Great job! I’ve done an entire suspension refresh on my 92 wagon I still found I had a little click over rough roads. This ended up being the torque on the inside upper rear strut bolt. After torquing both sides, I no longer had a click.
Love to see a focus on the cross members support both engine and particularly changing the cross member and rubber trans support. Jacking for a driveway DYI guy, dealing with rusted bolts. '92 240. Staying alive. Thx, D Day, Maine
Hi D Day! In GA we don't get the opportunity to deal with rusted 240's. I do have a Connecticut car that I've used for parts. It came apart easily enough though. Unfortunately it's almost completely stripped so it would be useless as an example. Thanks for watching!
im in michigan, and drive a kinda rusty 240, i usually heat any suspicious looking fasteners with a small torch and let them soak in Kroil penetrating oil for an hour, or a day, or a week. depending on how rusty and dangerous they look. sometimes ill heat them, soak them, let them cool, and repeat that process several times. i like to use a battery powered 1/4" drive impact gun, and if it doesn't loosen right away, ill switch it to "tighten", and bounce if off the clutch a few times and go back to "loosen". also use a small wire brush to clean any exposed threads and where the fasteners meet, before you start oiling them. it can be slow and tedious, but its better than broken/seized hardware.
I would have pegged the sound to be bad trailing arm bushings. Six minutes! You know a shop would have charged $150 per side, not including the parts. You’ve inspired us to GET OUTSIDE AND GET IT DONE! For anyone reading this and wanting to do the challenge, reposition the jack so you can fiddle with the lower bolt with one hand, and raise the axle with the other hand. Then send me half the winning prize for the tip!!
Thank you for this video, I might try the challenge too, even though I’ve never posted anything yet. It’s good to know that such a simple repair makes such an improvement.
Never posted a video you say?! Then your first shall be your best one yet! No matter how it turns out. Just make sure you turn it to landscape mode and start with the car on jack stands for safety!
Ha! That was fun to watch :D. I don't even try to beat your time 🤣. I should have put some longer struts since I have lifted the rear about 2inches, but I'm just waiting for the old ones to explode 🤣
If you use the scissor jack that you yanked out of your trunk to adjust the height of the rear axle, it saves a lot of time on the upsy downsy walk-aroundsy play with the floor jack. The scissor jack is more finely adjustable and you can keep the handle on the ground right next to you
Hey Dean, already replaced my shocks with some Gaz GT's, but still have a dang annoying rattle, plus replaced all the bushings. It drives me insane. Thanks for the great content buddy 🤘
Another viewer mentioned their hardware was undersized for one of the strut holes. Veryify thats not a thing. Also have a look at all bushings in the rear of the car
@@DeanofMachines I've replaced all the bushings. Like I said down below, what I haven't done..... is completely empty my boot (trunk)! I would be infuriated and happy all at the same time 😂
in the 90s I did similar to yours but with military vehicles before becoming physically disabled you work really hard I also wanted to ask you how much a 240 2 door costs for export to Italy you need several documents
I may try your shock challenge. I bought and mounted Bilsteins, and I think the diameter of the lower mount hole is larger than the trailing arm's mounting bolt diameter, so I get a rattle when driving. I have a set of KYBs in the garage, and I want to test the shock's mount hole diameter between the two brands.
Bruh that jack stand positioning was a bit sketch, you had it resting on the edge of the chassis jack point. KYB are a good choice, I've gone through a lot of different 240 shocks and KYBs have the best feel. The worst surprisingly have been Sachs and Bilstein (touring - the HDs are great)
