My friends! Drop a comment for the engagement god. Id love to hear your experiences with Bambulab printers, and if you havent yet tried them - will you? Also I forgot to mention that both of these machines are delightfully quiet! I also misremembered the detail about speed: it wasn't 30 minutes faster than the V400, it was 30 minutes LIKE the V400 😅
Cant by Petg from Bambu at the moment here in Australia, been like that for over a month, Keeps saying theres no filament but support cant tell me when or whats happening with the petg basics range. Only thing i have found with them is their stock level is very bad and always running out here in Aus.
I started my FDM Journey with a Prusa Mini, bloody ripper of a printer but I got a Bambulab p1s with the ams and its just so good that my little printer that could was just collecting dust. Bambulabs is just crazy good, closest to plug and play I've ever experienced :D
Got mine recently and it has been a blast no issues yes after every print some filemeant gets stuck between purge wiper and nozzel but great quality plus ams is great I also just found about about the parts option in the app its a w also only the first layer always has elephants foot its a problem with the z offset but it is ok because it does not effect much
I bought a P1S about 11 months ago to print 40K terrain to run tournaments. I had minimal experience printing FDM when i bought it. Up to this point, I've printed around 30 entire tables of terrain. These things just work man.
Just finished printing thirty trophies for a friend who is hosting a wargaming tournament, mostly on my P1S. It has 3,372 hours on it as I type this and I'm printing some dungeon blocks terrain on it. Unreal how reliable this printer is.
Post-usage videos are generally better IMO because you (or whoever) realize the stupid things that they messed up during setup, like you mentioned with the filament wiper thing. I'd love to see specifically what you like the print with FDM printers vs resin. Personally I've done a lot of tiles/terrain with my FDM, and I reserve my resin printer for minis.
These printers aren't just for beginners or less technically minded people. I am someone who goes through and adjusts almost every single variable on my prints to get exactly the result I want and I love how easy bambu lab printers are to work with. I almost never have issues or failed prints, I switch materials and spools constantly and the AMS (not the lite one, i dont have that) takes that headache completely out of the equation for me. The speed and print quality is superb and I just can't be happier with it. Your bases being weird like that may be elephant foot compensation. If you loaded a project from maker world and then put your bases into that project it could have printed with those variables. Make sure to start with a fresh project and check under quality > precision elephant foot compensation (XY distance) and then below that elephant foot compensation layers. That's my best guess, I leave it at 1 layer for 0.15mm. I've used tree supports with a different material interface and had no problem. again, could be a weird slicer profile and why I dont ever use other people's profiles because honestly most people don't know the first thing about making a proper print profile.
It feels like most people that call these beginner printers arent really using their printers to PRINT. But instead tinkering the printer is their hobby. And while there is absolutely wrong with that, a LOT of people do not 3d print to tinker with printers at all, and thats OK too. After years and years of "tinkering" with the likes of ender, now i have 10+ hours of work 6 days a week plus kids plus pets plus plus plus. Even if i wanted to just tiker with the printer i legitimately do not have time. And with me selling between 25-50 pcs a week, i just need the printer to print at an appliance level. And for the price absolutely no other company gets even close. Spending the money on a Ender 3 V3 vs a Bambu A1 its absolutely a no brainer for those people that just want to PRINT.
I bought an X1C because I wanted the printing to be my hobby, not the printer itself. I’ve wasted way too much time trying to keep an Ender working consistently, and I’m done with that BS.
Same here. They just work!! Sold my Ender a week after I got my P1S. 1000 prints later and it's still printing amazingly as long as I keep my filament dry.
I have to say, i have had the A1 for about 6 weeks now, and I'm a beginner to 3D printing. I'm impressed, it's practically idiot proof to set up and the procedure is so easy. I will say though, it's worth printing the gantry AMS holder, its on the Makerworld. It is a Bambu Lab upload. They even supply the screws in the Kit they sent you. I found it doesn't impede quality and i haven't noticed any real increase in vibrations. If you want to reduce the footprint, i highly recommend you print this 👍👍
it's perfectly fine to use a metal scraper on a pei plate. you just have to be gentle you won't scratch it. it's much better than whatever plastic contraption you're using.
Most printers these days, these included, have removable build plates. Remove it, flex it, no scraping necessary. I believe this is what he is getting at. You shouldn't need a scraper, you should use your brain and follow how these are designed to be used because it's way easier that way.@@zuppy2
For the printed base angle problem - it looks like for the first 10 layers it's printing faster (because of solid bottom) and then it slows down (hits the layer time limit), but still does not manage to cool the material. Set maximum flowrate under filament parameters to 10-15 mm3/s and see if it helps. If it does - or you need bring down printing speed until flowrate becomes more uniform (check under Preview window and select Flowrate instead of Line type).
I really like this format! It feels a lot more focused and you've already identified the issues and strengths. I find I tune out when you're figuring out the fixes, though I can see that if I bought the printer it might be useful. Hope it isn't a tonne more editing but this seems like a big step up imo. Great vid and review
Bambu Lab has a filament section labeled as support and it tells you what it would be used to support one of them is PVA it supports PLA and PETG and it dissolves in water
I have the A1, A1 mini and the P1S. All three are solid. I too have the V400, but it's relegated to the basement where it gets little love these days... Trying to print with petg broke my spirit before I started printing from a dryer directly. Now it's so fresh and clean on my Bambu printers. I started my collection with the mini combo and I was blown away! Hooked for good. They just work. No tuning, no worries. I want to hit print and walk away. Thanks for your video. I had a user error issue putting my purge wiper on my A1, I didn't push the head over and I guess I trapped the print head and it would not home. I reached out to Bambu, sent them a video and was so pissed. Then I actually looked at assembly instructions online... 😅 that was a wasted day and a half...
You can cut down on the multi material time for support by making the tree support the exact same as the material you are printing in, ect for the last few layers that touch the actual part there is a setting in bambu that will do this for you. Also, purge your poop into your infill.
@@potaterjim hopefully you found the answer, but yes that is exactly where it is. Just be aware about the filament type when doing that. Pooping the PETG into a PLA infill could cause issues. I've never looked into it, but seeing as people use PETG as the interface material because the later adhesion is poor between the two materials, problems could arise. If anyone has tried it, I'd like to hear what you have to say.
Bought an A1 mini 2 weeks ago. After 30 mins I was printing stuff like there was no tomorrow. Zero tweaks, just click and print. You can even check how your print is going remotely from your mobile phone as it’s got an integrated camera pointing at the model. Incredible speed and accuracy. Click and print. This is a marvel of technology and you will just throw your old printer away without even thinking about it.
Not sure if anyone has commented but with supports you can set it up in the slicer to only use the support filament for the last couple of layers so it massively reduces the time to print something as it doesnt have to keep changing the filament for every layer
I got an A1 Mini and the thing just prints. It is my first printer and I waited for more than five years to get one, since I always was intrigued by the idea of solving small issues with quick designs and prints, but never wanted trouble shooting a printer to be my new hobby. I have not had to manually change anything on the printer so far and it has printed great results every time I used it! All that for 200€ in the anniversary sale. I am impressed. Obviously I love the philosophy behind Prusa, but they are so far out of reach for me that I never considered them.
Bambu Labs are adding some good features and innovations to the market, but their price is definitely the biggest selling point. I own a Prusa Mk4 myself, but I've worked with a P1S (and A1 Mini + AMS) at work. I'd put these machines on the same level in terms of ease of use, reliability, and quality of the resulting prints. I went with Prusa because I too like their philosophy, I like the fact that the machine is easy to maintain (though it hasn't needed any replacements or adjustments so far), and I want to support Made in Europe. But for those starting in the hobby, Bambu is an excellent choice and far more affordable. I'm just hoping for an affordable enclosed Core XY printer from Prusa one day.
There is a Bambu Lab printed mod to put the AMS Lite on top of the A1 if you are concerned about space. You will want to rerun calibration when you are done. Also there is an unsupported hack to the AMS Lite to print TPU. Someone figured out how to get it do 4 TPU colors to print for a multicolor print. For the PETG support print, did you make sure it was dried out before use? The stringing can get bad the wetter it gets
Do you have a source or search term to find the "unsupported hack to the AMS Lite to print TPU. Someone figured out how to get it do 4 TPU colors to print for a multicolor print." That's what I need and why I have NOT purchased a Bamboo because it couldn't do it.
@@briandonovan9091I can't post a link in here, but if you search for "How to Print TPU with the Bambu Lab AMS (Mod)" you can find the video of someone who modified their non-Lite AMS to do it and the risks therein. I'm looking for the AMS Lite video I saw and can't find it. You can search for the mod named "AMS Lite TPU Mod" and that will hopefully get you the rest of the way there. Good luck and remember you could permanently mess up your AMS doing this
Picked up the Carbon X1 this year with the AMS. I was printing a plate of terrain yesterday, was a 21 hour print. I ran out of filament on the last two layers. Thank digital jesus for run out detection. I plopped in a new roll of filament, and boom finished the last 20 minutes of printing fine.
With AMS you can load up two to four slots with the same color/type and it will automatically go from one spool to the next. Just go to the device tab and click the little avengers icon. For the AMS, changing filaments is (by necessity) child's play. I'm doing a 20 hour print and have three spools same color PETG loaded up.
I rarely use the AMS for multi color prints. I like having my favorite filaments available without fussing. The other usage is the automatic rollover. Low filament? No worries, just throw a second spool on, and the AMS kicks over to it when it runs through the first one. No more having partial rolls everywhere, or having to watch the status of the spool.
I have had my A1 mini for about 2 months now, the tool headboard quit working and they sent me a free replacement one within days. I am very surprised by well it works. The speed and their customer service
@@shoegum7362 who hasn’t. We all think that it might’ve gone through a portal to another universe but I refuse to believe it and look for it until I find it.
ill say. as someone that was/is part of the croud that wants to fiddel with there printers and make them better, its a breath of fresh air to have one that just.. works every single time i send a print. it has issues whenever i dont like wash the print bed or i ask it to do to much but im leaving my tinkering to my modded ender 3 and my p1s is for when things need to get done
The printer and filament profile actually come from Prusa. Bamboo slicer is a derivative work from Prosa slicer. The ptfe tube from the spool to the head is there to avoid dudden sharp pulls when the head moves, which can lead to filament entanglement.
I’ve not had good success printing mini figures, but have had amazing results printing vehicles. I printed two leman russes from station forge and they look incredible. I use 2mm nozzle at .06mm height. You need to be a bit creative with slicing and placement but holy crap they look awesome! And way more durable than resin prints. I can drop them off the table and barely have any damage to show for it.
brilliant thanks! I've got an adventurer 4, that I bought shortly before the bamboo came out, just as the anker make came out, and skipped the anker make due to the old style nozzle. seeing you change the nozzle means I can happily buy a bamboo printer when the adventurer dies the adventurer has many problems that I seem to have finally fixed due to wear in, and rolling back to a functional firmware. but it's pretty reliable once you've worked out the kinks, but the bamboo is so much better.
Glad the points came through for you. Funny how they then noticed OIASS afterward, huh? I respect how their systems are a premium and you get what you expect you should get. Pretty much plug-and-play instead of the engineering side falling onto us. I would like to see what happens if they enter the Resin side of printing. They do still have major downsides, specifically, these should not be used in businesses that need NDAs or higher. But, for the majority of us, they are perfect.
@@kind3r_sol Yes, but from others who had gotten inside, they also stored the previous jobs and details. Even after a full reset, once it eventually connected the it was sent with the current request. This is why I said for NDAs and up it is a risk and can land you in jail. Additionally, they get the Gcode as well for each print, the items could be remade by someone else. I don't think that would happen but it is theoretically possible. But, as I said, for most of us, this would not apply.
@@RoseKindred I challenge your assertion. Your printer does NOT auto upload its print info/log or anything like that in lan mode or after a factory reset. Please point me to your sources I have wireshark and a router monitoring traffic and nothing of what you are saying is true. SD card only is an option Lan only mode does not leak data or even attempt to look for the net. Vlan works fine sending files via FTP works fine Cloud(obvious) connects to the cloud. but the other options are viable too but log data does NOT auto upload. Please see X1+ team for more info as they have unfettered access to the linux OS for a long time and none of what you are saying was found. The ONLY time a log file is uploaded, optionally, is with a trouble ticket. Source Owned an X1C for 2 years.
You can indeed skip all the pre printing calibrations and just keep Bed levelling, but that entails changing startup GCodes. BambuLab probably will not offer support on errors if you do this, but I do it to mitigate that awful rumbling calibration thingy when I print late (it actually can be felt and heard throughout the house).
Buy the Bambu support material for pla. When you use petg the nozzle has to heat up to petg temp then cool down to pla temp. Bambu pla support material heats at the same temp but doesn't stick to the pla, and you're only paying for the interface layers when it comes to the support material. I use it and it works great for me m
i got an a1 mini as my first fdm printer a few weeks ago, i had a resin printer as my first. I was immediatly underwealmed by the printer because it would fail to calibrate and the printer wouldn't work, so I had to reach out to customer support which is never fun, first message from them was asking if they tried the usual stuff you'd get from googling this problem. their second message to me was that they where sending me a new extruder unit, almost no hassle with the customer support, immediately shipped out an extruder unit after confirming the problem, every since I've gotten the new unity the printer has been working amazingly, its a really good first fdm printer
Gotta say that I'm in the same camp. When people ask which 3D printer to get as their first I tell them to look at the Bambu lineup and get whatever's in their budget. They Just Work™
Just another comment for an FYI. The flat part on the back of the nozzles that touch the little heater block and sensor. As you get oils from your fingerprints, you'll see a little rectangular rust spot. Try keeping that as clean as possible to make sure your temperatures stay good. There are people that have had massive blobs of death and their A1 gets ruined. I have a feeling that could be part of the problem. It doesn't know what the temperature is and it gets way too hot. I swapped my nozzles all the time and tend to just wipe it down with some alcohol.
I have one Bambu P1s and one FLSun S1, When I need to print complex multi-color models, I fire up my P1S. When I'm printing larger models like helmets, I usually use the S1. I absolutely love them .
Hey mate. Now you have the scraper i was talking about for removing models from resin build plates the problem is you put the push block (the bit you had to reprint) on the wrong side and back to front.
I just bought an A1/ams combo and am patiently waiting for it to arrive. I do wish it had a direct drive rather than a Bowden tube system, but the overwhelmingly positive reviews of this printer make me not care about that issue too much. Can't wait to try it out.
18:30 with big flat parts on the A1, the edges tend to peel up off of the plate. Just enough to look a bit wonky. Any big round or square parts, I use a healthy dose of glue stick, then I take paper towel, soak it in IPA, and spread the glue stick around nice and even. But that is after I make sure that I either use a brim or the mouse ears, I do use Orca slicer not Bamboo slicer. I don't remember if mouse ears are on bamboo slicer. Mouse ears essentially are just tiny brims that only go on like very sharp corners to keep them from rising off the bed. Also maybe bump up your bed temperature another 5°. And always have a deeper tool to get the little edges off. 🥂 Also, also, try adjusting your print temperatures. If the brim and the glue stick don't help. I tend to run my first layer cooler which kind of helps with oozing on the first layer too. But by thought, process is if it doesn't have to cool down as much, it might not warp as much. And it's strange that it's just such a slight amount of warping.
Good tips. I am getting curling edges on large flat prints.. it’s like the bed isn’t heated evenly at the edges.. I have tried brims (couldn’t find mouse ears in Bambu studio :( only in p slicer
I plan to ask my wife for one this Christmas. Really looking forward to printing some miniatures for my wargaming. I am not really worried about print times since it takes me like a week just to paint 4 or 5 miniatures. Looks like the .2mm nozzle is the way to go for smaller items in finer detail.
After years of stress filled printing with Other well known brands of fdm, I brought a A1. It was well worth it. From the WTF!!! as it 1st sets up, to the ease of slicing and sending the file to get printing without all the stress and worry of the SD cards and walking up and down stairs to the print room all day as it has a cam built in. Thats proper priceless. Even has a little LED light to brighten the shot at night. I will be buying another. They do say not to be used in a enclosure because the control boards got no assisted cooling, Well, i tinkercaded a wrap around cooler duct with a 120mm fan filling the two vents with cool air from below the enclosure, Its running perfectly printing ABS and Carbon with a HD nozzle. The Z uprights get warm though so i may extend the cooling.
Great video! Ok I have noticed that it is most likely not my fault to assemble the scraper like you did the first time as well! Here comes the fun news: you have to assemble it UPSIDE DOWN! Why on earth, I don't know, maybe that's a chinese thing? But if you look really carefully at the project images you can see the ramp where you assume your thumb goes that it is actually the bottom for the blade, so it can sail even more shallow over the plates! The scraper bumper is not to protect your thumb, but to actually push against it while still being protected 😀So folks, if you look at 11:03 you have to turn the bumper around by 180° and then assemble it from the bottom against the scraper. So you can see those two black screws and the sharpness of the blade from the top. Funny it happened to you as well!
yeah man.... Bambu Lab is a great company. I just recently purchased a P1P as my first 3d printer and I couldn't be happier. The user experience with this company is CLEARLY a priority
if you liked that little bedslinger.. wait until you get ur hands on a x1c with an ams. then you discover filaments that dissovle easy that you can use for supports. oh the joy of never picking off supports anymore, and the "exotic" filaments that suddenly is possible with a chamber that can do 50c are so cool!
Minor nitpick: It isn't a purge tower, it's a prime tower. The poops are generated by purging. The prime tower is used to get the filament flowing smoothly after the material swap.
3 months using my mini I just realized I had that scraper blade sitting on my desk thanks to you and I think I used those screws for the spool holder bc I have a bag with two screws that says spool holder 😂💀 live and learn thanks
The change in angle on the bases is a byproduct of the base going from the solid top to the hollow bottom. Basically the plastic is going to suffer from more contraction on the layers where there is more physical plastic. Google "benchy hull line" if you want to go further down that rabbit hole - but it's an enigma no one has figured out how to mitigate 100%.
You did the same thing I think a lot of us have done - you put the screws in the scraper wrong. They go in from the blade side, with the thumb grip on the plastic side.
I have a P1S and an X1C and absolutely love them. I have the AMS systems for both and two of them on my X1C. It’s awesome having backup filaments of multi color printing.
I sold my crap Bambu P1P and bought a Flashforge 5M for less than a third of the price adn haven't looked back. I had nothing but trouble and crap service from Bambu. I can buy three more of these 5M now!!! No problems other than the usb slot and I'm printing daily !!!
Ha! I love that you bought the printer user MakerWorld points. I bought the X1C and now I’m an addict on MakerWorld, Ive gotten two AMS’, and I haven’t paid for filament in 6 months, and have almost 1,900 hours on my printer in that time. I love the points and I hope they don’t go away
I bought to a1 mini after buying a p1p and I can definitely recommend the a1 mini as a starter AND if you're wanting to do multi color prints I like the AMS lite more than the AMS personally. However, don't knock uniformation! I just got the GW Two and it's been a game changer for printing!
24:56 ive noticed that when using the option to select a specific support interface filament, it doesnt actually do the filament swap if the contact patch is too small, or too fat apart. Under advanced support options, change Top Z Distance and Top Interface Spacing to 0, and it should actually work.
Thank you so much for this review and the other 2 vids. Bought the A1 mini as my fist 3d printer after watching this and it has been a breeze. Such a good introduction to 3d printing.
I have the X1C and the AMS is just so convenient, just have your most used filaments already in it and select it in the slicer without needing to change filament. The X and P series AMS is much more compact though since you can just sit it on top. I mainly print practical models and drone or robot parts but multi material printing has its uses. I have printed polycarbonate (PC) combined with some sections printed in a polycarbonate blended with PTFE (PC-PTFE) which has great wear resistance and low friction and is self lubricating but it is expensive, so most of the part is normal PC and the PC-PTFE is only where it is needed. If the AMS worked with flexibles like TPU it would be much more useful though. I have also made electronics enclosures and panels using different colours of PETG, including transparent. I have used a base colour for the part, another colour for text or diagrams on the surface and then transparent to have basically little windows for indicator LEDs to shine through.
I was hesitant at first because of the price and because I was afraid other filaments wouldn't work with their AMS system. I then bought a cheap ender clone that I had to constantly repair, so parts soon doubled the price after replacing almost every part twice. Then it failed completely and I bought another of the same. At this point I'd spend well over $600 and the second one stopped moving on the x axis and needed a new main board because they no longer supported the one I had bought and didn't have a pinout for any custom firmware and I'm nowhere near smart enough to figure that out. I just ordered a P1P since you can upgrade it and it's recently been on sale. I'm glad to see that you've had one of those "game changing" moments. That's what I'm hoping for.
I do all my terrain in draft mode 5% infill and the print quality is out of this world and I have been around the block with 3D printers. My workflow has greatly improve with my designs because of the printer. I take more chances and push the envelope because of how fast it prints.
I'm not sure about the A1 AMS, but I have a P1S and the AMS is amazing because it's a dry box and it makes loading and switching filaments between prints sooooooo much easier. And it's also great because if one spool runs out of filament, it can load another spool, so you never get failed prints because of running out of filament
AMS Lite will switch spools as well, plus it handles cardboard spools with grace. I like it a little better than the original AMS. The way I go through filament, nothing last long enough to get wet, except all those leftovers that accumulate. But now with the Sunlu four slot drier, it's all good.
My Bambu Lab is my sixth 3D Printer, i clocked around 1100 hours in 7 month. Which is about twice as much as i clocked in the Time on my others printers. Totally i am around 6000-7000 hours. I have 3 DIY Kit printers and all my printers were upgraded to Autobed Level. My X1E takes around 5 minutes and with minimal Settings + Autobedlevel to start. Thing is: My other printers needed around 2-3 Minutes for Autobedlevel as well, especially my Tronxy-A5S-400 takes longer then my X1E. They all have moving beds and i think thats the difference, all Beds which move needs to be calibrated from time to time, fixed bed printers like a Voron 2.4 or a Delta don't need it. Personally i have #3 just dissambled and i am rebuilding it as an A1 Type Bed-Pusher: all Linear Rails with a Core XZ mechanism and i am looking to replace my slow Core XY with an Voron 2.4 style but i want to keep the 400x400x400mm capability. I simply don't print on it because it's to slow. To increase the Printspeed: The Flowrate is atm the weakest point, there are Upgrade Options for the X1/P1 series like the ObXidian Hotends that drops the print times again, as Bambu Labs only have an Vulcan Style Nozzle, which is still considered a speed Nozzle. For the A1 there is a CHT Clone on Temu, which may double the extrusion but most likely increase it by 50%. TL;DR: The Speed of the Bambu Labs printers is good and the Autolevel delay normal for an Bedmoving Printer.
thanks for sharing your impressions on this, been thinking about buying a 3d printer for awhile and lately i'm starting to lean towards Bambulab and FDM
I really like the AMS for the sake of multicolored terrain. Ive printed terrain with 3 or 4 colors that look amazing with absolutely no extra work. The poops are a bit excessive and the print time is long, but the result is well worth it.
I am glad you like the Bambu Lab printers. I have 3 of the A1 printers. Two with the AMS lite units and I love them. A nice enhancement for your A1 mini would be to print the adapter I have designed that will allow you to add the AMS lite Rotary Spool Holder. This will help your printing by adding reverse tension on the filament. Then when the extruder retracts the filament during printing, the spool will take up the slack keeping the filament taught. (this is done to stop filament leakage during rapid moves) This is the same operation that is done by the AMS lite. You print out the file I can provide for you and purchase a YELLOW Spool Holder from Bambu Labs for $11.95. If you would like this file please reply and I can set you up with this stl file. I am considering uploading it to MakerWorld. Good day and happy printing.
Just bought an A1 and AMS combo! Love it! I was printing within minutes of setting it up and I don’t know shit about 3d printers. 😂😂. Very FUN. I will be using it to curate my Star Wars room and making useful things. 😄😄😄
Great video! I was so exited to get my P1S--as you said, Bambu holds one's hand the entire way. I was able to jump right in to FDM due to Bambu's ease of use. Great company!
When switching back and forth between PETG and PLA you really have to purge the hell out of the nozzel to get it clean. That being said i had never even thought about using PETG as just the interface material!
I have been 3d printing for years. I would call my self a" tinker pilot". So I known alot of tricks and so on. My creality and me. I felt like I was a crafter...so to start it, I need to do this and that and this. If it is stringing, then that and if the adhesion and so on.. But after 6 years it was tired So I bought a p1s combo.. My problem is now, I don't need all my tinker knowledge is now not needed anymore. I find my self in these wired spot, everytime I start a print.. "I need to...øhh I must øøøhh..." But it just select, slice, print. So now it just a very good tool.
Wow! I haven’t really been that interested in getting a Bambulab printer until after this video. The software integrations with things like print-profiles are really interesting!
The slow startup is a cost I don't mind to have it auto-calibrate to ensure perfect prints nearly everytime I use the printer, with the exception being if the filament is challenging to work with, like TPU.
I bought a P1S/ AMS combo and have been so impressed, all my future printers will be coming from Bambu Lab going forward except a Neptune Max 4 and future resin printers. BL has perfected the FDM printer to a professional grade while making it user friendly and consumer budget friendly. Their product ecosystem makes sense and I just look forward to printing with my P1S rather than having to do trial and error all the time. Can't say enough good praise about the company. My one piece of feedback would be the log files. However, I can overlook that as long as it is kept in check with consumers and BL or if BL would just not receive log files at all unless a support ticket is created, that would be better. "It just works!" Todd Howard
My assumption with the base being weird is a combination of warping and lack of infill at the bottom ring component compared to the solid base that sits above it. There is probably different speeds when printing both sections too. Check out the speed and the flow views when in print preview in bambu studio. When there is a stark change of speed/flow between layers you'll see issues like this as well as a change of the look of the filament from matt to glossy. So you can try to print with supports/brims which can help prevent warping and/or slow down the print so all the layers take roughly the same amount of time to print.
The Base issue looks like bed adhesion...the edges very slightly curl up and then cause the filament to "squish" differently for a few layers. Finger oils on PEI can cause this. Also too much part cooling can also cause this. Also having a draft hit the bed can cause it....Glue stick is a universal fix for this but its messy, if you don't mind post processing a brim in the slicer works. Had this issue with PLA on a few printers. Use a ruler to see if you layer touching the bed has some curvature.
I've printed many hundreds of bases in PLA and PETG and never have a problem with elephant's foot using the stock profile. It's only when I print an item with a large bottom layer that I get peel up. Nice wide brim usually fixes it.
I used cura for vase mode prints. BambuLab and Orca still have a bug in vase mode that creates artifacts / seam otherwise it is a nice slicer. I don't know why they don't offer a cura profile by themselves.
After getting an Anycubic Mono2 and breaking it and making lots of mess with the second one, a FDM mini that just works seems like a vacation. PLA Matt seems like it would be great for my model train needs.
One thing, at least with the premade PLA profiles. They haven't actually customised them that much from what I can tell from the generic PLA profile. Some of the more specialised PLA blends maybe but they might have changed the price per kg and maybe the volumetric flow rate but not so much the cooling or the minimum layer time. Its very minor what they have tinkered with, at least for their common PLA profiles.
You can definitely disable that 5 or however many minute period of time when it's starting up, but you'll likely have to add it to the gcode, i currently have a custom hot-end profile that skips at least 2/4 things it does (like scraping the nozzle on the bed)
I used an anycubic vyper for a little over a year and I just got sick and tired of playing technician. I'd fix it and within a week or so it broke again in some random way. Finally threw up my hands and ordered a p1s and oh my goodness. Why didn't I start with one of these! My vyper now sits in the corner of shame as I refuse to go through that frustration again.
Glad to see you check out the A1 & mini! I originally bouth an A1 that i had to send back due to the heat bed recall. (which was a blessing in the end because it meant with the reimbursement from bambu and a sale i ended getting the updated A1 combo for the same price I originally paid for the A1) I've been getting pretty nice results printing using the .2 nozzle for some figues and minis, although i have to print hotter and slower with off-brand PLA. I even used the AMS lite and printed a bunch of custom dice with the .2 nozzle with color coding for successes, failures, and crits, and keychains with a QR code that goes to my union's join page. When doing different material for supports, you can getaway with only printing the interface layers in the PETG which might save in time - not sure if that will make the prints more reliable though. For the weird angles on your bases, could it be layer squish on the earlier layers? I'm not sure if this might be related to choosing smooth PEI plate in your slicer instead of textured PEI? You could try printing some calibration parts to see if you can reproduce the error.
The reason for having to bypass the AMS for something like TPU is the fact that this material is/may be to flexible to reliably load. Even on my Prusa XL I do bypass the PTFE tube for TPU because it is just too much effort to push the TPU through the tube. I think the reason you cannot do only the interface layers with PETG with tree support is due to the fact that PETG and PLA don't stick together. I found that I can almost not print a floating PLA section on top of the PETG support. Overhangs (even horizontal ones) do work but as soon as I have a floating PLA piece on top of PETG support, the PLA just slides off. Same goes for PETG on top of PLA so I think that is the reason for not supporting the interface layer only option on tree supports. Maybe the special soluble support materials do not have this problem and maybe there are special options in the slicer to enable this. I don't have a Bambu printer (but am quite happy with the Prusa XL)
@@OnceinaSixSide and I am so tempted to go for the Bambu experience. While multiple print heads seems to be the ultimate solution for some multi material prints, multiple print heads do come with their own problems
I do want to comment on the slicer, it has been built on top of the prusaslicer one, so a lot of standard filaments and printers arent a result of bambulabs specifically.
Going to add to the cacophony of people saying they picked one up and it has been straight plug and play. I had an old Ender 3 that I tinkered with for months getting only a handful of successful prints with before i called it a loss. The A1 has been such a joy. Definitely purchased in part from this review.
You need to edit start gcode if you dont like the slow start print time. I removed a lot of my start gcode to save time and to not wipe out/replace the calibrated data saved to the machine.
I find it funny that one of your complaints about the AMS was that it takes forever to change colors while this version is like 10x faster than the standard AMS. Most people who have experience with the other Bambu AMS comment about how amazingly fast this version is, lol.
