100watts but it will eat your arm and make its way to your head. Don't underestimate a small lathe they are way more fatal than a table saw.
There's something that tickles me about a trained engineer who worked on the original Blackberry explaining "I turn the screw and it jams it in there real good."
@@mr.somebody1493 I had an LG clone of a blackberry that I brought in 2012 that I just replaced last year and there was nothing wrong with it it's just they got rid of the network
Congratulations! Last week I purchased my old English lathe, it's a long time dream come true. I hope you get a lot of use out of it, and I look forward to the future videos!
A metal lathe opens up many possibilities not achievable with any other machine. The bearing appears to be a sintered part so is inherently not as strong as a solid. As you are well aware we learn so much from experiments that don't succeed. I really respect your honesty in trying and failing on the path to good solutions; real life in the shop. Many thanks for your quality content. senior from Ajax
Cut an angle block from a scrap piece of wood at 29deg so you can set the compound angle against the chuck for single point threading. This will reduce the load on the threading tool which should reduce chatter when threading. I use a similar block to set my 12in swing metal lathe. I normally leave my compound at the 29deg so I am ready for threading.
@@matthiaswandelyou can go straight in Matthias, just use both the compound slide (set in the usual position perpendicular to the cross slide) to add a side cutting element, ie, zero both cross slide and compound slide dials (or at least note the start positions of both) then for each pass, go in 0.003” on the cross slide and add 0.001” on the compound slide (or equivalents). This should ensure you only cut on one edge of the tool and will help remove the chatter
@@matthiaswandel ThisOldTony has an excellent video on thread cutting that covers the hows and whys of cutting at 30 deg (~29) can help. It's worth a watch if you haven't seen it yet.
Hi Matthias, glad that you have joined the metal hobby lathe group. I have the Vevor 7” x 14” Metal/Wood lathe model CJ18A and it needs a lot of fine tuning. You will find that the more ridged you make the base the better it will preform. Keep up the great job on the videos
I'm really impressed with your craftsmanship! Great job overcoming the flaws. Really impressed with the hand crank for cutting threads. Thanks for sharing!
I had a 7x10 mini metal lathe to replace ferrules and tips on pool cues in the 2000's. Making joint protectors with old pool balls was fun. Seeing all you've done to this one makes me wonder how bad off mine was. It spun true, but the only thing I did was wipe off the shipping grease.
To be fair manufacturers have had 20 years to learn how minimum viable a product can get before their target audience gives up and ships back the product.
I have been waiting for this day! I have been following you since pretty much the beginning Matthias, I have made one of your 20" bandsaws, a bunch of sets of the shelves you designed, and also the sawhorses. Looking forward to any upcoming metalworking content!
The surface finish you show at 10:30 looks like what you get when you machine brass with a cutting tool that has a sharp point. A cutter with a rounded point can produce a mirror finish on brass.
Making the crank with the lathe itself is like a paradox. The machine made itself better. We in the 3D printer business know this great feeling. Great review. It looks like typical Vevor quality control, lol
In most (if not all?) of his machine builds, Matthias uses the partially finished machine to do useful work. E.g. using a half-finished bandsaw with an improvised table to cut the trunions for the tilting table.
Thanks Mathias for your perspective. I've always wanted to get into a bit of metal work, but am apprehensive after looking at the cost and how much I'd use it.
Can’t wait to see more metal lathe content! I got the exact one last week! I’ve been watching your videos for years. (first video was of you shooting marbles out of a homemade air gun)
The tuning and modifications required really do give me early 3D printer vibes Though any time someone suggests he get a 3D printer I have to remind myself that he can freehand a gear on the band saw better than I can make one in CAD lol.
Ah industrial arts was a favourite class in high school. One side had dedicated machines for woodwork with lathes, bandsaw, jointer etc and metal working with milling machine, lathe plus welding on the other. The variety of skills taught blew my mind and contributed to becoming an engineer. So fond are those days I ended up building a smaller but well equipped wood working facility and crude metal working. Yes a metal lathe would be nice. So Matthias, keep living my dreams.
Can't wait till the green BIG metal lathe materializes. :D Awesome stuff, Matthias - the threading crank was just your cup of tea type solution. LOVED it! I am considering a mini lathe myself. :) This was awesome, because threading seems to be a difficult process - the wooden crank was inspiring!
I get an old Schäublin 102 lathe from the 1970th some weeks ago. Still improving my skills, but even if the think is more 50 years old, when I see this cheap hobby lathe, I'm confident to have a wonderful tool to learn!
I ran multiple brands of lathes in the past. Everything in your "needs work" section of this video pretty much highlighted everything that is necessary to have on a lathe, but is not found on this brand's lathe. Fascinating.
Honest review, they work, but plenty of room for improvement. Amazing product for the price. Watched many of your videos, enjoy the experience machining. Cheers!
I also just got a vevor mini lathe, but didn't think to look at their site first. It's a fun little machine, but like you said just about everything needs a little tune up
The amount of modifications I've made to mine would make anyone's head spin. That being said, I loved every bit of each modification! Great video Matthias!
Bolting it directly to a sturdy bench will reduce vibration and thereby chatter a lot, thatoldtony talked about it in his video about mini lathes, a must watch if you buy one of these i think
Great video, thanks! Really helpful that you went through the shortcomings and your fixes. Because of your successes, gives me the confidence to give one a try. Have been held back because the lathe seemed like it couldn't handle steel, but you show it can be done! 😮
I like the way he modifies off-the-shelf parts to reduce machine work. For instance, turning down the outside of those coupler nuts and then parting them off to make the adapters and the bushing--which also used the threads for added stability and concentricity.
I saw the short you made about leaving the chuck key in the chuck. Having been guilty of this I can tell you that having a chuck key fly out of a chuck is not a way to improve your day. Most every machinist I’ve worked with make a habit of laying it on the headstock of the lathe. Some even make a bracket for the chuck key on the side of the lathe, anything to keep it out of the chuck. I love your videos and appreciate your laid back style of doing woodwork. Stay safel
My university’s lab has a safety switch that you have to put the chuck key in for it to turn on. They added those after several were embedded into drywall.
Thanks for the video, Matthias! As a retired millwright you’ve peaked my interest in smaller hobby machine work. One tip is to make sure your tool is centred on the stock you’re machining. Some of your finishes look like they may be due to this. Use some tool steel and sandwich it vertically between your tool and the stock you’re machining. It the tool is dead centre of the stock, your tool steel should be perfectly vertical. Another thing that will drastically improve the cuts you’re making is buying a carbide cutting tool especially with the underpowered unit!
My head is about to explode... Watched you forever Matthias and never EVER thought I would see this day. ha ha. I realize you're probably not going to "get into" machining extensively but I have often wondered of all the cool ideas that you would come up with if you added this to your skillset. It was cool to see just in the span of this video how you had improved as you were obviously working things out mechanically as you went along. Very glad to see you backing off the cross slide after you originally were reversing the threading tool through the cut. Definitely would love to see more and hear more about what you do with the machine. Congrats... Now you can cut round metal pieces. Next you have to get a knee mill so you can cut square things. :-)
Ok, I'm not a machinist either, just a wood butcher. But I can truthfully say, I've never watched one of Matthias' videos and thought, "Oh, I've seen this before" A Canadian treasure!
Mathias, you want something really, really stiff to mount the lathe to. Stiffness helps reduce chatter and will help keep you from breaking cutters. Artisan Makes has some good videos on this. Also be careful with the cross-slide for the drill press. Drill presses aren't meant to take side loads, so you may have issues if you try to do anything "heavy" with it.
Good point! Tried to do some milling on my drill press. The chuck is mounted with a Morse taper that will not tolerate side loads. Milling machines use a drawbar to hold the chuck or collet in, drill presses do not.
With the threading gears obviously the metric ones are complete stuff ups, but I think the imperial threads have just forgotten to mention that you need a 100 to 127 tooth gear ratio before the gears they're saying (thats the normal conversion gear because .5" = 12.7mm exactly)
Love the almost automatic customizing of it lol. I get a discount on their stuff through my work and I've gotten quite a few things. The quality seems to be on par with Harbor Fright and Wen, which is fine, you get what you pay for and with even the simplest maintenance it will last for years. Thanks for the review because I've been eyeballing one of those for a while now.
Matthias! I'm so happy for you to get your first lathe. I have been following for at least 10 years and I have been to be a machinist more than twice as long as that. I'd love to donate some cutting tools with some more forgiving geometry's.
I should note, I run a shop older than I am and have lots of old and very small, for the work we do, unused brazed tools. So at no personal loss I get to give back to the channel, win win 😂 right!?
what sort of cutting tools? Carbide brazed onto a carrier? I ordered some HSS blanks, but they didn't arrive until I face cut that disk towards the end.
I'm not keen on it being direct drive. That's going to be a limiting factor. The name of the game is torque at low speed. With a direct drive lathe you get what you get and there's nothing you can do to improve things. I'm sure stock it's not nearly good enough too.
Paper towel over the bed is easy protection for sawdust sticking to oiled surfaces when working wood. I like the hand wheel mod - very creative. I see a lot of lathes having E-Stop over the back but they really should have them up front.
I find that Vevor is excellent for the entry level tools. Got a quiet air compressor from them and it works great. Not capable of more than using a nailer in the PSI department but that's all I need other than airing up tires and dusting computers.
I got into hobby metal machining 30 years ago before the internet. With my small lathe I run in reverse and my cutters upside down, the cutter needs to be on center of the stock being cut. Cover you ways with a board when grinding and clean it after. You doing much better than me when I first started for never using a metal lathe.
Yes, the mini lathe as shipped is more of a "suggestion" on how to put the casting kit together. I'm sure your tips will be greatly appreciated! And yes, Vevor does have some good stuff. I quite fond of the annular cutters I got there.
Hey Mathias, When threading, you want to set your compound to a whisker under 30 degrees, and feed it using that. This Old Tony posted a fabulous video about single point threading which I heartily recommend.
I'm going to make the simular hand crank for my lathe (1 size larger), it makes a lot easier. And the parting tool, I made a holder for my angle grinder to be fitted in the toolpost. And that "bronze bushing" was a sinterbronze bushing with some steel powder to get better/cheaper results.
A very useful "upgrade" on these little lathes is to remove the compound slide and replace it with a solid block of steel or cast iron. For most cuts you don't need it, and a solid mount for the tool post greatly improves the rigidity. I still use mine for small jobs, despite owning another lathe that's over ten times the mass.
About time. You do need a really solid base for that lathe though. I like using stone countertop cutoffs. You can often find them for free. The more stiffness the better the lathe will perform. use a precision stone for the machined parts.
I went through a lot getting my first lathe, first buying chinese, and then a few different types. Where I came out was buy old South Bend. Prices can be reasonable. There is more aftermarket support for a 1937 SB, than there is for any one of the chinese lathes. They are made immensely better. They are true Imperial (depends how you swing on that). Most chinese lathes are metric, but they put different handles on them and gears to sorta do imperial. I learned both system in school, but after 50 years in the shop, I just threw in the towel over being out of sync with the neighbours and having two systems. One tip for buying SBs is that they come in a variety of levels, and often the cheaper lathes are in better condition because they were bought by small shops, or even hobbyists who didn't put a lot of time on them. While the high end toolroom lathes got a lot of work and may have been desirable to buy up till they got totally clapped out. My first lathes had hand change gears, but it really didn't seem to be more expensive to get a gearbox, so I look for those. However, hand change geared lathes often have better condition, and the gears are a separate proposition to the lathe, so you aren't locked into the condition of the gearbox. There are a lot of other old lathes out there. I owned a beautiful Drummond, but for parts and info one can't beat a South Bend. I have seen them for sale in NB. When the electric motor shop was where the ski shop is now, they used to have old ones from time to time, though Kijiji and Craigs. The other reason to get old iron is that it is not uncommon to come across a deal where the owner throws in everything else he ever bought or found as a package, and you get a fortune of parts basically for free. In the US every part is potentially saleable on ebay, but here, the market is so small, people often just forget it.
On the hand crank, you should consider putting the handle in a bearing (with the same exact bearing on the opposite side as well so you don't get an unbalanced weight) and making the handle removable. That's going to save you a massive headache when the handle gets snagged on something or comes off one day
Good timing. As a fellow woodworker that is finally in the market for a metal lathe I'm following your projects. How about one of those 2" wood tail vise screws using the thread cutter on the lathe?
Very interesting and succinct. I've always wondered what the weak spots of those lathes are. I grew up using a South Bend 14". It's hard to consider something smaller. But who's got room for a South Bend or a Clausing?
Bolt it directly to solid bench and you will notice how much more rigid it becomes. Also add a bit of weight on the bottom tray like some flat pieces of steel etc, that will also help.
As an old man who has spent a lifetime building and woodworking, a metal lath just intimidates me, including a bit of a scare factor! I have always been able to fabricate the metal parts I have needed by hand, not precise but good enough. Just getting a handle on welding was enough to round out my "let's just get it done" attitude about metalwork.
I had one in 2008. They're all made at the same factory. Old Grizzly clones. If you lap and true them up, they're pretty good. I'm a trash machinist, so I quickly converted mine to CNC with NEM23 steppers and ran turboCNC on a DOS 6.22 box I found on the side of the road on recycling day. 😁
